Boring and threading in the handlebars?

You'll still need to reach way over, behind and below the Garmin/cradle to fumble the key in... a hustle...

Not a problem at all. That's not why I want it mounted where I want it.

I'd go either lower or on top of the dash

Good for you! But I can't see what that have to du with me at all.

(Satnavs have an automatic night mode,

No *****, Sherlock.

changing the screen appearance into dark/inverse, pretty inconspicuous at nighttime...)

Not to me.

No. Go be a good little "I know better than you" American somewhere else.
 
There are "MANY" ways to mount them.

:think1:

This is how I solved mounting my GPS

20240210_GPSMount-2.jpg

20240210_GPSMount-1.jpg

Two things about my setup;
1) I have a battery box inside my tankbag to stiffen the sides. (not shown here)
2) I have a flat piece of metal in the lid of the tankbag that the GPS mount attaches to. (not shown here)

And no, the GPS does not interfere with my sight to the speedometer!
 
Hi. This is my first post, and I hope my English is understandable.

I am considering putting a 10mm rod between the right and left handlebar to mount (for example) a GPS. This is my first ST1300 and I have always had my gear mounted in a similar place on my other bikes.

So. What can happen if I drill and thread 2x 6mm holes in these places (marked with red circles in the attached photo) on both the right and left side?

Other suggestions on how I can fasten a 10mm rod between the right and left sides are very welcome.
Looking at your picture, maybe a large washer/plate between the lever reservoirs and the stop (where your red circles are) with the rod attached to the washer instead of bar. Looks tricky to attach to the bar. Just another random thought.
 
How about using these to replace the master cylinder clamps on the front brake and clutch?

You could attach your 10, er... 12mm rod to these with a robust fastener comparable to the add-on crossbar you used on your precious bike.

Not knowing your fabrication skills, but I imagine mating your 12mm bar to those bolts/screws you added by drilling into the bar casting would be comparable to attaching it to these. But without the strength compromising holes you made in the casting.

1000014489.jpg
 
Not knowing your fabrication skills, but I imagine mating your 12mm bar to those bolts/screws you added by drilling into the bar casting would be comparable to attaching it to these. But without the strength compromising holes you made in the casting.
Flatten the end of the rod slightly and drill a hole. Bend at the point you want the bar to cross. Bend on the other end to mirror, then cut, flatten and drill.

Maybe start with a still wire to find the length and where the bends go. Then flattening the ends of the rod so that the flats are parallel before bending.

Neal
 
Yeah, that's two low- volume posters in the past week.
Post count is not the be- all / end- all, and certainly not a requirement to ask questions, but it's thankfully rare to see this level of combativeness here in these parts.
 
Yeah, that's two low- volume posters in the past week.
Post count is not the be- all / end- all, and certainly not a requirement to ask questions, but it's thankfully rare to see this level of combativeness here in these parts.
iu
 
Givi makes a tank back that attaches to a ring, which attaches to the gas cap ring etc.
You can order just the ring, and use a small Pelican waterproof/lockable box to mount the ring to, then have it sitting on top of the tank, out of bothersome view until you need to glance down etc.
I mounted mine to the top of the box, then when I needed to move it, I just put it inside the box.


picture1nl9.png


267415097_sE23w-XL.jpg


Find the cause of failure, instead of throwing solutions at a problem.
 
I would never drill holes in that location.
It would be introducing a weak spot in a critical point of force transmission. One small undetected crack propagates and you have a potentially catastrophic failure of a critical component.
 
Read incrementally, I would not drill into these handle bars at all, mainly because this is a safety item. The leverage of this style of bar is fairly hig. Under heavy braking they flex when you lean on them. Having one fail under that kind of load would be devastating, and yes I have heard of this happening although the facts are a friend of a friend which means I just heard but have not seen. Which kind of means may or maybe not.
This would be my engineering thought too . I suspect wall thickness would be too thin as well ? NOT a good idea me thinks.
 
Back
Top Bottom