Getting to Know the Bike

[draser]

Be damned if I would send it to them.

Worst case scenario I can use a shop in the states but, where's the fun in that... I'll just order a line with proper end fittings and do it m'self.

You're a while away from this yet - but I'll post it while I remember. You may find it useful. There is s useful post for taking a fairing off and identifying the nuts and bolts so that you can put them all back together again. I provide a link to that.

Thank you, my fairings - while in good condition thank God - came with missing fasteners and/or wrong fasteners so your help will be appreciated!! When I get there I'll have to order what's missing. I did find a few fasteners within the bike as I was taking it apart but I feel I'm still short a bunch.

You can re-fill it just like the OEM Honda shock, which Honda, Penske, Progressive, and everyone else will tell you ONLY they can do it

My thoughts exactly...

Filling the fluid line for the rear shock is relatively easy. Theres a thread on here somewhere. I bought a brand new Honda replacement and it came with (about) 10 clicks of free space before it started to move the preload - so my very first job was to refill that. It is impossible for me to get it so that there is no air at all in there, but if you fill the lines up, move the piston a few times and bolt the banjo bolt with fluid flowing out as you tighten - well I got it to just two clicks. Standard OEM is 7 clicks.

Yeah, it reminds me when I rebuilt the rear shocks with fluid reservoirs on my Magna, main problem (obviously) was getting as much air out as possible while filling with fluid.

 

[draser]

Thank you all for your replies, getting there slowly but surely. It seems that my rear wheel "flange bearings" are missing a few balls here and there so the order went out, also added the needle bearing for the shock lower attachment point as there was some play in the bearing/bushing assembly. Working on pressing out the needle bearing.

 

[jfheath]

There are a couple of significant 'O' rings that fit in the disassembled wheel. Make sure that these are in place/replaced.

Parts 23 and 22 on this diagram. They will be numbered differently on other fiches.

 

[draser]

So today, having cleaned the clutch slave from all the crystalized fluid/moisture stuff, below - some corrosion on the outside of SC body but inside bore in shiny good condition, piston just have discoloration:



And the engine side of it, after several cleaning "sessions":



The clutch line form MC to the SC was previously flushed until clear liquid came out. Torqued SC by feel due to location and inaccessibility. Next the brake fluid went in, the vac pump went to the service port of SC and fun begun... Actually it went pretty fast, got all air out and lever feels harder than before, reminds me of the Magna after installing a Vesrah heavy duty clutch springs, definitely harder than when I bought it.

Noticed a lot of squealing while pulling the lever so I had to take it apart. Found an acorn (??) nut on the pivot screw:



and, just for kicks, looking at the brake lever... guess what... no nut (typical by now..):



Long story short, I ended up with 2 locking nuts (from my stock) for the levers. Looking at the brass piece that has the boss for the MC pushrod, there was ribbing/rough surface on the one side:



Which, after removing with some 1000 grit sandpaper, greasing and reinstalling, took care of the lever squealing.

And now I have a working clutch. Moving on to the brakes next, let the fun begin..

 

[draser]

Checking on the slave for leaks... none found:



On to the rear wheel - drive flange bearings... supposed to be 2 but I'm at 1.5:



The seal on the one side looks like this now:



And still waiting on parts to arrive....

 

[draser]

Parts came in today from Carolina Cycle, so I started assembling the swingarm - installed the new needle bearing for the shock and respective dust seals. Also, installed the swingarm pivot bearings packed with fresh grease and cleaned the rubber boot for the output shaft. Swingarm ready to go in first thing tomorrow.

Called Technafit - a company I used in the past to order custom made brake and clutch lines. They have a manufacturing site in Indiana, use good quality materials and have decent prices. They're suppliers for several auto manufacturers (Subaru, Volvo, etc.), and the lines I have on my bikes work beautifully. Unfortunately, they use distributors now and don't take online orders like before.

They recommended this supplier in Florida (BAT Industries), which I called and they took my order for the monoshock fluid line. Of course I could've used Apex, Galfer and such, pay a lot more and not sure where the part came from (China, US...).

While I had the swingarm off, I thought I'd clean and lube the Heim joints for the shifter linkage, I should have ordered the dust boots but the thought came late - Moly grease for the Heims and cleaned and siliconed the boots. There seem to be no looseness/play in there. Linkage/shifter went back in.

 

[Sidekick]

Not supposed to use Rotella T4 as I recall. I have used Rotella T6, Honda GN4, Mobil 1-4T. Also, the wires running under the seat, one is on top and seems to have some bare wire exposed. If you change out the oil and filter (remember to strap clutch handle in depressed position), your clutch should return to life. Other members will voice opinions soon.

"clutch handle in depressed position", why if I may ask?

 

[Andrew Shadow]

"clutch handle in depressed position", why if I may ask?

To allow the oil that is trapped between the clutch plates to drain out during the oil change.

 

[draser]

And the swingarm went in...



All I need to finish the rear is the preload adjuster line for the shock... meantime I'll finish the wheel (bearing changes) and overhaul the rear caliper (cleaning, boots, etc.). Need to order tires as well, haven't decided what brand yet... I found a set of Pirelli Angel's over in England, cheaper than here (if you can find the set here..) The vendor is "The Visor Shop", which has good reviews over there, anyone from across the pond has used these guys?

Now that I'm nearing completion of the rear end overhaul, the main conclusion was that whoever serviced the wheel used a ton of moly grease, since there was grease everywhere... The instruction for moly grease usage is to use sparsely. Also, wheel o-rings need replaced to keep the grease in there.