How to change Clutch and Brake lever

[mrazvi]

Hello, Is there a guide to switching out the Clutch and Brake lever on a 2005 ST 1300? Please point me in the right direction.

The reason is to get a short lever and reduce reach.

Attached are pictures of what I am going to replace the stock levers with.

Thanks!

 

[jfheath]

Interesting looking levers.

Beware when buying. From 2008 the ST1300 brake lever adopted a brand new design. The lever from 2008 models onwards will not fit your 2005 model (and vice versa).

The clutch lever is the same throughout.

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

If they fit, this is the procedure:

Leave the assembly on the bike, I have a spare clutch lever I took apart.

One slotted shoulder pivot bolt


One pivot nut


Remove pivot nut


Unscrew pivot bolt


Slide lever away from Master cylinder


Remove push rod and joint piece (service manual calls it this?) check for wear


Clean thoroughly, check for wear, grease, service manual specifies silicone grease.



Obviously you'll use your new levers here when reinstalling push rod and joint piece.
Slide it back in, install pivot bolt and nut and wipe clean.


Brake side is the same pivot nut and bolt, grease brake lever and push rod tip contact points. Adjust for function and comfort, ride. Good luck.

 

[mrazvi]

Perfect!! Appreciate it much.

 

[mrazvi]

Interesting looking levers.

Beware when buying. From 2008 the ST1300 brake lever adopted a brand new design. The lever from 2008 models onwards will not fit your 2005 model (and vice versa).

The clutch lever is the same throughout.

These were sold as replacement for 2003-2007 model. I'll let you know if they work as expected.

 

[jfheath]

When refitting - the rubber boot is supposed to fit inside into that groove formed by the double ridge. I don't know if it is possible to do that without remove the boot first - but then you have the problem of seating the boot properly. A gentle push in on both sides simultaneously with something long thin and very blunt should do the trick.

The top of the boot is folded in on itself so the lips of the top can fit into the groove.

The brim is often sprung - either by the nature of the thick rubber, or by having a sprung wire inside. The bore into which it fits usually tapers so that the brim presses firmly onto the side to form the waterproof seal. This cannot be done with the lever in place. You might be able to find a hard tube that fits over the top so that you can press the brim into place. For the SMC boot I can use a socket from my driver set. I don't know about the clutch boot - although I have fitted one, and it wasn't a big issue.

But if it isn't pushed home, water can get in and that will present problems later on.

 

[mrazvi]

Can I user this grease?

 

[jfheath]

Can I user this grease?

I haven't got a clue about that grease. But my feeling is 'No'.

I know that usually mineral oil based products tend to interfere with the 'rubber' seals like our rubber boots and caliper brake piston seals. It casues them to swell. I have never heard of this particular product, but there are various data sheets published for all products like this. Usually a safety data sheet and a materials data sheet.
I found both.

The material data sheet is here XHRi.MSDS (aspshop.eu) - Page 2 of 8, section 3.

In there is suggests that it is 80% a Petroleum Distallates. What that means and whether it applies I really don't have a clue.
But I am thinking that Petroleum is a mineral oil derived substance and these cause the boots to slowly disintegrate and swell.

I may be completely wrong, but I wouldn't use it, when I know that products like silicone grease and red rubber grease - specifically manufactured for compatabilty with brake system parts - is perfect for the job. I bought a big tin of it many years ago. Its goes down very slowly.

 

[mrazvi]

Thanks @jfheath , Appreciate your responses much, I was being lazy and trying to use something that is available at home. Will find a silicone grease..is there a recommendation?

 

[dduelin]

Sil Glyde is a solid choice for this application.

 

[ST1100Y]

+ 1 on the silicone grease...
currently using a jug for scuba gear, but the small tubes found at hardware stores, specified for faucet and espresso machine O-rings serve just as well...

 

[mrazvi]

Found this and hopefully will do the trick! Thanks

 

[ST1100Y]

Found this and hopefully will do the trick! Thanks

Looking good, it's basic duty is to keep water out the top of brake and clutch master cylinders/away from the plungers... the rubber boot keeps it in place...

 

[mrazvi]

Install completed , Thanks to all of you wonderful people.

 

[mrazvi]

When refitting - the rubber boot is supposed to fit inside into that groove formed by the double ridge. I don't know if it is possible to do that without remove the boot first - but then you have the problem of seating the boot properly. A gentle push in on both sides simultaneously with something long thin and very blunt should do the trick.

The top of the boot is folded in on itself so the lips of the top can fit into the groove.

The brim is often sprung - either by the nature of the thick rubber, or by having a sprung wire inside. The bore into which it fits usually tapers so that the brim presses firmly onto the side to form the waterproof seal. This cannot be done with the lever in place. You might be able to find a hard tube that fits over the top so that you can press the brim into place. For the SMC boot I can use a socket from my driver set. I don't know about the clutch boot - although I have fitted one, and it wasn't a big issue.

But if it isn't pushed home, water can get in and that will present problems later on.

I was able to find the rubber boot and fit it first before the lever install. Thanks, great tip!!