Looks like a ST1100 in my future!

IIRC, the dimpled ones are from the Blackbird.
Agreed, but the UPgrade and dynamic acceleration is worth it. I figure if you are getting them why not get the Fancy ones.
By the way, did you know the ABSII sports the same Brake system as the CBR1100XX Blackbird: same Calipers. Except I've only seen non ABS CBRs
 
Guaranteed to add 4 mph to your top speed! You know about dimples on golf balls, right? :thumb:

John ( can’t find my old poST/thread on this with the other [CBR?] screws part numbers)
It was only 17 years ago when you posted it John.
You sure put a lot of effort and exuberance in to the post presenting those screw part numbers at the time.
 
Agreed, but the UPgrade and dynamic acceleration is worth it. I figure if you are getting them why not get the Fancy ones.
By the way, did you know the ABSII sports the same Brake system as the CBR1100XX Blackbird: same Calipers. Except I've only seen non ABS CBRs
I didn't know that - same calipers front and rear?
I can say one thing for sure - the stopping power of the ABSII models is a lot better than the standards - and I'm not talking about the 'ABS' part. ;)
 
I didn't know that - same calipers front and rear?
I can say one thing for sure - the stopping power of the ABSII models is a lot better than the standards - and I'm not talking about the 'ABS' part. ;)
Not sure, I think the rear is different,
This video gives a good look.
 
It's good that it is a 96 - that means it already has the 40 amp alternator in it.
In reality, the bodywork is probably worth more than the bike if it is in good shape and not faded. ;)

Yeah, I was excited when I saw that it was a 1996. :run1:

Yeah, as for parting it out, that's not going to happen. If I can't get it running, I'll (we'll) sell it whole, I don't need a bunch of ST1100 parts floating around, getting mixed in with a bunch of ST1300 parts, I already have. :rofl1:
 
Yeah, I was excited when I saw that it was a 1996. :run1:

Yeah, as for parting it out, that's not going to happen. If I can't get it running, I'll (we'll) sell it whole, I don't need a bunch of ST1100 parts floating around, getting mixed in with a bunch of ST1300 parts, I already have. :rofl1:
That's the best approach IMO, get it in great shape for the next owner that will appreciate it and ride it.
 
It was only 17 years ago when you posted it John.
You sure put a lot of effort and exuberance in to the post presenting those screw part numbers at the time.
Thanks, Andrew! Yeah, a had a little fun writing that poST (find my double-tip over in the Great White North post, which I also escapes me); I suspect few will catch the “Old Professor“ “Bunkies” cultural reference. :) “Never give up………… that ship!!!
 
That's the best approach IMO, get it in great shape for the next owner that will appreciate it and ride it.

Yeah, I'll have to take a look at it to determine what it'll take to get it operational. But I'll probably leave anything expensive for the new buyer... Like tires and such! ;)

Although, if someone had the tires, I could mount them for them! :)
 
Yeah, I'll have to take a look at it to determine what it'll take to get it operational. But I'll probably leave anything expensive for the new buyer... Like tires and such! ;)

Although, if someone had the tires, I could mount them for them! :)
KISS principle is the best way to go. (Keep it simple stupid)
My observation is the 96-98 model years were prone to loose main loom ground connections. Giving false overheating indicators and charging issues.
This is easy to check as the main ground connects either to a bolt for the folding handle or a bolt holding the front of the left pannier rail. There’s already been advice with regards to fresh fuel, draining the carbs, and possible new plugs and a strong charged battery. For the most part that should get it running without having to go to the hassle of removing plastic, having said that, it wouldn’t hurt to check the air filter….so remove the side panels and shelter.
Once it’s running the enthusiasm to do more invasive maintenance might crop up, that’s where a couple of tanks of fuel with fuel injector cleaner comes in. If that does the trick as from my personal experience does….then change all the fluids, look at the brake pads…Ride it like there’s no tomorrow…..
One can overthink….be a dumb blonde like me. ;)
Have fun!
 
Now that I have some time -

Removing ST1100 lower cowling -

5mm T handle and a very small standard screwdriver.
5 bolts on the right size - two at the back (one is sort of 'under'), two on the side, one just under the radiator.
The screwdriver is to gently pry the push pin right up above the bolt under the radiator.
4 bolts on the left side - one at the back, two on the side, one just under the radiator,
And a push pin right above the bolt.
Opening the push pins allows the inner cowling to flex enough to slide the cowling tabs from under it.
A little wiggling and it should drop right off.
 
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