2014 Honda CTX1300 vs 1999 Honda Valkyrie

Is that the "dampening force adjustment" that's on the side of the bike, just under the seat? You put a screw driver in and turn to the left for "softer"?
 
kiltman said:
You have a 95 ST1100, does it have the alternator upgrade to 40A? you mention not too mechanically inclined...I would go for the CTX or step up to the ST1300. With the current trend in prices for used bikes you can find an excellent ST1300 for a good price.
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No idea on the alternator - how would I check to find out?
 
sirepair said:
Several things to check for the wobble: suspension settings, wheel bearings, steering stem bearings, tire pressures/condition.

New rear shock made a HUGE difference on my ST. Their engines are about as close to bulletproof as any made.

And you have all of us ST-OWNERS to help you out!
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How do you know if you need a new rear shock? Also, is that something I could do? I just watched a video on YouTube of a guy removing his swing arm and I can tell ya, that ain't me...too many screws to lose!
 
Timmy G said:
No idea on the alternator - how would I check to find out?
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Remove the left pannier, remove the seat, remove the left side panel. Beside the battery on the aluminum part of the frame if there is a black rectangle box with a white connector with 6 wires coming out of it, that's the voltage regulator for the 28 amp unit. If it isn't there you more than likely had the upgrade. The other way to check is the alternator itself. use a flashlight and shine it on the left side of the bike by the swingarm The alternator is located at the back of the engine. if there are no venting on the alternator it's the 28 amp unit.
The shock isn't all that difficult to change. Put the bike on the centre stand. put a block under the rear wheel. remove the top bolt attached to the frame mindful of the bushing and spacers. Then remove the bottom bolt. an extra long 14mm c wrench or box wrench will be helpful to remove that bolt. Again mindful of the bushing and spacer. Install in reverse order, use a pry bar under the rear wheel so you can alin the eye of the shock into the frame bracket.
 
Timmy G said:
How do you know if you need a new rear shock? Also, is that something I could do? I just watched a video on YouTube of a guy removing his swing arm and I can tell ya, that ain't me...too many screws to lose!
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+1 Kiltman on the rear shock. But you WILL need a torque wrench and moly grease/paste.
Upt'North.
 
Timmy G said:
Is that the "dampening force adjustment" that's on the side of the bike, just under the seat? You put a screw driver in and turn to the left for "softer"?
Click to expand...

Don't know about the Valk, but the CTX does not have that adjustment. Both STs do have that. The CTX is as simple as gripping the barrel of the shock and turning it to another number.
In this photo I am using the spanner tool to adjust the shocks without the need to remove saddlebags or anything else. IMG_20140715_211437244.jpg
 
kiltman said:
Remove the left pannier, remove the seat, remove the left side panel. Beside the battery on the aluminum part of the frame if there is a black rectangle box with a white connector with 6 wires coming out of it, that's the voltage regulator for the 28 amp unit. If it isn't there you more than likely had the upgrade. The other way to check is the alternator itself. use a flashlight and shine it on the left side of the bike by the swingarm The alternator is located at the back of the engine. if there are no venting on the alternator it's the 28 amp unit.
The shock isn't all that difficult to change. Put the bike on the centre stand. put a block under the rear wheel. remove the top bolt attached to the frame mindful of the bushing and spacers. Then remove the bottom bolt. an extra long 14mm c wrench or box wrench will be helpful to remove that bolt. Again mindful of the bushing and spacer. Install in reverse order, use a pry bar under the rear wheel so you can alin the eye of the shock into the frame bracket.
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(gulp)
 
Timmy G said:
No idea on the alternator - how would I check to find out?
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The 28a unit looks like a solid bell-shaped dome, and the 40a has slots all over like a car alternator.

From: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/28a-repair-40a-purchase-from-where.145534/

1581019890128.jpeg
 
In your avatar you have a 96 ST1100 however in your signature you list a 95. If you have a 96 you will have the 40 amp alternator.
you went gulp when I gave it instructions to take the left panel off. Taking off the pannier and the seat is a mater of using a key to unlock them. Removing the left panel requires either a Phillips screwdriver or Allen key. Take a picture just left of your battery and post it and we will tell you what alternator you have.
 
I have a Valk standard, and I find its a fantastic sit up cruiser type ride. Strangely I bought to go for long trips, but I ended up near always using my VFR for the longer sporty touring stuff.
 
Another point about the older Valkyrie. It has a modified 1500 Goldwing motor with hotter cams and 6 carbs. One of the things Honda modified out of the Valkyrie is the reverse gear. The only Valkyries that have reverse are the Japanese versions or one that has had the reverse option put back. Is that something you're looking for? The Interstate came from the factory with a fairing, saddle bags, trunk and a slightly larger gas tank (6.8 gal.) vs. 5.8 for the other 2 models. The mpg is in the low 30's depending on how you ride it. The Valkyrie Interstate weighs in at about 850#.
 
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