signal circuit wiring question

[SporTnTR]

I know that green is grd, orange is left and light blue is right. Does anyone know the wire color that is energized when either the left OR the right signal is on. I have the left middle cowl off so the connectors by the left side coil are easily accessible to me now.

I thought I would be able to figure it out by seeing all the wires going to the flasher, but what is required to access the flasher relay on the left side. It is not very obvious. I didn't want to start removing relays one at a time and disturbing the wiring till I get to the back where it is, without first knowing if there was a better way. There is one 10mm bolt at front of relay tray. Is that all there is, and then the whole tray comes out?

[samurai741]

The orange/white stripe and blue/white stripe have power when the turn signals are activated.

[SporTnTR]

I've found those, thanks, but that isn't my problem, I need a live 12 v one that is live only when left OR right signal is on. I have found a pink/white and a red/green (I think) that works, but it is a little weird. The orange/white and lightblue/white is live when each side signal is activated, but only on each side at a time. The pink/white is live always, but creates a really fast blink cycle, the same speed as if you were to remove a bulb on that side and it's constant if ign is on even if signals are in off position. i need a live wire that gives me the usual blink rate whether left OR right signal is used, but goes off when you sw signals off.

Sure would appreciate any other input on this if anyone has any.
Thanks :03biker:

[bcst1300]

You are looking for the wire that feeds the turn signals or 4 way flasher switch. sorry diagram is not handy

[Rob Hephner]

What are you trying to do?

[SporTnTR]

I am trying to wire an extra signal beeperr that needs to work on both signals. it would likely work when the 4 ways were on by default. It is a 2 pole beeper.
I have located both wires at the flasher, a grey I think and a red/green I think. Both of those, create the fast beep. Hey , I wonder if the flasher must be too light to fire anything extra. But then it flashes fast when you "remove" a draw (bulb), so still doesn't make sense.

BTW, the pink/white up by the horn creates this fast beep when both signals are OFF.
The orange/white and lightblue/white respectively make the unit beep in sync with OEM signals. But only one OR the other. I wonder if it has to be wired to BOTH left and right, but then would it not require a diode to keep power from coming back thru unit and try to fire the opposing signal when the one or the other is one?

[Rob Hephner]

You need to wire it to both of the flashers and then use two diodes to keep the volage from one bulb firing from firing into the other bulb.

Basically allow the voltage to come to the buzzer but not flow back out to the bulb. Make a Y with two diodes, the stem side goes to the buzzer and the Y side goes to each lights positive wire. The diodes should be orientated to flow toward the stem.

Does that help?

[SporTnTR]

That's it Rob! Thanks.

The draw of the 12 volt beeper is .26 amp (actually, I measured it while the battery was on a 2 amp trickle charge and was at 13.9 volt, still charging, just before checking for current draw on the beeper). Anyway, .26 amps seems low to me for draw on this beeper, but maybe. If it really is .26 amps, then what value diode do you recommend me using on each side?
The stripe on diode would face the stem of the Y (beeper), right?
If I go ahead and do this, can you think of any anomalies that might crop up because of this?
Maybe fuse the beeper at 2 to 5 amps, what do ya think?

[Rob Hephner]

Yes, the line goes toward the stem, the V or arrow points the way you want current to flow.

I would use a 5 amp diode, remember the value if for the current that the bulbs will draw. 5 amps should be fine for the fuse.

The only thing that might happen is that the flasher will not blink fast when a bulb goes out. The easy way to check it to unplug the connection or bulb and see what happens. Then you will know.

[BC Rider]

You need to wire it to both of the flashers and then use two diodes to keep the volage from one bulb firing from firing into the other bulb.




for a diagram of the diode method look here http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/buzzer.html

[Rob Hephner]

I don't know what the heck that diagram in the middle is trying to acomplish (it would work, just kinda odd) but the picture is what you should look at.

[SporTnTR]

Thanks guys, How do you tell what amp a diode is? I have a few that I have desoldered from an old car stereo. But I think it might have been my bros old one out of a BMW car maybe, if I remember it had high power, so may have had the need for the use of hi - cap diodes.

I have about 4 dif sizes, but I have 2 that are purple (on band end) and black body. They look a lot beefier than the traditional smaller glass type. They look almost identical to the ones on the main picture that BC link lead to where it is showing how to heatshrink. Can't see the writing on them, but mine say 6 E . Actually they have a big capital letter E, then 6, then beside the 6 is a smaller capital E. The other 3 sizes of smaller ones all the glass look type have no writing as they are too small. Every single one will activate the buzzer. But I have to thank Rob for reminding me that the diodes are to control the amp draw that a fr and rear light circuit does, so I mighta smoked the little ones had I tried them.

So do you think these 6E are of a high enough current capacity? If they blow do they weld as a closed circuit both ways? trying to know what my options would be if I had a failure enroute somewhere and be wanting to isolate them on the side of the road somewhere. Plus I wonder if a Hyperlite module will create any feedback that site talks about?

[BC Rider]

As far as I know you cannot read a diode the same way that you can a resistor. If you can determine the manufacturer you could potentially find a datasheet for it that would include the information you want. Likely the best bet is to buy a diode so you get the datasheet with it - I have no idea what the 6E means. Here is a link to some of the terms you will see on the datasheet.

http://www.vias.org/feee/diode_04.html

I believe most diodes fail open usually - but zeners fail shorted. I've no first hand experience with this though.

[Rob Hephner]

Go to Radio Shack and buy some, that's the best thing to do.

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/2.html

[dond]

I put one remote TS pilot light on my bike..It works with either TS or the 4ways. I removed the flasher unit from it's holder, wires STill connected. I then bared each wire and soldered one lead to each wire and taped well. Put the TS flasher back in it's holder, put on the sidecover and GO RIDE.
Your TS buzzer may be OK, When I run my Bushtec the TS's work fine with the STock unit.

Let us know how it works out.

[SporTnTR]

Not very close to a Radio Shack or any other type store, but will drive if i have to. I would like to utilize what i have here if possible, even if i double them up. I found 2 more so i could use 4 of these purple/black. i know in the pic it shows blue, but they are purple.
Thanks for the info on testing their value, ironically in all of that info, they never refer to it's amp capability.
These look like that one on that site, that he too has doubled up.

Hopefully this pic uploaded ok.

[BC Rider]

Thanks for the info on testing their value, ironically in all of that info, they never refer to it's amp capability.



You should be looking at the:
Maximum (average) forward current = IF(AV)

That will be in amps.

Then probably apply a safety factor of 2x or so.