NewsMag
12-20-2004, 04:54 PM
In case you didn't know, the stock Honda headlamps are deliberately different in base configuration from automotive (H4) bulbs. Many moons ago I pioneered a method to adapt H4 standard auto bulbs to the ST1100, using a piece of wire (or small nail). This method has been obsoleted by the invention of bulb shims - available from various vendors.
After looking at the ST1300, I find that the headlamp assembly mounting is different from the ST1100. So I offer the following bulb-mounting tips:
1) It is unnecessary to cut off ANY of the tabs. The lateral tabs at 4:00 and 8:00 on the H4 can be bent backwards 90 degrees and will not interfere with anything.
2) The two tiny forward-facing tabs don't interfere with anything and can be left alone, whereas they had to be flattened or removed on an ST1100.
3) A pair of needle nosed pliers (or a Leatherman/Gerber tool) can be used to bend the two tiny forward-facing tabs outboard, making a handy device for securing the bulb-shims to the bulb (glass side). This technique would make it unnecessary to have high dexterity or use a piece of (flammable?) tape to get the bulbs mounted securely in the housing.
Farkle onward!
After looking at the ST1300, I find that the headlamp assembly mounting is different from the ST1100. So I offer the following bulb-mounting tips:
1) It is unnecessary to cut off ANY of the tabs. The lateral tabs at 4:00 and 8:00 on the H4 can be bent backwards 90 degrees and will not interfere with anything.
2) The two tiny forward-facing tabs don't interfere with anything and can be left alone, whereas they had to be flattened or removed on an ST1100.
3) A pair of needle nosed pliers (or a Leatherman/Gerber tool) can be used to bend the two tiny forward-facing tabs outboard, making a handy device for securing the bulb-shims to the bulb (glass side). This technique would make it unnecessary to have high dexterity or use a piece of (flammable?) tape to get the bulbs mounted securely in the housing.
Farkle onward!