View Full Version : HOME MADE HEATED SEAT
Now we have a seat there on the bike right? It seems like a fairly easy task to take off the cover, get some kind of 12V blanket, put the wires in and just hook a thermostadt up to it. Paying $700 for a heated seat and then having to find a place for my old one seems like a waste. Any ideas?
jaster
06-29-2007, 05:44 PM
Now we have a seat there on the bike right? It seems like a fairly easy task to take off the cover, get some kind of 12V blanket, put the wires in and just hook a thermostadt up to it. Paying $700 for a heated seat and then having to find a place for my old one seems like a waste. Any ideas?
Yes, one idea. Instead of a heating blanket you should look for a 12V heating pad. I found a couple doing a Google search but don't know how durable they would be. I'd start with using one under a sheepskin or something similar before I tore into my seat. The following info would be a good start of what to look for:
259-106
PB18
RV Pet warming Pad12V small w/cover
12"x18"
39.95
http://www.myles-rec.com/Recreation/Electo-Warmth/ewindex.htm
I have not tried this and do not know it it'll work. The item is not designed for motorcycle use so it may short circuit at the first hint of rain. :eek:
Jason
Spencer
06-29-2007, 05:59 PM
How about a self adhesive 1/4" foam mounted waterproof element made to fit the seat shape, with a three position lighted switch, digital controller using pulse width modulation instead of a bi-metal thermostat to keep the heat constant in all conditions, GM weatherproof connectors, three piece harness for easy maintenance and seat removal, plus everything to install down to the waterproof fuse holder and fuse? And all federally approved for use on a MC.
That only pulls 2a on HIGH
What would that be worth?
How about if it was offered in permanent or temporary installation configurations?
Someone just might be working on that right now :D
Spencer
Can be done but then I'll try anything to save a buck. I've no idea how many watts a typical heated seat is so I'd suggest starting with determining that. See attached for how I made an electric jacket. A 5 ft length of 26 ga. stainless steel wire will give you about 13 watts. Maybe with two loops, zig zag back and forth to avoid tension stress, and wire them with a double switch for high (both loops on) and low (one loop on) settings. That would be about 26 and 13 watts respectively. the stainless steel wire is a bit too stiff for use in a jacket but I thik it would be fine in a seat. Or you can use 26 ga copper wire but it takes a much longer loop. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290115951453&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RCRX_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=290069872832&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&usedrule1=CrossSell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget
This is about 0.1 ohms per ft so a 25 ft length will be about 70 watts (I used two 25 ft loops in my elec. jacket and have a modulating controler. A 50 ft length will be 34 watts but I suspect 50 ft of this wire will be a bit much to fit in a sq ft of area on the weat. good luck.
redst05
06-29-2007, 06:25 PM
How about a self adhesive 1/4" foam mounted waterproof element made to fit the seat shape, with a three position lighted switch, digital controller using pulse width modulation instead of a bi-metal thermostat to keep the heat constant in all conditions, GM weatherproof connectors, three piece harness for easy maintenance and seat removal, plus everything to install down to the waterproof fuse holder and fuse? And all federally approved for use on a MC.
That only pulls 2a on HIGH
What would that be worth?
How about if it was offered in permanent or temporary installation configurations?
Someone just might be working on that right now :D
Spencer
Spencer
If you are working on one. I would like to know when you are ready to take orders.
Please post your new option.
Spencer
06-29-2007, 06:31 PM
Guy
After 9 months, now just down to working out the installation.
It has to be right or it won't be at all.
Soon........I hope.....or I'm gonna................:eek:
Spencer
(edit: actually looking back, it's been 11 months since first started, you would think it would be easy.......uh...no)
George
06-29-2007, 06:38 PM
All, if Spence has spent 9 months getting it right, I would NOT try this at home.
Oh, yeah, I still need to send my stock seat. Maybe I'll wait a little longer and and get it heated, too. ;)
Spence, I need my seat _back_ by July 31. What's the latest I can send it?
I'd procrastinate more if I could find the time. :D
Spence,
I never thought it would be that complicated but if you can come up with a package and instructions, it will sell and I will be your first customer if George doesn't get there first. Let me know--I'm very interested
DLee
Macedo
06-30-2007, 12:36 PM
Guy
After 9 months, now just down to working out the installation.
It has to be right or it won't be at all.
Soon........I hope.....or I'm gonna................:eek:
Spencer
(edit: actually looking back, it's been 11 months since first started, you would think it would be easy.......uh...no)
Spencer,
I was thinking of shipping my seat for the seat mod but read this thread and I'm now wondering, should I wait until you complete your design? My real question is this; Can this heated mod be done after the original seat mod, or should they both be done together? I know others that have your seat mod are thinking the same thing.
alfred
06-30-2007, 02:48 PM
If you need a short term solution, and Spencer is still working out the finals on his baby, consider an ATV/snowmobile heated seat pad. I got one last winter, 10" x20", about $40 to get the buns toasted, and it sits under my sheepskin to spread out the warmth. Got the unit up here at Canadian Tire. Check up ATV accessories in your area to find a similar product.
Alfred
Spencer
06-30-2007, 03:51 PM
Spencer,
I was thinking of shipping my seat for the seat mod but read this thread and I'm now wondering, should I wait until you complete your design? My real question is this; Can this heated mod be done after the original seat mod, or should they both be done together? I know others that have your seat mod are thinking the same thing.
Sorry:th1:
Macedo,
Everything that I am soon to offer as upgrades, LD, heat, working on custom covers that will go over the stock cover ("Gripcovers") and install without a staple gun, but look permanent. Which will have the option of having the heat built in to the new cover (this looks like the way the heat is going to ultimately be offered, the size of the control wiring that was required to get certification is proving problematic with installation in the stock seat) along with other options, will all be able to be added to all existing work. Anything that requires the seat be sent back in will be done at a DEEP discount for those that have had work done in the past. For example, the LD Flex Gel mod is a $25 upgrade for new work, if you have a seat that was done previously but want to go with the new mod, I will honor the $25 price, even though I have to take it apart again.
There are a lot of good heat kits out there, the snowmobile/atv kit is a good one,.I had to take a lot of reliability, warranty, and liability issues into consideration and work with a large company to offer a kit that is federally approved so that if your bike was to spontaniously burst into flames, your insurance company can't blame it on the seat heater. The unit design was complete in the first 90 days, the rest has been red tape.:mad:
I stand on my reputation, I will do my best to make anything you need in the future available and reasonably priced, so send it on my freind.
Thanks, Spencer
Spencer, I'm the one that started the thread and it has been very interesting I'm new here and am interesting in finding things out about my new obsession and I very much appreciate your input. Many of the things you have brought up have been of concern but just not brought up yet. I'll keep your info for future use--THANKS
Texas
07-02-2007, 12:21 PM
Not too difficult. You will want to use Nickel Chromium wire. Use a fairly small gauge. Most heated clothing uses about 28 AWG. To calculate how much wire to use, you will need to know two things: 1) What wattage do you want your seat to be? 2) What is the wattage per linear foot of the NC wire? After you have these two figures, you will use the simple Ohms Law to calculate how long the NC wire will be.
Texas
It's already figured out for those that want to tackle the job themselves.
Saddle Heat (http://www.saddlemen.com/seatheaters.html)
Ray
Spencer
07-02-2007, 04:27 PM
It's already figured out for those that want to tackle the job themselves.
Saddle Heat (http://www.saddlemen.com/seatheaters.html)
Ray
Actually.........that is the same kit that my manufacturer made, and is selling to other vendors to recoup the cost of getting it certified.
Unfortunately a necessary evil :mad:
Curious to know what they are charging for it since they are charging 39.95 just for the installation kit ???
Spencer
Hmmmm...don't see the digital controller? maybe it's the bi-metal model?
Edit: Had to call :p: Saddleman Heater Large (small shown) $139.95.....damn good deal if it's the digital model
Mellow
07-02-2007, 05:54 PM
Spenc, what's your target price point and what's the difference between the digital and bi-metal model application?
You've done a lot to help out the members here and if it were me I'd get one from you instead of another source. I'm sure your price point will be competitive as it will be hard to offer that as a separate product. However, including this along with your other seat mods if definitely a good deal in my opinion.
Keep us informed on the progress and thanks for being such a good vendor on the site.
Spencer
07-02-2007, 06:43 PM
My apologies for the hijack
I will post an informational thread in the seat section for my kit once available.
The pricing will be about the same as the Saddleman but won't need an installation
kit because I will be pairing it with another product soon to be announced :cool:
Just so that anyone looking knows the difference.
Up until now all the heated seats have been using bi-metal thermostats or rheostats
that have a higher power draw and have a habit of providing inconsistent heat relative
to your position on the seat and outside temp.
The digital controller pulses the current to the element to regulate the heat
setting, varying the length and frequency of the pulse to control the different settings.
This way the heat is constant no matter where you are sitting on the seat, or
what the environment throws at you.
I know the quality of the saddleman kit so it is definitely a great choice if
you want to DIY. Either way you are supporting a manufacturer who has put
allot of time and effort into producing a quality product for riders.
They didn't have to take it on, but many of them are riders themselves.
Now back to your regularly scheduled programming :)
Spencer
DragonRider51
08-13-2007, 02:45 PM
That's cuz yur too cool for school Spencer! Way ta go!!!
How about a self adhesive 1/4" foam mounted waterproof element made to fit the seat shape, with a three position lighted switch, digital controller using pulse width modulation instead of a bi-metal thermostat to keep the heat constant in all conditions, GM weatherproof connectors, three piece harness for easy maintenance and seat removal, plus everything to install down to the waterproof fuse holder and fuse? And all federally approved for use on a MC.
That only pulls 2a on HIGH
What would that be worth?
How about if it was offered in permanent or temporary installation configurations?
Someone just might be working on that right now :D
Spencer
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