How to connect Powerlet/Gerbing controller?

[Clark]

I'm confused.... :confused:

I would like to be able to plug my Gerbings jacket liner into one of the dual Powerlet sockets (CA Sport Touring) and still control the temp using a Gerbings permanent heat controller.

Have any of you Gerbings folks done this?

For those of you plugging into one of the dual sockets, how are you controlling the temp of your liner/jacket/gloves/whatever?

Can anyone help out on this?

Thanks!

[Killtimer]

Clark

If I understand you correctly, you want to use a permanently mounted Heat Troller to control the output of one of the pair of receptacles. To do this you must wire the Heat Troller in first, directly to the battery, and then run the output to the receptacle of choice. As long as you don't use this receptacle for any other purpose, or make sure that the Heat Troller is set to max before you do, there should be no problems. Just make sure that you DO Not use this outlet for a battery tender/charger. HTH

Steve

[Clark]

Thank you both for the insight. Steve, it looks like you hit the nail on the head. I ordered, but have not yet rec'd, the dual Powerlet plugs. Once I get them I'll be able to see the type of connections everything has and hopefully make sense of it all.

Steve, have you done what you're describing? If so, how did you make the wiring connections? (will I have to cut and splice, or do the connectors fit?)

Thanks again!

Clark

[Bones]

I wired a permanent HeatTroller through a Powerlet, although I used the single port variety mounted on the right fairing just below the pocket. I like being able to see the plug when I'm riding.

The HeatTroller dial and LED are mounted on the little piece of black plastic that juts out to the left near the top of the right fairing pocket. Very convenient for the left hand to make adjustments in the toastiness factor.

To connect the HeatTroller to the PowerLet I soldered two wires so the PowerLet is down line of the HeatTroller. The wires for both the HeatTroller and the PowerLet ran nicely under the tank.

I'm no electrician, trust me. :D It was not a difficult job.

[Killtimer]

Clark

I've never been a fan of the perm. mount Heat Trollers so I use a portable. That gives me the option of using it on my other bike as well. The permanent unit will have 4 wires, 2 power in and 2 power out. The convention is to have the center contact of the BMW style receptacle pos. and the barrel neg. The leads from the 'troller should be marked. I'd be surprised if it didn't come with instructions on the install you want as that's the most common one.

As far as the actual connections the 'Troller should have the rings installed that go directly to the battery, including an in-line fuse. If the output side is just bare end leads, trim to length and use crimp type connectors to match the spades on he powerlets. This way everything can be dis-connected if needed. There's been a huge debate in the past crimp/solder wise and I believe that for a M/C application the crimp solution is best. This is the easy way....... if you want the powerlet to only be hot when the key is on you'll have to look at another option, maybe the quad harness up front or a relay system. My outlets are direct wired (always hot) but that's me.

Steve