View Full Version : Police Switch Installation
ligito
03-05-2005, 09:59 PM
Several of us have installed the ST1300P Police switchpod, on the right handlebar, to add many switches to our bikes, without having to stick more switches all over our bikes.
Perhaps we could include all of our pictures, concerns, solutions etc in the Knowledge base section.
crazykz
03-05-2005, 10:23 PM
That would be great if anyone could do that. I'm thinking about adding that.
Curt
John Anthony
03-05-2005, 11:08 PM
Several of us have installed the ST1300P Police switchpod, on the right handlebar, to add many switches to our bikes, without having to stick more switches all over our bikes.
Perhaps we could include all of our pictures, concerns, solutions etc in the Knowledge base section.
Where did you get yours and what did it cost?? Thanks! John
ligito
03-30-2005, 06:49 PM
I bought mine from the local Honda shop, but they're a few dollars cheaper online.
Killtimer
03-30-2005, 07:05 PM
I bought mine from the local Honda shop, but they're a few dollars cheaper online.
You wouldn't have a part # handy would you?
Steve
ligito
03-30-2005, 07:46 PM
This is one of the other sources.
Item Number Description Qty-Pack List Price Each Discontinued Our Price Each
35150-MAJ-T31 SWITCH, R. POLICE 001 $93.85 $68.65
http://www.servicehonda.com
CruisingDog
03-30-2005, 11:09 PM
Do you have any photos of the installed switch ? I also recall that there was a 3 position engine cut-off switch on the top of the assy. Does the 3rd position do anything different or is it just to give you another choice on how to cut the engine out ?
ligito
03-31-2005, 06:17 PM
I'm attempting to put pictures, instructions and a pin-out table in the knowledge base. When I uploaded everything I got and error and have sent a request to RC, for help.
The Kill switch has 2 off positions, like some older bikes had.
ligito
03-31-2005, 06:27 PM
It seems that my file size is too big, for the table.
I'll have to find another way to do it.
OK, I think I have it working alright, now.
It is not necessary to remove the grip, it will come off with the throttle tube.
Step 1 Remove the brake lever to give you room to work.
Step 2 Move the brake cylinder as far to the left, as possible.
Step 3 Remember to remove the inside bar damper prior to drilling--there are 2 tabs to bend in before removing it from the bar, they are in the little holes on top and bottom, near the outer end of the bars.
Step 4 Drill a new, or larger hole as needed, to fit the new switch to the bars Step 4 Replace the bar damper but don't push it all the way in.
Step 5 Install new switch - Be careful of cable routing and be sure to check while running, by turning from lock, to lock to check for binding.
Step 6 Attach the bar end weight and push it into the bar as much as needed, for clearance between the bar end weight and the grip.
If you forget to remove the inside damper, you can use a piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe, to make a spacer, about 1/2 long, to put in the bar end, then tighten the bolt and turn to pull the damper out of the bars enough to give you the length required to mate up with the damper, then remove the spacer and bolt it up. The reason for this is that the damper and bar end weight have to be integrated to do the dampening job and if you leave the PVC spacer in between, it isolates the 2 parts and negates, or reduces the dampening effect.
By doing it this way, I didn’t need to machine the bar end weight.
I have the BrakeAway Throttle Lock and only had to adjust the linkage that connects to the brake lever, just to make it longer.
I’m sure that others can add to this dialog.
I have 2 other documents to include with this.
ligito
03-31-2005, 07:01 PM
Until I'm able to post it, I can email the Word document in which I combined the table-instructions and pictures, if anyone would like them.
vBulletin® v3.7.3, Copyright ©2000-2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.