Valve Clearance report

[jeff4912]

Just did my valve clearance check and brake/clutch fluid change etc..

All my clearances were spot on except Cylinder #1 intake which was at .005 instead of .006

I was happy until I pinched the left side gasket and oil sprayed everywhere. Good idea to start the ST up before you put the tupperware back on to make sure its all tight.

Took the cover off and re-seated it and all was well. I re-used the original gaskets.

[dond]

Here's my numbers.
--------------
Valve clearances @ 28,800mi
Lt. int
Cyl #1 .18mm f .18mm rr
" #3 .17mm f .16mm*rr
Lt. ex
Cyl #1 .25mm*f .25*rr
" #3 .25mm*f .25mm*rr
Rt int
Cyl #2 .17mm f .17mm rr
" #4 .17mm f .17mm rr
Rt ex
Cyl #2 .25mm*f .26mm rr
" #4 .25mm*f .25mm*rr
*indicates right on the money.

-------
54,100mi

Lt int
Cyl#1 .17mm f 17mm r
" #3 .16mm *f 16mm* r

Lt ex
Cyl#1 25mm* f 25mm* r
Cyl#3 25mm* f 26mm r

Rt int
Cyl#2 16mm* f 17mm r
Cyl#4 17mm f 16mm* r

Rt ex
Cyl#2 25mm* f 25mm* r
Cyl#4 25mm* f 25mm* r

* indicates right on the money

[Kennedy]

From what I am reading these bikes really hold the clearances very well and require very little or no adjustments. Good to know and thanks for your post.

[Angelo]

In europe the tested a bike for (I believe) 65.000 miles and then stripped it to the bone.
Valve clearances were spot-on before stripping and were never adjusted up to then.

By the way, they had no complaints on the engine and such, save the problems we have all already found.

They said the insides of the engine (all parts) showed near to no signs of wear as was confirmed by Dynojet.
The camshaft still showed the original machining marks....

The engine power and torque had even increased compared to new!
I therefore do not wonder about wear....only about maintaining it properly

[WarER4X]

This is good news. I'll be doing my first valve check (16K miles) as soon as I get moved into my new house (beginning of May). It seems to me that checking the clearanceis is a piece of cake. Adjusting them seem to be quite a chore, plus there is the added down time if you have to order shims.

-SR-

[AZST1300A]

My last valve clearance check on my '03 @45K still required no adjustment. The counterbalancers on the otherhand seem to need a slight adjustment every 5 to 10k.

[niknine]

15,541 mile valve check report

Spec. int. 0.16mm +/- 0.03mm
Ex. 0.255mm +/- 0.03mm
Cyl
1 Int. 0.18 mm f 0.18 mm r
Ex 0.25 mm f 0.25 mm r
2 Int. 0.18 mm f 0.18 mm r
Ex 0.25 mm f 0.25 mm r
3 Int. 0.18 mm f 0.18 mm r
Ex 0.25 mm f 0.25 mm r
4 Int. 0.15 mm f 0.18 mm r
Ex 0.25 mm f 0.25 mm r

[dond]

With direct actuation, tighter clearances are a bi-product of miles/wear.. The valve seat gets deeper, the valve head may tulip slightly. If the clearance increases, you may have carbon build up. For me a good quality metric feeler and a light touch is a muST for very accurate results.

[NormanPCN]

With direct actuation, tighter clearances are a bi-product of miles/wear..

Unfortunately that means I am screwed. All my exhaust valves but one are on the tight side. The one is centered. All the intakes but one are centered. The one is loose.

[dond]

With direct actuation, tighter clearances are a bi-product of miles/wear.. The valve seat gets deeper, the valve head may tulip slightly. If the clearance increases, you may have carbon build up.KEY WORDS-->> For me <-- a good quality metric feeler and a light touch is a muST for very accurate results.
.001" is .0254mm
.01mm is .000393"
By using my mm feeler with .01mm increments I can be more precise for this important proceedure..

[Austin city limits]

:confused:

[WarER4X]

I completed my first valve check a couple weeks ago. Every single clearance was dead-nuts-on nominal (.006" for intake, .010" for exhaust). On the downside, a part of the heat apron that lays over the top of the engine got caught between my left head cover and head when I put everything back together. Yesterday, after mount wheels with new tires and installing new brake pads, I started up the bike and it smoked like a chimney. I then realized that there was oil down the front of the engine (not much) and on the down pipes. I removed the port-side tupperware and head cover and was pleased to discover that the problem was so minor. There was no damage to the rubber head cover seal, either. No more unwanted smoke! I'll be sure to watch out for that piece of heat apron in the future. Y'all be sure to do the same!

-SR-

[R.Markus]

Just checked mine:

#1 intake fr .007 rr .006
exhaust fr .011 rr .011

#2 intake fr .007 rr .011***
exhaust fr .011 rr .011

#3 intake fr .006 rr .006
exhaust fr .011 rr .011

#4 intake fr .006 rr .007
exhaust fr .011 rr .011


On all of the exhaust inspections (except the No. 2 cylinder) I could get the .012 feeler in but it was extremely tight, so I figured I was trying too hard.

The No. 2 rear intake was checked several times. I may not know what I'm doing but even I couldn't screw up measuring it that bad on several different occasions.

I need to get a metric feeler guage set and do the inspections over again. I assume I'm going to need the exact metric measurement of the gap (and have the shim out to measure) before I can get the correct shim.

[NormanPCN]

I assume I'm going to need the exact metric measurement of the gap (and have the shim out to measure) before I can get the correct shim.

You should not have to do this. You know the current gap. The shim currently installed is marked. Do the math and you know what shim you need to replace with to get the final gap you want.

[dond]

A very handy helper;


http://www.st1100.org/index_old.shtml

GO TO mathmatics for a shim calculator.

[dond]

Look for "KEY WORDS"

With direct actuation, tighter clearances are a bi-product of miles/wear.. The valve seat gets deeper, the valve head may tulip slightly. If the clearance increases, you may have carbon build up.KEY WORDS-->> For me <-- a good quality metric feeler and a light touch is a muST for very accurate results.
//////////

[R.Markus]

You should not have to do this. You know the current gap. The shim currently installed is marked. Do the math and you know what shim you need to replace with to get the final gap you want.

So, basically I can convert the .005 inches that the gap is too big to .127mm and add that to the thickness of the existing shim?

See if i'm getting this right then: If the existing shim is, say, 1.5mm. I would want a shim that is 1.627mm thick...I'd have to get the one that is 1.625mm. Is it that simple, or am I forgetting something? I used to work in a pattern shop/machine shop , but that seems like a lifetime ago and the math has slipped away.

And thanks all for your responses. My wife is always amused that I'll work on my $13k motorcycle without any real knowledge of what I'm doing. :eek: I research the best I can on certain projects and then just dive in.

[Bones]

Took my ST to the dealer for the 16k valve clearance check. The mechanic (who has an ST1100 and has worked for Valley Motorsports for years) reported that all clearances were dead on spec. Had the clutch and brake fluid replaced.
Bike continues to run great.

[crazykz]

I need to do my 32K check but haven't bought a torque wrench yet to do it. Might just suck it up and take it to the dealer to have them do it.

Curt

[Bones]

I need to do my 32K check but haven't bought a torque wrench yet to do it. Might just suck it up and take it to the dealer to have them do it.

Curt
Consider that my service (valve inspection and fluid flush) cost $180 (3 hours @$60/hour). I was quoted $240, but the mechanic knows ST's so he can go right to work without sitting over the shop manual trying to figure it all out.

I was also told that if the valves are out of spec, it adds another 2 hours labor.

[IntruderCruiser]

that is true-- you need to check the shims with a mic -- for someone reason the shims are not accurate -- at least they weren't on the other bikes I had that required shims

[George Radominski]

" George, it would be great if you would add your clearance report and record of original shim sizes to this thread:"

Per request I am posting my Valve clearances, 16K miles, 2004.


Clearances are in SAE, shims in metric.
*** - nominal spec.

Cylinder 1, left - front
***Intake F. 0.006”, shim 1.775
Intake R. 0.005”, shim 1.80 > 1.775
Exhaust F. 0.009, shim 1.55 > 1.525
Exhaust R. 0.009, shim 1.55 > 1.525

Cylinder 3, left - rear
***Intake F. 0.006”, shim 1.80
Intake R. 0.005”, shim 1.80 > 1.775
Exhaust F. 0.009, shim 1.60 > 1.575
Exhaust R. 0.009, shim 1.60 > 1.575

Cylinder 2, right - front
Intake F. 0.005”, shim 1.75 > 1.725
Intake R. 0.005”, shim 1.775 > 1.75 – reused shim
Exhaust F. 0.009, shim 1.575 > 1.55 – reused shim
Exhaust R. 0.009, shim 1.55 > 1.525

Cylinder 4, right - rear
Intake F. 0.005”, shim 1.825 > 1.80 – reused shim
***Intake R. 0.006”, shim 1.825
***Exhaust F. 0.010, shim 1.55
Exhaust R. 0.009, shim 1.575 > 1.55 – reused shim

[saaz]

The other way around. Valve seat wear makes the valve move closer to the cam, hence clearances tighten up. Carbon deposits might hold the valve out a bit from the cam, increasing clearances.

[George Radominski]

The other way around. Valve seat wear makes the valve move closer to the cam, hence clearances tighten up. Carbon deposits might hold the valve out a bit from the cam, increasing clearances. I agree, my mistake. :bow1:
George.

[wjbertrand]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

LiSTers,

I just completed my first valve clearance inspection on the ST1300. Honda really went pretty far back to the drawing board on this new bike compared to the ST1300. Not only is the cylinder numbering reversed (cylinders 1 & 3 on the left and 2 & 4 on the right) but the crankshaft rotates the opposite direction too! The cam holders on the 1300 make it a little tougher (compared to the ST1100) to get the feeler gauges in there while being able to see what you are doing.

I found all the clearances within specification, so no experience with pulling the cams yet thankfully. Here's the clearances I found:

Cyl #1
Ex #1 - 0.010"; Ex #2 - 0.010"
In #1 - 0.005" ; In #2 - 0.005"

Cyl #2
Ex #1 - 0.010"; Ex #2 - 0.010"
In #1 - 0.006" ; In #2 - 0.006"

Cyl #3
Ex #1 - 0.010"; Ex #2 - 0.009"
In #1 - 0.007" ; In #2 - 0.006"

Cyl #4
Ex #1 - 0.011"; Ex #2 - 0.010"
In #1 - 0.007" ; In #2 - 0.006"

The specifications are 0.010" Exhaust, 0.006" Intake, both +/- 0.001"

Couple of pointers; watch out for the edge of the heat blanket near the upper rear corner of the right valve cover. Looks like it would be pretty easy to accidently clamp it between the cover and the head - can you say oil leak? Also be mindful of the PAIR and PCV hoses that attach to the valve covers. On the left side, one of them ended up behind the frame rail after I replaced the valve cover. No way to get it back out without pulling the cover again!

I can't see the use of the crank position inspection hole that's located above the crankshaft bolt that you use to turn the engine over. There's no way to get a line-of-site view into it with the front wheel installed. It's got to be pretty straight on because the index marks are deeply recessed. I couldn't even see them let alone be able to align anything. Ended up relying on the cam chain sprocket index marks instead.

No signs of any problems (oil or water leaks) after a thorough under-faring inspection. Tweaked all the radiator hose clamps that I could reach just a touch while I was in there. Buttoned her all back up and I expect she's good to go 'till 32K now.

[dond]

Paul and all, if you use a metric feeler you can measure these clearances more precisely. The feeler I use has .01mm increments.
.001" is .0254mm
.01mm is .000393"

Metric engine, metric measurements :-)

[wjbertrand]

Well, the simple reasons are that; 1. they are still in spec (if it ain't broke don't fixit) and 2., I didn't have any shims handy. The risk of burning an intake (if it even happens - never heard of it) seems very small. I'm actually more concerned about a tight exhaust valve and I did have one at 0.009". All of these clearances were quite loose with the 0.005" and 0.009" gauges respectively. I'll be looking at these closely at 32K to see if they've changed. By then I will have ordered and received a shim kit just in case. I didn't worry about it this time given the rarity of the ST needing any adjustments this early.

[sport_tourer]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I can't see the use of the crank position inspection hole that's located above the crankshaft bolt that you use to turn the engine over. There's no way to get a line-of-site view into it with the front wheel installed. It's got to be pretty straight on because the index marks are deeply recessed. I couldn't even see them let alone be able to align anything. Ended up relying on the cam chain sprocket index marks instead.


Yeah, that looked troublesome at first, but after cursing for a while I found a way without removing the front wheel to see the timing marks through the inspection hole. One needs to hang a shop light between the fender and the radiator slightly above the crank position inspection hole and then lay down along the right side of the bike with your feet towards the front wheel and use a small mirror to look back into the crank position inspection hole. Dont laugh, it works great and one can easily read the T1 and T2 timing marks. That's my method.

But what's interesting to me is the metric vs. english clearance specifications. If you do the math, the intake clearance of 0.16 mm plus/minus .03 mm is .163 mm to .157 mm for the clearance range. However, if you use the optional .006 inches plus/minus .001 inches and then do some english to metric conversions there is a difference. For example... .163 mm /25.4 mm to the inch yields .0064 inches, while .157 mm/25.4 mm to the inch yields .0062 inches which is different than the english clearance option of .006 plus minus .001 inches. So, which is it...metric or english? Metric motor, metric tools is most likely, but why would Honda provide english specs otherwise? Beats me!


NOTE TO SELF AND REST OF BOARD...make sure your math is correct before posting.....the math in the red is wrong and such affects the numbers...see later post for clarification, duh!

[wjbertrand]

As an alternative to removing the wheel or fender, use a small mirror to view the crankshaft index mark and pointer. Position the mirror close to the fender and play with the angle. With a little bit of trial and error, and a shop light, all will become clear.

Yeah, the thought of employing a mirror occurred to me but since using the index marks on the cam was so easy, I decided not to bother. I think if I had removed a cam to swap a shim I would have gone to the extra effort however, just to make sure I had it back in and timed correctly.

[sport_tourer]

Ok, so anyone gonna divulge a source for a high quality, metric only feeler guage? I just spent a good deal time searching on the net and found squat. My current metric guage is the typical .05mm, .10, .15, .20, .25, .30mm, .35, etc. guage and I would like to find something with a bit more precision.

[crazykz]

Ok, so anyone gonna divulge a source for a high quality, metric only feeler guage? I just spent a good deal time searching on the net and found squat. My current metric guage is the typical .05mm, .10, .15, .20, .25, .30mm, .35, etc. guage and I would like to find something with a bit more precision.

I'm with you on this. I bought the one from Sears that will work but the smallest one is needed for a minimum clearance check. It would be nice to have one under that to get an idea of where the clearance is if it is below the minimum.

Curt

[dond]

Chris and all, to clarify; the feeler I have has 9 blades. .30mm, .20mm, .15mm, 10mm, .08mm, .07mm, .06mm, .05mm and .04mm. This allows a combo of various blades to get your clearance in .01mm increments. (10mm + .06mm = .16mm) Make sure the blades are dry/clean of course.
The feeler is a generic brand (no name on it) and it was inluded in a very inexpensive tool set that I aquired several years ago.
Always check accuracy with a caliper/mic.
I would think that any AP store or online supplier of import parts/tools would have what you need.

hth

[sport_tourer]

Thanks for reply Don.

So, you're combining two blades to get the .16mm the intake valves need. Hmmmm, I dont know if that's better or worse than simply using one blade ito measure the .005 to .007 inch specification range.

Guess I will stick the the standard inch guages in my usage, but I really was all hot and bothered when you eluded that you had an .01mm increment metric guage......damn....just like the yellow colored unicorn with padded hoofs which reportedly pulled Santa's sleigh in the early years, imagine my dismay when I found out they didnt exist.

Try http://www.mcmaster.com/ is one wishes to order invidiual blades


Thanks again.

[sport_tourer]

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1963847&PMT4NO=3047476

Is the most "detailed" metric guage I could find....

[sport_tourer]

Oh vey, I made a mistake in my earlier post ..... 0.16mm plus/minus .03mm is NOT, repeat NOT .163mm and .157mm.....duh, huge mistake, but since I get to fix it before someone else does, its only half a mistake.

So here is the correction.............0.16 mm plus/minus .03 mm (the intake spec) is a range of .19 mm to .13 mm. Divide those numbers by 25.4mm/inch and you get .0075 inches and .0051 inches using standard english specs. Most standard guages can EASILY be had in .005, .006, .007 and .008 inch blades, so simply use .005 for the tight side and .008 for the loose side.

Same goes for the exhaust... .25 mm plus/minus .03mm is a range of .28mm to .22 mm or 0.011 inches to 0.087 inches. Use a .09 and a 0.011 inch english blade and your fine.

I hate it when my "analness" comes to play and gets the better of me for a while. Should just stayed using my english guages and never joined the attempt at metric conversion!

[crazykz]

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1963847&PMT4NO=3047476

Is the most "detailed" metric guage I could find....

That one is not angled though and to do the valves they have to be angled to get an accurate measurement.

Curt

[dond]

That one is not angled though and to do the valves they have to be angled to get an accurate measurement.

Curt
Not so.

Methinks you guys are making this harder than it is :-)

[crazykz]

Not so.

Methinks you guys are making this harder than it is :-)

Well I'll admit that I am new to the valve adjustment deal but in saying that it also means I don't have much experience with checking the valves so I only know the way I was shown.

I know that when we were checking the valves I couldn't see a way to get a straight feeler gauge into some of the intake valves and we did try without success.

I'll accept that it can be done but as of yet I haven't figured out how with a straight feeler gauge.

Curt

[dond]

One problem with the "bent" feeler gauges is they tend to break at the bend. These type gauges work best in applications where the gauge is inserted then the clearance is adjusted down to the gauge, screw type adjusters for example.

Paul
I have tried the bent feelers and find that that subtle "feel" isn't there for me. Hard to put into words. Bikes with their (generally) low spring weights need the sensitivity that the STraight gauges provide.
Easier for me to feel that sweet spot between compressing the spring :-( and juST right :-)

[saaz]

I always go by the level of drag on the feeler guage as it goes in. Always easy to find one that will not go in easily, then the next size up that slides in nicely. Bikes with shims are a doddle to do (as you are limited to some degree about how exact you can get it), as you can fiddle around a lot on screw adjusters trying to get it just right, as obviously you can.

If you have to force it in so much that the spring compresses, I think that is a bit tight! As the metric and imperial conversions are not exactly the same, I would not worry too much

[sport_tourer]

There is no need for angled feeler guages...straight ones work fine and they do "flex". If you are having a hard time inserting the blade into the intake shim areas, remove the blade from the set and simply hold it with a needle nose pliers.

I just completed the valve check process and it all honesty, if you read the posts herein suggesting how to view things and what things to be careful about, it really is not a hard task. The hardest part IMO is the viewing of the timing marks until you actually figure that out and then its pretty darn easy.

17211 miles on the 2004 model and all clearances on my bike were within spec and most of them were on the "loose" side.

[dond]

Chris, when you can, poST your numbers please.

[sport_tourer]

Chris, when you can, poST your numbers please.

Oh geez, now you want me to work again! Let me go get the book and have at it.

Cyl 1. Intake .006 L, .007 ML Exhaust .010 MT, .011 T

Cyl 2 Intake .006 MT, .007 MT Exhaust .011 T, .011T

Cyl 3 Intake .007 T, .007 T Exhaust .010 T, .010 T

Cyl 4 Intake .007 MT, .006 L Exhaust .011 T, .011 T


Code is as follows:

L = loose
ML = moderately loose
MT = moderately tight
T = Tight

Above is increasing in "tightness"

Yeah, dont ask me about my "coding" order, but I understand it and have been using those descriptive phrases for years.

17,211 miles.

[nisbeam]

Yes, the timing marks are hard to find. I didn't bother. It is easy to see when the piston is at TDC and the valves are closed - you can easily see the position of the cam lobes for the purposes of measuring the gap, so that is what I did. I have used that method for many years on other vehicles so I cant see any reason why the ST should be different. Results were the same as other have found - all within spec. at 16k miles, due for another check soon.
Incidentally, the best way to turn the engine over is to remove all the plugs, and select second gear. You can then push the back tyre with your foot to turn the engine over as slowly as you like. :03biker:

[nisbeam]

Yes I did. In second gear you can move the back wheel (with plugs out) to turn the engine & thus the camshafts, and clearly see when the camshaft lobes are pointing upwards and maximum valve clearance is achieved. I did this on each in turn & noted down my results. All OK :) What problem did you have when you tried this ?

[nisbeam]

it should move fairly easily in 2nd, you could try 3rd of course as this may be easier again. If it wont turn maybe the wheel is rubbing on something (touching the ground ?), or a plug is still in. You wont be able to overcome the compression by hand until all the plugs are removed. Good luck next time :03biker:

[JReviere]

Did the deed yesterday (5 Dec 05). All but one intake dead center on. That one was .0065". No sweat. Now, if that #$%^&*@#% tupperware werent such a hassle. 10 hrs to do the deed w/just 10 min to check the valves and 10 min to change clutch fluid... the rest of the time futzing w/tupperware and those *&^&%#$*! trim fasteners. My bike is an 03. Some of the things were so deteriorated they crumbled when removed. I've had to "engineer" other means of securing the tupperware. But, the deed is done. How sweet is the peace of mind ! ! !

JR

[ajpags]

Checked out your sheet - wonder why I don't use Excel when doing mine...silly scratchings in the manual! ;-)

Just curious why you opted NOT to bring #2's valves back within spec? Is it because you're not done just yet, or is there some other reason?

Also, not sure why you aren't re-using shims?

On another point, I'm going to be mighty upset if when I do mine I already have 160's in there from the factory. On my race bikes (FZR400's), anything below a 165 meant a new valve job as the intakes had a habit of getting cupped into the head and hurting horsepower. Probably doesn't make a difference on a fresh from the factory motor, but on a used race motor, it could make the difference between first, and almost first.

Good info all around though - thanks!

[dbst1300]

Quick question????

I have some .050 aluminum sheet laying around. Can I use it to make the cam chain tensioner stopper tool, or does it have to be closer to 1mmm/.040?

Dennis

[ChucksKLRST]

Quick question????

I have some .050 aluminum sheet laying around. Can I use it to make the cam chain tensioner stopper tool, or does it have to be closer to 1mmm/.040?

Dennis


NO. Been tried by me and found out it doesnot work. Use stainless steel. Attached are a couble of pics of out futile attempt to manufacture one out of aluminum.:o:

[dbst1300]

Well then, steel it is. Thanks for the replies. Dennis

[dbst1300]

I checked my valve clearances today at 17,202 miles on my 2004 ST1300.
They were:

FRONT OF ENGINE


#1 cylinder Exhaust Intake #2 cylinder Intake Exhaust

tight .010 tight .007 .006 .010
tight .010 tight .007 .006 tight .011

#3 cylinder Exhaust Intake #4 cylinder Intake Exhaust

.010 .006 tight .007 tight .010
tight .011 .006 tight .006 .010

All were within specs and I will be checking them again 16,000 to 18,000 miles from now. It took me about 4 hours at a leasurely pace while I cleaned everything up nice and tidy while I had the fairing off.

Dennis

[newbornst1300]

Valve clearances @ 29K kms

#1 in .006/.006 ex .010/.010
#2 in .006T/.006L ex .009/.010
#3 in .006/.006 ex .009/.010
#4 in .005L/.006 ex .010T/.010
L = slightly loose
T = slightly tight

Glad they were all within spec and thanks to all for the tech tips.

[Byron]

Feeler gauge question; are the standard 1/2" x 3" feelers working O.K., or would the bent or longer/narrower ones work better?

[MMOB]

Feeler gauge question; are the standard 1/2" x 3" feelers working O.K., or would the bent or longer/narrower ones work better?





Bent gauges are much easier to use. Sears sells a set of bent SAE feelers.

[dbst1300]

Feeler gauge question; are the standard 1/2" x 3" feelers working O.K., or would the bent or longer/narrower ones work better?

I had both, and actually used both sets to make sure everything was as accurate as possible. I didn't have any problem with either bent or straight feeler gauges. YMMV

Dennis

[crazykz]

I searched for a while to find an angled feeler gauge that at least went down to .004. Lisle makes one called the "go no-go feeler guage".

You can get it from Amazon or Widwest Auto Supply:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JML5G/104-1197329-8210340?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=15684181

Specs are here:
http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=1154

Curt

[B11RGER]

Left hand side all in-valves 0.006, all out-valves 0.010,(nice tight fit on gauge)
right hand side 3 in-valves 0.006, 1@0.007 all out-valves 0.010, (nice tight fit on gauge):D

[ajpags]

Hey there -

Don't have the manual handy - is the cam chain stopper tool thing mentioned in this thread necessary? Is it that key looking thing that came with the bike? (bought mine used, so I'm not really sure).

TIA...

Pags

[MMOB]

Hey there -

Don't have the manual handy - is the cam chain stopper tool thing mentioned in this thread necessary? Is it that key looking thing that came with the bike? (bought mine used, so I'm not really sure).

TIA...

Pags

A small, flat blade screwdriver will also work to turn the mechanism; the ones that are typically 4 inches long or so, with 1/8 inch wide blade. But then you also need some way to keep it turned fully clockwise while you remove the chain.

[Buckeye Rich]

I completed a check last week on my 03 ST w/ 19,463 miles. Here are the results...

#1 in .005/.007 ex .010/.011
#3 in .006/.007 ex .010/.010
#2 in .006/.007 ex .009/.010
#4 in .006/.006 ex .010/.011

All are within spec, however #1 intake(front) and #2 exhaust(front) are at the low end of being in spec. I figure I will check them again this oming winter and "recenter" everything then.