ST1100 Fuse box, autocom, XM, GPS, amplifier installation pics

[mutineer]

After posting pics of the Centech fusebox (on another board) I was going to use some guys wanted to know more about it. I thought it may helpful here as well so here is my install. I finally got the AP-1 fusebox in and wired up some accesories.

Here is the fusebox. It has an incoming power/ground and the provides fused power for up to 8 accessories and is rated for a total of 60 amps.

http://mutineer.smugmug.com/photos/18062735-M.jpg



First I had to strip the beaST (I know, not imaginative, I am still working on it).


http://mutineer.smugmug.com/photos/18062740-M.jpg

I put in a relay behind the fusebox. I tapped the headlight fuse for switched power. The hot wire from the battery to the relay has an inline fuse. The fuse is tucked behind the battery but you do not have remove the battery to get to it.

http://mutineer.smugmug.com/photos/17974459-M.jpg


I cut the bottom out of the fairing pocket for the boxes. Previous owner had a small cb radio in ther which I pulled an tossed, it was DOA. I lined the inside of the pocket with industrial velcro for mounting. The pocket holds the Autocom, amp from a guy in canada who custom made it to hook up 12v power and with a remote volume switch , the Centech AP-1 box, the insulated audio hookup for the autocom and all the wiring bundled up. The heat-troller is wired through the AP-1 but tucked elsehwere, on hte tank near the vacuum lines, also velcro'd.

I used industrial velcro to mount it all to the sides of the pocket for easy removal for roadside repair and used metric bolts everywhere so I didn't get stuck without the right tool. Always gotta have the right tool.


http://mutineer.smugmug.com/photos/18062703-M.jpg


I had great service from vendors. The amp is very nice a guy named Gary built it for me to my specs for only fifty bucks. His website http://www.electric-avenues.com/ and he is a supremely nice guy. Increases the available autocom volume by about 500%.

The fuse box was back ordered for weeks from Aerostitch so I called Centech directly (www.centech-wiring.com ) and after explaining the situation, it was getting warm and my tupperware was all over the garage waiting on this part the guy made up a single one and shipped it the next day.

I hated the plastic bakelite knobs that came with the amp and the heattroller so I found some knurled aluminum knobs for 99 cents a pop so I bought those and installed them in the fairing panel.


http://mutineer.smugmug.com/photos/18062706-M.jpg



I am so confidant in my work that I went and bought a cool little pocket size digital multimeter for tht tool kit on the bike. Then when the ship goes dark on some godforsaken country road and I am about to get eaten by farm dogs I can be reassured that I could have fixed the problem had Cujo not eaten my arm.

The GPS is mounted on a Ram mount on the handlebars as will the XM Roady2. Still waiting on the hardwire harness for the XM to get here but it should go in pretty quick.

[John Anthony]

Nicely done. I always appreciate seeing the work of someone who cares enough to do a quality installation.

[Horst]

... thanks for sharing this. And your RED bike is *almost* as pretty as my wineberry one ... ;)

[Mellow]

Very nice write up, looks great..

[crazykz]

Thanks for the tip on the amp. I like the remote volume knob. I'm wondering if he would consider putting the power switch up there too.

Curt

[Berzins]

I am so glad you posted this. Funny enough it looks exactly like the setup I need to install as well.

Some questions I have are:

1. Do you use an FRS/GMRS radio as well? And if so, where did you mount it?

2. Is the Autocom, etc mounted in the right or left side of the bike?

3. Can you expand on "12v power and with a remote volume switch"? I have the 12V power lead you can by from Autocom to hook it up to bike power, but am not sure who and where you purchased the volume knobs?

4. There seems to be two knobs that you installed. One I assume is for the amp you talk about, what is the other?

The reason I ask about the side, is that a lot of people have said the left side (non locking), get REAL hot in that compartment. I've only had mine for a few weeks, and for the most part, have not been able to ride becuase of the snow.

Sorry for the 21 questions, just interested in trying to do something very similar.

Dave...

[mutineer]

Just took a 100 miles shake down ride.

Volume OK, but adjustable range is narrow. There is no power switch on the amp. It is hooked up to the fuse box which is switched on via a relay. Everything powered by the fuse box is switched on with the ignition.

The stuff is all in the left sode pocket.

It does get warm, but to get the items to fit you must cut out the bottom of the pocket. Not for the faint of heart. I used a dremel with a cut off wheel and then used a sanding bob to round the edges of the cut so they would not cut the wires via abrasion.

The right volume knob is from the amp. The left side knob with the red LED above it for a heat-troller. There is no knob for the autocom. I think the new 7 series do have adjustable volume as that was a major complaint about autocom gear.

The knobs are readily availble. They are "guitar knobs" for electric guitars. There are all kinds at all price points. I wanted black knurled aluminum but the best price I could find was 8 bucks each, I bought a dozen for 99 cents each on ebay.

The 12v I mentioned is for the amp, but I also have the autocom hooked up to 12v. If I need to yank it for trouble shooting I just pull it from the velcro and lift it up, or pass it through the engine access panel. Roadside repair was a big part of my placement approach. If I had problems I wanted to remove as little plastic as possible to get to the problem.

I have n inulated cord between the amp and the audio source. I used a regular lead between the amp and autocom. I am getting engine noise so I all add an insulated lead.

Not using a radio yet for bike to bike yet. Among the guys I ride with I am the first to get a system like this. I will probably use a GMRS and just toss it in a tank bag.

I hope this helpds. If anymore questions please ask. I have recevied a lot of help from boards like this so answering questions ought to help keep my karma balanced.

[Berzins]

Thanks for the reply.

I have the Sport-7, and I have used it for over a year on another bike and it rocks. You get for what you pay for.

One other question. Any reason for your choice to mount it in the side pouch as opposed to under the rear seat?

Dave...

[crazykz]

Hi there again,

Hey I have the Centech fuse block like you have but I have a question about how you ran the wires out of it for your devices. I don't see any of the power wires that are screwed into the terminals they provide sticking out the sides of the fuseblock. Is it just the picture or did you route them inside the fuseblock or something like that?

I did notice how you did the power leads which is a clever idea just need to make sure you don't drop anything metal across them and watch that the soldered components sticking out the bottom don't rub through the wire's insulation. None of that is probably a major issue but I'm the type of person that would happen to.

Thanks again for posting this.

Curt

[mutineer]

Here is how I did the the velcro mount and devices wires.

I drilled some holes in the bottom of the circuit board once I figured out in my head how I was going to put everything in the pocket.

Then I just routed them to the back of the box and secureed them all
together with a zip tie for strain relief.

Front view.

http://mutineer.smugmug.com/photos/18062746-M.jpg


Back view


http://mutineer.smugmug.com/photos/18062747-M.jpg


There is no pic of this, but I drilled a third hole to the right of the first two holes and routed the power wires next to the device bundle so the would not all be run through the same bundle of wires.

The velcro is attached to the back of the fuse box. The fuse box has raised mounitng posts so you cannot flush mount. This is what allowed rfor routing of the wires behind the box.


The tricky part was figuring out was to use for fastening the mouting posts to. It needed to be durable but very thin. I had one of those throw away injection molded plastic cases that Crafstman tool sets come in. I cut that up with tin snip and then heavy scissors to trim it and out velcro on the back of htat and mounted with screws. The plastic is perfect because it is pliabe but amost impossible to tear or rip.

http://mutineer.smugmug.com/photos/18062736-M.jpg


Here is another view from the top, but from the other side of hte left fairing pocket thst is a little, but just a little, better for getting an idea of how the wires run.

http://mutineer.smugmug.com/photos/18062701-M.jpg


All the wires are accessible from the engine access panel so I am only, at worst, two screws away from full access.

dave

[crazykz]

Thanks for the pics Dave and the explanation. Gives me some ideas on how to do mine. Not sure I want to rip out what I've done but I might if it doesn't work out like I hope it will.

I'll probably post some pics on what I did eventually. I've learned that taking a lot of pics of wiring projects is useless because you can't tell where stuff was run anyway and everyone has a preference.

Thanks again,
Curt