Finally got out (fuseblock in place)

[crazykz]

I got everything on the bike today and took it out for a spin. I'm hoping everything works out ok. My GPS bounces little on the shelf so I might have to work on that and I have a little buzz when music is playing but not enough to annoy me.

Pretty happy with everything so far but time will tell. I'll include a couple shots of the Centech Fuse Block and placement. I made it so that the wiring harness is long enough to come out the front of the bike after removing the inner cowling. Actually you could probably leave the upper part of the inner cowling attached (since that's the hardest to line back up) and remove the lower rivets and screw to get at it. We'll see I guess.

Curt

[Louie Louie]

Can you recommend a decent block for the ST...I like the idea of not having too much STuff in the terminals.

[jdpfms]

I asked this on another thread, but since I read your post I'll ask again. I'm wiring an electrical connection master block on the bike. The only question I have is which wire from the bike do I wire up to that allows everything to stay off when the ignition is off and I assume also shuts off when starting the bike so as not to use juice while starting. I don't have my service manual yet, so just wondered which color wire to use.

Thanks a bunch for anyone's help.

JDP

[AzDesertRider]

I asked this on another thread, but since I read your post I'll ask again. I'm wiring an electrical connection master block on the bike. The only question I have is which wire from the bike do I wire up to that allows everything to stay off when the ignition is off and I assume also shuts off when starting the bike so as not to use juice while starting. I don't have my service manual yet, so just wondered which color wire to use.

Thanks a bunch for anyone's help.

JDP


I have not found an ign source wire that would carry the complete load of a "master Block" If you only want your fuse block to be "hot" when the key is on, you will need to use a relay that can handle the total amp load of your fuse box & then use an Ign Hot wire to excite the relay.

[jdpfms]

I have not found an ign source wire that would carry the complete load of a "master Block" If you only want your fuse block to be "hot" when the key is on, you will need to use a relay that can handle the total amp load of your fuse box & then use an Ign Hot wire to excite the relay.

I've wired these before to GL1800 but don't know which wire to use for the ST. The EC master fuse block has a connection to the battery and a relay. There is a gound wire and a blue wire that is to be used to wire up either hot all the time or hot with ignition on which is what I'm looking for. I think there should be one on the ST and figure the wiring diagram of the service manual will have that. The owner's manual isn't that helpful for this. Thanks,

JDP

[STeve1300]

I've wired these before to GL1800 but don't know which wire to use for the ST. The EC master fuse block has a connection to the battery and a relay. There is a gound wire and a blue wire that is to be used to wire up either hot all the time or hot with ignition on which is what I'm looking for. I think there should be one on the ST and figure the wiring diagram of the service manual will have that. The owner's manual isn't that helpful for this. Thanks,

JDP
Did you see my reply on that other thread...it should help..It gives step by step instructions

[Trekker]

I got everything on the bike today and took it out for a spin.

Curt

I too got on my little scooter today! :) :) :) Brought my Silverwing home from the warehouse at work where it has been stored for the winter. First ride of the season.....sigh....

All better now......for a little while.

[jdpfms]

Did you see my reply on that other thread...it should help..It gives step by step instructions

Yeah, Steve I got that on the other thread. That was exactly what I needed. I guess I'll use the tap also, but I don't really trust them long term. I'll give it a shot. I appreciate the help.

JDP

[crazykz]

Yeah, Steve I got that on the other thread. That was exactly what I needed. I guess I'll use the tap also, but I don't really trust them long term. I'll give it a shot. I appreciate the help.

JDP

I used a slightly different method using a posi-lock. I used a posi-lock because I had originally used a tap that failed on me on a big trip.

[crazykz]

I know. Everywhere I look... more dirt. Dammit! I found a ton when I dropped the rear fender today to put on the pillion brackets. Luckily I had most of the tail of the bike broken down already. Looks like I may end up drilling holes to get at the bolts on the passenger grab rails that mount it to the frame. That way I can use longer bolts with some bushings to use to bolt the pillion shelf to the frame. If I do it with the 4 bolts for the top box bracket then it's not bolted to the frame.

Curt

[ccryder]

So what are you using to power your goodies on the back end?

Neil S.

[crazykz]

So what are you using to power your goodies on the back end?

Neil S.

Beans. ;)

I built an aux fuseblock with a relay. Put it in a tackle box from Gander Mountain and put it in the tail of the bike. It was an expierment and it works really well. It is the plain old Bussman fuseblock and I added two bolts for grounding. The relay is the standard 30A relay from Radioshack.

Curt

[Firehawk]

Folks,

I finally mounted a fuse block under my Corbin seat with a negative terminal block. I bought the fuse block for $8 from Advance Auto Parts. It's made by Bussman. The same company that makes all the auto fuses. It worked out great. I'll post pictures as soon as I develop the roll of film. (Yes, I am old school.)