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View Full Version : Calsi windshield and mirror deflectors


duSTy
04-12-2005, 09:12 PM
I think I saw that someone else has a Calsi large windshield and had to cut it to get it to go down all the way. I just got one and have that same problem. I'm just not sure how much to cut or where, so I figured I would tap into someone elses experience.

Thanks.

Tom

NormanPCN
04-12-2005, 09:22 PM
??? Cut in the obvious place.

Where it (the shield) conflicts/contacts the mirror deflectors. Or cut the deflectors. That shield is designed to fit right down to the mirrors.

Dave Wicks
04-12-2005, 09:34 PM
:04biker:
I don't know how to create a New Post...sorry but this is a windshield issue. I had purchased a Cee Bailey stock height, 6 inches wider, plus moved up from a 1/2 helmet to CL 14 full face...Wow....It's about 40 degrees or 9 Cel. with a shrieking cold wind ..just did my first ride with windshield and new helmet..This is like another bike...What I love is that I can here the snarl from the engine...lost to the wind before...I may be open to sell the stock windshield...I'll ride a bit first..I have the CalSci mirror deflectors above and below mirror versions but have not put them on yet..reluctant to drill this gorgeous bike..Gonna give wife a ride on nicer day..see how she's doing with the wind...if she is still buffeted I'll put them on..Question?? Anybody got an opinion concerning Honda black molded deflectors for around mirrors and down sides of fairing as compared to CalSci shields..Which works the best?? :confused:

Carl_T
04-12-2005, 09:59 PM
Don't know about Calsci. I put on the Honda and got some buffetting around the sides of my head that wasn't there before with the stock windshield all the way up, wish they didn't do that (it's liveable though). However it keeps my hands warmer by a good deal than before. Looks good also (if you put them on right). They keep the heat from the heads away adequately. Lots of $$$ for both mirror and fairing extensions.

duSTy
04-12-2005, 10:32 PM
??? Cut in the obvious place.

Where it (the shield) conflicts/contacts the mirror deflectors. Or cut the deflectors. That shield is designed to fit right down to the mirrors.
I guess I was just asking if anyone else had done this. Did they cut a half inch from the edge to the center? Did they cut out a notch? I know I would need to cut where they hit. There are just always more than one way to do something and I know I don't always think of all the ways and often not the best way.

Tom

Austin city limits
04-12-2005, 11:29 PM
Dusty~~~

I had this and I cut 1 inch off the bottom back,,, and tappered it down to cutting nothing when I got to the front edge...

This was with the Mirror deflectors on and it would be a smaller amount cut if you did not have them on,,, if you would really need to cut at all...

I used a "Roto-Zip" saw but you can do the very same using a Dremel with a plastic cutting Roto-Zip" type blade/bit in it...

I marked where I wanted it cut with a strip of masking tape... I took a piece of metal about 1 inch wide,,, put a small bend in it to match the curve of the shield and clamped it onto my shield over the masking tape to assure no scratches while cutting from the metal... I used the metal as a guide to cut a straight edge...

I then took a piece of fairly fine sandpaper,,, duct taped it to a block of wood to assume the look of the true professional that I am,,, ;) and sanded down the edge and rounded the corners... It took all of,,, say,,, 30 minutes from start to finish to get it perfect...

duSTy
04-13-2005, 06:11 AM
Thanks, Terry. Lots of good ideas. I don't have much experience with cutting plastic and really don't want to botch the project.

Tom

Austin city limits
04-13-2005, 09:05 AM
I had never cut ANYTHING with my Zip Saw and really,,, I was as worried as you... It turned out super easy to cut... The stuff Mark makes his shields out of is very thick and cuts easy...

When I cut mine off I had a pointy wedge or material to throw away and was AMAZED at how pliable it was... I had a Rifle on my Concours and the material they used would snap if it was bent to far... This stuff Mark uses I could touch the wedge I cut off it "End to End" an it would spring back...