jnsgardner
05-08-2005, 12:59 AM
This is not from any Honda manuel, but rather the 'keep undoing screws and bolts until it comes off' school of mechanics.
I needed to get the lockable fairing box out in order to install the hardware for mounting a stereo inside the box. It's attached to the left fairing in what was, at the time, a mysterious way. I assume that you've already removed the tach/speedo housing.
1. Remove the black plastic hump (?) with one hex bolt underneath.
2. Remove the black plastic left radiator shroud with 3 pop up rivets, 1 screw and 2 rivets on the inner side of the lockable box. Remember how and where it slides down and out of in order to put it back in right. I didn't and scratched it trying to force it back in where it didn't want to go. It slides out (and back in) near the steering shock strut.
4. Remove the 2 hex bolts and 1 plastic rivet (by your shin) holding the lower black underfairing to the upper fairing.
5. Remove the 2 bolts revealed under the 'hump'.
6. Remove anything else that I've forgotten that's holding it on.
Wriggle it up and tip forward remembering any placement tabs that pop out 'cause they have to go back in place to put it back.
The box now comes off with just 3 screws.
You might have to cut a relief in the inner lip of the box opening to slide the stereo in but we'll deal with that later.
Your stereo came with a steel mounting housing with a lot of holes in it. Slip the stereo in this housing and then slip them into the now unattached box lying flat on a table. You probably want the volume control to the rear so you can reach it easily while driving. Push them far enough in so that any control buttons won't be squished by the closed lid, but not so far in as to have the controls so recessed that they are hard to operate. Measure how far in that places the mounting housing from the upper lip of the box. I found that the housing wanted to have one mounting thru bolt forward and outboard and one inner and to the rear making it slightly angled and not 'square'with the box, but then the box isn't square either. Push it as far forward as it will go leaving you some space to the rear (you might want to put excess cable in that space). Pick a hole in the housing, measure the coresponding position on the outside of the box being careful to note that there maybe some thicker parts of the box moulding. In the thick or thin part, doesn't matter, just not right on the edge (like my first hole was), close your eyes and drill. Use a screw bolt from the inside out rather than a hex bolt as the head might be too big to let the radio slide in easily later. Tighten the mounting housing down with a tru bolt and nut making sure that the housing isn't tweeked in the process.
Do the same in the rear. Do a test fit with the stereo. You might have to file the screw bolt head down a bit to give the stereo a slip fit. Now you're going to need some holes in the lower forward edge of the box for:
1. antenna lead (bulky fitting, probably 3/8")
2. speaker leads
3. electrical leads
4. remote leads. I'm using a black marine Sony XM-10 wired remote from Crutchfields (dented and scratched for $130 saving $20 and found that it was neither) mounted on a Roady XM radio holder from Cycle Gadgets. Sony has another wired remote that is cheaper and is just a complicated knob. You might want to hold off on the remote purchase. I haven't mounted it yet (but will) and find that it is quite easy to control the volume and push the pre-set buttons on the radio while driving if you don't mind driving with the lockable door open.
Put the box back on the fairing and put the fairing back in place. Jiggle, wiggle, whatever is needed to get it back on. The bottom goes inside the lower black fairing first, then the screws in the mirror housing area, then the bolts in the hump area.
Put the fairing shroud back making sure it slides up and inside the inner box lip.
MAKE SURE THAT YOU DON'T HAVE ANY EXTRA HARWARE LEFT OVER!
Try to slip the radio into it's mounting bracket in the box. You might have to use a Dremel to cut a relief in the inner box lip for the corner of the stereo to slip in free.
Show the wife the result of your handywork.
Where to mount the antenna? I got simple antenna from Radio Shack with a spring at the base and mounted it forward of the mirror housing and angled back with the same rake as the windscreen. I have visions of having a CB in the future and ordered an antenna and mount with a CB/FM splitter from Firestik.com. They talked me into a 3 footer and mount for a non-ground plan vehicles which, when it came, is way too long. I'll stick with my Radio Shack one and order a 2 footer when it's CB time. Drilling that mounting hole in my beautiful new fairing was hard so you might want to consider other possibilities such as a license plate mount.
Take your speakers and tach/speedo housing to a stereo shop (it's OK to drive the ST without it in place) and have them do the wiring connections to the STs electrical system. Make sure everything works with the key in the ON and also in the ACC position. If you are in the San Diego area, I went to Diamond Services, 6670 Miramar Rd., 858 453-7787. They did it all for $90. If you are putting in a XM (or Sirus) radio, they come with a power cord with a cigarette lighter end that steps the 12 volts down to 6 volts. Cycle Gadgets has a cable for $40 that does the same thing, but I just got a cigarette lighter holder from Radio Shack and had Diamond Services wire it into the mix. It works fine. It may seem like a cobbled up connection, but it's hidden so who's to know. The purists would go with the Gadget's cable.
Ah, gentle reader you say, what about these speakers that have magically appeared in the tach/speedo housing? Read the final thread and all will be revealed.
I needed to get the lockable fairing box out in order to install the hardware for mounting a stereo inside the box. It's attached to the left fairing in what was, at the time, a mysterious way. I assume that you've already removed the tach/speedo housing.
1. Remove the black plastic hump (?) with one hex bolt underneath.
2. Remove the black plastic left radiator shroud with 3 pop up rivets, 1 screw and 2 rivets on the inner side of the lockable box. Remember how and where it slides down and out of in order to put it back in right. I didn't and scratched it trying to force it back in where it didn't want to go. It slides out (and back in) near the steering shock strut.
4. Remove the 2 hex bolts and 1 plastic rivet (by your shin) holding the lower black underfairing to the upper fairing.
5. Remove the 2 bolts revealed under the 'hump'.
6. Remove anything else that I've forgotten that's holding it on.
Wriggle it up and tip forward remembering any placement tabs that pop out 'cause they have to go back in place to put it back.
The box now comes off with just 3 screws.
You might have to cut a relief in the inner lip of the box opening to slide the stereo in but we'll deal with that later.
Your stereo came with a steel mounting housing with a lot of holes in it. Slip the stereo in this housing and then slip them into the now unattached box lying flat on a table. You probably want the volume control to the rear so you can reach it easily while driving. Push them far enough in so that any control buttons won't be squished by the closed lid, but not so far in as to have the controls so recessed that they are hard to operate. Measure how far in that places the mounting housing from the upper lip of the box. I found that the housing wanted to have one mounting thru bolt forward and outboard and one inner and to the rear making it slightly angled and not 'square'with the box, but then the box isn't square either. Push it as far forward as it will go leaving you some space to the rear (you might want to put excess cable in that space). Pick a hole in the housing, measure the coresponding position on the outside of the box being careful to note that there maybe some thicker parts of the box moulding. In the thick or thin part, doesn't matter, just not right on the edge (like my first hole was), close your eyes and drill. Use a screw bolt from the inside out rather than a hex bolt as the head might be too big to let the radio slide in easily later. Tighten the mounting housing down with a tru bolt and nut making sure that the housing isn't tweeked in the process.
Do the same in the rear. Do a test fit with the stereo. You might have to file the screw bolt head down a bit to give the stereo a slip fit. Now you're going to need some holes in the lower forward edge of the box for:
1. antenna lead (bulky fitting, probably 3/8")
2. speaker leads
3. electrical leads
4. remote leads. I'm using a black marine Sony XM-10 wired remote from Crutchfields (dented and scratched for $130 saving $20 and found that it was neither) mounted on a Roady XM radio holder from Cycle Gadgets. Sony has another wired remote that is cheaper and is just a complicated knob. You might want to hold off on the remote purchase. I haven't mounted it yet (but will) and find that it is quite easy to control the volume and push the pre-set buttons on the radio while driving if you don't mind driving with the lockable door open.
Put the box back on the fairing and put the fairing back in place. Jiggle, wiggle, whatever is needed to get it back on. The bottom goes inside the lower black fairing first, then the screws in the mirror housing area, then the bolts in the hump area.
Put the fairing shroud back making sure it slides up and inside the inner box lip.
MAKE SURE THAT YOU DON'T HAVE ANY EXTRA HARWARE LEFT OVER!
Try to slip the radio into it's mounting bracket in the box. You might have to use a Dremel to cut a relief in the inner box lip for the corner of the stereo to slip in free.
Show the wife the result of your handywork.
Where to mount the antenna? I got simple antenna from Radio Shack with a spring at the base and mounted it forward of the mirror housing and angled back with the same rake as the windscreen. I have visions of having a CB in the future and ordered an antenna and mount with a CB/FM splitter from Firestik.com. They talked me into a 3 footer and mount for a non-ground plan vehicles which, when it came, is way too long. I'll stick with my Radio Shack one and order a 2 footer when it's CB time. Drilling that mounting hole in my beautiful new fairing was hard so you might want to consider other possibilities such as a license plate mount.
Take your speakers and tach/speedo housing to a stereo shop (it's OK to drive the ST without it in place) and have them do the wiring connections to the STs electrical system. Make sure everything works with the key in the ON and also in the ACC position. If you are in the San Diego area, I went to Diamond Services, 6670 Miramar Rd., 858 453-7787. They did it all for $90. If you are putting in a XM (or Sirus) radio, they come with a power cord with a cigarette lighter end that steps the 12 volts down to 6 volts. Cycle Gadgets has a cable for $40 that does the same thing, but I just got a cigarette lighter holder from Radio Shack and had Diamond Services wire it into the mix. It works fine. It may seem like a cobbled up connection, but it's hidden so who's to know. The purists would go with the Gadget's cable.
Ah, gentle reader you say, what about these speakers that have magically appeared in the tach/speedo housing? Read the final thread and all will be revealed.