Replacing Brake Pads

[Clark]

Does anyone have experience replacing the front brake pads?

I've worked on disk brakes on cars and bikes for years and they've all attached in at least a similar fashion. Loosen one bolt, swing the caliper out of the way, replace the pads, swing it back into place, replace bolt and you're on your way. (or at least something along those lines)

When I looked at the ST13's calipers it wasn't *obvious* to me how to get at the pads. Anyone worked on these? Anyone have a good online reference diagram? Does the combination of functions in the left caliper make this a difficult process?

Thanks for any feedback.

Clark

[Clark]

Paul,

Thanks. I saw the pin. I guess I was just assuming it would be more complicated given all the stuff going on with the front brakes on this bike.

Thanks again,

Clark

[crazykz]

I was going to have the shop do mine and boy am I glad I didn't. I set aside the whole evening to do mine. I had all three sets down in 30 minutes the very first time.

Easy job. Remove pin, slide back of pad down and out. Insert new pad in at an angle then slide them up so they catch in the front. Then slide the pin back in and tighten. DONE!

Curt

[dond]

30k miles and they were DONE! I repaced the next set at 28K, they had a bit left but I did not want to fry the rotors (like I almoST did). In between (for about 10K) I tried some Galfer blacks but they were $hit.
OEM all the way!!

[Clark]

30k miles and they were DONE! I repaced the next set at 28K, they had a bit left but I did not want to fry the rotors (like I almoST did). In between (for about 10K) I tried some Galfer blacks but they were $hit.
OEM all the way!!
Don,

Not that it matters for you now, but the stock pads are sintered. That pad material provides outstanding stopping characteristics. According to Galfer, their blacks aren't sintered, they're organic. I would expect degraded stopping power going from sintered to organic. A more equivalent replacement from Galfer would be their HH rated pads.

I don't use OEM because of fade problems under repeated hard braking, but I haven't used Galfer (yet) and I'm not trying to change your mind.;) The ST's brakes are outstanding as they come from the factory. I've just found on a few occasions I have ridden past their limits, so I went to something else.

Clark

[dond]

Clark, whatever the comp. the black felt the same as OEM and I was very happy with them. The problem was after about 8K they started leaving pad material on the rotors. Pulsing like a badly warped rotor at slower speeds. Galfer says to clean the rotors with ScotchBrite often as needed. Nah.

Thanks for the info.

[crazykz]

I got around 20K on the rear pads but I am way too hard on the rear brake. I'm correcting that this time around. The fronts probably would have lasted 30K but I wanted to replace them all at once because I'm too lazy to keep track of two change intervals.

Curt

[WarER4X]

I'm just past 18K miles and my rear pads are done. My fronts aren't far behind. I will be installing the EBC H-H sintered pads this afternoon. They are supposed to be some really good, grabby brakes from everything I've read, but I'll find out for myself soon enough. I actually had no beefs about the OEM pads except that they seemed to take a second to grab in wet conditions (maybe because of surface rust build-up on the rotors, but I'm not sure). The local dealer didn't have any OEMs in stock (go figure) and I had a choice between the EBCs and the Vesrahs. I don't think the Vesrah pads are sintered. I'm looking forward to trying out the EBC pads. I'll let you know if I feel.

-SR-

[WarER4X]

The new EBC H-H pads feel good so far. I've only got about 15 miles on them so far, so they obiously have a little more seating to do, but they already feel more grabby than the stock pads. They don't feel too harsh, though. They seem to provide a smooth progress between light and hard braking. No trouble two-finger braking with these puppies, that's for sure.

-SR-

[Horst]

I just did mine last w/e ... EBC HH as you have, now they have seated properly and feel awesome. I was told the 20/20 rule for break-in: 20 stops from 20mph ... then easy for awhile.

I think these will be as good or better than OEM ... :) :eek: :)

[crazykz]

That's great if they stop better but I'm worried about being to hard on the rotors. I went through a rotor on a wing because I think I was using too hard of a pad. We'll see I guess.

Curt

[WarER4X]

That is definitely something to avoid since the front rotors on the ST1300 go for about $245 each and the rear is nearly $200. Still, it is important to remember that pad grippiness and pad hardness are not necessarily synonimous. Now hardness and longevity may be linked, on the other hand. Also, a grippier pad may increase your chances of warping the rotor from heat, but only if you tend to use it for harder stopping on a more regular basis than stock pads.

-SR-

[vfourlife]

Are all 3 sets of pads the same part#?

[billxp]

Are all 3 sets of pads the same part#?
Not the OEM Pads

Fronts 06455-MCS-G01

Rears 06435-MCS-G01

The rear pads are actually thicker from the factory than the front pads.

[Scaredy Cat]

Same part number front and rear for EBC HH's.
They are the best pads I have ever tried - I have also heard good things about Carbone Lorraine, but I dunno if they do ST.
EBC HH rock - they're sintered, and make the nice "Tzzzzzz" noise that I like so I know I'm slowing down..... :D

[nybryan]

with ebc brake pads are the same number all around. With honda the rear has a different number. I found the rear pad wore first at 15k it was fried and the front had not enough left to keep. Hondas have a bit more rear brake material then the ebc. I noticed the ebc is the same part number as the 1800 wing. I'm wondering if you can fit an 1800 wing rear pad in the rear caliper as it is twice as thick as the front. I'm someone tries this successfully please let me know. Also, with my 1800 i found the ebc gave great grip in the dry but totally sucked in the wet. It would take an extra second or two to dry the pads which causes the brakes to almost fade in. Annoying to say the least dangerious to say the most. I'm sticking with honda for now
bryan

[coldoughboy]

My dealer just replaced my back brake pads (without asking) at 14,000. The front has a way's to go.

[Britman]

http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-Safety/braking-tips.htm

[Rob Hephner]

Also, a grippier pad may increase your chances of warping the rotor from heat, but only if you tend to use it for harder stopping on a more regular basis than stock pads.


Warped rotors huh?

Ever seen one......I haven't.....

Take A Read! (http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml#)

[carpevita]

Hey all,

Im replacing the rear pads and removing the wheel to get a new tire and rotor..So far so good but I have some questions for the gurus..Some questions may seem silly but plz remember, Im new at this stuff.

1. The muffler bolts have a white residue on them..Is that locktite and if so, should I apply some when reattaching the muffler? I bought a tube of the blue for teh caliper pin...

2. The Caliper stopper blot had Green residue on the treads (refer to 1).

3. Should I put locktite on the axle bolt?

4. Do you use an 8mm allen wrench or hex bolt when tightening the axle bolt.

Grease Question...

I dont own any grease at all (1st project so)

1. Is it ok to add a little grease to every bolt to help reassembling?

2. Does it matter what type of general purpose grease I buy?

3. Only apply the moly to the splines? Not the surrounding area of the drive like the pulse ring?

A little long I know but I really appreciate any help.....Thanks...

BOY THIS IS FUN!!!;)

[racer1735]

Hey all,

1. The muffler bolts have a white residue on them..Is that locktite and if so, should I apply some when reattaching the muffler? I bought a tube of the blue for teh caliper pin...

3. Should I put locktite on the axle bolt?

4. Do you use an 8mm allen wrench or hex bolt when tightening the axle bolt.

Grease Question...

1. Is it ok to add a little grease to every bolt to help reassembling?

2. Does it matter what type of general purpose grease I buy?



I'll try to answer a few of your inquiries, in order:

1 - The white residue is a chemical reaction between the metals in the bolt and the bracket. Nothing is wrong and its not 'old' loctite.

3- You can put some blue loctite on if you'd like, but its not necessary if you do the right thing and properly torque the axle bolt. This bolt is torqued to a pretty high standard to prevent it from coming loose.

4- I use an allen socket that I put in my socket wrench. You can get a decent set for not too much $$ from Craftsman, and they are easier to use than regular allen wrenches.

Grease questions:

1- DO NOT put grease on bolts as an assembly lube. This will change your torque factors, and loctite will not adhere to grease.

2- Any decent GP lube will work so long as its waterproof, and you don't need to use hi-temp (wheel bearing) grease where a GP lube is recommended. Bel-Ray makes a good general purpose grease.

[carpevita]

I'll try to answer a few of your inquiries, in order:

1 - The white residue is a chemical reaction between the metals in the bolt and the bracket. Nothing is wrong and its not 'old' loctite.

3- You can put some blue loctite on if you'd like, but its not necessary if you do the right thing and properly torque the axle bolt. This bolt is torqued to a pretty high standard to prevent it from coming loose.

4- I use an allen socket that I put in my socket wrench. You can get a decent set for not too much $$ from Craftsman, and they are easier to use than regular allen wrenches.

Grease questions:

1- DO NOT put grease on bolts as an assembly lube. This will change your torque factors, and loctite will not adhere to grease.

2- Any decent GP lube will work so long as its waterproof, and you don't need to use hi-temp (wheel bearing) grease where a GP lube is recommended. Bel-Ray makes a good general purpose grease.


Thanks for your help!

About the grease,
I should have been clearer. When reassembling, I thought I read about dabbing some grease to the axle shaft and bolt shafts but not the threads..
Should I do that or leave them completely dry? Thanks Dan

[carpevita]

Thanks...Dan

One more question,

What is silicone grease? I read about using it on the caliper pins...I pulled the caliper apart from its mount and the pins where there ready to be lubed..Where do I get silicone grease? Thanks

[racer1735]

You can use wheel bearing (hi-temp) grease for the axle shaft. It's just to keep corrosion to a minimum on the shaft itself and needs a grease that won't run when it gets hot.

[carpevita]

WHOOOOAAA!

Did I have a scare...

Reassembling the caliper I put a little blue loctite on the caliper pin. When I tried to unscrew it, whoa! Thought I was gonna strip the hex pattern in the pin..Scary.

[UNTMatt]

Are you talking disassembly of the calipers and cleaning/lube/reassembly? Once a year?