Motomac's trip

[motomac]

There were several folks that asked me to keep them updated on my trip to Alaska and back, so as long as my Motorola Q will allow me to post, I'll update this thread daily. I can't post pictures from the phone, but I will take many and post them to a ride report when I return home. I plan to leave May 28, 2008 and have no rigid travel itinerary. I will avoid as many slabs as possible. The KLR is not really good at slabbing. My goals are to see Yellowknife NWT, Inuvik NWT(again), Deadhorse Alaska, do the Denali and Cassiar Highways, and be in Dawson City June 19, 20 for the D2D solstice party with the ADV Riders. Those are not necessarilly in order of when they are going to occur, but just a general idea of what I want to accomplish during this trip. Please don't post long threads to this as I don't have a big screen on my phone to read a bunch of stuff and the keys on the phone only allow me to use one fingernail to type. Thanks, Mac :tent6:

[motomac]

Well, I left home at about 7:00 AM with temp of 48. Very clear sky and a lot sun. Electrics kept me toasty and got 222 miles before
I hit reserve. Filled up at 228 and rolled on west on US 30. 2nd tank never hit reserve, I filled up in Mendota IL with 239 on the odometer. Needless to say I have been enjoying a strong east wind most of the day. I am in Amboy right now enjoying a meatball sub at Subway. I still have a lot daylight left and will probably burn this tank of gas and call it a day. Presently heading west on US 52.

[motomac]

Just when I was about to give and get a motel for the night this little camp ground sign popped up and I'm the only sole in it and it's $10 for the night with elec and shower. Iam in Guttengberg IA. I didn't get all the gas burned out of the 3rd tank, but did get another 163 miles in before pulling off for the day. 610 miles By GPS. I really lost a lot time taking US 30 through the South part of Chicago. This US 52 through IA has shown me some beautiful country. I'm puttin' to bed. More tomorrow. Mac

[motomac]

Broke camp and got on the road at 6:30 local in low 50's and very cloudy. Started to rain in 10 miles and hasn't stopped all morning. I stopped for breakfast in Byron MN and the girl said I will have rain and south winds all the way to SD.

[motomac]

Well the girl was right, I had wind and rain ALL day and when the lighning started south of Fargo, I pulled into the Motel 6. Total miles 1154. It looks to be another wet day tomorrow. I really wanted to get as far north as US 2 before calling it a day. The wind was mostly from the SW, so I continue to get my money's worth at the gas pump. The last tank was ethanol and I won't do that again. The bike runs fine at highway speeds, but when I slow down in towns it has a hesitation that I don't get on regular gas. That's it for today. Mac

[motomac]

Gene brought to my attention in a PM that I didn't post my route yesterday. US 52 to US 14 to US 75. I'll continue on US 75 to US 2 today. I'll be on that all day today. Eventually I'll hit I 15 to the Canadian border.

[motomac]

Well folks my phone doesn't work in this part of Canada. I am using a computer in a library in Borden SK. Yesterday I left Fargo and headed north on US 75 to US 2 and ran into more rain and had rain off and on to Rugby ND. The sun finally broke through west of Rugby and my GPS was screaming at me to go west on US 52, so I did. I entered in to Canada at Portal ND and continued north on 39. I saw a huge thunderstorm ahead and miraculously I split the worst of the storm, but did hit a wall of water for about 4 miles. After coming out of the rain the wind shifted from the west and at times I thought I was going to get blown over. A bit scary. Spent the night in a little campground in Lumsden SK. I got on the road about 6:00 AM local and am headed for Valleyview AB. Mac

[motomac]

To quote Tom, Unbelievable!!! I am on my phone again in Valleyview AB. I did not expect to have a signal let alone internet access. After leaving the library in Borden SK, I continued west on TC 16 through Edmonton ( no I didn't stop at the Mall) and hit 43 and stayed on it to Valleyview. Tomorrow it north to Yellowknife NWT. I don't want to jinx anything, but the KLR is doing great. The Metzler Tourances have been superb in the rain and the little gravel I've encountered. Thev GPD reads 2443 miles. Not bad for running 60-65. Hope to make Yellowknife tomorrow. Mac

[motomac]

I woke to the sound of sprinkling rain drops on my tent fly. It was just enough to wet everything and make breaking camp yucky. Overcast and cool as I get ready to head north to Yellowknife. I will amazed if I can post from there. Had a mosquito share my coffee this morning. It was too strong for him and he drowned in my cup!!! Mac

[motomac]

Well, I'm baaaack up! This post will cover June 1.

It started out cool and overcast as I went up 49. Saw 4 bear,2 eagles, many deer, 2 sand hill cranes, 1 coyote and a bunch buffalo.

My route was 49, 35, 1, and 3. 1 runs through the Wood River Bison Preserve so there many small herds along the road. When I rolled into the campground the GPS total was 3,187 for a 744 miles for the day. The campground was nice, but had no showers.

I started getting gas when I could after I hit 100 on the trip odometer. I passed a small cruddy gas stop just before the ferry at the McKenzie River thinking there would be another on the other side of the river. Wrong!!! I had filled my spare gal container at the stop before so I'm feeling confident I'm good to the next stop. I dropped my speed to 55 and started to get a bad feeling that I was not going to see another gas stop before Yellowknife.

GPS said the closest one was the one I was 100 miles ahead of. I went on reserve at 231 miles and still had over 100 miles to go to Yellowknife. Reserve was done at 254. I put my little gallon container in the tank and kept on going at 50 MPH. I finally see a sign for gas in a little town 10K off 3. I'm thinking it is after 6 on a Sunday. If it's not open I pitch my tent at the pump. Well of course it was open.

It took $31 .62 to fill the tank and gal cont. $1.59.9 a liter!!! I continued on into Yellowknife.

That's it for today. Mac

[motomac]

After a very frustrating morning, I left Yellowknife about 9. Noothing opens until 10 and I knew with the 400 miles of gravel ahead of me I needed to get moving. I had wanted to get to a computer and post the previous day, but the campground lady couldn't let me use her and the library didn't open til 10. So back down 3 to 1 west. This time I only got stopped once by one of the bison herds. 2 bulls were really having at on the right side of the road and carried it into the road and then to the left and back across to the right side. I was stopped far enough away to turn and run if I had to. The rest of the herd was watching and staying off from the battlers, but taking up the highway and both sides of the cleared areas. After a few minutes the road opened up I got by. I was thinking how big those animals are and one of the little calves could take me out. So as I start west on 3 towards 7 there is sign that says 7 is closed to trucks and heavy traffic. No problem, right? WRONG again, Road Closed reads the hand painted sign at 7. And the gas station is closed and it is 150 miles back on the dirt road I had just ridden to Rooster, the place I mistakenly passed yesterday. Sign just past the intersection says gas in Ft. Simpson 30 miles away. I head farther west and see a highway crew and stop to ask about the road and the gas. Yup a motorcycle can go down 7 all the way to 97. Yup theres gas in Ft Simpson. They didna.t tell me about th ferry ride to get across the Liard River. So I'm now gassed and heading down 7 after viewing some pictures of why the road is closed. There was one of a big rig buried to its under carriage on the trailer and one of a dirt compacting machine also buried in mud. There is no traffic behind me or coming at me for miles. Then a construction crew and 2 more headed north. Then it's me the dirt and gravel and numerous black bears. Then I get to the area shown in the pictures. I certainly am glad I raced on dirt back in the day. I came close to losing it twice in the more tha 50 miles of this loose deep sand and gravel they had put down to repair the road. I did have to dab a foot once and immediately ran over it with my saddle bag and twisted my ankle. I finally arrived at Ft Liard about 10 PM local. Camp ground was free but no shower. Left Ft Liard after gassing up and headed for 97. When I got to 97 I was bit shocked that I was west of Ft Nelson. I needed to take the rest of the day off and do laundry and get to a post office. So I looked at my map and decided to go east instead making over 200 miles to Watson Lake. So here am lounging in the laundramat at my 2nd motel stay. So the GPS shows a total of 3929 for a very short day. Saw at least 4 bears and and a few bison.

[motomac]

I am now in Whitehorse the capitol of Yukon Territory. There are a total of 4,526 miles on the GPS and a 597 mile day. I met Yukon Larry from the ADV riders board as I pulled into the Pizza Hut for supper. The day was pretty much uneventful as I have traveled the road so many times it has not changed much. It is a shame to see so many of the businesses that have closed since Gail and I were up in '05. I saw a lot of bears as I was leaving Ft Nelson and finally saw some moose. No bulls, but several cows and last years calves. My route today was basically the Alaska Highway, route 97 in BC and route 1 in YT. Tomorrow I'll head to Dawson City on 2 and probably hang there for the day and head up the Dempster Friday. I don't think the temperature ever got above 50 today. Mac

I forgot to say I was posting this from the campground computer. Phone doesn't work here. I probably will not have that luxury in Dawson City. They may have a library though.

[motomac]

I am now in Dawson City YT. I wrote down the mileage for the day and promply forgot it on the way to the library. It was about 360. Just a run across the AK hwy to 2 north to Dawson City. I will back track about 24 miles in the morning and head up the Dempster Highway YT 5 and NWT 8. The weather has been absolutely delightful and I hope it continues for the next two days. So until I get to another Library that's about it. Dawson City is kept in the old gold rush days authenticity and is a neat stop if you ever get up this way. Mac

[motomac]

I'm fine everyone. I got caught at the ferry across the McKenzie River and it had been shut down for over 2 hours, so I turned around and went back to Ft McPhearson for the night. I was a tired puppy after 401 miles of dirt and gravel and knew the library would be closed when I got here. The Dempster Hgihway has changed a lot since I was up here in '99. It is much wider in most areas, but the wind on the ridge of the Ogilvie Mountains is still just as strong. Think about leaning against a strong wind from the right and still leaning right when you turn to the left!!! I had good weather the whole run and thinmk it is the high 60's or low 70's here in Inuvik. I will go thruogh posts on the board and then head back dwon the Dempster. Mac

[motomac]

I'm back in Dawson City. I will post more after I get a camp site and a shower!!! Mac
OK, the weather has been extraordinarily great. I had no rain to speak of except a few little dribbles yesterday, just to smear the dust on my face shield and make visibility tough. I spent the night at Engineer's Creek camp ground. I could have made it to Dawson City, but it would have been after midnight and nothing would have been open including the shower. i filled my gas tank at Eagle Plains and made it all the way to DC 252 miles. $33.50 and 20+ liters to fill up. On the way down I saw what I am sure was a grizzly bear, but again he was very shy and I did not even get stopped to get the camera out of the tank bag before he was a figment of my imagination. Tomorrow I will board the ferry here in Dawson City and cross the Yukon River, and head for Alaska. I am posting this from the NWT information center. Library is closed for the day. Mac

One more thing to note. I got to Eagle Plains on the way up and noticed when I went to pay for my gas my left lens was missing from my glasses. After searching around where I took off my helmet and not finding it, continued on. I got back to Eagle Plains and filled up my tank and the kid at the pumps said no noone had found it. I got back to the campground this morning and the little French girl who works at the counter said "did you get your lens for your glasses?" I asked her how she knew about it and she said it was found at my camp site after I had left. So I went into the office and got my lens and replaced it, and I can see clearly now!!!

[motomac]

I am now in Palmer AK. I needed a new rear tire and PMed one of the ADV riders that has a repair shop and he had the tire I wanted so I have that done and changed my oil and I'm now at Kent S's cousin's home. The ride down the Top of the World Highway was absolutely wonderful. This is the first time I've ridden in AK that it hasn't rained at least most of the day if not all day. Not a drop and a lot of sunshine. I intend to go to Valdez tomorrow and then start the journey up to Fairbanks and hit the Dalton Highway for Deadhorsse. The routes I took today were 9 to 2 (AK Hwy) to the Tok Cutoff to Richardson Hwy to Glenn Hwy.
I have 6,396 miles on the GPS and a 528 mile day today. Mac

[motomac]

Back in Palmer. I went down towards Valdez to the Worthington Glacier. That was east on the Glenn and south on the Richardson and reverse to come back to Palmer. When Gail and I did this road it was in July and rained the whole trip, but the snow on the mountains was much less than today and the waterfalls on these same mountains were spectacular. Today there were very few waterfalls visible because the snow was hiding them. The snow also made seeing all the glaciers harder to see. There is no mistaking a glacier when the mountains are snow free, but now it was almost a blah run. I did get a couple of shots of the Worthington Glacier so the day wasn't a throw away. 6864 on the GPS for a 468 mile day. Gas was $4.56 at Glennallen on the way down and $4.66 on the way back. In Palmer it was $4.17 in the morning and $4.26 when I returned!!! Mac

[motomac]

I stayed with Kent's cousin and mowed grass, repaired a glider on a swing set and got a tour of the Matanuska/Susitna Valley area. I had stayed in this area for a couple of weeks when I was up here in '95, but got a native's view and narrative of the area. No miles on the KLR today, but I did get my laundry done for a couple of chores. Will probably stay one more day and then move North. Mac

[motomac]

I went up to Hatcher Pass this morning, but the clouds on the mountain were so bad that I could barely see the road and guard rails, so I turned around at Independence Mine and came back down. 40 miles total for the day, but I head north tomorrow and the tale may be a bit better at days end. Mac

[motomac]

I'm in Delta Junction. It has been quite a day. The clouds were off the mountains in Palmer, so I tried Hatcher Pass again. When I could finally see everything, the gate was closed and locked to the Pass. No big deal, just 20 miles out and back, so 40 miles expended and I'm back in Palmer. The wind was bad going north on Parks Highway and the bike went on reserve at 177 miles. Oh oh, I don't have but about a quart or so spare gas aboard. The next gas is over 50 miles away, so I slow to 50 and start praying. After 36 miles on reserve the engine dies and I coast to a stop and put in what was in the little can on the back. To be sure I shook every last drop out of it. Phew, 5 miles to go, I can walk to the place nowif I have to.(I didn't walk) Filled the tank and the can and headed for Denali Highway. Lots of great views, but the road was rough and it rained midway across and got verrrrrrry slick. Nope I didn't lose it but I slowed to less than 20. The rain lasted about 10 miles but the road was slippery much farther along after the rain stopped. When there was gravel present I could speed up, but when it was bare dirt, uh uh!!! So tomorrow I'll spend the day in the Fairbanks area. Mac 7341 on the GPS, 435 for the day and the bike odo went over 10K 165 miles ago!

[motomac]

I left Delta Junction about 7 and took 2 to Badger Rd in North Pole. Got here at about 8:30 and set up camp at Riverview where I have stayed all 4 trips up here. It is a very nice place for RV's and tents. My Gerbing's controller is acting a bit funny so I went to the multi dealer here to see if I could replace it and no luck. If it quits on me and it gets too cold, I may not make it to Deadhorse. I went to Pioneer Park and Santa Claus Villiage and then chilled at the camp site. Couple from OK came in on a Harley trike pulling an Aspen camper. I doubt I'll be able to update tomorrow, will when I return. Gps only recorded 132 miles today, total 7473. Mac

[Mellow]

Mac left me a voicemail. He made it to Deadhorse and is now heading back to Fairbanks.

[motomac]

As Joe said, I made it to Deadhorse. I left Fairbanks at 5 and was in Deadhorse at 4:45 in the PM. My starter developed some kind of short so I couldn't turn off the ignition or I had to push start it. I saw several moose on the way north out of Fairbanks . About 80 miles south of Deadhorse, a huge storm cell was forming to the west. The wind was blowing from the east and started shifting from the north as I finally got passed the front. I had to stop for a herd of caribou to cross the road about this time, so the front acually got closer. I had beautiful clear sunny skies everywhere except to my left. The wind shifted from the SW at about 30 miles to go. I was going mostly 55, so I figured I'd beat to Deadhorse and I did. It started blowing and raining as I hung up the gas nozzle. I got some stickers and souveneirs and called Gail and Joe. The front had passed over, so I decided to head back to Fairbanks. It started a drizzly rain about and continued all the way to Atigun Pass. No rain on the pass coming or going. But let tell you, the dirt most the Dalton is made of turns greasy cat slobber and I couldn't too fast most of the time. The rain wouldn't clear off my face shield, so I was swiping it with my glove every 30 seconds. I saw my first musk ox in the wild just as the rain started. I got to the camp ground i Coldfoot just before 12 and slept for 5 hours. I pulled back into Riverview just at 11:30. Had 8224 on the GPS last night for 751 miles yesterday and 8497 when I pulled in this morning. It rained most of the way back to Fairbanks. The Dalton Highway is a piece of cake compared to the Dempster and one could easily do an SS 1000 to Deadhorse and back if it didn't rain. Lots of paved portions and lots of real smooth dirt that if not wet you can run as fast as you dare. There are critters that don't rules of the road up here. Mac

[motomac]

Well, pretty uneventful day folks. I took off my gas tank and sorted through all the wires for my starter and could not find an open. I turned the key on and pressed the start button and it started. So I put it all back together and started it a few times with no trouble. The day before I left for the Dalton, I stopped at a church youth group car wash and had them hose the big chunks off the bike. It may have been just some water where it shouldn't have been. Time will tell. Suited up and went to breakfast and then to the University of Alaska Museum. If you are ever in Fairbanks, put this on your must see list. I wish I had taken Gail to it while we were here in '05. Well worth the $10 entry fee. About 30 miles for the day. I will start heading for Dawson City in the morning. May go all the way there tomorro. I will stop in Tok for a bit and depending on when I get there will make the decision to make it to Dawson City or even Chicken. Mac 7341

[motomac]

I left North Pole about 6 and headed east toward Tok. Gassed up in Delta Junction and got passed by a bunch of BMW riders with foreign tags. About 10 miles from Tok two of them stopped and looked like may have trouble so I pulled up in front of them. The guy on the F800 had run out of gas. I broke out my trusty dusty gallon gas can and made a young German kid a hppy motorcyclist. They made sure I was going to stop in Tok so they could refill my can. After having a meal in Fas Eddie's I headed up the Top of the World for Chicken for a sticker and a hat for my neighbor. It started to rain and continued to rain within 15 miles of Dawson City. Nasty in some areas of the dirt road, but I'm in Dawson City safe and sound with a bunch of guys that are gathering for the Dust 2 Dawson solstice. Mac

[motomac]

I'm alive and well in Prince George BC. I'll catch ya'll up later today. I'm on the way home now. Mac

[motomac]

This an abbreviated version of the last 3 days. I left Dawson City at 0730 and went east on 2. I turned on 1 just west of Whitehorse, gassed up in WH and the rain started. It stopped raing just before Watson Lake and I stopped for gas and got a tent site at the juntion of 1 and 37. I set up camp as a huge thuder head was moving from the south right at the camp. I no sooner got my sleeping bag in the tent than wind and rains came. I had been up until 0100 the night before for the Solstice celebration with the ADV Riders, so I was due for a nap. I woke up and the storm had passed, so I got up and had supper. Went back to bed and at 0004 something bumping my tent woke me. As I was still half asleep something slammed my tent just above my head and I yelled very loudly. I unzipped out of the sleepimg bag and opened the tent fly and door and saw nothing. Whatever it was( I think a young black bear) was gone. Needless to say sleep was very light the rest of the night. 9500 on GPS 590 for the day.

Sunday morning I broke camp in the rain and headed south on the Cassiar Highway(37) in a heavy rain. The clouds obscured what were probably spectacular views. I got to Deese Lake gassed up and took a hot shower and dried my clothes. Headed south for 100 miles before it quit raining. I took 37A to Stewart for gas and what a great road. This more than made up for the miserable morning. I backtracked to 37 and stopped in Kitwanga for the night. 10,035 on 475 GPS for day. Considering all the gravel and mud not too bad a day.

Left Kitwanga at 0530 and headed south on 37 to 16. Not one stinking pebble of gravel all day!!! Stayed on 16 and went through the Jasper area. WOW!!! Gorgeous. Glaciers, waterfalls, and beautiful scenery for miles. Saw mountain sheep, elk, one brownish looking bear, coyote, deer, and foxes. I am now in Edson Alberta with a chain that may have to be replaced before I get home. 10,678 on GPS 641 for day. Mac

[motomac]

I forgot to document the damage to my tent. One 7" cut in the fly and a couple small cuts where the fly rested on the tent pole and a 3" rip to the netting of the tent. The pole withstood the blow. Mac

[motomac]

I left Edson at 7:00 and headed east on 16 to Edmonton. As I was entering Stony Ridge I saw a Honda/Yamaha dealer and got a new chain installed. The rest of the day was 65 MPH heading SE on 16 to 11. Spent the night in Lumsden in the same campground I was in on the way north. 11,272 miles on GPS 594 for day. Mac

[motomac]

I left camp at 0515 and headed south to Regina. Took the Ring Rd around to 6 south to 39 to the US border. At the border 39 became US 52. I'm still on that in Fargo. I gassed up in Bowbells ND and 10.7 miles later my new chain parted and I coasted to a stop. Middle of nowhere!!! I called one of my GW buddies and he gave me numbers for a Honda shop in Minot (rhymes with why not) and they gave me the number to the Kawisaki shop. I told them my problem and they said they would get back to me. I walked back to where the chain let loose and found it. The master link was no longer part of the chain, so I called the shop back and told them I just need a master link. About an hour later the 69 yr old owner rode up on his EX 650 with the required link, escorted me to his shop, had a new DID O-ring chain and new front sprocket installed and charged for the parts only. No charge for labor, no charge for the master link or delivery of link. If you ever go to Minot, stop at Action Cycles and say hello to Bob and his crew. I am in Fargo and will be slabbing home. This is my last post to this thread. I hope ya'll enjoyed the ride. I will post pictures when I get to the home-20. 11,880 GPS 608 for the day. 608 is not too bad considering all the time lost on the chain!!! Have about 1,000 miles left and not sure the KLR is able to do a SaddleSore or not. Mac