Fuel Regulator fitting - my experience

[nisbeam]

Not quite sure where this thread should go - Farkles, Technical, General, Group Buys ? So admin please feel free to move.
Anyway, easy to fit, great mod, subtle difference but it's "there all the time", I think well worth it - thanks Tom.
I found the following:
1. Website .pdf file excellent as the pictures tell it all - they are missing in the printed copy that comes with the valve. Look at the .pdf - it really helps.
2. Using an impact driver . Wow - was it necessary !! who does these screws up ? Godzilla ? In fact I still rounded one out. I had to remove the tank tie strap & lift the tank even higher so I could get a really good swing. Then whack the impact driver hard to get the last one out. Whew - it worked luckily, I was beginning to worry a bit. Had to re-assemble without waiting for a replacement, so located the damaged screw in an easily accessable position. Shouldnt be a problem in future anyway as I didn't do them up with a jack-hammer.
3. I had 3 blocks showing on my petrol guage, and fuel squirted out of the feed pipe when I removed it from the valve - and when I connected back to the new one. There was not much fuel leakage as I was very quick to get my finger over the end, but some spilled. I was not worried at the time. However, despite being careful to check the new valve was not leaking, this cause a strong smell of petrol when the engine warmed up. This caused me to worry un-necessarily, I didnt have a leak but it smelt like it at first. Took a few days & a few hundred miles to clear, so dont panic if you do the same & suspect a leak.
Good luck with fitting the mod guys. It's fairly straight forward, and great to know that you have done a good job yourself. :03biker:

[turbocity tom]

This might be a good thread to post results from any of the new installers that want to share their results with the board.

Glad your install went good. The TBI adapter screws are the worst part of the install, and it really helps to have the upper (main) fuel tank empty.

Thanks Tom

[Mellow]

Since this is an ST1300 only item, I've moved it to the ST1300 tech area.

I think that makes sense.. It might also be moved to the Knowledge base so .. let me know how that sounds as well...

I'm open..

[nm6r]

I installed my fuel pressure regulator yesterday. It took one hour. No impact driver required.

A local rider came over today and we installed his fuel pressure regulator. It took 3 hours. 1 hour for the actual installation and 2 hours to BS. 4 screws came right out and 4 needed the assistance of the impact driver.

I went out to run a couple errands this afternoon. After 30 miles I found the on/off throttle abruptness to be minimal and there seems to be more lower rpm roll on power. I even tried going below 2k rpm in 5th gear and opening the throttle with no clutching. Not one cough or hesitation. That wasn't possible before. I couldn't find the infamous flat spot in the short test ride. Now I have to get out of the habit of clutching so much as that was my way of smoothing things out.

I'm hesitant to lower the idle speed for electrical reasons. The charging voltage drops when below 1k rpm. I imagine that wouldn't normally be an issue but there would be times (heated clothing, heated grips, lights, etc.) that may be an issue in stop & go traffic for example.

Ray
http://www.frontiernet.net/~st1300rider/smile04Bikerwheelie.gif

[STPilot]

Yes, I like it. NM6R helped me install the FPR today, acutally he did all the work and I did all the BS-ing. The bike didn't seem to want to go home, so I got lost on some back roads. 116 miles later, I finally found my driveway. The first thing I noticed is the smoother idle, and a smoother but slightly quicker throttle response. I also let the rpm get way down in the taller gears to play with the response, it spools right up, right now! There is also a noticable decrease amount of the aprupt/jerkiness of before Nice job Tom. :hotpepper:D

Thanks again for the help Ray. :bow1:

[sttourer]

:biker:

OK, that did it. You guys convinced me. I just ordered mine!

Has anyone installed the tuned regulator for use with aftermarket exhausts?

Pat

[nm6r]

sttourer, my regulator was bumped up a bit for K&N air filter and Staintunes.

Just to reiterate, I like it!

Ray
http://www.frontiernet.net/~st1300rider/smile04Bikerwheelie.gif

[sttourer]

sttourer, my regulator was bumped up a bit for K&N air filter and Staintunes.

Just to reiterate, I like it!

Ray
http://www.frontiernet.net/~st1300rider/smile04Bikerwheelie.gif

Great! Thanks.

[gene]

Installed new regulator only took about an hour. Didn't need a impact driver screws came right out. My regulator had 60 scribed on it I assume it was set at 60 psi as I use a k+n filter. Stock regulator is set at 50 psi Tom gave me an increase in fuel by 20% to 60 psi no wonder bikes were running rough they were starving for fuel. Bike is quite smooth now and engine noise has decreased also . After a 10 mile ride I'm happy seems to be a good modification and worth the money. THANKS TOM for the group buy!!

[kg4gbt]

Got my installed yesterday. Everything went good except when I finishing up, remembered that I didnt re-connect the two large hoses to the bottom of the airbox :mad: :mad: :mad:

Had to take everything back off again, that sucked. Oh well, it was worth it, it runs better now. :biker: :biker:

[1999purple]

:03biker: Hi, I got my regulator today. Took about 1 1/2 hour to install.Will see how it works tomorrow. :D :03biker: I also did not need to use an inpact driver to remove the 8 screws that hold on the bottom of the air cleaner housing. Thanks to Turbo City for doing a great job .

[CrashTestDanny]

Yes, I like it. NM6R helped me install the FPR today, acutally he did all the work and I did all the BS-ing.

Hey NM6R - if you wanna come over to my place in Missouri, I'll let you install mine while I supply free beer :beer8: and BS :bsflag: ... I'll even give you a place to spend the night before you ride home! :)

Ok, well I thought not but had to try. But thanks for the feedback all of you - I'm convinced and I'm gonna buy one of these doohickeys!

Dan F
'05 ST1300 :biker:

[gene]

Tom the new regulator is great, but has there been any problems with hard starting after install when temps are in upper 90's. It seems to act like old carbs did when vapor locked. At start up it stumbles and sometimes dies then runs great.This has developed since temps increased into the 90's is this normal with injection at high temps as this is my first summer with ST

[Mellow]

Tom the new regulator is great, but has there been any problems with hard starting after install when temps are in upper 90's. It seems to act like old carbs did when vapor locked. At start up it stumbles and sometimes dies then runs great.This has developed since temps increased into the 90's is this normal with injection at high temps as this is my first summer with ST

That used to happen with my ST and I didn't have the regulator installed. A throttle body sync might help that more than anything... I know there are some threads on the subject but can't remember what they're under. Maybe a search on 'hard to start' or something like that.

[Austin city limits]

Put mine on today... The PICTURES on the www.turbocity.com site??? Worth 10,000 words!!! REALLY helped...

After hearing about others putting it back together without the filter in,,, and other goofs,,, I was REALLY trying not to screw up!!! I was tightening the last allen screw on the steering and then realized,,, that my tank,,, with the Motorcycle Larry pull back would not go down... DOOP!!! :o:

Have not rode it yet... But Install was fairly simple... AND,,, my screws were NOT,,, so tight and was able just to take them out normal...

(((I hear this is the leading indicator of the really FAST bikes))) :D

[turbocity tom]

Tom the new regulator is great, but has there been any problems with hard starting after install when temps are in upper 90's. It seems to act like old carbs did when vapor locked. At start up it stumbles and sometimes dies then runs great.This has developed since temps increased into the 90's is this normal with injection at high temps as this is my first summer with ST
Gene,
I think the problem with hot restart is the very high under tank heat soak into the fuel rails. When you try to restart there would be some vapor at the injectors. That would cause it to run funny for ashort time. Usually opening the throttle just a little while cranking helps.

Thanks Tom

[DesertFox]

The instructions he sent were quite good with pictures that helped the install go smooth..did it in about 1 1/2 hours...

And now you might be asking... How does this new 'thingy' work. In a word... GREAT!!

There were however other variables that enter into the equation...

New tires...front & rear.
Less weight...no saddle bags. Had them off anyway...
Ran EFI cleaner in this tank of gas.
Adjusted up the 'slop' in throttle cables.

I took my blue-bird out for my favorite 206 mi. ride over some fine back country roads over and around the
Blue Mtns. of Eastern OR. The first thing I noticed was throttle response was much smoother at 0-1/4 throttle openings. Low to midrange response seemed smoother and a bit more usable power. Coming down from speed was MUCH smoother without the abrupt hic-cupping I formally would experience when approaching a
stop from say 50 to 60mph. I would sometimes get an almost 'bucking' sensation that others have attributed to
the overly LEAN condition the ECM would be sending to the EFI. I think Turbo-Tom did a GREAT job in 'tweaking' the OEM fuel-press-reg. to deliver fuel at an appropriate rate that the engine can really use. I believe the OEM FPR is set at 50 PSI.. T-Tom increases that value to 55-60psi depending on how the bike is set up. I am running a K & N air filter so he set mine at 58 psi. He knows his stuff, as my engine seems to have 'come-alive'. Not a big power boost, but more a fine tuning that enables more accurate throttle response.

This is by far the BEST and easiest engine tweak I have ever done. Your results may vary, but I think you will
be pleased... Dave

[Tor]

I can beat this story.
I went in to sync. the throttle bodies and install a new air filter.
The sync. went well as did the re-installation of all the parts. As I was cleaning up the bench and was putting away the tools I picked up the air filter and noticed it was clean, much cleaner than the one sitting next to it.

Paul
roflmao,,,,MY BELLY HURTS......

[SteveST1300]

Thanks for the reports. I am still waiting for mine I am told 4-5 weeks. Man I hope it gets here before ConSTOC. :03biker:

[Kempo-STer]

Thanks for the reports. I am still waiting for mine I am told 4-5 weeks. Man I hope it gets here before ConSTOC. :03biker:


Hey Steve,
If it gets here before Constoc and you don't have a chance to put it in..Bring it with you and we'll throw it in while you're here..
No biggie.

[Rob Hephner]

I put mine on a while back, never thought to report.

Everything went fine and discovered that my rubber mat had been put in backwards by the dealer after my oil leak debacle.

The instructions and guide are perfect; this is a very easy install.

I changed only the regulator and nothing else. The off-throttle response problem is gone and the available torque at low RPM in second during turns is much, much better.

Top-end has not suffered and honestly you have to think about it to understand the changes made.

Good job, I would highly recommend this upgrade!

[turbocity tom]

It appears that there have been a couple of fuel tank hose coupler failures with the installation of the regulators. We are trying to identify what is causing it.

To everyone doing these installs, please be very careful when lifting the upper gas tank as to not stress the coupler hose. Do not remove the tank limit wire. Do not remove the fuel tank lower pinch bolt (rotate the tank on the bolt)

If anyone has any problems with the install please contact me directly.

Thanks Tom

[Mark]

.
.
.
the stinking red switch on the handlebar. :eek: :nuts1:
.

BTDT... not in the same case; but, it was still *mighty* disconcerting...

The brother-in-law (a Duc rider) borrowed an ST1100 for a full day of riding. As we are leaving lunch, he is the last one out of the parking area (with a large crowd of cruiser riders watching) and he can't get it started... the VTX guys let him know about the kickstand interlock... :-)

So don't feel alone!
Mark

[Highrider]

We installed the fuel regulators on 2 - ST1300's this past weekend.
Followed the instructions implicitly, and both were done in about 70 minutes with no problems, whatsoever.:) :)
I must say, the effect on the bike is great. Both bikes run much better, I can move away from a dead stop now without using the throttle or killing the engine. Couldn't do that before the new fuel regulator.

:p: :cool: :rolleyes: :biker:

[ccryder]

Since I'm HTML challenged I'll post this link: http://groups.msn.com/st1300us/general.msnw?action=get_message&mview=0&ID_Message=68111&LastModified=4675534568733154659
To the MSN site where I documented my fuel hose failure. If you follow Tom's imstructions this failure should not happen.

That said, after the FPR, and fuel hose R&R, Indigo runs MUCH better than with the stock FPR. Smoother, better throttle response and no surging. Is worth the $'s?
IMHO it is very well worth the time and $'s.

Besides waiting for the fuel hose, I could have done this job in 60-80 mins, my T-B bolts were tight but did not require any impact driving. Since I had the tank vertical, I could bear down on the 1/4" ratchet handle with the phillips bit and they all came right out.

Ride more, lean more, Grin more.

Neil S.

[Carl_T]

I can move away from a dead stop now without using the throttle or killing the engine. Couldn't do that before the new fuel regulator. Just a suggestion for you guys with a regulator. You can use the better off idle pulling power to your pocketbooks advantage. You will not need quite as many RPMS to start off now and can get done with the clutch friction zone sooner if you take advantage of the cleaner running, when starting off from a dead stop in normal terrain. Over many thousands of miles that will translate into extended clutch life.

The potential is there, it just takes a minute to check out if it's applicable to your bike. I'm estimating my bike is in the friction zone about 65% of what it was before this mod after I paid attention to the possibility.

Install was like butter, the pair vacuum hoses for the sync. were a true aggravation. No impact driver needed, just a good condition, well fitting point on the Phillips.

[Mike]

Finally got a day off so I installed the PRV, took an hour, glad I own a hand impact, mine were tight.

Just a ride around the nieghborhood but the roll-on is smoother and better low end transition.

One thing I found was the lower airbox is plastic and the engine heat warps it. By accident I discovered that my airfilter was not seating uniformly. :eek: I confirmed this by applying a coat of grease to the airfilter and seating in in place then bolting down the top cover and then removing it. There were 3 areas that had no grease transfer. This is not good! I don't know how much grit has bypassed the airfilter. I applied a heavy coat of grease to the airfilter sealing base and buttoned it up. I am going to find a suitable compression material and cut it to form a maleable gasket to better seat the airfilter.

I will let the Honda dealer know and see what the rep says. At least I bought the extended warranty.

[maxified]

Finally got around to installing the FPR and am well pleased. No impact driver was needed on the Red Machine and I put in a K&N filter while I had the tank up. My 521 mile test drive reflected a machine now without the little anomolies in varying throttle applications within urban traffic areas. The rural route portion showed no appreciable difference to me except on the top rpm end which I attribute more to the new filter. Let's just say my sport bike buddies were raising eyebrows...

No, I didn't quite keep up the two GXR's, the ZRX, or a nicely mod'ed Bandit, but I was doing OK...

What's your speed at 8000 in 5th? GPS had me 8 mph less than indicated.

[Mike]

So I had the pleasure of riding the ST today with the new PRV, still has throttle snatch, decreased surge but still there, flat spot at 3400-4000 still there but improved, still a lot of the pipes popping on deceleration.

The most noted improvement was it really pulls now.

I live at 5600 ft so the ST always seemed lacluster on acceleration, much improved with the PRV.

[CaST]

Its installed! Took about 3 hours, 6 year old running around and business calls, after I called Tom to find out where the prop rod was stored. Also I used a screw driver with a grit blasted tip and didn't need the impact driver. The biggest pain was fitting my big mitts in tight places to remove the hoses on the air cleaner housing. Forgot to reconnect the air temp sensor so had move the tank again.

Now for the good part. I actually have a motorcycle that rocks!!!!!! WOW!!!! Thanks Tom!!!! Why Honda doesn't have them modified to your specifications I will never know but I guess it keeps you in business!!!

[Jeff]

I finally installed the FPR on my :biker: ST. It doesn't growl any more, it sounds as if half of the "crickets" died and it responds so much better. One thing odd that I did notice. It seems as if my fuel useage indicator shows INCREASED fuel milelage.
If I had to rate this in one word, it would be = SWEET!

Jeff :biker:

[the_suspector]

Looks like I will be getting one of these fuel regulators also. It is close to the top of my wish list.

Chuck

[AgSTreak]

Got mine today. Brian (GG) and Todd(Kempo San) came over and performed the installation in about 1/2 hour :bow1: :bow1: :bow1: . I guess practice does make perfect . While we were at it I helped Todd install his power fuse block (a little more effort required there :D ). Everything works the way it is supposed to. Thanks guys terrific job and loads of fun too.
Right now I only have one short ride but the ST does seem to accelerate smoother. Flat spot appears to have moved slightly from 2900 to about 3500 rpms, could be my imagination. I hope to go for a longer ride today.

[CaST]

Got mine today. Brian (GG) and Todd(Kempo San) came over and performed the installation in about 1/2 hour :bow1: :bow1: :bow1: . I guess practice does make perfect . While we were at it I helped Todd install his power fuse block (a little more effort required there :D ). Everything works the way it is supposed to. Thanks guys terrific job and loads of fun too.
Right now I only have one short ride but the ST does seem to accelerate smoother. Flat spot appears to have moved slightly from 2900 to about 3500 rpms, could be my imagination. I hope to go for a longer ride today.

Practice makes perfect and 3 guys. One on each side and the other handing them tools. :chat1: Excellent work guys!

[Tor]

Looks like I am gonna have to get me one too. The throttle on my ST is not all that bad thought, specially after I took all the slack out of the throttle cables.

So what you all are saying, in addition to fixing the throttle response, it just plain run better?

[CaST]

Looks like I am gonna have to get me one too. The throttle on my ST is not all that bad thought, specially after I took all the slack out of the throttle cables.

So what you all are saying, in addition to fixing the throttle response, it just plain run better?

Yes, however as someone above made the observation, gas mileage drops. However, its supposed to be a fast bike, and why would I want it any other way. :biker:

[Carl_T]

Had mine in quite awhile now and am getting 1.9 mpg BETTER than before. It's been creeping up on the average.

[rschween]

Replaced mine before my weekend trip, about 2 1/2 hours at a very casual pace. I've also noticed an increase in fuel milage, and much smoother throttle response. Still a flat spot around 3750 RPM mainly at altitude.

[Hyper Overdrive]

I joined the forum recently and was reading the post's concerning the fuel reg replacement. I have the same problem with my 05 ST. The first 1/4 throttle is jerky and has a serious flat spot at 3200 to 4200 RPM. The higher the altitude the worse it gets. Does the reg change seem to improve the flat spot or just smooth out the jerkiness?

[Kempo-STer]

I joined the forum recently and was reading the post's concerning the fuel reg replacement. I have the same problem with my 05 ST. The first 1/4 throttle is jerky and has a serious flat spot at 3200 to 4200 RPM. The higher the altitude the worse it gets. Does the reg change seem to improve the flat spot or just smooth out the jerkiness?


Both..Although I have mostly noticed the no more jerkiness but most everyone also adds the smoothing out of the flat spot..Very good inexpensive mod.

[CaST]

I joined the forum recently and was reading the post's concerning the fuel reg replacement. I have the same problem with my 05 ST. The first 1/4 throttle is jerky and has a serious flat spot at 3200 to 4200 RPM. The higher the altitude the worse it gets. Does the reg change seem to improve the flat spot or just smooth out the jerkiness?

I don't remember the difference any more but I remember my initial response after installation was "oh my god." Then I wondered why Honda didn't install a regulator with higher pressure in the first place. My thought was some sort of mileage ploy but some people report better gas mileage so I think its just an engineering mistake. Others might know better.

[Jeff]

I joined the forum recently and was reading the post's concerning the fuel reg replacement. I have the same problem with my 05 ST. The first 1/4 throttle is jerky and has a serious flat spot at 3200 to 4200 RPM. The higher the altitude the worse it gets. Does the reg change seem to improve the flat spot or just smooth out the jerkiness?

On my :biker: all I could think of was how smooth it was now. You know how it feels when your in 2nd gear and twist the throttle and let it wind from 2 and a half to red line? Nice even power all the way? Well thats how the mod feels.....nice and smooth everywhere (at least on mine).
I really can't comment on the altitude issue, I ride from right at sea level to about 3500 ft. and have had no issues with any flat spots.

Someone keeps pondering why Honda did what they did....my guess is it's emmissions related.

Go ahead and do the mod.....it is simple to do and when it's done the smile on your face just gets bigger!

Jeff

[Hyper Overdrive]

Thanks for the Info. Sounds good to me. Where can I get the fuel reg?

[Jeff]

Thanks for the Info. Sounds good to me. Where can I get the fuel reg?


Should be able to go straight to the page here...http://www.turbocity.com/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=honda+st1300+fuel+pressure+reg&x=67&y=17

You are gonna love it!

Jeff

[Hyper Overdrive]

Thanks Jeff, Im going to order one today.

[Slider13]

It would be interesting to find out if any of you see a marked decrease in fuel mileage after the install. Would help decide whether or not it's worth it. I don't see it as being a huge problem for me. Let us all know.

Thanks,
Slider13

[Hyper Overdrive]

Will do, I am checking the average mileage for the next few tanks and will check it for a few tanks after the change. Will let you know ASAP.

[newbornst1300]

Will do, I am checking the average mileage for the next few tanks and will check it for a few tanks after the change. Will let you know ASAP.
Had one installed for a few months and 3-4K no change in MPG but much improved engine response. Very happy with the product.

Chris :03biker:

[georgeorge]

I've had mine on for some time now and I have to say that my average used to be 36 to 36.5 every time. Since I installed the regulator, my average milage has never been below 40. It's usually about 41 to 42. Now, I'm not sure if the engine is just loosening up a little or that the regulator actually made the improvement, but I would have to guess that the regulator made the improvement because of the timing of it all. The first tank after the install I got better mileage.....just my .03 cents (inflation).

[NewsMag]

OK, I have the pieces off and the new TurboCity fuel regulator in. Will continue tomorrow. It's not that it's difficult or takes a long time, but... :oops:

A couple of observations:

My screws were easy-peasy to remove. Reason is I took the bike in under warranty to have the leaking coolant hose connectors tightened. So the dealer's mechanic already removed and replaced everything you need to work with - therefore no impact driver was needed. ;)

Getting the hoses off the bottom of the air cleaner enclosure - a flat screwdriver at the top can be used to gently start the hose on it's way down the piece - helped me a lot. Same goes for the hoses on the regulator.

Instructions say if you have low enough fuel level (1 bar), not much fuel will leak out of the rail. I had 3 bars, and nothing in the top tank. Or so I thought. And fuel did NOT leak out of the fuel rail at all, but out of the "return" fuel hose attaching to the regulator. Even working fast, I lost over a quart down the middle of the bike and all over the garage floor. What a mess!

The spring clip that holds the "return" fuel hose has one center tab and two opposing tabs, one on either side of the center tab. The three together are wider than any set of pliers I had. Got it pushed down and the hose off OK. But I absolutely could NOT get the pliers on the clip or the clip back in place. I did have a nice tiny screw-drive hose clamp that I got on. Then I decided to get the Honda part off the hard way. You guessed it - ended up nicking the hose below the metal piece. :cus:

There's barely enough slack to cut and reset, and of course this process lost another half gallon of pricey premium fuel all over the place - I caught most of it in my oil change pan. Of course the lower hose section was virgin "unstretched" tubing, so it was a holy ***** to get onto the regulator, even with all the fuel lubricant spurting around. :mad:

The instructions say put the regulator on, then attach the hoses, then tighten. I found it better to put the fuel "return" hose on, then attach the regulator, then the vacuum tube, then tighten the regulator. I think this approach may have been a better way to go on disassembly, too.

The instructions say to start and check for leaks next - not a great idea with fuel puddled around everywhere including the lower fairing and exhaust pipes. Opened everything for some air and cleaned as best I could for an hour before trying. No leaks. But I plan to try again tomorrow when it's a lot colder.

ST sounds kinda throaty with all the intake crap off. :)

Instructions say to remove the air temp sensor from the airbox top cover and plug it in to avoid error codes. I found it easier just to plug the thing in while leaving it in the top cover, hanging over the side of the bike. Plenty of slack. No problem. ;)

Will update this post with tomorrows comedic garage events. :banghead:

UPDATE: Reassembly was a snap. No issues. Was not so cold this morning (50 degrees), and still no leaks. Upon completion idle was quite high, so I adjusted down to about 900 RPM.

Advice: ensure you have the fuel level low, remove the Honda spring clip for a screw one before reconnecting the fuel line, and have fun!

[Hyper Overdrive]

Well, I have run through 4 tanks of fuel after the fuel reg install and seem to be getting about a 2 1/2 MPG increase in fuel mileage. At 75 MPH, I was averaging 39.6 and now it is averaging 42. The throttle is smooth and no flat spot. It seems to be smoother at RPM's above 6K as well. Thanks for the info, it was well worth it. :D

[uptoblackwood]

Just did a few things to the bike and one of them was add this fuel control valve. It has made a big difference in how the bike performs. Smoother in the lower gears, a different sound....and in my case at least 3 to 4 mpg better than with the OEM valve. No problem with the infamous screws in the top of the adapters. They came right out without any trouble at all.

[montyshaw]

I just did this mod this weekend. Everything went fine, and the low end is sooo much smoother. Very nice.

As another poster stated, it is easier to take the old regulator off, and then swap the fuel line to the new one.

After I was done, I was expecting to need to adjust the idle, but after it warmed up, it idled right at 750. Should I have needed to adjust the idle?

No leaks and it seems to be working fine.

]Monty[

[racer1735]

I ordered the regulator and have confirmation that its on its way. Have slated Dec. 26 as 'installment' day....will have the heater and halogen lights on early to warm the shop....hope its warm enough to ride to the gas station afterwards to fuel up for the winter storage....brrrr!!!!

[tourbillion]

Oh man-o-man. We are almost neighbors AND we've got matching bikes. Gotta love that blue. Anyway, take very careful mental notes on installing this upgrade. I hope to install one after the holidays and would consider myself competant with hand tools but for some reason I am nervous about tearing into the ST. Keep me updated on the progress. If you ever get down to Columbus or there-abouts feel free to look me up. Come July 9th I am moving up to North West Indiana so I'll not have the hills of southern Indiana to thrill me anymore...I'll only have the boring ho hum Lake Michigan to ride around. ;) Actually we'll be about 17 minutes directly south of the Dunes National Park.

[racer1735]

Installed my FPR yesterday. K&N Filter, stock exhaust, regulator was marked at 59 psi. From start to finish it took about 90 minutes. Every one of my adapter plate screws were a snap to undo (and I had the power driver ready to go!). I had one bar showing on the fuel gauge and when I removed the fuel hose, maybe...maybe 2 tablespoons of fuel dribbled out. Since it was 45 and raining when I finished, I didn't get to ride as far as I wuold have liked...went about 5 miles, but everything was noticably smoother and absolutely no 'burbling' on decel.

My suggestions based on what I encountered (and to be added to what has already been posted):

Unless you have the memory of an elephant, take a Sharpie or some kind of marker and label the intake runners 1-2-3-4 to denote the cylinders (I also labled the adapter plates, as well). Each running is cylinder-specific and this saved me from having to guess which went where and how it was arranged.:confused:

You have to remove two breather hoses from the airbox, as well as a vacuum line and the fuel hose from the regulator. If none of these have been previously removed, THEY WON'T COME OFF WITH A SIMPLE TUG. Take a pair of pliers and GENTLY twist the hose where it attaches to the input line. This will break any stiction that is present. You can then pull the hose off the connection without tearing the hose or splitting the input connector.

Fold a piece of paper towel into a piece that measures approx. 3" x 3" and stuff it under the original regulator prior to removing its fitting. This will catch any, or at least most, of the fuel that may dribble out. I did this and none made it past the towel.

I believe someone already mentioned this, but its easier to put the fuel hose and vacuum line on the new regulator BEFORE you attach the regulator to the fuel rail. And remember to pivot the fuel hose so it points down when you tighten everything up.

Before you start the bike to check for leaks, plug the air temp sensor back into the top of the airbox and let it hang over the side of the frame. This way you won't have a diagnostic code showing on your gauges.

All in all, a simple task.:) If only my next farkles (installing quartet harness, wiring my XM radio and installing a gauge-mounted powerlet) were as easy! They took the better part of eight hours (mainly because of the plastic!).:mad:

[CaST]

I have some pictures that I took last summer of the job in case they will help anyone.

[ligito]

I used a spring clamp, like used for furniture (Pony Clamp), to remove and install the miserable split hose clamp.

I also used a surgical clamp to remove and replace the other tension clamps and that made it a lot easier to R&R the hoses.

You don't want to know how many DAYS it took me.

I found some older carburetor stands that made good hose plugs, at the air injection valve, so I didn't have to remove the hoses at the Reed valve location (too difficult to access).

I'm doing the synch while I have it all apart, also.

[UNTMatt]

1) Does this affect the bike running it lean or rich?

2) Does the mapping have to be altered after changing the FPR?

3) Does this void the warranty?

4) Should I do this on my brand new bike or wait until it's broken in?

5) How much play is supposed to be in the throttle?

[georgeorge]

1) No.
2) No.
3) ???? Maybe....if the Mother Honda can tell the difference....maybe.
4) Yes....Do it now. Nice improvement.
5) 1/16 inch.

[Jeff]

1) Does this affect the bike running it lean or rich?

2) Does the mapping have to be altered after changing the FPR?

3) Does this void the warranty?

4) Should I do this on my brand new bike or wait until it's broken in?

5) How much play is supposed to be in the throttle?


You know, I worried about all that stuff at first. If you are mechanically inclined in the least little bit, this mod is so easy you'll laugh at yourself for thinking too much into it when you are done.

Just do it! You will wonder WHY in the hell it didn't come that way to begin with. The improvement is VERY noticable the moment you drive off.

As far as throttle play, just follow the guidance in your book.

Jeff

[Tiny]

Apparently I fall within the "less than the least little bit" category. Actually, now that the nightmare is over I'm very glad I did it. I think.

[DrewB]

I installed the FPR last Friday night without any drama. Followed the included instructions and some of the suggestions in this thread, including the one suggesting labeling the air intake tubes and adapters before removing them. I didn't use an impact driver, but was probably within a half of a foot-pound of giving up before the last couple of airbox screws broke loose. I was probably lucky I didn't strip the heads on a few.

I had never had the tank up before so my total job time of 2 hours wasn't too bad--that included several interuptions to convince my two young sons that it would not be good for their health to play with my tools around my nice shiny '06.

After putting on 600 miles this weekend, I am a believer that the FPR does everything it was supposed to do. During part of that 600 miles, I rode my brother's '04 ST with the stock FPR and the difference was quite noticeable. Well worth the $$$.

BTW, my bike is stock and the FPR came with "58" engraved on it.

Drew

[sherob]

FPR in... :D Workin on McCruise now :)

[beberle]

Jumped on the bandwagon.
One gotcha'! One of my screw heads was already deformed or stripped! I used an impact driver on all of them w/ no issues until I came across one that just wouldn't 'set'. Hard to get your head under the tank for a closer look, but I managed... w/ thoughts of the tank coming down and trapping me ;-) Sure enough, my brand new '06 w/ 1k miles had a stripped screw!! I had to use a #3 phillips head and prayed... wacked it hard and managed to break it loose.
How do I order a replacement screw? Was able to torque it down enough to be driveable, but I don't want 'used' hardware on my Baby ;-)
Glad I invested in the impact driver. Wouldn't have been able to do the job otherwise. Hint, hint!

[huxtablejones]

I put the FPR on my wife's bike today..it took about 2.5 hours, broken down as follows:

20 minutes reading instructions, memorizing steps.

10 minutes lifting tank into maintenance position

10 minutes looking for #$^^*%#@ prop rod - what $@!^%@ prop rod?

10 minutes removing upper air box cover.

10 minutes looking at instructions, eyeballing air temp sensor plug, wondering if I really should unhook it. I never wrenched on a FI bike before.

10 minutes reading this thread for metion of problems due to unhooking air temp sensor plug.

20 minutes searching this forum for "air temp sensor problems"

10 minutes on google searching for "ST1300 air temp sensor problems because i unhooked to to install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator"

2 seconds - unhooking air temp sensor plug

30 minutes fighting @%&@$& tiny little hose clamps

10 minutes - staring at factory FPR, directions alternatively.

20 minutes - searching this forum for "aftermarket FPR ruined my motorcycle"

30 minutes searching google - "St1300 explodes due to after market FPR"

10 minutes searching google "ST1300 fire due to aftermarket FPR"

2 minutes - replace FPR with new one. two drops of fuel escape from hoses

2 seconds turn key on - heart stops when FI light blinks

10 minutes - in bathroom puking, hyperventilating, finally notice blurb re: hooking up air temp sensor in directions

1 minute hook up air temp sensor, start bike. through the sweat and the tears I see that the FI light no longer blinks.

reassemble, ride

Seriously, I spent more time wringing my hands about doing this mod than I did doing this mod. The kick in the pants at apex is gone now - much sweeter bike. I dunno why Honda didn't send them out the door this way.

for my own curiosity, what's the difference beween this FPR and the stock? What's the theory behind why it's so much smoother response now? I thought this might be one of those mods where the difference is negligible, but I can say it is significantly better.

[kish_garfield]

Uhmmm I am not a superbly technical inclined asian but know enough...ROde ST11 for 14mths and been with the 13 for 8 mths now....

For what I read, the regulator is for fuel efficiency. And would like to know

1) Any Brand to look for?

2) Price?

3) Any assistance to ship to Singapore?

Thanks!!!

[Prometheus4given]

Did anyone also change to the K&N filter at the same time?
Did anyone try Tom's new air box modification and/or reusable filter?
I had some problems tuning the TB's; I even ordered the electronic tuner and 1,2 went well 1,3 went well, 1,4 couldn't keep the bike running... anyone else have prob's with the tuning?
Still have a dead area about 4-4500 RPM then she really gets up and go's...
Also, my pipes are turning gold; is that typical?

[sherob]

Did anyone also change to the K&N filter at the same time?
Did anyone try Tom's new air box modification and/or reusable filter?
I had some problems tuning the TB's; I even ordered the electronic tuner and 1,2 went well 1,3 went well, 1,4 couldn't keep the bike running... anyone else have prob's with the tuning?
Still have a dead area about 4-4500 RPM then she really gets up and go's...
Also, my pipes are turning gold; is that typical?

This is normal... ;) Can't help you with the rest of your questions ;)

[Tor]

Got the FPR installed today. Thanks Tom ;-).

Went fine, had about~ 3/4 tank when I started. Thanks to honey, she capped off everything with her fingers while I installed the new regulator (we always work on our bikes together.) While we were at it, we went ahead tore the right side off the bike, and installed the Stebel Compact Nautilus I have had laying on the workbench for a week or so. Nice fit right inside the right mirror.
Went out to test-ride the FPR. Big difference. The ~2800 RPM flatspot is gone, and she is just a lot smoother particularly at lower RPM's. We wrapped up the day bolting another new Stebel on her VTX1300. Then off to Bill's BBQ in Cheraw, SC. Man they got some good BBQ.



Its all good.

[Doug Meek]

I just installed Turbo City's FPR on my '05 ST1300. I also installed a K&N air filter. Tom set my FPR to 59# to allow for the K&N. My question is - do I need to do any type of ECM recalibration? If so, how do I do this? I couldn't find any info on this in either my owners manual or my Honda service manual. I'm not sure if the ECM automatically compensates for the modifications or if I need to reset it manually somehow. Thanks in advance.

Doug

[ccryder]

Nope, just ride it! The recalibration was done on the FPR. The feedback from the O2 will let the ECM know what's going on.

Neil S.

[Byron]

Doug,

There are no adjustments available. The ECM will automatically make any adjustments it feels are necessary as you ride.

[Doug Meek]

Thanks for the quick responses guys! Love this site.:bow1:

Doug

[Wayne-05A]

You can add me to the list of satisfied customers of the TBI Fuel Regulator.

I ordered it on July 19th and it arrived at my door about 5 days later. It's a good thing I warned Kathi it was coming as the UPS guy wanted $55 COD to cover the GST, PST and brokerage fee. (I didn't have time to pick it up in Oroville but I would much rather have spent the money on gas to go and pick it up rather than pay UPS.)

I finally got the chance to install it this morning. I ran the tank darn near to empty yesterday so I had virtually zero fuel spill. (Took 26 litres to fill it up after.)

Only two of the dreaded adapter screws needed the impact driver and the toughest part for me was reattaching the rear hose to the air cleaner housing. I need longer fingers. Less than an hour to install if you don't count several hours reading and re-reading the instructions.

I found a very noticable difference. Much smoother on and off the throttle at low speeds. A 60 km test run down some very twisty roads with low speed hairpin corners has sold me on this mod. I was doing tight low speed figure eights in the street out front with only throttle control. With the stock FPR I needed to slip the clutch to prevent the throttle from surging on and off.

This modification performs as advertised, highly recommended. :bow1:

[Lou65]

I just installed the turbo tom fuel pressure regulator about
200 miles ago and I am sooo pleased with the results, I would not call it a subtle difference at all.

The bike runs smoother, accelerates better/smoother and I find the need to down shift is noticeably reduced.....

I did not have any complaints with the bike before and really
couldn't imagine such a great improvement (I only did it as
an experiment because of recommendations from our gang)
Haven't had time to measure it yet but my eyeballs tell me
I am burning more gas, but still worth it.

Not much of a mechanic, I did install it myself without
incident...but it took me over 4 hours....

definitely recommend

Thanks Tom

[STNY]

I did mine about 6 weeks ago and I immediately could tell the difference. Quicker throttle response, lost that dead spot between 1500-3500 RPM. As far as MPG, don't really care if their is a difference, she runs 100 times better it was worth it. Complete install took about 1 1/2 hrs.

[GregSTi]

Have the Turbo City FPR (59#) sitting in the shop waiting. Tom said it would be ok to install without the high flow air filter - which is coming. Just need to find the time to rip into the bike... A few questions for the enlightened ones ;)

Comments on Turbo City's high flow air filter?
Comments on Turbo City's ST airbox mod?

Bought my 03 with ~15K miles on it and hope to put another 1K on it this winter (will be a struggle in Seattle). Am doing the Alcan next summer so my plan is to let a dealership (I-90 Motorsports) do the full monty 16K service to prep the bike for the Alcan trip. Should I wait until after the service to do the FPR or is it ok to do it now? I can see having a couple of rainy weekends this winter that will allow me to get to it... ;)

BTW - purchased several items from Turbo City and am impressed with their build quality and customer support. Great outfit!

Thanks!

[Byron]

"Comments on Turbo City's high flow air filter?
Comments on Turbo City's ST airbox mod?"

I have them both and they seem to be working just fine. Do I have any hard data that says they improve HP, no, and I still like them.

I already had the FPR, K&N air filter and Staintunes. I liked the idea of getting more air into the air-box and the air-box mod seems like a good way to do it. I didn't want to cut the K&N so I bought one of Tom's filters.

For any of the hotrod crowd out there it is like taking off the factory air cleaner housing and putting an open one on in its place or simply flipping over the lid so that it doesn't seal and more air can get in. You'll hear more intake sounds with the air-box mod. Sort of like hearing more growl from the exhaust by changing mufflers.

I've ridden with the mod in rain and no problems. I've even had the lower air intake opening partially blocked with a plastic bag that got snagged while riding and no loss of power as air was able to still come in from the top.

Just like adding the Staintunes, no adverse noise when riding with restraint just a bit more snarl when you decide to twist the wrist. :)

[Red Duke Rider]

I'm in the process of installing my FPR. I am doing mine with the tank off so getting to the screws is a little easier.

Are you guys not eating your Wheaties or spinach? I had no problem whatsoever getting the screws out. I think the trick is a quality screw driver that fits the screw heads perfectly and good wrist action.

[Red Duke Rider]

TC Tom:

You made mention of some fuel coupler hose failures after installing one of your new FPR's.

Wasn't there some sort of recall on the chassis ground on the very early ST1300's concerning where the wires bolt to the frame at the very rear of the gas tank. It seems like Honda recommended replacing the fuel connector hose when this mod was done. Apparently this hose is either very delicate or doesn't like to be bent much at all.

I've got my ST all apart doing a host of mods (including the FPR and K&N) and as I have the tank off, I think I may go ahead and install a new fuel coupling line. This isn't the first time I've heard of them failing either.

Would you recommend using the Honda spring clamps or opting for some good worm screw clamps that can be safety wired?

RDR

[turbocity tom]

TC Tom:

You made mention of some fuel coupler hose failures after installing one of your new FPR's.

Wasn't there some sort of recall on the chassis ground on the very early ST1300's concerning where the wires bolt to the frame at the very rear of the gas tank. It seems like Honda recommended replacing the fuel connector hose when this mod was done. Apparently this hose is either very delicate or doesn't like to be bent much at all.

I've got my ST all apart doing a host of mods (including the FPR and K&N) and as I have the tank off, I think I may go ahead and install a new fuel coupling line. This isn't the first time I've heard of them failing either.

Would you recommend using the Honda spring clamps or opting for some good worm screw clamps that can be safety wired?

RDR

There is very little pressure on that hose as it is a transfer hose. The spring clamps work well. It would be possiable to over tighten a worn type clamp and damage the hose.

The hose is a soft silicone non reinforced hose that rips easily. I had my tank up 20+ times without a failure untill one day, I was not even working on my ST, the hose split. Dumping about 3 gal of fuel on the shop floor. I now carry an extra hose.


Thanks Tom

[Red Duke Rider]

I think the magic phrase you used there is "non-reinforced". That would explain the high rate of failures. Add in the fact the abundant amount of heat under the tank.

I checked with one of the on line Honda dealers and that hose is only about $6. I will definitely replace mine and order me a spare. Rather be safe than on fire or have gas leaking all over my rear tire just as I get ready to crank it over onto the pegs.

Not going to go into all of the details, but if you've ever been in a gasoline fire you will respect the stuff for the rest of your life and then some.

[wjbertrand]

Hmmmm, I've got a spare but it resides on my bench. Fat lot of good that would do if I sprung a leak on the road somewhere!

[Red Duke Rider]

Little trick I figured out that helped (and a tip of the hat to NewsMag for his great suggestion to remove the regulator prior to attempting the remove the hoses).

Several people have complained about not being able to grab all three tangs of the hose clamp with a pair of pliers. Use needle nose pliers and turn them in line with the hose. Sorry the pic is crappy but I was shooting with the left hand and trying to hold the pliers with the right hand.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb280/RedDukeRider/IMG_1883.jpg

As you can see, I did mine with the tank off. Piece o' cake with the tank off. Takes about 5 minutes total once you get the tank and airbox off.

Yes I will be replacing the fuel connector hose. I already have two of them in a box. Got them from Ron Ayers for about $6 each.

RDR

[Larry Ramel]

Has any one accurately checked their before and after mpg figures?

[Mark]

Larry,

Not 'precisely' because I didn't keep a gas log on Chris's ST1300; but, roughly I got 42 mpg on her bike before and I had not seen higher numbers (unless on the freeway in OR (they go slow there!) where I saw 50 mpg 2 up last June.

So if you're asking does it lower mpg I believe the answer is no it does not lower your mpg.

Mark

[BILLP117]

I finally got around to installing a Turbo City FPR on my '04 ST1300.

http://www.turbocity.com/product_info.php?cPath=64&products_id=551

I am happy to say it has met all my expectations and has mostly solved the herky-jerky ride. My cruise control works much smoother and the dilithium crystal seem to last longer. ;)

My issues were compounded by the fact that I have a stock air cleaner and Staintune pipes. The folks at Turbo City sent me an FPR marked "60". The installation was rather straight forward until I disconnected the fuel hose with a full tank...you gotta work fast.

After a 200 mile ride on Saturday I confirmed the FPR works great and will help extend my riding day since throttle operation is much smoother...more analog as Adam K reports. This is one of my best $99 farkels to date.

[MacT66]

Count me as another satisfied customer! Yesterday, I replaced my FPR with the 60psi turbo tom unit (I have staintunes and factory air cleaner).

The bike is smoother and I can run higher gears at lower rpm without a stumble. This is really noticeable during slow speed parking lot maneuvers.

The install went pretty smooth except for a couple things. The rear air cleaner hose is a pain to re-attach. With the tank in maintenance position, you have to reach under it, between the handlebars, under the air cleaner housing, grab the short hose and attach by feel because you cannot see what you are doing.

The fuel line was also a pain to reattach. I finally had to mount it while the FPR was disconnected.

I read others say the fuel line is not re-enforced. Mine has white threads embedded in it. Doesn't that mean it is re-enforced? I have a 2006 model.

I also noticed there was oil on the bottom of the air cleaner. Is that supposed to be there? I just had my leaky fork seal fixed so I think it is just fork oil that got blown into the intake. What say you?

Mac

:06biker:

[Pete in PA]

Just wanted to add my name to the satisfied customers. I got mine used from this board. 58# model.

I had even stated that I didn't think I needed it, that with my throttle cables tight it was fine. WRONG!

This is one of those mods where you think it's fine because you don't know any better.

Throttle response, power, smoothness are MUCH improved!

Easy install, make sure you've been on 1 bar flashing for 30 miles or so, I already had a JIS screwdriver, all screws came out without a nick.

Remove FPR from rail THEN remove 2 hoses, put on new FPR, THEN bolt FPR on rail.

While "under the hood" I also transferred cable slack from handlebar to the throttle body and lubed idle speed screw, darn thing would barely turn! Cable would flex like crazy.

[Rolando]

Just installed the Turbo Tom FPR. Took months to do it because it looked like it would be a problem. Took me about two hours. Two lines on the fuel indicator are fine: Very little fuel was spilled. The feared screws that have to be removed last to remove the bottom part of the air filter housing are hard, but not that much of a problem really.

Here's how I handled them:
- Looked for the tightest fitting tip for an exchangeable tip screwdriver.
- Used a "T" shaped (very cheap chinese) screwdriver with which you have more leverage.
- With the screwdriver on top of the screw I tapped for a while on each screw before removing it, usting my ratchet handle.
- I made sure to lean on the screwdriver vertically and avoid any movement other than the screw giving way.

All of them came out, with some strength applied, but first time. The rest of the porcedure is not complicated and Turbo Tom's instructions included with the Fuel Pressure Regulator are fine. I missed tightening the throttle cables when in there, as sugested here. Pitty. It's a good idea.

Will report back further on about the change i feel on the bike. For now it does seem a little smoother, but can't tell yet if the change is really significant. Take care, ride safe.