Custom Made Pull Behind Trailer

[Texas]

A long, long time ago (back in the 80s), I used to have a 1200 Goldwing. I used to be a "money is no object" sort of guy, and I wanted a trailer, so I went out and purchase a brand new Escapade trailer all chromed out with a cooler rack, bra, independent suspension, etc... This was a beautiful trailer, but it cost me like $2,600 (and this was in the 80s), and it was very heavy.

Here I am now, 20 years older, 20 times more careful about my spending and 20 times poorer. I have been wanting a trailer to pull behind the ST (and a Burgman if I can ever get one for a descent price), that is lightweight, very functional (carry cargo, bicycles, bags of sand or a tree if I need to), inexpensive and still look good.

Guess what.....there is nothing out there. I have looked everywhere. This has lead me to where I am now....learning to weld. I have designed (in the vast emptiness of my head of course) a plan for the weight that I want it to be, the price and what I want it to look like.

Most of the parts have been ordered, and a couple of pieces have arrived, and I'm starting to get quite excited. I have a bit of experience with wood, but have never built anything out of steel, or anything that required a registration to travel down the road. If I can do this, not only will I have exactly what I wanted, but I will be able to do it at a reasonable price, and be extremely proud of what I have done (priceless....is this a Discover Card commercial?)

So here are the features of my trailer:

- High Polished Diamond Plate Flatbed
- Removable Cargo Box
- (2) Bicycle Mounts
- Independent Suspension
- Swivel Tongue Coupler
- LED Turn Signals, Running Lights and Brake Lights
- Less than 100 lbs total weight
- Less than $1K total cost

I am also going to design my own hitch. I will not be using the typical tongue coupler with 1 & 7/8" ball. That is over-kill and too heavy. I am not towing 7,000 lbs, so I am coming up with a small, lightweight swivel system that will also be lockable (if they want it, then they are going to have to take the bike too....its insured). I will take my time building it, as I want it to be perfect. I expect it to take me a couple of months between the trailer and the hitch for the ST. Of course once I finish, I will post pictures.

So I am interested in seeing other people's tow-behind trailer creations. How are they built, and what made you decide to build it the way you did?

Texas :06biker:

[georgeorge]

There are several pictures of mine on pages 3 and 4 in my album here: http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/bkorten/

For a hitch, I used a Tractors 3-point hitch top link like this one clicky (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96073)cut in half and welded into the tongue of the trailer and the pin bolted to the hitch. Swivels every which way and handles beautifully.

[Capt_Gruuvy]

There are several pictures of mine on pages 3 and 4 in my album here: .....

... a couple more bungee cords and I think you'll be all set.

Clever project.

[Lowrider]

You guys are reading my mind...or maybe I'm reading yours.

I checked the local HF outlet today and their little trailer with 12" wheels is on sale for about $190 until 11 Aug 08 and I just missed the X Cargo sale at Sears for the 20 CF car top box. Still...parts are under $500 for the trailer. I was going to go with rubber torsion bar independent suspension until I saw the HF trailer today and I think the springs less on leaf will handle things just fine.

George,

What kind of weight do you think your hitch will handle? I'm thinking of something very similar, but a bit heavier. Is that solid material or tubing?

Joe

[georgeorge]

it's solid material. I can tweek it a little, with somme muscle, but it's pretty solid. Solid enough for as much weight as I'll ever tow with this trailer.
BTW, I used the 8" wheels and have about 10,000 miles so far on this trailer without issues. I also narrowed the harbor freight frame by 17 inches so that it's not so wide. Now it's about 34" wide... just about the same as the bike.

[Gti20vturbo]

Im building one right now......... :)

[illzoni]

Very interesting ideas.

I'm not 'real' interested in the trailer for behind the ST100, but....

We're really considering a significant downsize for the family vehicle (Grand Caravan > Mazda 5). If we do, your idea with another, larger, removal cargo box would be the ultimate in flexibility. Something light enough to pull behind the bike certainly would have minimal impact on the car, but might offer some valuable cargo room.

Please keep us updated on your project. If you need a place to stach photos, plans, etc on the web, I'd be glad to host them on my space at:
www.illzoni.com/bikes

[Texas]

George,

You went with the same hubcaps that I am going with. Those hubcaps I believe are made for Golf Carts, and I believe they are made to fit a deeper wheel. Did you have to modify them at all? I see your 8" wheels are 4-bolt. I am looking at going with 5-bolt because I should hopefully be able to hide the bolts behind the hubcap's 5 spokes. What do you think? If you did modify the hubcaps, what did you have to do to them?

By the way, good job on the hitch. Your tongue coupler is very simular to what I am doing. Much, much lighter than a traditional coupler. What size of flat bar did you use for the rear support of the hitch (thickness x width)? I assume you used a U-Bolt at the top to attach it to the frame?

Texas

[Texas]

I just missed the X Cargo sale at Sears for the 20 CF car top box.


I am still looking for a good deal on a cargo box. At this point, it is not a "must have right now". Even with a flatbed, I will be able to haul several dufflebags, but once I can find a great deal on a cargo box (hopefully the same one George has), I will be buying it.

Texas

[georgeorge]

George,

You went with the same hubcaps that I am going with. Those hubcaps I believe are made for Golf Carts, and I believe they are made to fit a deeper wheel. Did you have to modify them at all? I see your 8" wheels are 4-bolt. I am looking at going with 5-bolt because I should hopefully be able to hide the bolts behind the hubcap's 5 spokes. What do you think? If you did modify the hubcaps, what did you have to do to them?

By the way, good job on the hitch. Your tongue coupler is very simular to what I am doing. Much, much lighter than a traditional coupler. What size of flat bar did you use for the rear support of the hitch (thickness x width)? I assume you used a U-Bolt at the top to attach it to the frame?

Texas


The hubcaps are the Golf cart ones, but yes they did have to be modified. They were WAY to deep to work so I used a die grinder to take off the material from the back until they fit without bottoming out. It was a job to do that, but as you can see, it can be done. If I had to do it again, I would try to find something shallower, but these do really look nice.

The hitch rear support bar is 5/8" X 1-1/2" and that is the only piece on the hitch that is hollow. Being square tubing, it's very strong.

To attach it to the bike up top was a challenge. The way I went about it was that if you look up at the inner wheel well, up top, you'll see a flat spot in the plastic wheel well. That spot is the side of the tool kit pocket under the seat. What I did was cut a rectangle peice of steel that would fit on the inside....under the seat... in that spot. Then I drilled 2 holes through that peice, the plastic wheel well, and the hitch metal itself, and bolted it all together. It turns out to be very strong. It's only to support the tongue weight, which will be next to nothing if the trailer is designed and loaded properly. The side to side strength comes from the parts of the hitch that bolt to the muffler mounts.

[hojo in sc]

Brian: Did I miss something, did you custom make the reciever or buy it from someone? Also, it looks like it only attaches to where the mufflers attach, just two points of contact?

tnx

[georgeorge]

Brian: Did I miss something, did you custom make the reciever or buy it from someone? Also, it looks like it only attaches to where the mufflers attach, just two points of contact?

tnx

I did custom make my own. It attaches to the bike in 3 spots. The 2 muffler mounts and up in the wheel well where I described in may last post. If it was only attached at the muffler mounts there would be no support for the weight of the trailer vertically.

[georgeorge]

You can see the 3rd mounting point that I tried to describe here in this photo:

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/bkorten/P1010003-1.jpg

And you can see where it supports the hitch in this photo:

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/bkorten/P1010004-1.jpg

[Lowrider]

it's solid material. I can tweek it a little, with somme muscle, but it's pretty solid. Solid enough for as much weight as I'll ever tow with this trailer.
BTW, I used the 8" wheels and have about 10,000 miles so far on this trailer without issues. I also narrowed the harbor freight frame by 17 inches so that it's not so wide. Now it's about 34" wide... just about the same as the bike.


Brian,

I think you are correct that the 8" wheels are adequate, however, I envision a 3" to 4" PVC pipe slung under the trailer/tongue to carry fly rods so the extra 2" ground clearance will help me out...I think.

What kind of weight can you easily pull with your set-up? I'm guessing 80 -100 pounds for the complete trailer and possible up to 300 pounds of sprung weight for a potential load. I'm thinking 400 pounds of pulled weight will not be any harder on the bike than a 200 pound rider....except for braking possibly. I doubt I will ever pull that much weight, but would like to have the capability if I want to do so at some point.

I think I read somewhere that a Wing will pull 700 pounds with no problem, so 400 lbs for an ST seems reasonable to me. I want to try to balance the trailer with the 300 lbs load to give about a 20 lb tongue weight or so. Braking is my real concern where there are forward and down forces at work on the hitch.

Any thoughts from anyone??

Joe

[illzoni]

I want to try to balance the trailer with the 300 lbs load to give about a 20 lb tongue weight or so. Braking is my real concern where there are forward and down forces at work on the hitch.

Any thoughts from anyone??

Joe

I'm guessing you'll need more tongue weight than that.

I believe typical trailer tongue weight should be 10-15% of gross trailer weight. Given that, a 400 pound trailer should have at least 40 pounds tongue weight.

Look at the trailer from the side. The center of gravity is above the axle. When the trailer is pulled forward, the CG will want to rotate rearward over the pivot point (axle). That rotation could lighten the rear wheel of the bike a bit. These trailer are designed with the CG a bit higher than I'd prefer, and they have very short wheelbases, so that rotational effect is greater. A level trailer with its CG low to the axle would minimize these effects.

These designs are pretty cool. If I use one of them, however, I'll be looking for a way to lower the CG.

HTH,
Jon

[Lowrider]

Jon,


You are certainly correct about CG...lower is better. One of my reasons for build ing the trailer is potentially for a trip to AK next summer by bike. I've done the Alcan by Cessna and truck and I would really like to do it by bike with my sons and camp along the way.

Maybe my thought process is flawed, but I'm thinking during braking the tongue weight will be significantly higher so I am trying to stay a bit light with the CG further back than normal to accomodate the weight shift that occurs when you hit the brakes hard. I would of course load the trailer with heavy items on the bottom and keep loads from shifting as much as possible, keeping the trailer/load CG as low as possible. I'm planning an ice chest in the front on the tongue and fuel cans and a 20 lb propane tank on the back of the trailer which pretty much adds up to 100 pounds by it's self. The remaining weight would be camping gear, food, clothes and stuff. I might choose to go with multi-fuel stove/lantern and drop the propane requirement and just haul unleaded gasoline as needed. A gallon of gas goes a long way in Coleman stoves and lanterns.

Anyway, the ideas and experiences of others are greatly valued and will help my design efforts!!

Thanks,

Joe

[Texas]

I know that people have pulled more weight with their bikes than people would think (Wings as a good example). However, I still would not recommend it...at least not for a trip of any length. I know there may be times I may pick up something (like a big Air Compressor) from the store and bring it home, but all of my stores are within 1.5 miles of my home. I would not consider pulling that kind of weight on a 2,000 mile trip. I am sure the ST would do it, but just like smoking isn't good for people, pulling that much weight can't be good for the ST. The weight of my trailer will be about 100 lbs dry, so I won't be carrying more than 100 lbs on top.

To keep the CG low, I am using torsion axles. They are a bit more expensive, but everyone that I know that has used them, rage about how well the trailer handles with them.

Texas

[iride]

All this build my one trailer stuff got me to thinking,,,
I knew a buy that built his small Canoe pulling trailer out of aluminum
I am not sure if it was bolted together or welded,,, But it was super light
He pulled it with a CX 500,,,, Sure wished I knew what happened to him,,,
He offered to build me one for 350,,,,

Mike

[ST1300 Alicia]

This is a forum that contains a host of information on Trailer Towing and Home Builds. They have a Special area for HF Trailers. These guys are serious about trailers. They talk about lowering the center of Gravity on the HF Trailers by placing the axle on top of the spring and modifying the Fenders. Check Them Out. I have a 12" HF kit that I will build soon!

http://forums.delphiforums.com/MCTrailertowing/start

[Texas]

I had given some thought to a all aluminum trailer, but the axles are steel, and I don't know how well that would match up to a aluminum frame. Also, welding aluminum takes special equipment that I don't have, and I don't think I want to get into. The bed of my trailer will be aluminum, but it will be riveted to the steel frame.

Texas

[Lowrider]

You are right...aluminum is the best material.

I have a Featherlite 5' x 8' with rubber torsion axles that I have thought about cutting down, but it is so handy I am not willing to sacrafice it for the bike.

They say you can weld Al with a MIG using 100% argon and AL wire, but I have never tired it. I do have all the riveting equipment left over from building/fixing airplanes, but considering the extra costs involved with AL and how cheap the HF trailer kit is, I don't think I'd save enough weight to make it worthwhile. Maybe if AL was cheaper.

So Texas, you are saying 200 lbs is the max you think would be appropriate to haul any distance. Is your concern the clutch or just added strain on the bike it's self? Any other ideas on max weight for an ST to pull on a long trip?

[Ninjato]

I have to say, you guys are BOLD!!!!!! I wouldn't even think about towing something w/ my bike. YEs I have seen it done w/ GWs and HD's but even that I say it's bold. I've been riding for years (since '78) and the though of towing w/ the bike never was even entertained in my mind.

On the other hand, when I triked out my VTX1800 for my wife, Honda said that we would void the warranty on the drive train of the bike if we did it because the VTX wasn't designed to pull. Hmmmmm sure puts out a lot of torque to not pull.

Any thought?

[illzoni]

Yes, under braking the weight would push forward and load the tongue. However, at the same time the bike would be loading the front end as the rear got lighter (think stoppie). The added weight of the trailer may increase stopping distance, but the tongue weight shouldn't be a problem--may even feel smoother.

Thid may not be the same thing...
Years ago I had a large friend on the back (~240#). As he held the grab rails, the ST1100 felt very stable under braking with reduced dive. I would guess a trailer would feel similar.

When I'm on the laptop later (vs phone now) I'll have to check out that forum.

[iride]

I am sure I am pulling over 200 LBS,,, The S/O packs the kitchen sink...
Never say never on a bike, Over the years I have said I will never have a windshield,Highway pegs,saddlebags, floorboards, Pull a trailer,and last Never get married again,,,,LOL:eek:
Mike
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e292/melaniesartor/Taosvacation012.jpg

[Texas]

My concern is the max load of the ST. Just like with a truck that has a maximum towing capacity, the ST has one too. What is that number though? Motorcycles were not designed to tow, so the manufacturers do not give any kind of numbers on that. We are a one motorcycle, no car family. Keeping the ST in tip-top condition is #1 for me. I rely on it for getting to work, getting groceries, or anything else. We mostly ride two-up, so there is that extra added weight. I am sure I could pull 500 lbs if I wanted to, but how many miles would I get out of the drive-train, or the clutch. There is also the brakes. The brakes were not designed to stop an extra 500-700 lbs. They can do it, but expect to have much longer stopping distances, and replace those pads much more often. My goal is to add a trailer that we can use every week, but will not take away from the life of the ST, or add any significant maintenance.

Due to my vehicle situation, my goals are probably different from other people. For me, lightness and safety, while giving me a trailer that is multifunctional is top priority.

Texas

[Rtrip9]

im right there with you guys I am working on a fiberglass one right now to, I have the mold made and the top made, I need to figure out where to get a 27-38 inch axles kit though anybody know that part or where did you guys get you undercarage from that is what i need to finish mine. I will defently post pics later on and good luck on your builds

[Lowrider]

I guess if you guys think the ST1300 is too wimpy, I could set it up to pull with my Victory...that thing is a brute....all kinds of low end torque and big Brembo brakes up front...I think it will pull stumps if it can get traction!!

I gotta believe the ST is up to the task and not get too worse for wear in the process. I really don't think 400 lbs rolling weight is a big load for one up behind a V4...my concern is braking, more than pulling.

[Texas]

I need to figure out where to get a 27-38 inch axles kit though anybody know that part or where did you guys get you undercarage from that is what i need to finish mine.


This would work well for you:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200335740_200335740&issearch=224222

These are the same axles I am using for mine. Total length of the two axles put together is only 17".

Texas

[Lowrider]

It was my misfortune to get stuck in a traffic consolidation in Baltimore today. With our new governor we don't have traffic jams anymore...they are just periods where we all come together for the good of the few!!

Anyway, several cars ahead was a red Wing (NJ Plates) pulling a huge trailer with stuff straped all over it. I managed to squeeze between some of the consolidated cars and pull up next to him. After some complaining about the traffic situation, I asked him how much his trailer weighed and said he didn't know, but probably around 800 pounds and it really killed his gas mileage. He said once he got moving on the highway, the trailer was not a problem, but it was no fun in town. We parted ways with a low wave and a nod, as he went winging North and I to a meeting...I hate Baltimore!!

[BHarris001]

Would adding electric trailer brakes be an option. I'm not building a trailer but just for curiosity.....:biker:

[lddave]

I had given some thought to a all aluminum trailer, but the axles are steel, and I don't know how well that would match up to a aluminum frame.
Texas

My horse trailer is aluminum with steel axles.

[Texas]

Would adding electric trailer brakes be an option. I'm not building a trailer but just for curiosity.....:biker:

I'm sure you could, but it only adds more weight to the trailer. Also, you would not be able to run 8" wheels, so there would be the added weight for larger wheels, tires and hub.

Again, it all depends on what you goal is. There are many heavy trailers out there. The options for heavy trailers are vast. However, it is slim pickings to find a lightweight trailer that is multifuntional. I have found that it means making my own trailer to get one the way I want.

Texas

[DRAFT1]

Not sure what your looking for but this is what I did. There are lots of guys with input on this same subject under the Farkles/trailer on this site. Here was my build which has been good for me. Hope this helps.
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=320214&postcount=15

[Lowrider]

David, Very nice set up and thanks for giving us a look!!

It appears that the tongue is the HF length. Have you had any issues with that length? I've seen where some folks believe that a 20" extension makes the trailer pull a lot better. With a lot of miles under your belt pulling the trailer, I value you opinion. How much weight do you usually pull?

Also, does your hitch attach at the muffler bolt point or elsewhere...if so, where?

Thanks,

Joe

[DRAFT1]

David, Very nice set up and thanks for giving us a look!!

It appears that the tongue is the HF length. Have you had any issues with that length? I've seen where some folks believe that a 20" extension makes the trailer pull a lot better. With a lot of miles under your belt pulling the trailer, I value you opinion. How much weight do you usually pull?

Also, does your hitch attach at the muffler bolt point or elsewhere...if so, where?

Thanks,

Joe

Thanks Joe,
I could not be happier with the way it pulls. If I did it all over again, I would build the same way. Although the width is some what narrower than most, it has not given me any problems. I keep my air pressure at 20lbs. This keeps the trailer from having to much bounce in it. I have checked tires and hubs after pulling for 250 miles plus at interstate speeds exeding 80mph and both would be cool to the touch. The key, I believe is to pack modestly and correctly so that it is not weighted down and the load is somewhat over and in front of the trailer tires. I have a fish scale to check the weight, usually about 20 to 25lbs at the tongue. As far as the width, I might would have made it about 3" wider. This just gives it a better stance in sharper turns, but if your not trying to drag a knee (which I don't when pulling trailer) it will follow you just fine. The main things for me is to remember your pulling a trailer; don't ride in the sport bike mode when doing so; pack it correctly. Following these rules have always made a safe ride for me. Hope this helps you. We have lots of other discussions on this issue through out the trailer thread. If I can help, please let me know. Your question about total weight. I have not weighed this trailer nor my loads, but if I were to guess the trailer is about 130 lbs. and the load about 50 to 80 lbs. Here is a thread showing pics of 10 day trip out west with what I had packed in and on the bike. I also have a small 12 pack cooler mounted at the front of the trailer. http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=456539&postcount=14

Thanks,
David

[Lowrider]

Thanks David for all the info and pictures!!

Looks like you were not overloaded and probably had room left over too. It's great to know the trailer is stable at pretty high speeds and that it didn't kill you gas mileage that bad. I'm going to jump on mine in the next week or so and I hope it turns out a nice as yours!!

Thanks again,

Joe

[Texas]

In my quest to decrease rolling resistance as much as possible, I have changed the direction I was going to go with axle/hubs/wheels.

Because the torsion axle was not going to absorb any shock below 500 lbs, I have decided to not use any suspension what-so-ever. I think that most people will find that even when removing a leaf out of their leaf suspension system, they still are not getting any benefit, unless they are running with a heavy load.

Again, my loads will be light. I will not run with more than 200 lbs, so to decrease trailer weight and rolling resistance, I have decided to use 20"x2.125" Wheels that can each handle a load of 180 lbs. This will give me a total of 360 lbs, and the trailer should not weigh at 60 lbs or less dry by the time I am finished.

I will keep everyone updated.

Texas

[Mcreviver]

I live about 20 miles from Worthington Trailers near Muncy, PA. They specialize in aluminum trailers. I may stop by to ask them if they are interested in designing a light weight trailer for motorcycle use. They have to keep the price under (fill in the blank.)
Want two styles? One enclosed and one open stake?

[Texas]

I live about 20 miles from Worthington Trailers near Muncy, PA. They specialize in aluminum trailers. I may stop by to ask them if they are interested in designing a light weight trailer for motorcycle use. They have to keep the price under (fill in the blank.)
Want two styles? One enclosed and one open stake?

I really feel there is a market for such a trailer out there. Myself, I would not even consider one that wasn't super light. Because of the effect these trailers have on gas mileage, keeping it low, with little rolling resistance is important to me as well.

Texas

[Lowrider]

David,

Good advise and I'll keep the help offer in the front of my mind.

Thanks again!!

Joe

[wheeliedude03]

You guys are way too funny... there's a great trailer out there for the ST and heres the
web site... http://piggybacker.stehltow.com/
For about $700 its a cool trailer that holds alot of that camping gear that usally sits on the S.O. seat!
Ride hard yet safe.
JB

[Lowrider]

I live about 20 miles from Worthington Trailers near Muncy, PA. They specialize in aluminum trailers. I may stop by to ask them if they are interested in designing a light weight trailer for motorcycle use. They have to keep the price under (fill in the blank.)
Want two styles? One enclosed and one open stake?

I bet there is a market too, but you gotta wonder how many others would jump in too.

Materials $400
Labor $200
Profit and overhead $200

Retail $895 on sale for $850 most of the time!!

That could work!! Damn...I'll sell em for that..I think!!

[Texas]

This weekend I cut the tubes for the frame. As you will see in the picture attached, this is the basic layout of the frame (not welded yet). You will also see the 20" wheels that I plan on using.

Texas

[Lowrider]

I'm getting ready to start my trailer hitch and I am wondering what the conventional wisdom is regarding the height above or below the bike axle centerline. It appears that most commercial hitches are above the axle centerline by a couple inches which is contrary to tractor logic where the draw point is always below the rear axle centerline to place pull/pressure on the front wheels.

Given the low weights involved with bike trailers, it may not make any differance one way or the other....just wondering what you folks think?

BTW, the trailer axle centerline is about 9.5 inches using a 12" wheel. I'm thinking the hitch draw point should be a little above that point which puts it above the bike axle centerline. Maybe that is the answer to my question.

A penny for your thoughts!!

[iride]

It depends on the tongue,,,,, I have fond that if my trailer tongue is not level, Or is tilted up. The trailer will weave,,,
Mike

[Capt_Gruuvy]

You guys are way too funny... there's a great trailer out there for the ST and heres the
web site... http://piggybacker.stehltow.com/
For about $700 its a cool trailer that holds alot of that camping gear that usally sits on the S.O. seat!
Ride hard yet safe.
JB

Where's the fun in that ?

Part of the deal is in the making. Some people don't want to build and that's cool. But, this group of wing nuts seem to like to make it themselves.

[Trekker]

Cool project Texas. Where did you source your wheels from? I agree with your thoughts about not needing the larger wheels, yet I would still be concerned about no suspension, but that's just me. I like the simple suspension on the Rack and Roll (http://rackandroll.com/) trailer. (too bad it's WAY too much $$$)

[Texas]

Cool project Texas. Where did you source your wheels from? I agree with your thoughts about not needing the larger wheels, yet I would still be concerned about no suspension, but that's just me. I like the simple suspension on the Rack and Roll (http://rackandroll.com/) trailer. (too bad it's WAY too much $$$)

Thank you Dave. I think I am breaking new ground in some areas. The wheels are actually 'cart' wheels purchased from Northern Tool, but unlike most cart wheels that are solid rubber, these are bicycle style tires with tubes. They are huge hubs that each hold 180 lbs, which is more than sufficient for me (total of 360 lbs). After emailing NT, they do not support using these on the highway, so I will be a guinea pig when it comes to this. I will do a lot of testing with it before I put anything of real value on it, or take it on any long trip. However, several people have used these for horse buggies, and they say these wheels are very well made and have reported no problems. The only real concern I can think of will be the bearings. They will require constant monitoring, and lubrication. But for the trade off on weight and cost, it will be worth it to me. Also, if a wheel breaks, they are cheap to replace. If these do end up working, I plan on always keeping an extra set at home, and caring an extra wheel and grease on long trips.

When it comes to suspension, you will find most people that comment that the suspension on their homebuilt trailers do not even activate due to the fact that the suspension is set at 300 lbs. or higher. They say if they just run with a little less pressure in the tires, that acts as their suspension.

The trailer you show in your like is a awesome looking trailer. Yes it is expensive, but I suppose that is because of it's uniqueness, lightness and low rolling resistance. The wheels are very cool. I wish I had the $600 to buy a pair of them. I am sure they are much better wheels than the ones I am using, but then again, I only paid $40 per wheel with tire.

Due to work requiring a lot from me lately, and being out of town so much, it will probably be another month before I can pick back up on the project. I am very excited about it and hate the fact that I do not have more time to work on it right now. Designing and building this trailer is so much more fun than just buying a trailer (for any price) that I know I am not going to be happy with anyway. Also, there will be a lot of personal satisfaction when it is finally done.

Texas

[Lowrider]

Texas,

Looks like even with work responsibilities you are making steady progress!

I agree with you about the suspension. I'm having a hard time finding anything rated low enough to actually provide action with a 150 to 250 pound load. The lightest I have found is 300 lb per side which will not really give much action with a typical camping gear load of maybe 60 lbs max.

I spent some time yesterday looking in auto supply stores for coil over shocks with no luck. I found a bicycle at Walley Mart that had a light coil over shock in the front for suspension, but it was such a of junk from our communist friends in the East that it wouldn't have held up very long.

I have thought hard about using the Rack and Roll type suspension and while I like it a lot, I think I'm back to the HF trailer kit with one leaf removed as the easiest and cheapest solution. Run the tires a bit soft and things will probably be just fine since I don't plan on hauling a china closet in the trailer anyway.

Keep plowing new ground and good luck...I'm back to designing and building my hitch!!!

Joe

[Gti20vturbo]

Update on mine. Its an HF trailer with ply decking (Aluminum was $200). I am waiting to purchase the car topper I actually want (Yakima) because of its looks and paint finish (it matches my ST) and its very aerodynamic. The tongue is extended about 11 inches (just by mounting it forward) and I removed one of the springs. I have the SS hub caps and I need to decide if I am going with a swivel hitch or not. Total cost so far is just over $230. The cooler mount will be made after the luggage box is mounted. I didnt narrow the trailer because it is just about perfect for the top box I want (40"). Hell if I am going to pull a trailer it might as well be one that never makes me wish it were bigger. :) I have nice LED trailer lights that I plan to mount right to the luggage box itself.

[Capt_Gruuvy]

... I like the simple suspension on the Rack and Roll (http://rackandroll.com/) trailer...

I can build that.

[Trekker]

I can build that.


I think I might like to build something like that too.... but I am not sure where to source the wheels & shocks from. This kind of vehicle requires decent wheel bearings, and the spring over/shocks do not need to hold up a 4x4 truck.

[Lowrider]

I think I might like to build something like that too.... but I am not sure where to source the wheels & shocks from. This kind of vehicle requires decent wheel bearings, and the spring over/shocks do not need to hold up a 4x4 truck.



My problem exactly!! I've already killed too many brain cells over this thing and I don't really have many to spare!! I'm being sidetracked by silly issues and progress is slow. Trips to LA and San Antonio in the next two weeks will further delay my efforts.....you guys keep up the good work!!

[Gti20vturbo]

As light as the load will be in most of these trailers I am almost willing to bet you could make a playwood base to fit your favorite car topper. You could laminate 2 sheets of 1/2 inch marine grade, bolt the topper to it, bolt on the Torsion Axles listed earlier, makes a tongue and call it good. If anything the HF trailer is WAY overbuilt for the load it will carry.

[georgeorge]

As light as the load will be in most of these trailers I am almost willing to bet you could make a playwood base to fit your favorite car topper. You could laminate 2 sheets of 1/2 inch marine grade, bolt the topper to it, bolt on the Torsion Axles listed earlier, makes a tongue and call it good. If anything the HF trailer is WAY overbuilt for the load it will carry.

What I did was attach the cargo box directly to the frame of the trailer, then cut a plywood floor for inside the box, attached some angle iron down both sides of the plywood for bungees to hook to, and then carpeted the plywood. It came out real nice. and now I don't have to worry about anything of weight put inside it breaking the plastic bottom of the the cargo box because the floor INSIDE protects it.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w169/bkorten/P1010009.jpg

[Capt_Gruuvy]

I think I might like to build something like that too.... but I am not sure where to source the wheels & shocks from. This kind of vehicle requires decent wheel bearings, and the spring over/shocks do not need to hold up a 4x4 truck.

I was thinking about 21" Harley front rims, skinny, which I can lace myself.

I'll pop the shock assemblies from an old springer front end we have lying around.

2 x 2 tube and some custom hitch nonsense for length and mount the box on smaller cross members. Quick and easy ...

[Texas]

I was thinking about 21" Harley front rims, skinny, which I can lace myself.

I'll pop the shock assemblies from an old springer front end we have lying around.

2 x 2 tube and some custom hitch nonsense for length and mount the box on smaller cross members. Quick and easy ...

Mark,

I would like to see that. Please post pictures of your progress, costs, and where you are able to get parts. Originally I was going to use some skinny motorcycle wheels, but I could not find any that didn't cost an arm and a leg. Unfortunately I don't have any parts laying around that I can use, so I have to buy everything that I need...all the way down to the Grade 8 washers.

Texas

[iride]

Man-0-man you guys got me to thinking,,,, I got some 16 inch EX 500 wheels
setting in the garage,,,, Maybe adapt them to my old shoreline trailer/////
Mike

Mark,

I would like to see that. Please post pictures of your progress, costs, and where you are able to get parts. Originally I was going to use some skinny motorcycle wheels, but I could not find any that didn't cost an arm and a leg. Unfortunately I don't have any parts laying around that I can use, so I have to buy everything that I need...all the way down to the Grade 8 washers.

Texas

[Lowrider]

I was thinking about 21" Harley front rims, skinny, which I can lace myself.

I'll pop the shock assemblies from an old springer front end we have lying around.

2 x 2 tube and some custom hitch nonsense for length and mount the box on smaller cross members. Quick and easy ...

I was thinking 1" x 1" steel tubing. My old 6,000 car trailer used 2x2 for a frame with 2x6 wood decking and it's hauled my 9,000 lb tractor too. I guess it really depends upon wall thickness. If I had a TIG torch I'd be using AL and not steel. I'm using a cat 1 tractor top link for the trailer end and a 1/2" pin on my bike hitch with the hole in the pin for a pad lock and security cable instead of chains. I still don't have what makes me feel comfortable for springs. I hate to see you tear up Springer trees for the trailer, but if it's what ya got...go for it!!

[Texas]

I was thinking 1" x 1" steel tubing. My old 6,000 car trailer used 2x2 for a frame with 2x6 wood decking and it's hauled my 9,000 lb tractor too. I guess it really depends upon wall thickness. If I had a TIG torch I'd be using AL and not steel. I'm using a cat 1 tractor top link for the trailer end and a 1/2" pin on my bike hitch with the hole in the pin for a pad lock and security cable instead of chains. I still don't have what makes me feel comfortable for springs. I hate to see you tear up Springer trees for the trailer, but if it's what ya got...go for it!!

I am using 1" square tubing for my trailer. It is 1/8" thick, which is plenty strong enough for the load I plan on carrying. Also, my aluminum decking is 1/8" thick.

Texas

[Capt_Gruuvy]

You would throw up if you saw what I had sitting around in the shop ... including an original 1936 console.

I got wheels, springs about 200 gas tanks and I lost count of fenders.

What I started to think about was tricking out the trailer with softail fenders ....

I just got a new tig .... my brain is thinking up all sorts of things to make and it will only get worse with time.

[georgeorge]

I just got a new tig ....

That means.. you just became everyones best friend.

Hint: Don't let anyone know that you know how to actually use it.

[ST1300 Alicia]

Capt Gruuvy Old Buddy Old Pal. You remember Me, Alicia, from Turbo Tom's Tech SToc don't You? Any Time you Need Some Help Inventorying Your Treasures, Just Give Me a Call and I will Be Glad to Help.

Sincerely
Alicia in Clovis

[Texas]

You would throw up if you saw what I had sitting around in the shop ... including an original 1936 console.

I got wheels, springs about 200 gas tanks and I lost count of fenders.

What I started to think about was tricking out the trailer with softail fenders ....

I just got a new tig .... my brain is thinking up all sorts of things to make and it will only get worse with time.

It sounds like you not only have almost all of the parts that you need to build a very custom trailer, but also one that will be beautiful. I for one really look forward to seeing it.

Texas

[Trekker]

You would throw up if you saw what I had sitting around in the shop ... including an original 1936 console.

I got wheels, springs about 200 gas tanks and I lost count of fenders.

What I started to think about was tricking out the trailer with softail fenders ....

I just got a new tig .... my brain is thinking up all sorts of things to make and it will only get worse with time.

Go Captain, Go Captain! :bannana:bannana:bannana Weld that frame!