question re OEM BT020 tires

[SporTnTR]

My dealer hasn't heard of the term "F", but says his books show the BT020 has an OEM specific listing in addition to a conventional listing.

Here is his wording:
they have a chart with conventional sizes, then they have the OEM chart that is bike specific

My question is, do you think his OEM chart are the F's? I don't want to end up with the U's by mistake.

Thanks in advance guys, and hope you are all having a good summer.

[Killtimer]

The OEM listing is the correct one, "F". Most catalogues don't use the letter distinction. The general replacement tire is the "U". You can check the Bridgestone web site for the numbers if you need more ammunition. :)

[crazykz]

Ran into the same thing. Yes, the OEM ones are the F series of the tire.

Curt

[Actionfigurejoe]

Parts Unlimited carries the "F" tire. $170 list price. The regular B020 is about $40 cheaper.

[stg1]

www.swmototires.com shows OEM BT020 rear @ 109.95 and the front $96.95. I wonder if those are the "F"s. Also no freight on 2 tires.

[crazykz]

www.swmototires.com shows OEM BT020 rear @ 109.95 and the front $96.95. I wonder if those are the "F"s. Also no freight on 2 tires.

SQMoto carries the "F"'s for that price but you need to specfically ask for them. I do believe they spell it out on their site also.

Front OEM (http://arizonamoto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=SWMT&Product_Code=30-1076&Category_Code=BT020)

Rear OEM (http://arizonamoto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=SWMT&Product_Code=30-1077&Category_Code=BT020)

Curt

[Actionfigurejoe]

The Parts Unlimited book designates "U" as OEM. The "F" is listed at the bottom of the page as a specific ST1300 tire.

[LandRover]

OK ... I need some help here.

I went to purchace a new rear tire before a trip to Deals Gap. I had 9k on the original, and though it still looked decent, I didn't want to chance it. Without checking with the collective (didn't think there was a reason to; I was replacing with a new OEM!), I located the correct tire, the correct size, paid my money ($104.00), and went on my way.

The following Saturday, I went to the dealer, had the tire installed, the brake pads replaced, splines lubed, and a general overall "health" check done. You'll notice that the tire dealer (Cycle Gear) and my MC dealer didn't mention the distiction between "F" and "U" to me. In fairness, I didn't research (had no idea that I need to!).

Well, I went on my trip (approx. 1900 miles), and the tires performed flawlessly. I-75 and all the twistys associated with Deals Gap. Great trip. In the next 7 weeks, I proceeded to put another 6k on the tires.

With 7700 miles on the "wrong" tire, it's still going strong, I get no weird handling characteristics, and to be honest, I don't notice ANY difference between the two tires. Maybe it's my riding style, or the fact that I seldom 2-up (3% of the time, at best), but Friends, I see no difference. YMMV So what gives; why the hullabaloo about the two molds?

I won't concern myself with the distinction when it comes time again in about 4k miles. Unless someone here has a horror story, I'll go ahead and get the lesser priced of the two again, and just enjoy the ride ...

[Killtimer]

Well, I went on my trip (approx. 1900 miles), and the tires performed flawlessly. I-75 and all the twistys associated with Deals Gap. Great trip. In the next 7 weeks, I proceeded to put another 6k on the tires.

With 7700 miles on the "wrong" tire, it's still going strong, I get no weird handling characteristics, and to be honest, I don't notice ANY difference between the two tires. Maybe it's my riding style, or the fact that I seldom 2-up (3% of the time, at best), but Friends, I see no difference. YMMV So what gives; why the hullabaloo about the two molds?

They're totally different tires...... Different belts, different tread depth, different load rating, different construction. All the info is on the Bridgestone site. For my riding, the "U" designation gets about 1/2 to 2/3 the miles. Less in the heat.

[MikeP1300]

OK ... I need some help here.

I went to purchace a new rear tire before a trip to Deals Gap. I had 9k on the original, and though it still looked decent, I didn't want to chance it. Without checking with the collective (didn't think there was a reason to; I was replacing with a new OEM!), I located the correct tire, the correct size, paid my money ($104.00), and went on my way.

The following Saturday, I went to the dealer, had the tire installed, the brake pads replaced, splines lubed, and a general overall "health" check done. You'll notice that the tire dealer (Cycle Gear) and my MC dealer didn't mention the distiction between "F" and "U" to me. In fairness, I didn't research (had no idea that I need to!).

Well, I went on my trip (approx. 1900 miles), and the tires performed flawlessly. I-75 and all the twistys associated with Deals Gap. Great trip. In the next 7 weeks, I proceeded to put another 6k on the tires.

With 7700 miles on the "wrong" tire, it's still going strong, I get no weird handling characteristics, and to be honest, I don't notice ANY difference between the two tires. Maybe it's my riding style, or the fact that I seldom 2-up (3% of the time, at best), but Friends, I see no difference. YMMV So what gives; why the hullabaloo about the two molds?

I won't concern myself with the distinction when it comes time again in about 4k miles. Unless someone here has a horror story, I'll go ahead and get the lesser priced of the two again, and just enjoy the ride ...


My experience with the U 020 was not as pleasant as yours. more 2up riding and mine evaporated in about 3k miles. It was paper thin when I took it off. Easily got 8k out of the OE F.

[MikeP1300]

OK ... I need some help here.

I went to purchace a new rear tire before a trip to Deals Gap. I had 9k on the original, and though it still looked decent, I didn't want to chance it. Without checking with the collective (didn't think there was a reason to; I was replacing with a new OEM!), I located the correct tire, the correct size, paid my money ($104.00), and went on my way.

The following Saturday, I went to the dealer, had the tire installed, the brake pads replaced, splines lubed, and a general overall "health" check done. You'll notice that the tire dealer (Cycle Gear) and my MC dealer didn't mention the distiction between "F" and "U" to me. In fairness, I didn't research (had no idea that I need to!).

Well, I went on my trip (approx. 1900 miles), and the tires performed flawlessly. I-75 and all the twistys associated with Deals Gap. Great trip. In the next 7 weeks, I proceeded to put another 6k on the tires.

With 7700 miles on the "wrong" tire, it's still going strong, I get no weird handling characteristics, and to be honest, I don't notice ANY difference between the two tires. Maybe it's my riding style, or the fact that I seldom 2-up (3% of the time, at best), but Friends, I see no difference. YMMV So what gives; why the hullabaloo about the two molds?

I won't concern myself with the distinction when it comes time again in about 4k miles. Unless someone here has a horror story, I'll go ahead and get the lesser priced of the two again, and just enjoy the ride ...


My experience with the U 020 was not as pleasant as yours. Mostly 2up riding, mine evaporated in about 3k miles. It was paper thin when I took it off. Easily got 8k out of the OE F.

[Actionfigurejoe]

I decided to mount the "F" tire. I got a nice discount from my dealer on the rear and purchased the front from a guy on US1300.com that didn't need it. The original tire lasted 8800 miles but would've gone another 500. I mounted the new rear last week because of 1000 mile road trip between Friday and Sunday. The front tire still has a lot of tread depth remaining. I heard the U tire doesn't last as long so I ponied up the extra $$$.

[SporTnTR]

Here are a couple of your posts, [two dif ones], that conflict, unless I'm just too tired tonight and my brain isn't working right.



<<The OEM listing is the correct one, "F". Most catalogues don't use the letter distinction. The general replacement tire is the "U". You can check the Bridgestone web site for the numbers if you need more ammunition.>>

<<The Parts Unlimited book designates "U" as OEM. The "F" is listed at the bottom of the page as a specific ST1300 tire.>>


So I'm not too sure still. Don't think we will be able to order from swmototire and still save cash in Canada, or will we? Is it still free shipping to Canada?

I guess my concern is that this other dealer may not be using the same OEM info, for eg. if they get them from Parts Unlimited and order OEM then might get a U according to one of the posts above. [which doesn't jive with the other one], so still confused. i wonder why they don't just call them OEM F's so it wouldn't be so confusing?

I know for sure I don't want the U's with my riding style. I only got 4000miles out of the F's and only have 4200 mi on the rear Z6. One dif though is that on the very edges of the Z6 there is still lots of depth although my elephants are almost gone on both sides. The OEM 020 was almost bald there too. Anyone else notice the very shallow tread depth just either side of centre on the Z6's? I wonder what's up with that? Seems deliberate to me. No reason that i can think of other than to have to replace sooner. I still have fair to poor centre tread too. My front Z6 has lasted noticably longer than the fr 020 did though. The Z6's stick well enough when new and up to about 50% worn, but they make bike weave. Also, now that the rear Z6 is getting so worn, it is more slippery than the 020 was at same stage.
So have decided to go back to 020's.....or, I wonder if the Pirelli Stratos are a worthy boot for the ST? Anyone try em'?

[Killtimer]

SporTnTR

The trouble is that the 020 in that size is also the OEM tire on a few other bikes. The Kawi Mean Streak calls for the "U" tire as replacement, the ST the "F". Part's Canada, MotoVan and the rest of the Canadian wholesalers have an OEM section in the cat. Just make sure that your dealer/supplier finds the ST1300 entry for the OEM section and all will be well. Regrettably SWmototire will not ship to Canada. Last I heard CalSportTouring would, but you paid shipping which negated any savings. We're basically screwed up here for tires. :shrug2: There is a dealer in Edmonton that will try and be competitive and will ship at your expense. Where are you at?

[LandRover]

Thanks for the replys! :D

I reread my post, and I wasn't clear, and my apologies for this oversight. I understand the physical differences between the two designations, I guess it's the empirical differences I don't see. I've heard that some folks are having the "wrong" tire evaporate in 3k, but that's very subjective, isn't it? Some folks will run a tire till the cords spark, others will only run it till it gets dirty.

I'll use the tire till I am not comfortable with it's performance (no different than most anyone else, I guess). The money I have to pay only reflects materials needed to maintain safety in a sport that I love. This doesn't mean that I'm rich, just that I don't quibble over ten bucks. If the "F" or the "U" is available, and the price is in line, and I need the tire, I'll buy it. I would rather ride, than worry excessively about my shoes.

Not trying to be difficult, I'm just lost on this whole tire issue. I'll admit to a certain amount of concern when I realized I had gotten the "wrong" tire, but the concern has proven to be misplaced.

Please forgive my ramblings on this subjust; I'm not looking for a flame war. I guess I'll just go off and enjoy the ride, and try not to get in the way of other folks enjoyment of this sport. Again, I thank you all for taking a moment to respond, and wish you well on the roads. See you on the streets! :D

[crazykz]

Thanks for the replys! :D

I reread my post, and I wasn't clear, and my apologies for this oversight. I understand the physical differences between the two designations, I guess it's the empirical differences I don't see. I've heard that some folks are having the "wrong" tire evaporate in 3k, but that's very subjective, isn't it? Some folks will run a tire till the cords spark, others will only run it till it gets dirty.

I'll use the tire till I am not comfortable with it's performance (no different than most anyone else, I guess). The money I have to pay only reflects materials needed to maintain safety in a sport that I love. This doesn't mean that I'm rich, just that I don't quibble over ten bucks. If the "F" or the "U" is available, and the price is in line, and I need the tire, I'll buy it. I would rather ride, than worry excessively about my shoes.

Not trying to be difficult, I'm just lost on this whole tire issue. I'll admit to a certain amount of concern when I realized I had gotten the "wrong" tire, but the concern has proven to be misplaced.

Please forgive my ramblings on this subjust; I'm not looking for a flame war. I guess I'll just go off and enjoy the ride, and try not to get in the way of other folks enjoyment of this sport. Again, I thank you all for taking a moment to respond, and wish you well on the roads. See you on the streets! :D


Thread depth and mileage corrollate here. Less thread = less mileage in this case, even though that isn't the only contributing factor. All the posts I've read on the "U" series say it lasts half as long and when I accidentally got a "U" I noticed the difference and sent it back.

Here's my experience with ordering the wrong one from SWMotoTires:
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2691&highlight=BT020

They were great about it but I realized it was my mistake so I paid to have the one shipped back and the new one shipped out. I didn't ask for them to pay the shipping because I just ordered them online and didn't call them where they may have told me the difference. Now I know.

Curt

[SporTnTR]

Thanks Killtimer, now I got it.

Anyone try the Pirelli's yet?

[Killtimer]

Thanks for the replys! :D

I reread my post, and I wasn't clear, and my apologies for this oversight.

Not a problem. We tend to forget that we all expect different things out of the experience.

I think the big problem is that the "U" tires wear out faster in the center. ;) Some of us, through geographic, and some of us because of how we ride (LD crowd) never use up the outside two thirds of our tires. I'm serious here. If you're living where you can wear out a tire evenly, the "U" might not be a bad choice for 1-up riding. It does grip better and the pyramidal shape quickens the turn in. If you ride a lot of straight line/sweepers loaded heavy in the heat, the centre third of the "U" is going to disappear IME. The other thing that would concern me (maybe) a tiny bit would be culpability on the manufacturers part in the case of a defect related tire failure. Could they argue that because the "F" tire was listed as the replacement for the ST that using a "U" tire voided warranty/liability? I have no idea, just curious.