30 Minute Oil Change (engine/final drive)

[crazykz]

Hi All,

Although I realize changing your oil at 4000 miles when running synthetic is a bit nuts I do it anyway. I also change the final drive oil at the same time so I don't have to remember two change intervals. I just did my eigth oil change (3 were done by dealers) at 32000 and I've not got it down to where I can do it in under 30 minutes. Not that I rush through them but I decided to time myself tonight. Now this 30 minutes means nothing out and at the end you are cleaned up and ready to sit down to dinner. The only prequisite is that the bike has been warmed up and is cool enough to work on at this point.

Things you need:
17mm socket (3/8" drive)
3/8" drive ratchet
3mm allen wrench
oil wrench cap (3/8" drive)
oil drain pan (one that can store the old oil)
coffee can (to drain final drive oil into)
2 feet of aluminum foil (used to drain oil filter oil)
rag for cleaning up oil

oil filter
2 crush washers (one for each drain plug)
5 quarts of oil
1 quart final drive oil

(Assumes you've warmed up the bike but is now cool enough to work on)

Put bike on center stand get out tool kit with rachet & socket
Put pan under bike and take out drain plug
Get coffee can and place under final drive drain plug then remove plug
While everything is draining get out 3mm wrench and remove access panel and remove cover to access fill plug.
Remove fill plug and put in funnel
Get out oil for engine and final drive (make sure the seals are removed so they are ready to pour). Also unwrap filter.
Get crush washers
Put final drive drain plug back in with new crush washer.
Remove fill plug and fill final drive until oil starts to come out hole. Put fill plug back in, wipe up and take can with you.
Put crush washer on drain plug and pull out pan.
Put drain plug in and tighten.
Put bike on side stand and form foil into a drain pan with one end wrap around header.
Ratchet and filter wrench cap. Slide cap onto filter and then put rachet into cap and remove filter. Let oil drain into foil pan.
Drain filter oil into foil drain pan
Put a little new oil on the new filter gasket.
Do any clean up at this point like spilled oil, etc. Put away final drive oil bottle.
Put new filter on and finger tighten.
Put filter cap on and tighten filter.
Remove foil pan and drain into oil pan.
Pour some oil into fill funnel. While you're waiting for the oil to drain down in the funnel toss the foil, put away the coffee can, close up the drain pan, and put away the tools.
Pour in the rest of the oil to ~4 quarts. Put the fill cap back on. I usually put in around 4 and then add what I need.
Put bike on center stand and bring up to temp. While it is doing that clean up any dirty rags and go in and clean up your hands.
Turn off the bike once up to temp and while you're waiting the suggested 3 minutes for the oil level to stabilize do any other clean up.
Take out filler cap and put funnel in and get oil ready. Bring level up after the 3 minutes is up.
Put fill cap back in, then put cylinder cover back on, then put access panel on along with the rivet.
Put away funnel and engine oil bottle(s) if necessary.
Done. You're cleaned up and everything is put away.


I'm sure this will vary for people and this isn't for everyone. Most of the time I take my time and inspect everything but sometimes you just want to get it done. No one ever waits until the last minute to change their oil. ;)

This really isn't instructions I'm just sharing my pit stop speed oil change for the fun of it. Follow your manual and do it correctly.

Curt

[Mark]

:eek: :bow1: :bow1: :bow1: :bow1: :bow1: :eek:
I am amazed an in fear of your oil fluid changing skills... :)


Mark

[crazykz]

:eek: :bow1: :bow1: :bow1: :bow1: :bow1: :eek:
I am amazed an in fear of your oil fluid changing skills... :)


Mark

Flattery will get you everywhere. Sarcasm will get you an @*** whopin'. :D

I have no idea why I posted this but maybe someone will find it entertaining. I guess the count stands at one. Glad you liked it.

Curt

[sherob]

Where do you get your washers? I don't want to go to the STealer for these... me: "How much?"... STealer: "Ben"... me: "Ben?"... STealer: "Ben Dover!" :eek:

[sttourer]

Where do you get your washers? I don't want to go to the STealer for these... me: "How much?"... STealer: "Ben"... me: "Ben?"... STealer: "Ben Dover!" :eek:

My stealer charges me $0.21 for the washers. I didn't think that was too bad....

What does your stealer get for them?

[crazykz]

I bought a bag of them from the dealer and it wasn't much at all. I don't go to the dealer for many things but I do for those.

Curt

[sherob]

I think that's about right :confused: Just thought there might be somewhere else to get them cheaper with less of a hassle ;)

[crazykz]

I think that's about right :confused: Just thought there might be somewhere else to get them cheaper with less of a hassle ;)

Well there may be but I haven't found it. Honestly a lot of cars are doing this also now and I imagine that the drain plug it a standard size so you may be able to get them from an oil change place or a car dealer. Might be worth asking.

Curt

[sherob]

Ordered my filters from HDL while I had some other things on the way... forgot to even think about those babies :eek: It's just a hassle going in to the STealer parts dept. :( I hate walking by the pretty bikes ;) Think I can be prosecuted for practicing Bikamy? :eek:

[GRN]

Think I can be prosecuted for practicing Bikamy? :eek:

Nope, just don't try to ride two at the same time!

[CrashTestDanny]

Hi All,

Although I realize changing your oil at 4000 miles when running synthetic is a bit nuts I do it anyway. I also change the final drive oil at the same time so I don't have to remember two change intervals. I just did my eigth oil change (3 were done by dealers) at 32000 and I've not got it down to where I can do it in under 30 minutes. Not that I rush through them but I decided to time myself tonight. Now this 30 minutes means nothing out and at the end you are cleaned up and ready to sit down to dinner. The only prequisite is that the bike has been warmed up and is cool enough to work on at this point.



Thanks Curt! I'm about to do my 4000 mile oil change tomorrow (first was done by the STealer) and I haven't been able to get my hands on a service manual yet. Can you tell me where to locate the filter?

Also, I had someone at the STealer tell me that Fram oil filters will ruin my engine. Needless to say, I'm a little skeptical of their motives. Anyone have any experience with the Fram filters?

TIA!

[Biddyman]

Also, I had someone at the STealer tell me that Fram oil filters will ruin my engine. Needless to say, I'm a little skeptical of their motives. Anyone have any experience with the Fram filters?

This should give you some good reading:

http://www.twocreeks.net/toby/oil_filters/index.shtml

[CrashTestDanny]

This should give you some good reading:

http://www.twocreeks.net/toby/oil_filters/index.shtml

Well, looks like I'm headed back to the STealer today then...

[crazykz]

I use to use the Purolator filter but Purolator specfically stated they do not recommend it for the ST so I quit using it and went back to the OEM.

I attached a pic of the filter location. It's been removed but you can see the threads for it. Just follow the oil trail back. ;)

My post on this thread shows how I fashion a pan out of foil to make this easier:
Filter Wrench for OEM Filter (http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4499&page=2&pp=20)

If you put the bike on the side stand and then go around to the right side of the bike. Look underneath the bike about where the side stand is on the bike. The filter is located between the header pipes but closer to the left header pipe at the rear of the engine.

Curt

[Pino]

Thanks for the link Biddyman.

[CrashTestDanny]

I use to use the Purolator filter but Purolator specfically stated they do not recommend it for the ST so I quit using it and went back to the OEM.

I attached a pic of the filter location. It's been removed but you can see the threads for it. Just follow the oil trail back. ;)

If you put the bike on the side stand and then go around to the right side of the bike. Look underneath the bike about where the side stand is on the bike. The filter is located between the header pipes but closer to the left header pipe at the rear of the engine.


Thanks for the help, Curt. Found the filter no problem! Wish I could say the same about removing it. Got a strap wrench around it - couldn't get it to move. Got a regular filter wrench on it - couldn't get it to move. Got a plastic end cap socket as described by a couple guys here - same crap - it just spun. Haven't found the metal end cap socket yet, so I ended up having to pour four fresh quarts of HP4 in with an old filter. :eek:

What'd those guys at the STealer do? Put it on with an air ratchet? :mad:

I was very tempted to try the screwdriver and hammer method, but using a hammer near my baby just scares me...

Anyhow, guess I'll get the end cap socket from the STealer tomorrow and try to swap the filter only this weekend.

[CrashTestDanny]

My stealer charges me $0.21 for the washers. I didn't think that was too bad....

What does your stealer get for them?

BTW - My STealer wanted $.50 for the washer and $14.38 for the filter. :eek:

Another STealer across town had the filter for $12.00 (closer to list at least) but still bent me over for $.50 for the washer. Needing an oil change now I paid it, but I also ordered some to keep in stock (and a couple cases of HP4) so the STealer can get lonely and poor.

[CrashTestDanny]

Oil's well that ends well, right? Ok - that was bad, but I figured I should let you guys know that the ordeal is over.

Got to AutoZone tonight and got a metal oil filter end socket - type F. It still tried to slip when removing the filter, so I got out the rubber mallet and hammered it on real good. That did the trick! Of course then I had trouble getting it off, but that prompted me to use the plastic piece of junk to put the new filter on - it made a great torque-limiting device.

Thanks a ton for all your help! Curt - the aluminum foil idea is the bee's knees!

[tccox]

Just one suggestion. Before changing the final drive oil I like to go for a nice long ride to get the lube nice and hot before draining it. Just warming up the engine in the garage aint gonna do it. My schedule is

Warm up engine

Change engine oil and filter

Go on ride to check for leaks and warm up final drive

change final drive lube

Oh and someone suggested on this board that you need to remove oil filler plug while oil is draining to make sure all the oil drains out.

[coldoughboy]

I appreciate your detailed directions. I found them to be very accurate. I know very little about mechanics but I found www.thefairchilds.org to be very helpful as well because they provide pictures :bow1: I have changed my oil/filter twice now with nobody getting killed or damaging the bike. Life is good!

[Biddyman]

Up here, overnight during the summer and you might get June beetles in your Pan. Don't know what it is, but they love oil. At work, they like JP8, Hyd fluid and Oil.

[racer1735]

The purpose of removing the 'fill' plug when draining the oil is simply to allow the oil to flow easier...you've alleviated whatever vacuum may be in the engine.

I put the bike on the centerstand, start the engine, then pop it into gear and let it idle at a stand still to get the engine and final drive warmed up. As long as you are careful with how you go about things, the bike isn't going anywhere.

[STeve1300]

50 of the 14MM washers for $10.50 at http://www.hondadirectline.com/
I didn't realize it was the same washer for the final drive - thanks.

[crazykz]

50 of the 14MM washers for $10.50 at http://www.hondadirectline.com/
I didn't realize it was the same washer for the final drive - thanks.

Neither did I until I drained it the first time.

Curt

[racer1735]

Just performed my first oil change on the ST. Glad I did, as I bought used w/8,000 miles and the dealer said it had just undergone a 'full service', but looking at the condition of the filter and the oil that came out I have my doubts. :confused:

Anyway, all went well until it came time to remove the filter. Just getting a cap wrench on the filter is an accomplishment in itself (damn centerstand!!)...and took forever to get enough pressure on it to actually loosen the filter itself. Then, once the filter was loose, I proceeded to drop it so it lodged between the lower fairing and the centerstand...DOH!!! :mad: And it proceeded to then drain all over anything and everything.

I concider myself to be a fairly accomplished mechanic, but this one got the best of me! :o: What was on track to be a 30 or 40 minute job ended up taking an hour and using my patience! At least it now has a belly full of MX4T ($5.99 at AutoZone) and fresh lube in the rear drive.

Off to Chicago (on 2 wheels) tomorrow!

[crazykz]

I concider myself to be a fairly accomplished mechanic, but this one got the best of me! :o: What was on track to be a 30 or 40 minute job ended up taking an hour and using my patience! At least it now has a belly full of MX4T ($5.99 at AutoZone) and fresh lube in the rear drive.

I should add that you're not going to be able to do this in 30 minutes on your first try. You have to know what to do and when to do it without looking at a sheet of paper. I had the same issues you had but it took me a few oil changes to wear I could get the filter in and out without issue. First I lay in the aluminum foil so that oil doesn't get on anything (fairing, exhaust, etc.). Then I pull the center stand down and feed the cap wrench in from there and then wiggle it onto the filter. Then I get my ratchet on the cap and break it loose to let it drain some. As it drains I unscrew it more but not all the way to try and knock some more oil out of it. Once the majority of the oil is out I pull the centerstand down and reach up in to grab the filter. I then turn it slowly until it comes off and angle it down so that it drains more out onto the aluminum foil. Then I angle it up and pull it back out and around the centerstand to remove it from the bike. Not the easiet thing to do but it's the easiest way I've found to remove it without getting oil everywhere.

Curt

[tccox]

I also remove the lower fairing (Black) whenever I change the oil. Takes 5 minutes to remove , gives me a chance to inspect for any coolant leaks and just makes changing the oil a bit easier. Just be carefull when putting it back on. Uses two different size fasteners.

[racer1735]

I pretty much new 'where I was going' with the oil change and drive shaft lube change, so didn't have to hop back and forth between the bike, paper instructions and the tool box. I had the aluminum in place and it did the job up until I dropped the filter, thus missing the aluminum (my bad for that). Next time, I'll leave the bike on the centerstand until I've broken the filter free. That might not be the easiest means of access to the filter, but the access is horribly anyway.