Thanks Turbo City Tom

[805gregg]

I finally got my new fuel pressure regulator, thanks Tom, I think ,I got it done no problemo, good instructions and good tips from posters, thanks I ordererd K&N airfilter & 2-brothers exhaust model , for sure use impact driver, no big deal, started after install let it warm up, sounds smoother and responds to throttle better, I'll let you know. Also picked up LBL peg lowers for pillon for my wife, I'll install and ride this weekend and advise.We'go to Santa Barbara for fiesta ya gotta love Southern Cal for the happinings. Later. I took the bike up to fiesta for lunch today (thur), the throttle response was much smoother but it seams to be idleing too fast, about 1400 rpm all in all a great add on.

[beatlejuice]

fiesta? i know of no stinkin fiesta! poast details please. maybe i come to this fiesta? i read nothing about fiesta in locals paper :D

[turbocity tom]

We have about 30 regulators in stock, if there is enough interest we could open another group buy.

Thanks Tom

[curmudgeon]

I guess I should get in on a group buy this time so count me in

Phil

[stg1]

Me too. :biker: :bow1:

[HRCRob]

Tom, I've got one that I've not installed yet. Is there another mod (more psi) for K&N and Staintunes?
Tom does tune them differently for induction and exhaust mods. He etches onto your modded regulator the new psi rating. I specified to Tom that I am running a K&N and StainTunes and he adjusted mine accordingly. It is marked 61 which is 1 or 2 lbs over his stock bike mod.

I recieved mine last week and popped it in the next day. The install was cake with no screw stripping issues. Bike works great now. Can't wait until my next tour on her. Tom's The MAN :bow1:

[turbocity tom]

The regulator is tuned differently for the filter and exhaust. There is a number scribed on the cap of the regulator.
58= stock ST
59= K&N filter
60= exhaust
61= K&N and exhaust

The regulator can be retuned if require by returning it to us with info on your mods.

The 58# regulator CAN be used in ALL applications.
Anyone that has made changes since the time of ordering should install the regulator and give it a try. I think you'll be suprised how smooth it can be. If after you have tried it,if there is still any drivablity issues, then send it back for recalibration.

Thanks Tom

My web server is down right now, so it's difficult to place orders. Will let you all know when an other group by is open.

Thanks

[joema]

I installed my new regulator today. It took me about 5 hr, probably the slowest install on record. No real problems, except I couldn't get the fuel return line hose clamp on (pinch type), so had to get a screw-type hose clamp. It was also 90F, so I took several rest breaks.

The instructions were good and I didn't need an impact driver -- just used a new Husky Pro Phillips with a grit-blasted tip, and plenty of downward pressure.

I rode 6 hr yesterday before the install and 2 hr today after the install.

It's definitely better -- the harsh, jolting throttle snatch during on/off/on throttle operations is mostly gone. No obvious adverse affects. Performance feels the same or better. Gas mileage (by actual measurement) was 43 mpg before the change, and 45 mpg afterward.

Engine and off idle throttle seems softer, smoother and more predictable, yet without any power loss.

Too bad Honda didn't make it this way originally. I can't believe mfgs ship bikes with severe throttle snatch. If nothing else you'd think the liability exposure would preclude that. Talk about "unintended acceleration"!!

[sttourer]

I installed my new regulator today. It took me about 5 hr, probably the slowest install on record. No real problems, except I couldn't get the fuel return line hose clamp on (pinch type), so had to get a screw-type hose clamp. It was also 90F, so I took several rest breaks.


A couple of those clamps caused me some frustration too. Time spent could have been about 40% shorter had they cooperated with me. Guess my hands are too big for that kind of work.

One thing that helped me was printing the instructions in color. I was happy Tom has them posted on his site. For me a picture is worth a thousand words.




:biker:

[Carl_T]

Finally got to install mine last night. I also got the throttle body sync dead on while I was in there. It was off. As others have mentioned the adjustment does not seem to affect much more than idle and off closed throttle.

I took it for a 2 hour ride this morning. WOW TOM! This does put the bike where it should have been in the first place. major kudos to you for coming up with this regulator change. To me I’d probably give up my Sargent seat before I gave up the change this adds to the bike at lower RPM ranges.

My ride included longish sections of twisties, and some straighter back roads behind little old gray haired ladies. Gas mileage was reported about 1.5 mpg down during the higher RPM early twisty riding (but my computer always starts out a bit low regardless). The ride behind the little old lady allowed me to take advantage of the low RPM drivability and the gas mileage climbed towards what I was getting before. The last part home was normal riding with a short burst of more spirited riding towards the end. Before the last sprited part I’d caught up to my old mileage and ended the ride in the minus .2 tenths range for MPG. This is an non-measurable difference as rides vary a good deal in engine demand.

I am hugely impressed with the low RPM manners this adds to the bike. Before I would not drive it below 3000RPM unless I was coasting, as the engine just couldn’t deal with it and strained. Now you can putt along below 3000 behind traffic and so long as you don’t require a big strong pull the engine is very happy. This drivable range below 3000 cruising in slow traffic should add to the gas mileage and help make up for any lesser gas mileage that may be experienced at more aggressive riding speeds.

The throttle take up between 3000rpm and 4000rpm in turns went from my being able to nail them smoothly 85% to 90% of the time to nailing 100% of them on the ride today.

The throttle take up between 2000rpm and 3000rpm had me nailing all of them today (I added lots of extra to test it out) that is very useful like in slow nearly stopped intersections and parking lots etc. This range went from worse than abysmal to smooth 100% of the time. This rpm range improvement is incredible. 2d gear low rpm Intersections and slow stuff is “butter” now.

I would say the bike is now so smooth starting off from a stop that the clutch will wear far less quickly and the extra clutch miles will pay for the farkle with ease. I can start off on a level with very low rpms now and the clutch is in the friction zone about 65% the amount of time from before, if I make conscious use of the low rpm drivability. Again it is like “buttah”

To summarize between 2000 and 3000rpm the difference in my bike is literally amazing as to the difference. This gets less and less different as you go through the rpms between 3000 and 4000rpms. Still the improvement around 3300 to 3500 is still good and makes for smooth throttle take up in turns if you pay attention. 4000 up may be better but is harder to notice if yes or no.

This new RPM range below 3000 is useful in towns and populated areas where more quiet engine noise adds to the “bikes are OK” image with the lawn mowing public (for those of us not particularly into extra noise in heavily populated areas).

I can see the new low rpm range can be used in rural traffic to up the gas mileage a bit. I was able to utilize the range without lugging the engine.

I really can’t tell that there is any power increase in the upper rpms but I didn’t have surge problems between 3000 and 4000 on the 2005 bike before the install.

I didn’t need the impact driver, just a good screwdriver.

I wish I knew that the two little bolts that hold the gas tank down contained metal bushings and that one could fall out into the nether regions of the engine when the tank was lifted. A light and magnet finally retrieved that.

The install went smoothly due to the great and clear instructions. Man those hose clamps sucked. And so did the hoses on the heads. Still wasn’t hard and great benefits. I think I will be very happy still, many miles down the road.

On a side note, blind turns in my area are numerous and tough sometimes. I came around one and a very large buzzard flew up. I was able to slow and duck flat to the tank. My head missed him by 6 inches to a foot. WAY to close for me. 2 turns later a truck came around a blind turn using 3/4 of the road width in MY lane. I was sure wondering why the fates were messing with me, but the rest of the ride was OK.

Be alert out there Lerts have more fun.

[Mark]

We have about 30 regulators in stock, if there is enough interest we could open another group buy.

Thanks Tom

I'd like in on this one (well Chris would anyway), how will we place the order?

Mark

[turbocity tom]

Everyone, Thanks for all the good words on the product.

My website is still down and will be for a couple more days( webhost left town rapidly , not a nice guy)

I will let everyone know when it is back up and then we can take orders.

Thanks again, this and the MSN group have really made this a great product.


Thanks Tom

[Mark]

Thanks for the update Tom.

Mark

[danyn_canyon]

Count me in this time around. :rolleyes:

[RxCritical]

I think I will be in on this one also!

[CrashTestDanny]

Everyone, Thanks for all the good words on the product.

My website is still down and will be for a couple more days( webhost left town rapidly , not a nice guy)

I will let everyone know when it is back up and then we can take orders.

Thanks again, this and the MSN group have really made this a great product.


Thanks Tom

I'll take one too, Tom.

[jnsgardner]

You guys beat me to it. I put in Tom's FPR etched at 60 due to Staintunes this weekend and had all these observations and hints, and each of you, especially Carl, covered every one.
Yes, those little spacer bushings can and do fall out of the tank hold down rubber pads into the nether regions, and, yes, a magnetic stick is the best tool to get them out.
An impact screwdriver wasn't needed probably due to the fact that the dealer serviceman had been in there to sync the EFI.
The right rear rubber air horn had two possible positions. I didn't notice where it had been when I took it out, but I put it back so that it touched the left rear horn rather than have it angled further back.
I took the two screws out of the air temp sensor and plugged it into the jack before I fired the STeed up to test for leaks. It wasn't clear, but I believe this prevented some malfunction codes from registering.
A blunt nose wire cutter pliers helped with the fuel return hose clamp as the nose was wide enough to capture both the single and double ears of the clamp. Also, putting both hoses on before you screw the regulator onto the tube manifold helped a little.
Lastly, a 15/16 wrench is a perfect non-metric size to tighten the nut....as long as you use caution not to over torque the fitting due to the leverage of an almost foot long wrench.
I'm going to send back the stock FPR to Tom. It's only four months old and I can't use it. If he can't use it, he can throw it away. If he can, well, just think of it as a Thank You from a very satisfied customer.

John

[AgSTreak]

I'm sold!!

[Carl_T]

You will like it John.

As an update after more riding. As I stated my computer often shows avg. mileage a bit low at first.

After more riding I seem to be getting avg. fuel consumption which is .5 to .9 miles per gallon better than before (as stated by the bike computer not a calculation). I believe I read some others who reported increases. I ended up having to turn up my idle by a hundred rpm or so after the install.

I continue to be extremely pleased with the results 100%. I also believe it worth mentioning that I did both the regulator swap and a sync at the same time.

[ST13-JHW]

Add me to the liST, too.

Thanks,
Jim :03biker:
ST13-JHW
STOC 4358
AMA 611288

[clacot]

Hi everyone

First i want to apologize for my poor english i will do my best. Last summer i did install the(FPR) fuel regulator on my new honda st 2005 . bought it from Turbo city. I am 75% satisfy with the result but still got that quick response between 3000 rpm and 4000 rpm.. so here my question? what would be the right pressure for my bike... i haven't made nothing new on my bike such as changing or modifying the exhaust pipe or what ever... my bike is totally stock from the Honda compagny..The problem is i didn't check the pressure on the top of the FPR.. is it 57 psi or 58 psi or 59... but from your experience do you think i should increase the pressure or decrease..

thank you

Clacot

[turbocity tom]

Hi everyone

First i want to apologize for my poor english i will do my best. Last summer i did install the(FPR) fuel regulator on my new honda st 2005 . bought it from Turbo city. I am 75% satisfy with the result but still got that quick response between 3000 rpm and 4000 rpm.. so here my question? what would be the right pressure for my bike... i haven't made nothing new on my bike such as changing or modifying the exhaust pipe or what ever... my bike is totally stock from the Honda compagny..The problem is i didn't check the pressure on the top of the FPR.. is it 57 psi or 58 psi or 59... but from your experience do you think i should increase the pressure or decrease..

thank you

Clacot

You may need to send the regulator back for a slight pressure increase. If your ST is stock, you should have a 58 psi regulator. We have found that some do require just a little more pressure to be completely smooth. Return it for the update at no charge.

Thanks tom

[clacot]

Thank you Tom

Right now my bike is on storage for winter , as soon as i can send it back ( at springtime ) i will do that..

thanks again

clacot

[ajaugust]

I did mine ("his") and am totally please with the results. Now I need another one (so I can do "hers"). So put me down for one.
Thank you...

[curmudgeon]

Just installed mine yesterday. The installation was very easy and the screws came out without using an impact wrench. Only had time for a short ride before the rains started again, but there did seem to be an improvement. I'll hold judgement until I can get some more riding time in. I also dropped the idle down from 1200 to around 900, but only after the ride. So I'll have to see how that affects operation.

Phil

[nurseBob]

I finally installed mine over the weekend. Surprisingly, the job only took about an hour. I have to agree, the engine is much smoother in the "around town" driving. No discernable difference on the hiway, but I'm very pleased. Also, either a slight improvement in fuel economy, or a push, but no drop-off.

Tom, thanks for such a good product!

Bob