Heated grips on a 95 ST1100

Joined
Mar 15, 2008
Messages
56
Location
Seattle WA
Bike
95 red ST
STOC #
6386
I have the symtec grip heaters.
Anyone who installed them have any do's or don'ts?
Do I need a relay?
A better or worse kind of glue?
I want to put a dial type controller in place of the on off sw. Any thoughts on this approach?
Thanks
Vinnie
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,538
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
Vininie, get the HeaTroller from Warm And Safe and install in place of the on-off switch.

the symtec grips work fine, I've had'em on STick for many years. No additional glue needed.

All my aux. gear is powered thru a relay. Just a good idea instead of adding more current thru the ignition switch. Get a 30 or 40 amp relay at your local auto parts store, use heavy gauge wire from the battery, thru the relay, to an aux fuse block.
 
OP
OP
vink
Joined
Mar 15, 2008
Messages
56
Location
Seattle WA
Bike
95 red ST
STOC #
6386
Thanks for the reply and the link. I like the ability to dial in just enough heat, BTW nice video clip and how do I download a pic under my name.
Vinnie
 
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
4,218
Age
49
Location
Grant, MN (aka Stillwater)
Bike
ST1100 & ST1300
STOC #
6145
I am going to be installing a set shortly as well. From what I have read here is another tip that George didn't mention. If installed the normally you will notice that the right grip will be warmer than the left. This is because the right heater is installed to the plastic throttle tube. The left side is stuck to the metal bars. Since the metal bars take more to heat it won't be as warm. Some people deal with it, others install a resistor on the left heater to get closer heat levels or do something to insulate the metal bar a little before attaching the heater. Some have used heatshrink for instance. I would assume even a layer of electrical tape would be better than nothing. I plan on going the heat shrink route.

Other than that do what George said. Relay, yes; heavy gauge wire, yes.
 
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
4,218
Age
49
Location
Grant, MN (aka Stillwater)
Bike
ST1100 & ST1300
STOC #
6145
Actually another reason you want to use the Heatroller that George mentioned is that you likely are still running the 28 amp alternator. This alternator is underpowered. The benefit of the heatroller is that it power cycles the heated grips on and off. So they draw less power. The other way of controlling heat is with a variable resistor. A resistor doesn't help much in the power conservation side of things as they would draw the same power if on high as it will on low. The resistor gets hot and disipates the power that way.
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,538
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
I am going to be installing a set shortly as well. From what I have read here is another tip that George didn't mention. If installed the normally you will notice that the right grip will be warmer than the left. This is because the right heater is installed to the plastic throttle tube. The left side is stuck to the metal bars. Since the metal bars take more to heat it won't be as warm. Some people deal with it, others install a resistor on the left heater to get closer heat levels or do something to insulate the metal bar a little before attaching the heater. Some have used heatshrink for instance. I would assume even a layer of electrical tape would be better than nothing. I plan on going the heat shrink route.

Other than that do what George said. Relay, yes; heavy gauge wire, yes.
Get the Symtech set for motorcycles instead of snowmobiles. The left side uses a little more "juice" to make up the diff.

Or do as I did and add a plastic sleeve on the left and use _2_ throttle side grips.
 
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