Electrical Connection Driving Lights

[Bones]

I took advantage of Honda DirectLine's 10% off and ordered the Electrical Connection Driving Light kit. One buddy Jon (Connie) provided electrical-savvy assistance, and another buddy John (K-GT and a gorgeous 1980 CB750 Custom he's had since new) provided comic relief while eating all my potato chips.

Some ideas and observations:

Take off the left side Tupperware...the directions don't suggest this but it makes the wiring much easier.

I mounted the relay using the bolt that holds one of the mirror pop-off points inboard of the left mirror. There is lots of empty real estate in there, both for the relay and to organize all the wires when you're done.

I fired the relay by tapping the switched line from the Honda Quartet Harness before the fuse that feeds the heated grip controller. Some guys say they like the lights to go on with either the low beams or high beams, but I wanted to control the lights independently with a switch. They shut off automatically when the ignition goes off, and when the ignition goes back on they recall the last setting (come back on if they were left on, stay off if left off). Probably better for the battery to leave them off when starting the bike.

The ground went between the main frame and the collar that extends from the frame where the fairing support member bolts in place. Easy access and solid metal to metal contact.

Route the leads from the lights along the brake lines, secure snugly with zip ties and you retain full range of motion with the bars without tugging on the leads. I wish the nylon covered wires going into the lights were gray or black instead of white...probably should have spray painted those first.

The very nice supplied switch went beautifully on the underside lip of the dash, left side, in that little recess just down from the top. From this location the on/off LEDs show well, it's an easy reach, and it's out of the weather. Feed the wire down through that open slot to the switch connector in the harness.

I fed the hot lead direct to the battery. The supplied harness was short a few feet...Jon had extra wire plus some connectors.

Aiming the lights looks like trial and error. I started by aiming them just down of the low beams as they shine on my garage from 25 feet away. We'll see how that works tomorrow night.

Overall the kit is well thought out. The mounting method is simple and effective and looks good on the bike. You could get similar light output from a Walmart kit for le$$, but you'd need to figure out a mounting scheme (hard to imagine a better one than EC has) and you'd still need a good weatherproof switch.

[STeve1300]

What, no pictures?

[Bones]

What, no pictures?
Oops... :o: I thought about that while I was replacing the Tupperware...hence the detailed written descriptions. Next time the plastic is off I'll snap some.

[sherob]

Bright little things aren't they :D

[Kempo-STer]

Oops... :o: I thought about that while I was replacing the Tupperware...hence the detailed written descriptions. Next time the plastic is off I'll snap some.


BONES???***??

I ordered mine 5 weeks ago directly from EC and they told me they backordered..
Now you get your and put them on before I even get my order!!GRRR :(

Yes I am jealous! :)

[sherob]

Why don't you go and complain on the Disappointed at Honda thread... LOL!!!! ;)

[Kempo-STer]

Why don't you go and complain on the Disappointed at Honda thread... LOL!!!! ;)

Rob,

That was low...and FUNNY!! :crackup

[Bones]

Bright little things aren't they :D
I expect to find out tonight. They certainly are bright in daylight...I aimed them down after I saw how bright they were as I was standing at the end of my driveway. I'll keep the phillips handy for micro adjustment tonight.

I've got a thing for good switch gear (probably from driving Hondas and Toyotas for 25 years). The switch that came with these lights is great. Nice "snick" on and off, LEDs for on (red) and off (green), good size and shape.

[sherob]

They don't put off alot of driving light... but people will see you! ;) :bow1:

[GRN]

my hardware is holding up great, bulbs went around 6000 miles, and are a little work to replace, replacements require a coupler or a wire to wire solder. I'm still very happy with them and have been contiuosly remarked to about their exc. viz.

[sttourer]

I'll chime in here too. My E/C lights have close to 10,000 miles on them. I'm happy to report no issues at all. Lenses are still in perfect shape and the original bulbs are still burning bright.

Of course I don't do the wheelies that GRN does, so that may account for my bulb life.....;)

Pat

[sherob]

My lenses are cracked... RC saw them, if he remembers :rolleyes: They have about 6500 miles on them. But Houston is known for non stop road construction... plus I have a cement plant on the street that feeds to the slab I use everyday. ;)

[Bones]

Mine are holding up fine, no problems. A good product for the price. If I had extra piles of cash laying around I probably would have gone for the Motolights, but they don't seem worth 4 times as much as the EC lights, especially since they both use H3's.

The fill in the road nicely at night and my riding buddies tell me I'm far more visible with them burning.

[Kempo-STer]

Still Don't have mine on:( ..I guess it will be an excuse to get some of my ST buddies over for a couple beers and hot tub this winter...

Just getting back my bike and 2 F..in WEEKS for freaking tires and brakes..You believe that?!..

Hopefully sneak out on a few more rides..Sunday morning anyone?? GONNA BE A COLD ONE.

[GRN]

Everything AOK xcept the bulbs... pretty rough roads round here on average, I might tend to not adjust for that as much as some... :o: , the plastic lenses have been fine which may be due to the lack of other traffic where I ride. What little I do encounter ain't in front of me for long :D I have no regrets w/ this product to date... and same as Bones, folks I ride with always mention the significant difference/improvement in my viz sig.

[GRN]

I'll chime in here too. My E/C lights have close to 10,000 miles on them. I'm happy to report no issues at all. Lenses are still in perfect shape and the original bulbs are still burning bright.

Of course I don't do the wheelies that GRN does, so that may account for my bulb life.....;)

Pat

Hey now... those were... well, unintentional, and only twice!


:p:

[tdeboeser]

GRN, you have Piaa's and EC's. Do the EC's really help? And are they bouncy being down on the forks? Seem like a good price for all the good talk here...


Thanks,

Tom

[GRN]

GRN, you have Piaa's and EC's. Do the EC's really help? And are they bouncy being down on the forks? Seem like a good price for all the good talk here...


Thanks,

Tom

Hey Tom,

the EC's are more of a "be seen" than a "see" light. 910's are all about "see"!

In my experience, they are actually not of benefit in fog/mist... to the contrary, they are slightly blue in color temp. and reflect significantly with adverse effects on visability. I usually switch to the 910's wich are yellower and penatrate moisture better when I have no oncoming traffic.

[sherob]

Yep... they still work... the lenses are cracked, but I don't think they are all the way thru :rolleyes:

[sherob]

Was looking at switches RC has... came across this under their warranty page: "Driving light lens glass is not covered under warranty from debris damage." :(

[Bones]

replacements require a coupler or a wire to wire solder.

Not if you order the right ones. Replacements bulbs for EC's ST1300 kit are direct plug and play. Generic H3's are not (different connectors). The generic ones are listed on the EC website but the ST1300 replacements are not for some reason. Better to call EC on the phone to ensure you get the ST1300-specific bulbs.

[NCrider]

I have the ST version on my VFR, love them!

They make you get seen, just ask the guys I ride with.

[ShinySideUpAZ]

A little info, the EC lights are made from Pilot Automotive. They are the NV-512W driving lights. I bought mine at Pep Boys for $22. The relay, MicroBug Switch, and wiring harness, also pilot automotive, can be bought at Pep Boys for $19.95, but all you really need is the relay. You can buy this at Pep Boys for $4.95.

I manufactured a bracket in my shop. Basically a piece of 1/2" wide brass stock that is 1/8 inch thick. I used my punch press to create my brackets, but you can make yours with basic hand tools.

When I get the chance I will post some picks. I spent $58 and about 12 hours of work. That includes the installation. I bought the Pilot lights, relay, I bought some wire, some heat shrink, I bought a led button because I didn't like what Pilot had, some hitachi connectors, Some bolts, two threaded spacers (used to re-enforce the inside of the light, I don't know if EC does do this), a piece of 1/2 wide brass, and some epoxy paint. I used the Pilot relay and connectors that came with the wiring harness in the light box. I didn't buy a waterproof button because I mounted my button in the right pocket and tied it into the wiring harness with hitachi connectors. The on signal to the relay was pulled off the ignition switch. This makes the lights shut off during engine start, this is the same trigger signal the bike used for the low and high beam enable. For those interested it is the blue wire with the white stripe.

The button is in the right glove box because I didn't forsee the need for quick access, and rarely turn them off.

I painted the lights and the brackets black to blend them into the bike styling.

As for the lights they are good for the price I paid.:crackup

Sorry, just couldn't resist. :-D

BTW: You can get the replacement bulbs from them also, and they come with the connectors.

[ShinySideUpAZ]

Here are pics of my setup I described in my previous post. Total system cost $58 and 12 hours total labor, this includes procurement, fabrication, and installation.

[STreaker]

My last driving lites upgrage--Beloved Bandit 1200, sob, sob,--was wired to the high beam wire. Total cost was $8 for a 50 amp solenoid relay plus $30 for H3 off roads. I'd like to do on my ST if the headlite upgrade isn't enough extra lite.