Driving Lights

[Redeye]

Just completed fitting a set of driving lights. Impressed with the additional visibility they give.

[The Highwayman]

Driving lights look great!

But I'm very interested in your windscreen, I assume it is aftermarket, who is the manufacturer? It looks great!!

Thanks.

[Burger]

Just completed fitting a set of driving lights. Impressed with the additional visibility they give.

Details... where's the details? :)

Like make and where you got them from and how they're wired??? Seperate switch, always on with high beam? Spill the beans please :D

Thanks,

[Redeye]

The screen is a 1" taller tinted flip-top from Bike-Quip in the UK.

http://www.st1300-accessories.co.uk/index.html

[Redeye]

Details... where's the details? :)

Like make and where you got them from and how they're wired??? Seperate switch, always on with high beam? Spill the beans please :D

Thanks,

Ok Dave, just calm down. :rolleyes:

Just a cheap pair of Ring lights from Halfords.
55w Halogens, they're for visibility, not for lighting up the road.
Mounted direct to the front mudguard (fender) bolts (also used as ground) and wired into the rear service check connector, to the live with ignition on wire, via a relay.

[acebradley]

Man, the price of the screen is not that bad (69 BPS = $120), but they do gig ya with the shipping (35 BPS = about $60). Showing $182 total or 153 Euros.

But, do you know how it compares to some of the other screens here? Does the "flip" do much for noise or helmet buffeting? What about back pressure when up all the way? Really do like the look and the tint.

[Blackdog]

Nice work RedEye!

[BeBeep]

RedEye: Nice job, can you post a few more pics of how they are attached to the fender etc?

Thanks,
Bob

[Redeye]

RedEye: Nice job, can you post a few more pics of how they are attached to the fender etc?

Thanks,
Bob
Bob, they are designed for fitting under the bumper (fender) of cars and have a simple hinged bracked attached.
All I did was take out the bolt on the front fender and bolt the light straight on.
I'll take a couple of shots, but it was really simple.

[Redeye]

Man, the price of the screen is not that bad (69 BPS = $120), but they do gig ya with the shipping (35 BPS = about $60). Showing $182 total or 153 Euros.

But, do you know how it compares to some of the other screens here? Does the "flip" do much for noise or helmet buffeting? What about back pressure when up all the way? Really do like the look and the tint.
I can only compare the screen with the standard fitment.
1. It really is good at keeping insects off the visor. I ride with it down for most of the time.
2. It does "flip" the turbulence up and over the rider ( 5'10" - 30" inseam).
3. Fully extended it still creates some back-pressure but not to the extent of the original.
4. It's 2" wider and 1" higher (there are other choices).
5. It looks cool with the tint :D

[Burger]

Ok Dave, just calm down. :rolleyes:

Just a cheap pair of Ring lights from Halfords.
55w Halogens, they're for visibility, not for lighting up the road.
Mounted direct to the front mudguard (fender) bolts (also used as ground) and wired into the rear service check connector, to the live with ignition on wire, via a relay.

Oh man, are they as big as they look in the pic? 5 inch or something :) Have you calculated the increased fuel consumption due to the increased drag and what about the additional weight after they've caught a few bugs? :D

Just teasing, I'm sure you'll be seen a mile off :)

Regards,

[Redeye]

Oh man, are they as big as they look in the pic? 5 inch or something :) Have you calculated the increased fuel consumption due to the increased drag and what about the additional weight after they've caught a few bugs? :D

Just teasing, I'm sure you'll be seen a mile off :)

Regards,

I did consider some Cibie Super Oscars, which I remembered from the 80's rallying scene. About 9" and weighed 2 kilos each, but decided against just in case they affected the handling a tad :rolleyes:
These are oval, plactic bodied, about 3.5" by 2.5" and weigh a few ounces each.
But they are bright, aren't they :D

[Big Al]

Man, the price of the screen is not that bad (69 BPS = $120), but they do gig ya with the shipping (35 BPS = about $60). Showing $182 total or 153 Euros.

But, do you know how it compares to some of the other screens here? Does the "flip" do much for noise or helmet buffeting? What about back pressure when up all the way? Really do like the look and the tint.acebradley,
You might want to try this place for a good aftermarket windscreen
http://www.ceebaileys.com/honda/st1300ws.html

[Tor]

Details... where's the details? :)

Like make and where you got them from and how they're wired??? Seperate switch, always on with high beam? Spill the beans please :D

Thanks,

Yeah,, pictures, switch location, wiresizes, bulbs used, you know.........that way we can figure out if you wired them up right or not, you know.........c'mon

[bcst1300]

I used Kuriakin aux light with MR-11 bulbs in the same location for the same reason. Can I suggest you add a ground that goes back to the ground block or the battery. You are asking for trouble by running electricity through the frame. You might get electrolosis in a part that is important and find the metal has migrated or a bolt has siezed.

Lots of vehicles use the frame as a ground return but the concequences in an Aluminum frame can be worse and happen sooner.

[stuey]

I used Kuriakin aux light with MR-11 bulbs in the same location for the same reason. Can I suggest you add a ground that goes back to the ground block or the battery. You are asking for trouble by running electricity through the frame. You might get electrolosis in a part that is important and find the metal has migrated or a bolt has siezed.

Lots of vehicles use the frame as a ground return but the concequences in an Aluminum frame can be worse and happen sooner.

Don't Honda already use the frame as an earth? they certainley do on the Blackbird CBR1100XX.

stu

[dond]

The frame makes fine ground and Mama Honda uses it for that. The problem (there's always at leaST one) is grounding the lights at the sliders is asking the fork bearings to be a path and that is not good unless you've got the forks bonded to the frame. Long ago I put a wire between the upper tree and the frame. I do it on all bikes as precaution. It saves STeering head bearings :-)

Your
Electron
Flow
May
Vary

[ligito]

Caution says not to use the rear service check connector for anything other than service checks.

Use a more suitable source, so you don't create any problems.

[bcst1300]

Don't Honda already use the frame as an earth? they certainley do on the Blackbird CBR1100XX.

stu
Well yes Honda does use the FRAME for a ground return for sensors in the engine and the starter . But, only the frame (including the engine) Most devices use a ground return wire. For example the horn is mounted to the frame via a bracket but has a ground return wire. Also as has been pointed out that the forks are not part of the frame and any electrical path back to the battery will have to traverse bearings as well. It is still a better practice to install a ground return wire.

Aluminum Oxidizes immediately and aluminum oxide has a higher resistance to electricity than does the metal under it. I have been an electrician for 28 years and I can say with athority that aluminum is a good electrical conductor but needs some very exact terminations to provide a reliable, long lasting connection. From experience Joe average is not that good at terminating copper wires and frankly it is just good practice to return all your accessories to the source (battery). If you are using an anti oxidizing compound and break the aluminum oxide at every terminal. If you use fine stranded wire and connectors correctly sized to the terminals and crimp them with the correct tool you may just be fine connecting your grounds to the frame but you are still going to gain reliability by running the ground back to a ground block connected to the battery. Most electrical troubles on a motorcycle, boat, or car can be traced to a failed connection. Your bike was originaly wired by an assembly worker, not a skilled technician. Take my advice or just do it the way the factory does it. You could get trouble free service from both but I fix a lot of things that are wired in a factory.