FYI, E52 Givi Parts, Keys and Brake Light Contacts

[crazykz]

In case anyone needs Givi Parts their contact info is:
# Givi USA, Inc. 1-877-679-4484
# 9309 Forsyth Park Drive
# Charlotte, NC 28273
# info@giviusa.com

Here's info on the key blanks for the E52
E52 Blank: Z661G (E52 locks vary, so call first)
Cost: $5.00/each

If you need to replace the brake light contacts:
Trunk Contacts Replacement: $13
Plate Contacts Replacement: $10

They will replace them under warrenty if you send in your old ones. I didn't want to do that so I ordered new ones and I'll send in the old one when the new ones fail after a while.

Curt

[Clair]

Hey, I just bought the E52 for my '01 ST1100 along with the brake light kit. Installing the rear rack was easy enough and the top case fits great. But I haven't done the brake light yet. How did that go for you? Looks somewhat confusing to me.

TIA

[SteveST1300]

The instructions are to say the least terrible. but the install itself is not that bad. I had a hck of a time with the connectors for the lights I eventually soldered them on. But once in they work well. :03biker:

[crazykz]

Hey, I just bought the E52 for my '01 ST1100 along with the brake light kit. Installing the rear rack was easy enough and the top case fits great. But I haven't done the brake light yet. How did that go for you? Looks somewhat confusing to me.

TIA

It was a PITA and getting the hole out of the base plate was a ***** too. The LED's are not the best but I've seen a tutorial that shows you how to get better ones that are a drop in replacement. Take your time because it takes a while to get them in there and you have to be good with a utility knife. Knowing what I know now I should have just invested my money in some hyperlites.

If you have questions just PM me. I'm not painting a pretty picture so you get the idea. If you get stuck just let me know.

Curt

[Blue STreak]

It was a PITA and getting the hole out of the base plate was a ***** too. The LED's are not the best but I've seen a tutorial that shows you how to get better ones that are a drop in replacement. Take your time because it takes a while to get them in there and you have to be good with a utility knife. Knowing what I know now I should have just invested my money in some hyperlites.

If you have questions just PM me. I'm not painting a pretty picture so you get the idea. If you get stuck just let me know.

Curt

Any idea where that tutorial is? I'd be interested in better lights that really fit.

Oh, and Arizona Motorsports has Givi spare parts. IIRC, the wire harnesses for the E-52 are cheaper than the Givi direct prices quoted above.

Thanks,

[crazykz]

It was posted in the other thread I had on Givi parts. I'll attach it here also.

Curt

[Ken]

Since Givi also makes the Honda top box, does anyone if the key blank code (above) will also work on the Honda box?

[crazykz]

Since Givi also makes the Honda top box, does anyone if the key blank code (above) will also work on the Honda box?

No it will not. But this one will although I was told this and have not verified it. Hillman keys are sold at big hardware stores but this key might be hard to find so try a locksmith.

Honda Top Box, Hillman (ILCO) Info: X132 (X132 is a Volkswagon Key)

I did this research when I did my key knobs:
http://www.hard-core-ware.com/howtos/index.php?page=keys

Curt

[Blue STreak]

It was posted in the other thread I had on Givi parts. I'll attach it here also.

Curt

Thanks!

word word word word

[crazykz]

Ok, I received my parts for the E52 from Givi very fast and they did not charge extra for shipping so it was $13 for the box bottom shell connector (Part# Z995M), and $10 for the base plate connector (Part# Z880), total $23 shipped.

I noticed when I removed the bottom shell contact cover on the inside of the case that one of the wires was almost snapped so even if the springs in the contact had not given way I would have needed to repair the wire soon but there's so little slack it would have been a pain to get anymore out of the wire. Lucky for me the wire comes with the new contact. The wires are put into the contact with set screws so you can remove them if you want to. They have been soldered on the ends to give them more strength.

One thing that I noticed with the new contacts is that they did the wires different where they are pinched by the set screws. They folded the exposed and soldered ends over back onto the insulation. They they fed that into the set screw hole and screw in the set screw. It seems like a good move as that will give the end more strength and will be less likely to snap off in the future. BTW, if you want to get the cover off of the connector it is a PITA. You'll need 2 small flat tip screwdrivers. Good luck with that.

Anyway I'll include some pics I took while replacing mine just as reference for anyone that my want to see this in the future.

Curt