Battery Harness - Gerbing (15 A fuse) vs Battery Tender (7.5 A fuse)

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Its getting cold and I want to hook up my heated clothing this weekend. I currently have a battery harness for my battery tender installed (it has a 7.5 Amp fuse). In the past I connected a second battery harness for my Gerbing heated clothing (it has a 15 Amp fuse). Would there be any harm in using battery harness with the 7.5 amp fuse for the heated clothing?
 
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The Gerbing jacket liner draws 6.4 amps, the pant liner draws 3.6, gloves draw 2.2, and insoles draw 1.2. Anything more than the jacket liner will blow your 7.5 amp fuse. Fifteen amps will handle everything.
 
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Thanks for your response. Since I run the jacket liner and gloves it looks like I need to use the harness with the 15 amp fuse.

Could I also use the harness with the 15 amp fuse for the battery tender?
 
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Or, if your gonna run a lot of heated gear, more than the 7.5 amp fuse for the charger, you could put in the 15 amp fuse, then make up a plug for the charger to go into the plug for the heated clothes harness, with an extra fuse (7.5 amps)...and leave the charger harness on the charger and plug it into the heated clothes harness.
 
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I have the rear-mounted (by the shock preload adjuster) powerlet outlets; I normally hook the Battery Tender to one of these. I installed another powerlet, on a separate circuit, on the left side of the fairing, next to the fairing pocket cover. I plug the heated gear into it. If I somehow blow the fuse, I still have another receptacle to use. It hasn't happened, but a little redundancy is always a good idea, especially when it means not freezing your butt off...
 
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Or, if your gonna run a lot of heated gear, more than the 7.5 amp fuse for the charger, you could put in the 15 amp fuse, then make up a plug for the charger to go into the plug for the heated clothes harness, with an extra fuse (7.5 amps)...and leave the charger harness on the charger and plug it into the heated clothes harness.
Do you have a source for "a plug for the charger to go into the plug for the heated clothes harness"?
 
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Do you have a source for "a plug for the charger to go into the plug for the heated clothes harness"?
What type of plug is your heated clothes; SAE style (which is flat type plug), or a round type plug (Gerbing uses the round type plugs).

You can make it yourself by getting the proper cord and adding a fuse in the middle. If you do not feel comfortable doing so, I would HIGHLY recommend Jim Davis with Eastern Beaver, look at this Powerlet SAE to Coax Female 6" (15 cm), which is almost all the way down to the bottom of the page, almost the last product (there is no fuse in between).

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Powerlet/Heated_Clothing/heated_clothing.html

I'm sure Jim would be happy to add a fuse in this product for you. He can be reached at jim@easternbeaver.com
 

st11ray

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Wouldn't his battery tender harness that he is plugging it into already have a fuse in it?
 
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Wouldn't his battery tender harness that he is plugging it into already have a fuse in it?
YES. Here is the deal, and after I put up my last post I went to bed and realized I need to make sure that he understands in which order the connections need to be made;

This is how you would have the heated jacket alone:

Battery---Heated Jacket Harness with fuse inline already (15 amps I think)---Heated Jacket

This is how you would have the Battery Tender :

Battery---Battery Tender Harness with fuse inline already (7 amps I think, does anyone remember)---Battery Tender

Now if you want to make ONLY one connection at the battery and use both the Heated Jacket and a Battery Tender:

Battery---Heated Jacket Harness with inline fuse---Battery Tender Harness with fuse INLINE (7 amps I think)---Battery Tender

The point is, I'm pretty sure the Battery Tender will use a smaller fuse than the heated jacket, so the Battery Tender harness needs to be the one that can be removed easily, otherwise the fuse will be seen/used, while the Heated Jacket is on and if using more than the just the jacket, the fuse will blow.

And ST11ray, the cord you showed is another good source, however, it still needs a fuse inline and I doubt that store will add one.
 

st11ray

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YES. Here is the deal, and after I put up my last post I went to bed and realized I need to make sure that he understands in which order the connections need to be made;

This is how you would have the heated jacket alone:

Battery---Heated Jacket Harness with fuse inline already (15 amps I think)---Heated Jacket

This is how you would have the Battery Tender :

Battery---Battery Tender Harness with fuse inline already (7 amps I think, does anyone remember)---Battery Tender

Now if you want to make ONLY one connection at the battery and use both the Heated Jacket and a Battery Tender:

Battery---Heated Jacket Harness with inline fuse---Battery Tender Harness with fuse INLINE (7 amps I think)---Battery Tender

The point is, I'm pretty sure the Battery Tender will use a smaller fuse than the heated jacket, so the Battery Tender harness needs to be the one that can be removed easily, otherwise the fuse will be seen/used, while the Heated Jacket is on and if using more than the just the jacket, the fuse will blow.

And ST11ray, the cord you showed is another good source, however, it still needs a fuse inline and I doubt that store will add one.
Why can't he use just one battery harness with a 15 amp fuse?
 
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Why can't he use just one battery harness with a 15 amp fuse?

The battery tender is PUSHING POWER to the battery, the electric jacket is SUCKING POWER away from the battery. If the battery tender fails and pushes too much power to the battery, it can be a serious problem. ALWAYS USE THE SMALLEST FUSE POSSIBLE.

The Battery Tender Plus output is 1.5 amps. Earlier I said I THOUGHT it might have a 7 amp fuse, now I'm thinking it is probably a 3 amp fuse (I don't have my ST here to look at the harness).

In my early days I tried to jump start a car, only to have the battery blow up, thankfully I wasn't blinded by it, now I respect anything power that gets PUSHED to the battery; make sure everything is connected properly, wear safety glasses, then stand back!
 
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