EC Powerplate Install Questions

[Fastraveller]

I need some help from anyone that has installed an Electrical Connection Power Plate and Universal Ground.

The EC instructions are a bit vague on mounting points and wire-connection points. I plan to mount the fuse block/Power plate at the back of the bike under strap for the tool kit. I need VERY specific responses if at all possible.

1) Where and how did you physically mount the relay on the bike?
2) Where and how did you connect the "black wire" from the relay? The EC Instructions just say "to a suitable ground". There is a ring-terminal and T-tap for this.
3) Where did you mouint the "Blue wire" from the relay? I would prefer to connect it to "the suggested wire which deactiviates when the engine starter is engaged". The instructions state not all bikes have this wire. Does the ST have this wire? If it does, which wire is it and where should I connect to it?
4) Where did you physically mount the Universal Ground unit to the bike?

Thanks for any help,
David

[Fastraveller]

Paul,

What, how and where on the bike did you connect the black wire from the relay to?

Were you able to figure out why the blue wire was killing power to your Powerlets? That's one of the things I want to use this Fuse block for.

Can you connect the wire coming off the EC Ground Plate to the negative terminal of the battery since it's so close already? Is there some disadvantage to doing this?

I plan to install a Centech, to the quartet, at the front of the bike next weekend for lower power accessories so I'll have two switched blocks.

I would prefer to NOT connect ground wires to the frame if possible. Do you have any recommendations for connecting to electrical grounds? I've also read warnings about using brake light wiring for power and ground on bikes with ABS. However, I'm not knowledgable enough to explain why.

Thanks,
David

[crazykz]

I have the Centech mounted up in the fairing but Paul has a point about the fact it's not easy to get to. What I did was when I wired things to the Centech I made sure that I left enough wire that I could pull the fuseblock out from the inside of the fairing by just unfastening the inner cowling. I don't have to take off the inner cowl. I leave the top two plastic rivets in place and I remove the four lower ones and the one screw. Then I have the Centech mounted to 3M dual lock. I can reach up in there and pull the fuse block out. I does take longer than getting under the seat but hopefully I won't need to be up in there very much.

The Centech has a ground bus and has screw down terminals. Both features make it worth using and it's small.

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3205

Curt

[MikeP1300]

Curt;
Is it still snowing up there? Damn, I was working in the yard and on my bike....... outside.
Nice down here, now. July, no.

Anwyway, I'm to the point that I need to clean up the mess of wires under my seat. I operate way above my knowledge when I take the plastic off and look at the battery, so I need simple. All the extra fuses and relays seem a bit complicated if all you need is power. All of my electrical components already have fuses, don't need more..

Is there a simple power distrubution devise that would serve the purpose? You wouldn't believe the weird looks I got today when I described what I wanted.... to auto parts guy, car audio guy, electronics parts girl, and the radio shak guy. I didn't go to West Marine, cuz I got tired of driving all over town. I guess that would've been the best choice, in retrospect. But, hey I'm cheap and didn't want to spend $50 bucks on a Blue Sea.

Ok, I am now resigned to the fact that I'll have to spend some money.

[Highrider]

Mike

A few weeks ago I decided to clean up the wiring and make it easier to power add-ons. Base on a post from Curt and some additional research, I bought the Centech fuse block. It is compact and has some nice features. The Centech has 8 hook ups - 2 with a single fuse and 3 with the conection doubled on a fuse. You don't need special connectors, the screw terminals work great.
After a lot of considering where to mount it I decided on under the seat. I made a simple bracket and verified clearances, so far it works great. I have included some pics that may give you some options.
Thanks Curt for the push in the right direction.

Dave
:biker:

[MikeP1300]

Mike

A few weeks ago I decided to clean up the wiring and make it easier to power add-ons. Base on a post from Curt and some additional research, I bought the Centech fuse block. It is compact and has some nice features. The Centech has 8 hook ups - 2 with a single fuse and 3 with the conection doubled on a fuse. You don't need special connectors, the screw terminals work great.
After a lot of considering where to mount it I decided on under the seat. I made a simple bracket and verified clearances, so far it works great. I have included some pics that may give you some options.
Thanks Curt for the push in the right direction.

Dave
:biker:

Thanks Dave;
very clean. Surprised you have enough clearance in there.

Where did you purchase the centech? I'd like to check out the specs (err...cost).

[crazykz]

Curt;
Is it still snowing up there? Damn, I was working in the yard and on my bike....... outside.
Nice down here, now. July, no.

Anwyway, I'm to the point that I need to clean up the mess of wires under my seat. I operate way above my knowledge when I take the plastic off and look at the battery, so I need simple. All the extra fuses and relays seem a bit complicated if all you need is power. All of my electrical components already have fuses, don't need more..

Is there a simple power distrubution devise that would serve the purpose? You wouldn't believe the weird looks I got today when I described what I wanted.... to auto parts guy, car audio guy, electronics parts girl, and the radio shak guy. I didn't go to West Marine, cuz I got tired of driving all over town. I guess that would've been the best choice, in retrospect. But, hey I'm cheap and didn't want to spend $50 bucks on a Blue Sea.

Ok, I am now resigned to the fact that I'll have to spend some money.


Hi Mike,

It's good to hear from you. Luckily I tuned into this thread. Well I'm not sure where all of your stuff is but if all your stuff goes back to the battery you could just but a terminal strip under the seat.

Here's the type I recommend:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103231&cp=&kw=terminal+strip&parentPage=search

http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2265724w345.jpg

You run 12V from the one side and you can jumper it on that side to other terminals. Then you just put your 12V wires from your devices into that. It's a crude but simple way to do what you need to do. You can use half of it for ground or just use another one.

Is this what you're looking for?

Curt

[Highrider]

You can check out the specifications at :
http://www.centechwire.com/products/index.shtml

Good luck.

Dave
:biker:

[MikeP1300]

Hi Mike,

It's good to hear from you. Luckily I tuned into this thread. Well I'm not sure where all of your stuff is but if all your stuff goes back to the battery you could just but a terminal strip under the seat.

Here's the type I recommend:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103231&cp=&kw=terminal+strip&parentPage=search

http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2265724w345.jpg

You run 12V from the one side and you can jumper it on that side to other terminals. Then you just put your 12V wires from your devices into that. It's a crude but simple way to do what you need to do. You can use half of it for ground or just use another one.

Is this what you're looking for?

Curt


Curt;
In my searching today, I saw that unit at RS. It appeared to me that the terminals were connected across in pairs, not in-lline. I don't know for sure though. I was looking for something to connect a + to one line and - on the other and have the rest free terminals.

By jumpers, do you mean a short loop connecting adjacent terminals. Too much trouble/ places for failure. .

[MikeP1300]

You can check out the specifications at :
http://www.centechwire.com/products/index.shtml

Good luck.

Dave
:biker:


Dave;
Would that be the PDP-3, mini fuse panel?

[Jefro]

I also took Curt's advice and installed the Centech under the rear seat. Very good choice, and a quality unit for $48 online.

[crazykz]

Curt;
In my searching today, I saw that unit at RS. It appeared to me that the terminals were connected across in pairs, not in-lline. I don't know for sure though. I was looking for something to connect a + to one line and - on the other and have the rest free terminals.

By jumpers, do you mean a short loop connecting adjacent terminals. Too much trouble/ places for failure. .

Well I know people that use these with no issues. I do understand your need for something cleaner and easier though. I have not found anything like what you seek but I will say that I use the Centech AP-1 and really like it. You don't need to use connectors with it. You put the wire in and screw it down. Granted it has fuses on it but it does give you the clean solution you want.

I wouldn't recommend it unless I knew of something like you're looking for but I just haven't seen it.

Curt

[MikeP1300]

Well I know people that use these with no issues. I do understand your need for something cleaner and easier though. I have not found anything like what you seek but I will say that I use the Centech AP-1 and really like it. You don't need to use connectors with it. You put the wire in and screw it down. Granted it has fuses on it but it does give you the clean solution you want.

I wouldn't recommend it unless I knew of something like you're looking for but I just haven't seen it.

Curt

Curt;
I'm sure the centech is a fine unit. If Curt has it, it's good. :bow1:

Now that I've broadened my search, found this that West Marine.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/25532/10001/753/118/9

I think that's it.

[crazykz]

Curt;
I'm sure the centech is a fine unit. If Curt has it, it's good. :bow1:

Now that I've broadened my search, found this that West Marine.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/25532/10001/753/118/9

I think that's it.

Yep that's it. And now you've found another one to add to the books. Let me know how it works out. Not sure if the size accomodates tight spots.

$27 for a 5 circuit with a cover. Cheap but not that cheap. You'll probably need a fuse on the positive lead to it depending on where you run it. I recommend a fuse it if you need one. You can get them at Wally World now in the auto electrical section.

http://www.posi-lock.com/NewFiles/BLADE-FUSEHOLDERweb.jpg

Curt

[MikeP1300]

Ok, the Centech AP-1 looks pretty hard to beat. The Blue Sea dual bus was 30bucks w/ cover , AP-1 $50. Centech wins.

I think there's room for it on top of the battery.

I guess if I didn't want to worry about the fuses for each device already installed, I could put a 20amp in each one and use the proper amp fuse in the Centech. That way, I wouldn't have to dig very far to replace a fuse. Like I had to do when I plugged the air pump in the 2amp outlet in the fairing pocket.
Pooof! Guess where that little ******* was?

Have you ordered from them online?

[STeve1300]

I was looking for something to connect a + to one line and - on the other and have the rest free terminals.


I can't think of any reason NOT to use a fuse block. It's easier once it's installed to do any additions/ subtractions of devices. If you need to work on something, just pull one fuse. Anyway you decide to go, the ground (-) wire won't be coming back to the supply (+) block. Ground to a ground block or frame (which will in most cases be a shorter wire run). Even if you are able to find a power strip that suits you, you will still need to protect that with a main fuse.

edit... oops, I'm slow....you and Curt already got it figured out....have fun!!!

[crazykz]

Have you ordered from them online?

I have ordered the Centech online. I'm not sure you'll be able to fit it on top of the battery though without relocating the 30Amp main fuse.

You found the bus you wanted. You sure you don't want that? I like the Centech too though.

Curt

[MikeP1300]

I can't think of any reason NOT to use a fuse block. It's easier once it's installed to do any additions/ subtractions of devices. If you need to work on something, just pull one fuse. Anyway you decide to go, the ground (-) wire won't be coming back to the supply (+) block. Ground to a ground block or frame (which will in most cases be a shorter wire run). Even if you are able to find a power strip that suits you, you will still need to protect that with a main fuse.

edit... oops, I'm slow....you and Curt already got it figured out....have fun!!!

Thanks for the input STeve. It's sort of figured out, but I could change my mind any minute. I may go by West Marine today just to browse their selections.