Joined the "Stripped Oil Drain Plug" group today.

[sirepair]

I dunno Pat, how will you keep the drill bit and tap straight and true? I kinda like the oversized plug better. At least if it fails you can always turn to the drill/tap...

It's a non-stressed (well, other than the torque on the plug) fastener; not super critical to be precise. As long as the hole isn't "wallered" out, it should be OK. I have access to the same tooling that is used for Honda auto parts mfg (I work at a tier 1 supplier) so a good, sharp bit and tap won't be a problem! Just have to make sure that I don't drink too much caffeine before "surgery"!

 

[hoowasat]

Anyone ever use these?

http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html

Yes, and they're preferred over Helicoils for use in aluminum because they're a solid machined piece versus a wound piece of wire. Timeserts best attribute is that they require minimal drilling oversize because the insert's external threads are not much larger in diameter than the internal threads. In fact, they're called "Time"-serts because the internal & external threads are "timed" with each other when machined. When I needed an insert where external thread size is not much concern, I made my own by drilling/tapping through the center of a length of all-thread or through a bolt.

 

[The Dan]

NAPA has them in stock if you get in a jam and need one fast......and yes 12x1.25 is the correct size DUH!!!! My memory is shot.

 

[BakerBoy]

Per the ST1300 parts catalog, the ST1300 drain plug is a "BOLT, DRAIN PLUG (14MM)", part number 90004-MCS-000. Anyone know the thread pitch?

Edit: Per the 1998 ST1100A fiche, a ST1100 a drain plug is a "BOLT, DRAIN (12MM)", part number 92800-12000. Per above posts, it has a 1.25 thread pitch (ie, is a 12x1.25 thread).

 

[sirepair]

Per the ST1300 parts catalog, the ST1300 drain plug is a "BOLT, DRAIN PLUG (14MM)", part number 90004-MCS-000. Anyone know the thread pitch?

14mm pitch is probably 1.5, at least the plug that I got is. Pretty common plug.

 

[T_C]

For those less knowledgeable, with a metric thread you subtract the pitch from the thread size to get the correct tap drill size.

Okay... me confused. What does pitch have to do with diameter of the tap hole? If it is a 1 or 1.5 pitch the thread depth is the same, no?

 

[hoowasat]

Okay... me confused. What does pitch have to do with diameter of the tap hole? If it is a 1 or 1.5 pitch the thread depth is the same, no?

Different thread pitches have different diameters to the roots of the threads, hence different starter-hole diameters for tapping. A 1mm pitch thread will have a more shallow thread than a 1.5mm pitch thread, thus it will require a larger starter-hole.

 

[st1300r]

for a 14x1.5 thread the drill is 14-1.5 or 12.5mm
for a 14x2 thread the drill is 14-2 or 12mm
and so on.

pretty sure the 1300 is a std 14-1.5 thread.

 

[sirepair]

Ok, the plug has been repaired.

With the threads stripped from the previous plug, I was able to take the 1/2" drill bit and run it in the hole by hand; took out very little, if any material! Covered the end of the tap with bearing grease and carefully started it in the hole.

Once it bottomed out, I backed it out and noted a good bit of debris on the tap. Then I took several Q-tips, dipped in grease, and swabbed out more bits. Once I felt that I had all the bits cleaned out, I stuck the red nozzle of a can of carb cleaner up in the hole, past the debris, and emptied about 1/2 the can in there to backflush the hole.

I then took the new plug and installed it; I *think* it must be an oversized one (didn't say that on the package!) because it basically retapped the hole. I would turn it in a couple of turns, back it out and go some more.

I cleaned the hole again as above and ran the plug back in. I left the plug out for now to allow the carb cleaner to dry.

I think the repair will be ok. Threads look pretty good. I'll use a rubber washer and go easy on the torque.

 

[970mike]

Great job on getting the threads redone. You may want to pour a little oil through the engine leaving the plug out to make sure all of the junk is out the crankcase. It would be cheap insurance.

 

[LarryC]

Sounds like you got er done Pat. I like Mike's idea about pouring some thin oil in to flush any crap out.

 

[sirepair]

Great job on getting the threads redone. You may want to pour a little oil through the engine leaving the plug out to make sure all of the junk is out the crankcase. It would be cheap insurance.

Sounds like you got er done Pat. I like Mike's idea about pouring some thin oil in to flush any crap out.

That was the purpose of the carb cleaner flush. By using the little red tube that comes with the cleaner, I put the tip in past the plug and let-er rip! I then took clean Q-tips and swabbed up what didn't drain back out.

I need to get a bore scope! Would have made inspecting the hole very easy!!

 

[RaYzerman]

Good job, Pat. Hopefully the frickin' and frackin' has subsided significantly .......

 

[ReSTored]

Sounds like you've got it sorted out. But any residual bits go thought the filter befored before being distributed out so you're covered both ways I think.

 

[Brant]

Ok, the plug has been repaired.

With the threads stripped from the previous plug, I was able to take the 1/2" drill bit and run it in the hole by hand; took out very little, if any material! Covered the end of the tap with bearing grease and carefully started it in the hole.

Once it bottomed out, I backed it out and noted a good bit of debris on the tap. Then I took several Q-tips, dipped in grease, and swabbed out more bits. Once I felt that I had all the bits cleaned out, I stuck the red nozzle of a can of carb cleaner up in the hole, past the debris, and emptied about 1/2 the can in there to backflush the hole.

I then took the new plug and installed it; I *think* it must be an oversized one (didn't say that on the package!) because it basically retapped the hole. I would turn it in a couple of turns, back it out and go some more.

I cleaned the hole again as above and ran the plug back in. I left the plug out for now to allow the carb cleaner to dry.

I think the repair will be ok. Threads look pretty good. I'll use a rubber washer and go easy on the torque.

One of the hard fiber washers for that application would have a better seal. Rubber doesn't like heat or petroleum products.

 

[broc11]

What's the easiest/best option for an over tightened potentially stripped drain plug? not leaking but next oil change will tell the tale,

anyone ever considered one of these http://www.fumotousa.com/

 

[broc11]

[quote;1743615]That is a neat product but hanging under the bike could be an issue..[/quote]

I thought maybe with the forward facing drain bolt on the ST that it might work.

 

[Fearmor]

I thought maybe with the forward facing drain bolt on the ST that it might work.

Thats a handy looking item Brendan and as you say should be safe to use with forward facing drainer.You can have one ready for your next oil change

 

[Firstpeke]

That looks like an interesting idea!

Of course if it were fitted you would need to wirelock it closed, otherwise some charming little.... person... could come along and drain it for you.....

 

[ST1100Y]

I'd be concerned about protection from corrosion and road grid... especially on the Britt isles though :lol: