So the meter does read '120' and drops to '115', or with the wasted spark '240' and drops to '230'? With your recommendation I'll probably buy that meter and Honda special tool for a new STOC loaner tool kit...
Also, shouldn't the idle drop procedure be done with the air cleaner buttoned up?
John
I left the air box off as per Adam's procedure.Asked him that question to confirm that was correct and he said it was.
Not sure what "wasted spark" is.
The display will give you 2 digits.X 100,so 57 is 570 rpm.You'll be concerned with the second number.If it's going from 49(0)-58(0),a 90 rpm fluctuation,that's more than a 50rpm change,if it's going from 52(0)-56(0),that's a 40 rpm fluctuation,your within spec .The actual idle setting isn't as important as the fluctuation.You will be affecting the reading on the bikes tach so you have to adjust to keep that in spec as you would during a carb sync,which you will have to do again after the ID procedure.
Your target is to keep that fluctuation within the 50rpm +/- goal.
You have a guide on the carb bodies to help get the tool in,you just have to get a feel for it.#1 is the most difficult to see.
Until the bike is on the road,I can't say it's fixed but she is running sweet on the lift.The HF DDM is well-built and at $35 on sale it's a good deal even if you don't end up using it for the ID procedure.
Someone more familiar with procedure could probably explain this more thoroughly or correctly,just my initial thoughts from doing this the first time.
I would think using an exhaust sniffer would be more effective.I have a Gunnson and plan on doing this at the former PAIR ports by using a homemade attachment from the PAIR piping.Would like to see the CO output and how it's affected by the P.mixture screws