St1300 PA wiring handlebar switches

Just a FYI. The fog, DL lights on switch 1 & 4 worked. Also I wired a powerlet to the black 6 pin in the tail, just ground and power, it magically works on switch 5.
 
Ryan_B said:
Here you go. I assume Switch 3 and 5 are both the relays that i haven't messed with. I also assume that is the black connection. Lots of assuming here! ;)
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Boy, I wished I had found this thread BEFORE I wired my switch up! I would have saved me time and guesswork/assumptions (see what I did there?)! I was using a diagram that was intended for the 1100 whereas the 1300 switch is a little different.

Your assumptions for Switches 3 & 5 are correct and they are wired from the black connector. I've taken the liberty of updating your picture, in case someone is needing the info:
IMG_20210414_205946 (updated).jpg

The thing that took me a while to figure out, at least until I looked closely at the wiring diagram, Is that switch 5 isn't simply an open/close bridge but actually supplies +12V through the red/yellow wire if the key is turned to Ignition but NOT when it is turned to Accessory.

@Ryan_B Where did you get your connectors?
 
Ryan_B said:
Nexus, thank you for completing the picture!

I used this kit from Amazon for the connectors:

-Ryan
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Ahh, Thanks! That will be super useful! I'm dealing with this right now:
View media item 394I've used posi-taps and wago nuts to help with setting it up and trouble-shooting. I've got 2 sets of lights. One set mounted low on the front wneel and another mounted high on the mirror mounts. Each light can output in white or yellow. I've set it up so switch 1 turns on the wheel lights in white, switch 4 turns on the mirror lights in white and button 5 overrides both and turns them on in yellow. I used 3 relays, and set up wiring for acessories (USBs, power outlets, etc) and heated grips as well, so the spaghetti is growing!
 
RichKat said:
I got the kit you recommended (thanks for posting the link) can you tell me, which tabs work with the Honda connector?
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The green Honda connection in the posts above has the female side of the flat blade type. If you are wiring directly to that, I used the 9 pin connector and added the flat "male" connector to the switches/power/ground connections I needed. Only one connector from that kit should fit that plug housing, only one option for the blade connector too if I remember correctly.

For the auxiliary wiress that run to the front, behind the mirrors - I actually cut the stock round bullet connections off at the tail section and wired in a 4 connector plug from the kit. I am not sure if the round style from this kit is a direct fit to Honda's. I already had the front connections complete to the lighting prior to buying this kit.

Hope that helps!
Ryan
 
Ryan_B said:
The green Honda connection in the posts above has the female side of the flat blade type. If you are wiring directly to that, I used the 9 pin connector and added the flat "male" connector to the switches/power/ground connections I needed. Only one connector from that kit should fit that plug housing, only one option for the blade connector too if I remember correctly.

For the auxiliary wiress that run to the front, behind the mirrors - I actually cut the stock round bullet connections off at the tail section and wired in a 4 connector plug from the kit. I am not sure if the round style from this kit is a direct fit to Honda's. I already had the front connections complete to the lighting prior to buying this kit.

Hope that helps!
Ryan
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Yes, Thank you Ryan
 
Police bars mount in the holes in front of the tip over bar covers, and thru the black grill in front of the cylinder head cover
 
RichKat said:
Police bars mount in the holes in front of the tip over bar covers, and thru the black grill in front of the cylinder head cover
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Yeah, I see that now:
N34-2EngineGuards-10S.jpg


Now that I think about it, there's not much behind there to mount something solid to.
 
I may start a new thread for this question, but here we go.

I put on a highway blaster horn a while back in place of OEM, works great, dare I say obnoxious. When traveling around and wishing to honk the horn to say "hi" I don't , the horn is way to loud for that. Looking to add the OEM or another meep meep that I have for the "hi" utilizing switch 3 on the right switch pod. It is powered(?) from switch 5 with 3 closing the ground which is opposite of everything else on the pod.

The question is how does one wire this unless it as a simple as running a hot to the horn from #5 and the ground from #3?( @aniwack )

An aside, the wires from my original setup were getting warm, I installed a fuse block and use the switches as triggers for relays.

Thank you all for this thread it is incredibly helpful, cheers.
 
I know this!! I know this!!

Ok so looking at the photo on response #2 that is the connector inside the hump. Let's look at the connector at the handlebar. Switch #5 is a on/off button and Slider position #3 is a MOMENTARY switch used to advance a siren or honk a horn. Your wires are getting warm because they are not the proper gauge for what you are doing. I build out harnesses for fun [said no one ever] so what I would do in your case [haven't read the full thread] is run a 16 gauge up the right frame to the connector then to the horn. Remember it's a grounded circuit so you need to ground the output side of the horn.
 

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aniwack said:
I know this!! I know this!!

Ok so looking at the photo on response #2 that is the connector inside the hump. Let's look at the connector at the handlebar. Switch #5 is a on/off button and Slider position #3 is a MOMENTARY switch used to advance a siren or honk a horn. Your wires are getting warm because they are not the proper gauge for what you are doing. I build out harnesses for fun [said no one ever] so what I would do in your case [haven't read the full thread] is run a 16 gauge up the right frame to the connector then to the horn. Remember it's a grounded circuit so you need to ground the output side of the horn.
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Good stuff, question on the connector up on the right,
5BF3B3AD-1F7A-41BD-BA86-C0AB4EBB9973.jpeg
the 9 pin is the switch pod. Where would you connect and how would that go to #3 that is a bullet connector on the left side by the clutch bleeder? I’m like a golden retriever with this.
 
Willsmotorcycle said:
Good stuff, question on the connector up on the right,

the 9 pin is the switch pod. Where would you connect and how would that go to #3 that is a bullet connector on the left side by the clutch bleeder? I’m like a golden retriever with this.
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Ok, so keep in mind that this thread is mostly about where the wires x0me out in the radio box. That being said Honda is pretty good about keeping the same color wire though out so the colors should be the same:

Refer to the wiring diagram. Specifically the 1,2,3 switch grid center bottom):
ST1300PA wiring-2.png

According to the diagram switch 3 shorts the O/Bl (Orange/Black?) and G (Green?). I would tap into those wires and see if this is correct. If so, then you're golden. Otherwise, trial and error is your friend (with a multi tester). Post your results. I'm thinking of installing a police switch on a non-police bike.

On an aside. I would not wire your horn directly to the switch. It's/they're not made for high-power devices. I would use the switch to run a relay and use the relay to run your item.

Keep in mind that to use switch 3, both 1 and 2 have to be on. Not a problem unless you want to use then for something else.
 
Nexus said:
According to the diagram switch 3 shorts the O/Bl (Orange/Black?) and G (Green?). I would tap into those wires and see if this is correct. If so, then you're golden. Otherwise, trial and error is your friend (with a multi tester). Post your results. I'm thinking of installing a police switch on a non-police bike.

On an aside. I would not wire your horn directly to the switch. It's/they're not made for high-power devices. I would use the switch to run a relay and use the relay to run your item.

Keep in mind that to use switch 3, both 1 and 2 have to be on. Not a problem unless you want to use then for something else.
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I noticed SW 3(-) for switch 3. I have an LED set up to the bullet connector on the left side as I'm trying to figure it out, you can't run power through SW 3 it will blow the fuse, trust me. The power comes from SW 5, so that has to be on as well.

Honda says 30w for SW 1 or 2, my spots are a lot more than that apparently and my fogs are just a little more so I relayed them on SW 1 and SW 2. They are always on for me making SW 3 available. I'm going to test just bringing new power to the horn, grounded with the bullet connector on the left, trying to keep my assaults on the factory loom to a minimum.

Edit: That doesn't work, I have to pull the power from SW 5
 
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