Seattle to Colorado ? Third Time?s a Charm

Joined
Nov 6, 2010
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490
Location
Maple Valley, WA
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2001 ST1100
STOC #
8294
I'm finally getting around to a ride report for the ride I took in May to Colorado. I wanted to get it posted before I leave for WeSTOC, so here goes...

For the third year in a row, I decide to ride my ST1100 to a technical conference in Colorado, rather than the usual (commercial air flight + rental car = boring) approach. This year the conference was being held in Colorado Springs rather than Denver like the previous years. My previous routes were east across Washington and into Idaho to ride Highway 12 along the Lochsa River and over Lolo Pass (I love that road!), then south through Wyoming and entering Colorado from the north.

This time I decided to mix it up and check off some bucket list items. I?ve never seen the Grand Canyon, except from 30,000 feet. I?ve also seen great ride reports about Monument Valley and the Million Dollar Highway (Highway 550 from Durango to Ouray) in Colorado. Since they?re all in the same general neighborhood, the plan was to swing south through eastern Oregon and Nevada, clip the SE corner of Utah and hit the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, then ride east to Monument Valley to Durango, up the 550 to Montrose, then across the Rockies into Colorado Springs. Thanks to forum members Sportznut and Bakerboy for their great suggestions on the route.

Day 1 Seattle to Baker City, Oregon

The bike is packed and cleared for departure. I had heard on the news that Chinook Pass (Highway 410) would open at 10:00am that morning and it is a much more enjoyable route than Interstate 90 over the Cascades. Kick Stand Up at 9:00 would put me at the pass just after opening. I take this as a good omen for the trip. When the weather cooperates, there are great views of Mount Rainier along this route, unfortunately there are low clouds today with only teasing views of the lower slopes. I get to the pass a bit after 10 and there?s no cars, just a lonely snowplow that pulls over to let me pass. I suspect I?m the first bike over this season.

As is typical, once east of the crest the clouds thin out and it?s a mix of sun and overcast. The weather is good, the bike is purring along and my mind is slipping into touring mode. That is rudely interrupted south of Yakima due to the dreaded ?Construction Ahead, Expect Delays? sign. I had an enforced 20 minute rest from the saddle, followed by several miles of loose gravel. But it was soon over enough and I was whistling toward the Columbia River gorge and its arrays of wind power generators.
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Side winds blowing up the river can be quite nasty but they are cooperative today and I cross into Oregon behind a couple of adventure bikes loaded with gear. I ride southeast to intersect Highway 26 which runs along the John Day River in eastern central Oregon. (Editor?s note: I need to get a SPOT so I don?t have to type all this route info!) I haven?t ridden here before and find lots of beautiful scenery and interesting geology.

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The day ends at a motel in Baker City where I pull in to find a red ST1300 parked next to a Harley. I hope to meet the ST rider before I leave. Dinner is at a brew pub a few blocks away and the walk feels good. A good steak and a couple of excellent pints cap a great first day.
 
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MV_Dave
Joined
Nov 6, 2010
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490
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Maple Valley, WA
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2001 ST1100
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8294
Day 2 Baker City to Ely, Nevada

I keep my eye out for the ST rider as I grab a quick bite in the motel lobby. No obvious suspects yet. The walls of the lobby are filled with posters of Lee Marvin and Clint Eastwood. Owner must be a movie buff, I figure. But upon closer inspection I learn that the movie ?Paint Your Wagon? was filmed here and some of the crew stayed in that motel. So I may have stayed in the very room as the man who held the boom mike to capture Clint?s first (and hopefully last) musical film role. As I start to load the bike a nice couple comes up and starts to ask the bike. It turns out to be the ST1300 rider and his wife who rides the Harley. As we chat, he is shocked to find out my bike has 97K miles on it. ?What do you have to do to get that many miles out of an ST?? he asks. My first reaction is to respond ?Nothing, just gas and go!? but that seemed a bit flippant. So instead I said that if you keep up with oil and fluid changes and moly your splines, it will last forever. I wonder what his reaction would be seeing the mileage on one of George?s or Uncle Phil?s bikes. (Editor?s note: Someone needs to make ?Moly your splines? bumper stickers).

The plan today is to head east (great name for a rock band) to Mountain Home, Idaho then south on Highway 51 into Nevada to Elko, then east on I-80 to catch 93 south into the Great Basin of eastern Nevada. Again, the weather is fine, the bike is running great, traffic is light and I?m making good time.

I generally try to avoid the interstates when I tour except when I need to munch miles to get home, but I need to run a stretch of I-80 to connect the secondary roads. The good news is that the speed limit is 75 MPH (and the traffic flows 80-85). So I?m cruising along doing a few MPH more than the cars and trucks in the right lane when one of the car I?m about to pass reveals itself as a Crown Victoria belonging to the state of Nevada. I?m treated to a free light show and a friendly invitation to a chat on the side of the road. Would this be my first performance award on the ST? I saw in the mirror that he wasn?t carrying a citation book in his hand as he walked up to me (that?s a good sign). He says he paced me at 85 and that that 10 over is a $110 fine in Nevada (that?s a bad sign). He asks for my license but not registration or insurance card (don?t know which sign that is). As he examines my license, he slowly pronounces the name of my town ?Maple Valley?. I?m about to explain that is just outside of Seattle, but before I can get the words outs he says ?Then I guess you know where Lake Desire is. I grew up there?. So it turns out the Nevada trooper that pulled me over grew up about 4 miles from my house (this is a very good sign). My first performance award will have to wait for another day and I get the lecture rather than the ticket. Another good trip omen.

I wasn?t sure what to expect from the ride through eastern Nevada. I didn?t see much on the map and many of the small towns turned out to be boarded up ghost towns. I decided that this is where America keeps its supply of Nothingness. So if you run short of Nothing, they?ve got lots of it in Nevada (no offence intended).

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I figured to get to Ely, NV by early evening and would spend the night there. As I roll into town (Population 4255), I pass a Corvette with racing stickers and numbers on the side then a GT40 similarly decked out. At the first motel I pass, the parking lot is full of Corvettes including a couple of race prepped ones on trailers. On the way to the next motel, I pass a couple of souped up 70?s muscle car and then a Plymouth Road Runner Superbird(!) along with a variety of imports from Porsches to STIs to 350Zs. I wonder if I have somehow stumbled onto the set of the next ?Fast and Furious? movie. The clerk at the motel explains that I have instead stumbled onto the Nevada Open Road Challenge aka the Silver State Classic Challenge (http://www.sscc.us/), a 90 mile Cannonball Rally type race on a closed section of Highway 318 between Ely and Las Vegas where many of the cars are hitting 200+ MPH.

Dinner is Carne Asada and a Negro Modelo at the local Mexican place watching the car show out the window. I think to myself that this is exactly the kind of coincidental surprise (serendipity) that makes touring so pleasurable.
 
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MV_Dave
Joined
Nov 6, 2010
Messages
490
Location
Maple Valley, WA
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2001 ST1100
STOC #
8294
Day 3 Ely to Kayenta, AZ

Being a stereotypical Seattle coffee snob, I like to bring single serving packets of Starbucks Via coffee (I get the 24 pack at Costco) so I know I?ll have a decent cup to start the day. The in-room coffee maker provides the hot water so I can slurp and pack. I am on the bike by 7am and I notice that all the hot cars are absent. Today is race day and they are all out at the starting line.

The ride south from Ely to Panaca is quite desolate and the road is deserted. After the turn east toward Cedar City, Utah the scenery starts to pick up with some nice snow capped mountains. I am a sucker for cool geological formations so I made sure to include southern Utah on my route. Highway 14 east through the Cedar Breaks area does not disappoint. Massive red rock cliffs, river cut canyons, pine forests and high meadows make for stunning scenery.

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I head south at the junction with Highway 89 and am greatly tempted by the turn off for Zion National Park but I have a different natural wonder on the list today. I continue south into Arizona (and new state to color in on my map) and head to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. There are lots of bikes out today being a sunny Sunday and only the second weekend that the North side has been open. I won?t try to describe the visual impact of seeing the Canyon for the first time as I would run out of adjectives. It really is something everyone should see in their lifetime.

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After lunch on the deck overlooking the canyon, I go inside the lodge where soft leather chairs are arranged to look out through floor to ceiling picture windows. I sit down to check on my hotel reservation for the conference and as I?m getting my phone out I hear a voice say ?You must be on that ST1100?. It was another ST rider who lives in Canada but leaves his bike in Arizona. He had just fetched it and was starting back to Canada. If you?re a forum member, please give a shout out. At first I thought how could he have known that I had an ST? Then I realized I was the only one in the Lodge with a Hi-Viz ATGATT suit and carrying a tank bag. Maybe he wasn?t so psychic after all. But it was another fun surprise.

I could have sat there all day admiring the views of the Canyon but I needed to keep moving. My original plan was to ride east to Page, AZ and then on to Kayenta, but a large landslide had closed the road to Page, requiring a detour south via Tuba City. I had low expectations for this section expecting it to be desolate scrub land. But I was blown away by the Vermillion Cliffs. Miles and miles of a massive (2000-3000 ft tall) cliff of amazing red-orange rock! Maybe if it wasn?t so close to the Grand Canyon it would be its own National Park.

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The afternoon ride to Kayenta had some serious side winds. I had never actually seen a tumbleweed tumble until that day. Dodging them was entertaining, dodging the wind blasts from passing semi trucks not so much. I found a motel with several bikes (of the Milwaukee persuasion) parked outside. Dining options were slim so I settled for a Subway sandwich and went to bed early.
 
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MV_Dave
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Maple Valley, WA
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2001 ST1100
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8294
Day 4 Kayenta to Colorado Springs

The motel had a decent breakfast offering so I carbo loaded myself and then hydrocarbon loaded the bike for the morning ride through Monument Valley. This place is the iconic image of the open road and wide open spaces. I had seen it in so many pictures and old Western movies that it almost looked familiar but this was real. The morning light really brought out the color of the rocks and I was constantly stopping for pictures.

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The scenery is quite dramatic and it greatly appealed to my inner geology geek.

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It was however at one picture stop that I logged my first tip over. I?m not sure what was worse, the broken mirror and scratched side case or how stupid I felt for having left the bike vulnerable to the wind. I did stop calling myself ?Stupid! Stupid! Stupid!? after about 100 miles or so. Luckily it?s hard to face-palm yourself when wearing a full face helmet.

The plan for the day was ride through Monument Valley then east to Durango and ride the 550 (Million Dollar Highway) followed by a glorious ride over the Rockies and into Colorado Springs. I was advised (thanks Bakerboy) to check the weather before I committed to the route as much of the day would be at 8-10,000 ft and spring weather in the mountains can be fickle. Unfortunately for me, there was a big low pressure system sitting over Colorado (I believe this was the weather system that spawned the tornado in Moore, OK the following day). The forecast for the mountains was for thundershowers turning to sleet or snow. So discretion being the better part of valor and all that, I elected to forego the mountain route and instead ride through northern New Mexico (color in another state) on Highway 64. I did get a few snowflakes going through the San Juan mountains but nothing to worry about. While it wasn?t the Rockies, there was still plenty of beautiful scenery. From Highway 64, it was north on 295 to Alamosa, CO then east on 160 to I-25, dodging dark rain clouds the whole way.

In Alamosa I got a call from a colleague who had arrived in Colorado Springs. He was worried about me because from the hotel all he could see was black clouds over the mountains with frequent lightning. It would not have been a pleasant ride so I didn?t feel so bad about bailing out on the original route. I check into the hotel, meet my colleague for dinner and return to my room for surgery on the broken mirror parts.
 
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MV_Dave
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Maple Valley, WA
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8294
Day 8 Colorado Springs to Bliss, ID

Fast forward to the return trip (you didn?t expect me to describe the conference in a ride report now did you?). Actually, rewind just a bit. On the last day the conference organizer asks ?Is that your ST out there? I have one just like it!? Yet another fun surprise. He said he was a member of the forum but not very active. Hi Dave!

The ride back begins early by necessity. This is the Friday before the Memorial Day weekend so I want to get on the road before the holiday traffic surge. The weather is a low overcast but is expected to burn off into a sunny day. Planning the route home was a balance between enjoying some Colorado mountain riding and getting some miles in so I get home in two days. The compromise is to ride Highway 24 out of Colorado Springs, connecting to Highway 82 over Independence Pass, through Aspen to Glenwood Springs, then I-70 west into Utah to Highway 6 through Price to I-15 and Salt Lake City and see how long I can last.

It will be a long day so kick stand is up a bit after 6am. By 7:30 the overcast is gone and the sky is perfectly blue, as in not a single cloud to be found. In fact, I don?t see a cloud until I am in Idaho in the early evening. The ride up 24 is great. Traffic clears out nicely and the scenery is lovely. It?s tempting to stop and take lots of pictures but I resist the urge in order to stay on schedule. Before long I?m into the switchbacks leading up to the pass. There?s still plenty of snow and a good crowd of people parked at the summit enjoying it. So many that the obligatory pic of the bike next to the summit sign is not possible.

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The downhill run becomes very interesting as several of the shaded corners have sheets of ice covering them. I have a strict limit of one tip over per trip so I slow down and stay upright over the slick sections. Then it?s through Aspen (I don?t want to know what the houses cost) and then Glenwood Springs where the trip changes from enjoyable mountain touring to mile munching on the slab. I pass the turn off to Moab, UT which was very tempting but not this trip. The temperature is now in the low 90?s as opposed to the 30?s over the pass, and I am impressed with how comfortable I am with the all the vents open on my Firstgear Jaunt jacket. So kudos to Firstgear for a versatile jacket.

Not much to describe on this section, just racking up the miles. I knew that I would be hitting Salt Lake City around rush hour on the start of the Memorial Day weekend. There was a logjam of cars, campers, boat and RVs heading south out of the city as I am northbound on I-15. The HOV lane is much appreciated and traffic is no worse than a typical commute in Seattle. It?s been about 11 hours on the bike but I feel good enough to push into Idaho on I-84. I finally see my first cloud of the day along with the first LEO, an Idaho State Trooper making some poor sap?s weekend memorable. Finally my butt is telling me it is done for the day so a motel in Bliss, ID will be home for the night. The caf? next door serves up a passable chicken fried steak and I don?t have to work hard to get to sleep. I log my longest day of riding ever, 14 hours and over 800 miles.
 
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MV_Dave
Joined
Nov 6, 2010
Messages
490
Location
Maple Valley, WA
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2001 ST1100
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8294
Day 9, Bliss, ID to Maple Valley, WA

This will be an easier day, only about 570 miles to home. It will be all slab until Yakima, WA where I will return over Chinook Pass. There?s not much interesting until I?m in the Blue Mountains in eastern Oregon. I find myself passing the a red Toyota, which later passes me back. We play leapfrog several times and eventually we separate. A few miles later I pull into a rest stop for a bio-break and a quick drink and snack. As I?m standing there next to the bike, a lovely young lady in her early 20s comes up and asks about traveling long distances on a bike. It turns out she is Miss Red Toyota and was apparently checking us out on the road. I try to give her a condensed version of how riding is such a visceral mode of transportation and how you aren?t insulated from the environment like in a car. After a brief chat, we?re both on our way. I log another fun discovery ? the ST is a chick magnet! :-D

The rest of the ride is unremarkable. A few raindrops welcome me back to Western Washington and no views of Mt. Rainier are to be had.

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Another hour and I am home.

Total mileage for this trip was 3516 using 76 gallons of gas for an average of 46.3 mpg. The bike ran flawlessly from sea level to 12,000ft and from temps in the 30s to the 90s.

The conference is scheduled for Colorado Springs again next year. Weather permitting; I?ll get to do my original planned route through Colorado. I also have a conference in Phoenix the week before CO-STOC. Hmmm, maybe I will see the Million Dollar Highway this year after all. Stay tuned? :-D
 

gmast1100

Gettin old sux
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Dave, an absolute GREAT ride report and good pics also. Thanks so much for letting me 'ride' along with ya. I've been on quite a few of the roads that you traveled and can attest that they are "GREAT M/C' roads.

I also agree with Jim. I used to live in Colorado and I MISS the riding there. This is gonna be the 'tell tale' year for us here in Texas. One more HOT summer and there's gonna be a move back to the mountains!!!! If ya do get to CoSTOC this year, look us up, we'lll be there. Can't miss us, both on 1100's.
 
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Awesome write up! I wish i was a word smith like you. Reading and REreading your trip notes makes me miss my long ride this summer and imagine other long rides... but summer is here and my long rides will be in my boat exploring our area some more...
 
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