Road Trip?

[Upt' North]

Was this a road trip, I don't know, but it was one hell of a ride.
I'll do two or three days at a time and do it when I can.
It was about 4 weeks ago when we headed south on the 11, Er indoors on the back and me piloting.
First day was a haul down to Kent before passing over to France on the tunnel the following day. 420 miles of motorway including the M1, M25 and the Dartford Crossing. If anyone has ever listened to UK traffic news these are the roads to hell, Chris Rea even sung about them! It was about 6 hours of riding plus stops but a good night's kip and a good meal saw us up early to cross under the Channel to France.
It was good weather and we rode south into France and got off the Autoroute as soon as possible to enjoy some French D roads, didn't quite work out that way because French D roads don't always work out that way, but we were in Arras for lunch and then onto Martin Puich our base for 3 nights whilst visiting war graves. I have two great uncles who never came home in 1918 and this was our time to pay our respects. As far as I know no one had previously visited.
The next day saw us ride to Ploegsteert memorial in Belgium. Wow, who'd have thought it, a man I had never known, who gave his life so I could live mine reduced me to an emotional wreck. I have ridden past war graves on numerous occasions but this was different, this was personal. I haven't gone 24 hours without thinking about it since, I don't think I ever will.


Picture is of Ploegsteert, thousands still missing in the mud of France but remembered by many.
It was back to Silent Picket b and b and a cold beer was called for after some filtering nonsense on the Autoroutes.
Picture below is the b and b, and the rear garden, you dig in the Somme and this is what pops up. Literally.



I hope you're enjoying it so far and after another day visiting my other great uncle we'll head South.
Carcassonne and the Midi Pyrenees beckon.
Upt'North.

 

[Upt' North]

Day 4 5 6 7 and 8, I think!
After a Jennie Breakfast we set out for Newfoundland Park, this was really a rest day from riding, we'd probably only do 20 miles all day. We were off to catch up with another great uncle who had died on the first day of the Somme. The battle started at 0730 and my great uncles battalion were all dead or wounded by 0735. I still can't get my head around that. We were guided around the park by a young Canadian lady on summer work, she was fantastic, thank you Canada you certainly know how to remember your lost ones. My uncles cemetery is within the park at Hawthorn Ridge 2. We were the only motorcyclists there, but we had a good conversation with some Newfoundlanders.
After the guided tour we stayed a while and paid respects.



We visited several other cemeteries and memorials this day, unless you have been or studied the area it isn't obvious but there are memorials around every corner. God bless them all.
The next picture includes Hawthorn crater, I'm not going to make this a lesson on the great war but it was an enormous cock up on the part of the allies. Wrong time, wrong place and no secondary planning.



After another night at the Silent Picket we headed south to the Loire Valley, we would ride about 300 miles and this would include the Paris Peripherique. The Peripherique is like no other city ring road. One of the only good things about French drivers is they are the most bike aware I have ever come across. They literally dive out of your way and signal you past, whether you wish to go or not. Hats off to the French bike filterers, hazards constantly on, and no braking. They seem to get away with it and we did our fair share.
The day went well and the temperature was creeping up, maybe 80 or so and clear skies. Our room for the night was a b and b in the middle of nowhere and about 10 miles away we were signed on a deviation. Only to find the Sunday flea market on the deviation. Only the French!
Next day would see us ride south to the Dordogne and Lot regions and would be a longish day in the saddle. This was the days end in Rocamadour, lovely old town and some great quiet roads to enjoy.



After a really great night, best duck ever, well not for the duck. We would ride down to Pepieux near Carcassonne and the Midi Pyrenees region. Cripes it got hot, blummin hot then some, jacket vents were opened and the screen was lowered. Obviously we got lost in a very hot Carcassonne, I suppose it had to happen but a good night of more duck and cheap wine followed. It's amazing how wine can make you forget pain, well at least until you try to get your head off the pillow next morning. By now we were about 1200 miles in. We stayed here two nights so had a day off in Carcassonne other than the shortish ride in. Piccie below. See, even Er Indoors has forgotten about her sore Arris. I've just noticed she who must be obeyed is touching the grip, I'll tell her about that!



Next day would see us strike East for the Alps a long Autoroute day. That will be another episode. Worthy of mention though is that I had the best Entrecote ever that night, and yes, too much red wine or vin rouge.
Upt'North.

 

[Upt' North]

The first week or so had been about visiting lost one's and a bit of a whim to visit Carcassonne in SW France, from now on we would head to the mountains including the Alps and the Dolomites.
First we had to get across France from West to East hopefully in one day in 100 + degree heat. We set off after a good breakfast for a day of Autoroutes and dodging city centres, hopefully. It would be just over 300 miles maybe 350 and the French Autoroutes can help to devour distance pretty quickly, the speed limit is about 85. French back roads, which would have been the alternative are only 30 and 50 mph roads and littered with speed cameras; and no amount of studying maps can plan how much 30 or 50 you'll find. It can take all day to get nowhere, which is ok if you have nowhere to go.
The day went well enough besides Grenoble which was a hot steamy pain in the butt. On arrival at some digs the owner Patrick, literally thrust beers in our hands, we must have looked as hot as we felt. So a night in the French Alps felt good and the temps were a little better.



Sue pictured with the Pan outside Patrick's.
We were soon joined by 4 Germans and 2 Dutch all on bikes. The Dutch were on a mile crunching mission and the Germans on their way back from Spain. We eat together outside and all was going well until I found out Germany had lost to Mexico in the world cup. Laugh, I almost wet myself. I remember drinking quite a lot of Vin Rouge and going to bed with a huge green cricket on my head. You can't trust the Germans.
We awoke to a lovely mountain morning in Tournon, the air a little fresher but still warm.



We would strike out for Aosta in Italy today and our first of many mountain passes, this one would have Petit in its name. Time will tell!
More to follow, hope you're enjoying it.
Upt'North.

 

[Upt' North]

To Italy,
After a Patrick breakfast in his lovely restaurant which we never saw the night before, we headed off to the Col du Petit St. Bernard. How high could something be that's Petit.
It was the best days ride so far and once on the climb the road was rewarding, it wasn't too full of hairpins which are no fun on a loaded pan, before you disagree ride an Alpine hairpin strewn road all day and you'll know what I mean. The road was flowing and the views fantastico. Once at the top which was about lunchtime we knew we were going nowhere for an hour or two. We were above the intermittent snow line and there was a lovely Italian restaurant just over the border.



The weather was spoiling us and it was probably about 60 degrees on top at 2188 metres or 7200 feet, Petit?
After a very nice relaxed lunch we pressed on to Aosta in the Italian Alps. We didn't dine alone.



Aosta was an easy ride and the road down was as good as the road up. Great Twisties with views through the bends and just enough hairpins to be tolerable. Bliss, ney, double bliss.
Once at the hotel Charaban it was beer o'clock and we sat looking at the mountains and the Col du Grand St. Bernard. We wouldn't ride that road this time but had previously ridden it about 2 years ago. It's a good road but takes you to Switzerland, the land of annoying clocks and wine sold in egg cups and we off to North East Italy and the Dolomites the next day.



Hope you enjoy. I've just gone all thirsty.
Upt'North.

 

[SupraSabre]

Back in January 1976 to January 1979 my wife and I were stationed in Germany (At Hahn AFB). Those three years I was without a motorcycle! 4:

My dream is to go over there some year and ride for 3 weeks or so and hit many of the places (we visited 13 countries) we saw while there. In fact, our German Landlords from Oberkirn keep begging us to come over and ride with them! (we just can't do it at this time)

Thanks for sharing your "Road Trip". It sounds like you had a great time! :clap2:

 

[Uncle Phil]

As I've said many times, nothing compares to riding in the Alps. Brings back fond memories and a wish to go back on my ST1100!

 

[Upt' North]

As I've said many times, nothing compares to riding in the Alps. Brings back fond memories and a wish to go back on my ST1100!

I've only been back two weeks and I'm missing it already. In fact I missed the Hills as soon as we were back in France.
Wait for the Dolomites Phil. WOW, although I'm sure you've been there?Upt'North.

 

[Upt' North]

Thanks Jim.
Upt'North.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I've only been back two weeks and I'm missing it already. In fact I missed the Hills as soon as we were back in France.
Wait for the Dolomites Phil. WOW, although I'm sure you've been there?Upt'North.

Yes, we based out of Misurina for a few days. What a lovely place!

http://www.unclephil.us/Alps2008Day09.htm

http://www.unclephil.us/Alps2008Day10.htm

 

[Jim C-G]

A great ride, well told and the photos really added to it. Really hoping to do a European bike adventure in the next decade or less.

 

[Upt' North]

Well, the sun came up in Aosta as it probably just about always does and we were on the bike and away at 9 for the 300 + mile Italian Autoroute dash to St.Pauls in the South Tyrol, Italy. Autoroutes are the only way to cover that distance in reasonable time so that was that. It all flowed well until Milano, when it didn't. The Autoroute is mainly tolled but for about 20 miles around Milan it becomes the locals free race track/car park. Now this is when you have to learn that the Italian driver is nothing like your French and filtering is a different ball game. The French understand the bike will get through and do everything they can to help, the Italians refuse to admit defeat and will defend their position at all cost. However they also know when the game is up and then relent and part like the Red Sea. How can an unseen border change people so much? More on Austrian and German drivers to come, they are a piece of work!
Anyway after Milano and then slowly up into the Dolomites everything was rosy and the apartment we'd booked in St.Pauls for the next week was superb. The bike even had its own temperature controlled underground garage. She was spoiled. Although the temperature was controlled at about 120 degrees. The Italians like it hot! Pictures are of views from our digs.



The next week would be a mix of days off the bike, but not many, and day rides to the Italian lakes and the Dolomites proper.
Sunday arrived as it always does and the day off became a short ride down to Lake Garda, I wasn't overly impressed to be honest. It was probably the fact that every motorist in NE Italy had decided to visit at the same time, that and the thousands of little old Italian ladies with really bony elbows that they didn't mind using! Good takeaway pizza slice and cherry ice cream picked us up. Why wouldn't it?


The next ride would be to a an area of the Dolomites recommended by the German's we had met at Patrick's. More on that to follow, but they turned out to be probably the best roads in the world. The best I've ridden anyway.
Thanks for visiting.
Upt'North and Er Indoors.

 

[Upt' North]

I think it was Tuesday and we awoke to 90 degrees and it wasn't going any lower, time to head for the hills.
I say head for the hills, where we were staying must have been about 2000 ft up, so I should correct myself and say mountains, the Dolomites.
The Dolomites are like no other rocks, you just have to stop and look at them and we would follow the route provided by our German buddy at Patrick's. We set off for Ora and the 48 to Vigo di Fassa. Then the 242 to Passa Sella at 2244 metres. In old money, I suppose that must be around 7500 ft. The roads were sublime, sweeper after sweeper and not too busy. You had to anticipate the odd cyclist appearing unannounced or weaving from side to side in exhausted style. Coaches were OK and easy to pass. We stopped at the top for lunch. It was good grub and great views.



After lunch the 242 became the 243, yes you've guessed it, it then became the 244. This returned us to the 48 which we would ride back to base. The ride took us all day and we had a well earned beer once back. The roads had been literally the best ever, if there are better mountain roads I haven't ridden them. Hairpins were acceptable and most bends were open with clear views. I know the weather helps when you're riding mountains, but this was more than that, it was spiritual.



Tomorrow would be a rest day, the bike was in need of a good wipe off and look over having now done about 2500 miles since leaving home. Although have you ever noticed that Pan Europeans are a bit like over excited border collies, you can walk the things all darn day, yet they always want to go a little more.
The next ride would be the Stelvio, all 10000 ft of it with hairpins galore. And we had a score to settle!
Upt'North.

 

[Upt' North]

Firstly the Stelvio Pass is only just over 9000 ft, so I apologise for exaggerating height, still blummin high.
We had rode over the Stelvio a couple of years ago on the way to Slovenia and it stole my back brake for about twenty minutes, I was prepared this time and fluid was only a month old. This time we would travel up from Merano to the summit and come back down the same way. For those that don't know it's reputation, it's the pass to ride if you're ever going through Europe, well this part of Europe anyway. It is horrible on a big bike and this day would make me realise that unless I had to ride it again this would be the last time I would ride it's horrible wet, slippy, accident strewn surface. Like I say it's the must do, so we did. The ride to the top was OK but the hairpins were not kind and the road got damp as we climbed. We only saw the remains of one bike accident on the way up with a couple of Caribiniere with the remains of a KTM.
The top was its usual busy self and we had lunch and coffee. Very nice ham and eggs!



We walked back to the bike and were met with the sound of excited motorcycles and hired German trikes all itching to descend and have some fun. WHAT COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG!?!
We started to descend and the road was horribly slippy and on the second bend there was a lot of what appeared to be bike accident aftermath. Another two bends and the ambulance was scooping a biker off to an afternoon of plaster and sutures. The bike was probably dead, within another two bends one of the trikes had tried to squeeze through a gap between the wall and a passing light truck. Oops. I can't imagine he was going to find a rear quarter for one of them anywhere near. I wonder what his deposit was?
It was still an entertaining ride down and it meant the traffic was all held up behind us so we enjoyed the ride. Nice and quiet, at least for a while.



We would ride the Mendel Pass before starting our Journey home in a couple of days. And this would take us through Austria, Germany and France.
Hope you're enjoying the ride.
Upt'North.

 

[Gerhard]

Looks like a nice trip, I have never had the chance to ride in Europe.

Have fun and stay safe

Gerhard

 

[klaproth]

Wonderful ride report! love the pictures. Amazing views!

 

[Peppermint]

Wonderful ride report, mate! Well done!

Patty

 

[Upt' North]

Well, last ride from our base in St.Pauls before a day off and the start of the ride home.
I didn't even know the Mendel Pass was a pass but Stephanie who owns the apartment said it was a must do and I'd already seen the signs to it, which would be a welcome change from trying to find Italian finger posts with any useful information. It would also be an opportunity to climb out of 100 + heat. I'd cleaned the beast the day before and checked her over, she was good to go.
So we set off for a steady ride to the pass. It was blummin lovely, quiet, lovely flowing bends and not too many idiots. Clear blue skies were the icing on the South Tyrol cake.



It was only just over 4000 ft, then I reminded myself that it was still as high as the highest mountain in the UK.
We pretty much got lost for the rest of the day, drinking coffee and eating ice cream. You can do both if it takes your fancy, can't remember what it's called but they put a mountain of vanilla ice cream in a bowl and pour cold espresso all over it. You shake a bit if you have too many.



A quiet day followed and then a great evening out at the restaurant next door. I plucked up the courage to have the calves liver and er'indoors had the largest and nicest fillet steak ever seen this side of the pond. I think I had too much red wine too.
The next morning saw us set off for Austria and some more of them darn passes. We were on the road for about 9 and it was already over 90 f. Bring on some altitude and more Northern climes, us Northumberland folk aren't made for such daft temperatures.
Upt'North.

 

[Upt' North]

Thanks to all for your kind remarks.
Hope you stick with it.
Upt'North.

 

[Upt' North]

We set off to commence the journey home, but there was no rush so Austria seemed a good option. We headed towards Cortina before turning North to the border and the Grossglockner Pass. Turned out a good choice, nice sweeping road for the most part and got up to 2571 metres, or in old money, 8500 feet. The ST revelled in it although one dipped beam bulb had now given up but as we were about 2800 miles in I let her off. The views were outstanding and it was an enjoyable ride up and a good lunch to boot. Temperatures were much kinder to these two bike kit clad urchins too.



It had snowed two days earlier but the weather was kind to us and did I say the views were oustanding.
After plenty of grub and piccie taking we continued on to Pirzbichl and the Hotel Erbhof Anderlhof, a little gem of a place where we were spoiled rotten, the bike even got a barn. Truly lovely hotel and we can highly recommend it if you're passing. River Perch was served for dinner and was very nice too.



Next morning saw us heading out to the Black Forest, Germany, it would be a long day with some German Autobahns thrown in for good measure, surely there wouldn't be much traffic on a Sunday? Doh, the ride out of Austria was very pleasant and we stayed off the motorway for two reasons, 1st it's obvious and 2nd you have to buy a permit even for just 10 minutes on there. Then you have to spend an eternity trying to get the flipping Vignette glue off. The Autobahns are nothing like the image and the supposed speed limit free super highways are clogged with traffic, roadworks and police. You also cannot filter in Germany unless the traffic is STOPPED! So many miles of car dodging followed with every German driver feeling the urge to be a part time police officer and close every single gap you go for. It was hot too, probably approaching 100 f and the queues went on and on. German bikers just sit there in the lines, they're probably still there. Even when the traffic is stationary they won't go passed. And this more to the point, they also move over on you, aarrrgggghhhhhhh.
Anyway the hotel at Dornstetten turned out a good one and we dined like royals, that's if the royals eat calves cheeks and drink too much red wine.
We awoke to a lovely morning and the best breakfast of the trip. The Black Forest beckoned but we had been warned, DO NOT EXCEED THE SPEED LIMIT. OR ELSE!
We didn't know what the or else was but thought it probably entailed every German driver trying to kill you if you dared to pinch 1 mph. Either that or you'd wake up and find your other dipped beam bulb had gone west. Doh, Aarrrgggghhhhhhh.
More to follow, hang in there.



Upt.

 

[Upt' North]

Yes, two blummin bulbs gone west. Never mind, turn onto mainbeam and wind it right up on the adjuster so as not to blind others and Robert is your father's brother. Wasn't intending to ride at night but it is a legal requirement in much of Europe to ride on headlights 24/7. If anyone has ever tried to change an ST11 headlight bulb at the side of the road they will know why I took this option.
We left our lovely overnight and headed to the Black Forest, sounded like it would be fun, how wrong can you be. The roads were just fine but the Police presence was intense and speed limits almost unrideable, at times on otherwise open flowing roads we were down to a 20 mph limit, 20 mph! And they were enforcing it with vigour.
We still enjoyed the views and bumped into a GS rider from Yorkshire we had met in the Dolomites about a week ago. He was riding with others when we'd first seen him but I think a family tiff meant he preferred to be on his own for a while. We chatted and took in the view.



We went up to Baden Baden, so good they named it twice, I just thought it showed a lack of imagination, although what they lacked in imagination they made up for in the size of their Danish Pastries. Then over to Metz in France for an overnight and a general mooch about. We had stayed here before and there is one hotel with an internal courtyard they let you park in, which is handy in a big city. Gawd, was it busy, probably because we had been loitering around mountains and valleys for the last ten days but it was a bit of an eye opener and unbearably hot. We sat out until late drinking wine with beads of perspiration topping up the wine glass. Turned out a good evening in the finish and the ST was spoiled again! Memories of the horrible speed limits soon drifted away to be replaced with the lovely vistas and look on the bright side, no Germans tried to kill us all day.



We had tried to get back into the Silent Picket and another b and b we know but to no avail, we ended up in a pretty grubby b and b and the flies and heat were a flaming nuisance, sort of fitting really, we would be glad to get back to blighty and normal temps and roast beef.
Well maybe not, UK was also in a heatwave but we got on an early train at the tunnel and were in Elton, Camb' s for an overnight in plenty of time for an afternoon pint and a soak in a tub.
Evening meal was spot on, belly pork if memory serves me right and a bottle of red. Good to be home!
The final ride home was uneventful and steady with no hold ups and weather which was cooling down slightly as we headed back to the borders. 4040 miles completed we pulled on the front and wondered why someone had painted the front lawn beige, it had obviously been dry here too. The Pan looked at me as if to say, "come on, once round the block". Not on her Nellie.
Well, was it a road trip? Don't know really, but it was one hell of a blummin ride.
Thanks for tagging along.
Upt'North and Er'indoors.