Across the land of Chinngis Khan

drrod

Site Supporter
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
1,718
Location
Calgary, Alberta
Bike
'04 ST1300
STOC #
8313
I just got back from a 2 week ride across Mongolia. Eighteenth largest country in the world and the most sparsely populated. We rode about 1300 miles. 40:60 paved to off road
_1.jpg
I went with the tour outfit "Renedian Adventures". This is the 3rd trip I have done with them. Previously I have done Africa and South America and find that they provide very good service without detracting from experiencing the local cultures. ie - it is not a Hilton to Hilton tour.

I flew from Calgary to Beijing and had a day there. Beijing has to be experienced to be believed. 37 million people!! Very crowded but in an orderly way if that makes sense. The city is very clean and when I was there, the air quality was quite good. Nearly all of the 2 stroke scooters and tuk tuks have been changed to electric and that must help a lot. Since I had a day, I took a trip to the Great Wall. Jawdropping level of engineering and construction.
1d (Medium) (Small).JPG
1f (Medium) (Small).JPG



From there is was off to Ulaanbaatar which is the capital city of Mongolia and where 40% of Mongolia's 4 million people live. It is a chaotic scene of new construction amongst the old. Traffic is complete chaos (it is one of the cities from the program "Don't Drive Here") and unlike Beijing, almost a total absence of scooters and bicycles.
2a (Medium) (Small).jpg

The first day was spent getting all the group together (there were 9 of us including my daughter and son in law). In the morning we loaded up in a van and drove about 50 miles out into the country side to visit a HUGE statue of Chinggis Khan (Gengis Khan to us). This is a massive structure some 150+ feet high, made out of 250 tons of stainless steel. (those are people standing along the top of the horses neck). It was erected by private money, on the site where he supposedly found the "golden whip".
2c (Medium) (Small).jpg



2d (Small).jpg

That afternoon we picked up our bikes and got ready to start the ride the next day. I rode an older BMW 800GS that had been dropped and dragged on all sides but ran great. I figured I couldn't do much more damage to it. All the bikes were what you would consider "used"!
3 (Medium) (Small).JPG

We survived the traffic and got out of town. My daughter and I were OK in the traffic because we have ridden in many of the large European cities like Madrid, Rome, Prague but the rest of the group were a little intimidated but we all made it fine by following our Mongolian guide who ran interference for us. The thing about riding in Mongolia is that there are very few paved roads and virtually no gravel roads as we know them. This is what a normal road is like. You just drive off the hiway, down into what ditch there is, and strike off on mainly 2 track dirt trails.
3a (Medium) (Small).JPG
This road led us to a National Park where the only true wild horses in the world exist. What we know as "wild" horses are really just feral but these are genetically distinct. They were almost extinct but were brought back by efforts of many around the world and were released back into this park where they are doing quite well.
3d (Medium) (Small).JPG
We were lucky to see them as they are quite shy and have a vast expanse of land to hide in. This picture was taken with a 30X zoom.
We ended the first day at a ger camp. They are called ger's (pronounce gear) not yurts. Yurts are seen more in the western regions and Kazakstan.
3f1 (Medium) (Small).JPG
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
drrod

drrod

Site Supporter
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
1,718
Location
Calgary, Alberta
Bike
'04 ST1300
STOC #
8313
The next day we got up and headed out across the land. And I do mean across the land. There are NO roads as we know them. Just trails across the rough landscape that resembles the Arizona desert.
4c (Medium) (Small).JPG

We ended the day at a hotsprings at a ger camp where we spent two nights.4e (Medium) (Small).JPG
We did a half day loop from here which was spectacular. Pictures do not do the justice to the vast expanse of open land.
5b (Medium) (Small).JPG

The next day I had a bit of a mishap. I needed a new rear tire on the bike. I don't know why it wasn't done before we started but that is kinda the way things are done there. Not much preventative maintenance. Repair as needed.
22a (Medium) (Small).jpg

About a half mile from the start the trail was on a steep sidehill with a tree (only one for miles) beside it. A root ran diagonally down and across the trail. At about the same time as I hit the root, the rear tire went flat. The bike was on its side in an instant with my ankle under it. Bruised but not broken but I had a pretty good limp for the next week. Oh well. Onward. From now until the last 3 days of the trip, we overnighted in a mobile tent camp that followed us. Along with the tent crew came a chef who made us wonderful meals every day. Where he got the makings is beyond me but it was delicious. A lot of meat, potatoes, peppers, onions, cabbage but not many other vegetables.
22c (Medium) (Small).JPG
22d2a (Medium) (Small).jpg
22e5 (Medium) (Small).JPG

23a1 (Medium) (Small).jpg
23a2 (Medium) (Small).jpg

One night a group of musicians from a village came to perform for us. It took them almost 2 hours to get to us over some very rough roads.. They were amazing.
23a3 (Medium) (Small).JPG

We kept going in a mainly westerly direction. Sometimes on a paved road but mostly on 2 track trails across vast open basin between the mountain ranges. Here are several pictures taken that will hopefully show what an amazing place and people they are.
Many small towns are connected only by the 2 track trails and have no paved streets.
22b (Medium) (Small).jpg
23c (Medium) (Small).jpg
23d (Medium) (Small).jpg
23i (Medium) (1) (Small).jpg
23j (Medium) (Small).jpg
23k (Medium) (1) (Small).jpg
23l (Medium) (Small).jpg

My daughter getting her baptism in water crossings.
23n (Medium) (Small).jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
drrod

drrod

Site Supporter
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
1,718
Location
Calgary, Alberta
Bike
'04 ST1300
STOC #
8313
Continuing on.......



Mongolia has some 70 million grazing animals. Goats, sheep, cattle, yaks, horses. We saw may herds of them all and I never once saw a fence separating one area from another. How they keep them from getting all mixed up is beyond me but they seem to manage. Some horses had brands but I could not discern any identifying things on any of the other animals. These herds were everywhere and many along the roads. They would just randomly cross the road without any indication that we were there, so you waited your turn. Interesting in that I did not see one herding dog. It was all done on foot, horseback, or the ubiquitous Chinese single cylinder motorbike.

25b (Medium) (Small).JPG
25c (Medium) (Small).JPG



P1020733 (Small).JPG
20190926_145001 (Medium) (Small).jpg
Here we were, all decked out in full ATTGATT, riding dual sport bikes and sometimes tentatively crossing sandy, water, etc. only to have a local, many times 2or 3 up, casually do the same with nary a concern. A bit humbling at times.

25h (Medium) (Small).jpg
28a (Medium) (Small).JPG

The last 3 nights of the trip we stayed in a ger camp and went to the Eagle Festival where the hunters who use Golden Eagles to hunt (like falcons) gather to show off their birds. Fascinating. It is a 2 day festival and has a bazaar attached to it and many competitions.

34 (Medium) (Small).JPG

35 (Medium) (Small).JPG

I even got to hold the 3X champions eagle!!!
Here is my daughter holding it.
20191005_142655 (Medium) (Small).jpg

End of the day, and the end of the trip. If you get a chance, ride in Mongolia. It is like nothing you have done before!!!
47 (Medium) (Small).JPG
48 (Medium) (Small).jpg

I finished off by spending another day in Beijing and visiting the Forbidden City and Tianamen Square.
P1030282 (Medium) (Small).JPG
P1030276 (Medium) (Small).JPG
P1030317 (Medium) (Small).JPG
P1030318 (Medium) (Small).JPG
 
Last edited:

tjhiggin

R.I.P. - 2022/06/11
Rest In Peace
Joined
Jul 6, 2016
Messages
380
Location
North Alabama
Bike
2004 ST1300A
Thanks so much for this! As we say in the English car world, I'm British Racing Green with envy. It's my dream trip. When I retire in a few years is when I plan to go. I've been fascinated with Mongolia for years. Last spring I drove 6 hours to see a Mongolian art exhibit in Mobile, AL.

IMG_20190330_105251.jpg
 
OP
OP
drrod

drrod

Site Supporter
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
1,718
Location
Calgary, Alberta
Bike
'04 ST1300
STOC #
8313
Thanks so much for this! As we say in the English car world, I'm British Racing Green with envy. It's my dream trip. When I retire in a few years is when I plan to go. I've been fascinated with Mongolia for years. Last spring I drove 6 hours to see a Mongolian art exhibit in Mobile, AL
It is a place I had always wanted to see as well. Decided I had better do it whilst I still can.
There is a documentary type movie called the Eagle Huntress that is good (in a Hallmark kind of way). It is a true story (with some editorial freedoms thrown in) about the first woman who competed at the Eagle festival. She was only about 13 at the time. This year I saw her sister place 4th. A neat thing about the movie is the scenery of Mongolia. It used to be available on Netflix but I think you need to get it from Amazon now.
 
Top Bottom