I Go Far to see Igofar!

Shuey

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Part One
4-10 October, 2022

After three years of very little riding and scratching my riding itch online on this forum in order to stay somewhat sane . . . the window of opportunity finally opened up for me to ride west! I intended to head out towards the end of Sept, but delayed to see if Hurricane Ian might fool predictions and head further west over to my house. It didn't and so I departed on 4 October. The starting idea for my ride was to go to AZ and meet Igofar, whose inputs and testimonials I'd been reading for years. I reached him on his "White Courtesy Phone" and yes, he was going to be in town and available. The second piece of the plan was to ride a great road George introduced me (and others) to in . . . 2010 (I think) - US 191 (formerly US 666). With those two ideas in mind, I added visiting some family and friends and some sights to see.

So, all my trips start . . . in my garage.
Nicevile, FL; Garage 17Oct22.jpg

For those who want to follow along, here's my route, 4,000 + miles of smiles:West Trip 4-17Oct'22.png

First goal, as almost always, was to get out of Florida, so it was a quick I-10 ride over to Mobile then I headed NE. First night spent in Pine Bluff, AR. As I grew up I developed a fondness and respect for one of two great art forms America has given to the world . . . The American Western movie! As you'll read/see references to our western history and the movies that recount (accurately and inaccurately) the stories will abound.

Spent the second night in Woodward, OK, where I've been several times before, to see if one of my favorite statues was still there. It was.
Woodward, OK; %22Binding Contract%22.jpg
Two men, with a handshake, make a deal based solely on their word being their bond. It harkens back to the days where individual responsibility ruled; sadly disappearing these days I'm afraid. Apropo that the statue sits in front of a bank.

From there I rode up through Dodge City, Kansas, where I had to smile when I turned left on Wyatt Earp Blvd. I know there are quite a few of you out there who do NOT like riding in Kansas, well . . . I do. I love the vistas of the great plains and have to admire the lonesome cowboy riding his 1 HP stead for days to cover the ground passing under my wheels in an hour or two. Lots of miles, no rest stops or refreshments but worth it for the beauty of the land, sunrises and sunsets.

Next stop was Denver, CO., where I visited with relatives for several days, eat good and spent some time touring the Denver Art Museum, a wonderful facility. Took a nail in my front tire riding through town and had it replaced at Coyote Motorsports in Denver, a shop I've been to before. More about that later. Visiting done, I headed south to get into the NM and AZ mountains and US 191.

Left Denver with the intent of making some time on I-25 and overnighting in Socorro, NM. On the way, I was surprised by my first ride in a hail storm! A little rain at first which became a storm of hail pellets a little bit bigger than peas. Bounced right off my suit and helmet (think rain on a tin roof), but really stung the back of my hands through my gloves! The pellets were all over the road and I was planing on finding a place to pull over but ran out of it after only about 10 minutes. I never felt any sensations like the road was getting icy or anything, but I am glad the pellets didn't get any larger. When I pulled in to Socorro to find a hotel it was only about 4:30pm. I was heading west from there so did some quick research and fund there were motels in Datil, NM, and as there was plenty of light left, continued on. Two lanes, no traffic . . . nearly heaven as I headed into the sun. Arrived in Datil and . . . the motels were dark, no cars and obviously not open for business. Hmmmm, already on my aux fuel tank and starting to feel a bit peckish . . . do I head back to Socorro (about an hour) or continue on to Reserve, NM, and hope for the best? No brainer, onward to Reserve.

Beautiful ride on NM 12 to Reserve, arriving in the dark. My fuel gauge was flashing and indicating I still had 15 miles or so left before empty. Two stores with gas pumps, the first one - closed for the night. The second one - only one pump and OPEN! No pay at the pump, so went in to arrange getting some gas. The woman at the counter asked if she could trust me not to drive away, with a serious evaluating look, to which I replied "absolutely" and she turned the pump on. When I came back in to pay she noted there weren't any restaurants in town and all the motels had been completely booked for the past several days. I passed a nice looking motel on the edge of town, so bought some microwaveable food and rode back to it. The Mountaineer Inn is brand new; the owners were celebrating one year since they opened and they were nearly empty, no problem getting a room. They had been booked up through the previous night for hunting season. Life is good. It was a wonderful room with sticky buns and some other food in the room for no extra charge.

10Oct22 - the real fun begins. I departed Reserve, NM, and headed NE to Alpine, AZ, for breakfast. The town is aptly named as I was taking deeper breaths since the elevation exceeded 8,000 feet. Had a great breakfast then headed south on US 191. It wasn't long before I was above 9,000 feet and descending down a road as fun as I remembered from my past two runs.
South of Alpine, AZ; US 191 Switchback.jpg

It's all paved with gravel shoulders . . . some of the time. The road surface varied with surface changes marked with signage indicating a code for what was used and when it was laid down. Saw a few deer on tight blind turns just standing on the side of the road, I expect waiting to see what the approaching noise was. When encountered, all were within arms reach. Only one decided to cross in front of me and it wasn't a problem while the others just watched me slowly roll by.

For several hours, after departing Alpine, I never saw another vehicle. Magnificent views which I stopped occasionally to admire whenever I needed to rest my cheeks from the strain of mile after mile of twisting road and ear-to-ear smiles!

South of Alpine, AZ; Shuey & Vista.jpg

US 191 as it winds its way down to Morenci, AZ.
Morenci, AZ; US 191 GPS Map.jpg


I took a nice break to enjoy the Morenci Copper Mine, North America's largest. It has grown exponentially since I last saw it 8 years ago.
The little Tonka like truck down below isn't . . . it's HUGE!
Morenci, AZ; View of Copper Mine.jpg

Morenci, AZ; Copper Mine Info Sign.jpg

Here's a tire . . . I wish I could have had someone take a picture of me next to it for perspective.

Morenci, AZ; Mine Truck Tire.jpg

After this educational stop, I continued south on US 191 heading towards Tucson and Oro Valley. Turned west on I-10 into Tucson then up to Oro Valley (home of Igofar, AKA Larry) and checked into my motel. End of the day, 10Oct22.
 

SupraSabre

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Excellent!

Sounds like a fun ride!

The one time I had planned on riding up US191 from Safford, was for George's 666 on 777 (7/7/07), but they had a fire going on, so Dana Teal and I rode into New Mexico (US180) and went north from there to Alpine. Then Alpine had a parade so all the roads were blocked off. We got to George's RTE, a few minutes before Lunch was called!
 

SarniaON

Brian Dunning
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Pleased to finally meet you meet you at a recent 2022 STOC event and really enjoying reading about your ride to meet Igofar. Thanks for posting this!
 
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Shuey

Shuey

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Part Two
11-12 October, 2022

About 9am or so I rode over to meet and visit with Larry. Although he's not a Yamaha we spent most of the day in his garage doing some basic maintenance, adjusting and examining the bike. Let me get all the gushing out of the way first. Larry is a warm hearted, knowledgeable and generous person who I am proud to now call friend. He basically gave me three days of undivided attention, education and guidance. I had a GREAT time and recommend to all, if you're traveling anywhere near Oro Valley, you'll be missing out if you don't at least arrange a social visit over a meal somewhere.

OK, up front, know that I don't do much in the way of maintenance of my steads. I provide for its basic needs and insure others more qualified attend to what's needed. I learned a lot from Larry. So, what did we do? Well, first, there's a 'get acquainted' preamble . . . magic tricks. Larry's pretty good with cards and slight of hand. He says it keeps his hands and fingers nimble. Great fun!

Ahh, the bike. First up, does the bike vibrate? Sure, all three of my ST1300s and both FJRs do a little. He cleaned the 'bobbins' or 'spools' on the front wheel as that might help with that. Not really sure what they do, but they're supposed to be loose and able to freely rotate. (Anyone have more info on what they do, let me know please.)
Larry Burris cleans brake rotor spools.jpg

Larry coached me through some minor adjustments to the handlebar ergonomics (adjusted the clutch and brake lever) and made some changes to the preload. The FJR1300ES has lots of suspension adjustments. We only adjusted the electronic preload to Level 3.

Next up, let's flush the clutch just for fun, although I just had it done 3 months prior. Clutch first. Fluid in the reservoir looks good, but what came out of the line didn't. Seems like when last serviced, it wasn't flushed! (When I get home . . . Lucy? You got some 'splaning to do!)

Larry Burris emptied clutch resevoir.jpg

Flush and bleed the brakes next, which I've never done myself. Known by everyone else on this site who reads this and does their own maintenance, using a one way valve in the line prevents air from running back up into the lines - and makes this job pretty easy. I'm now confident I can do this myself in the future.
Larry Burris Bleed System.jpg

Oil filter removal? I do usually change my own oil and use a technique of putting a piece of tin foil across the exhaust pipe and under the filter to have the last bit of oil go into the pan when I remove the filter. Larry fabricated a tool that just fits under the filter and keep oil from going anywhere except where you want it. I'm looking for the right size plastic bottle to make one for myself. Easy breezy.
Larry Burris oil filter removal scoop.jpg

Next, we took a good look at the front wheel. On examination Larry noted there was a lot of weights on it. In fact, there were 4 g of weights stuck on top of another 4 g of weights stuck on the wheel rim, along with one or two on the opposite side. Larry mentioned he'd never seen double stacked weights before. We decided to pull the wheel, remove all weights and have it rebalanced at a local dealer. When rebalanced, the wheel needed less than half as much weight as was placed on in Denver. Larry reinstalled the wheel noting there was some scoring on the axle and a lot of grease. Cleaned it up and applied anti-seize then installed it.

On remounting the wheel Larry pointed out that one of the pinch bolts was rounded out. (On arriving home, I ordered replacement bolts from Ayers.)
Larry Burris points out damaged pinch bolt.jpg

OK, maintenance done. I've grouped them all together in this report, although the front wheel work was actually done the 3rd day while everything else was done on the first day. If anything I described sounds screwy, it's probably my faulty memory and not anything the Larry actually did.

So, when we were done "maintaining" the first day, we went for a "little" ride, just down the road! Larry's screen name is well chosen; 40 minutes to an hour later we arrived at a memorial for "King of the Cowboys" movie star Tom Mix. (It would be another 15 years before Roy Rogers would claim the title.) His career mostly behind him, he was driving 80 mph in his fancy Cord and for an unknown reason, crashed through the well marked road construction barriers and into a wash . . . dying. I can remember watching some of his b/w films on TV when very young. His horse "Tony" was also famous at the time and was noted to nudge Tom sometimes closer and sometimes away from is love interest at the end of most of his movies.
Tom Mix Memorial, Larry Burris and I.jpg
So . . . who's that handsome guy in the picture you ask? That's Larry. :thumb:

Tom Mix Memorial and I.jpg


%22Tom Mix Wash%22 where he crashed.jpg


The next day we road up to the top of Mt Lemmon. I enjoyed every minute of it. Larry is a great riding companion!
Mt Lemmon, Shuey and Larry.jpg

On the way up to and back from Mt Lemmon (note, it's spelled correctly as it was named after someone). It's a beautiful ride with lots of HooDoos, magnificent balancing rocks, to see.
Mt Lemmon, HooDoos.jpg

Mt Lemmon, two bikes & HooDoos.jpg

Mt Lemmon, HooDoos and distant road.jpg



That takes care of 11 and 12 Oct, 2022.

Part 3 . . . tomorrow!

Shuey
 

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Andrew Shadow

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He cleaned the 'bobbins' or 'spools' on the front wheel as that might help with that. Not really sure what they do, but they're supposed to be loose and able to freely rotate. (Anyone have more info on what they do, let me know please.)
If you look at your brake discs you will see two different types of metal on the brake disc. The inner disc diameter that is inside the circumference of those bobbins is the mounting surface, and it is bolted solidly to the wheel. The outer disc diameter that is outside the circumference of these bobbins is the friction surface that the brake pads rub against when you apply the brakes.
These are two separate discs that are not solidly attached to each other. They are linked to each other by the small steel bobbins at the interface between the two.

The outer friction surface can move laterally, i.e. parallel to the axle, a small amount independently of the inner mounting disc. It moves on these bobbins. This is done to allow it to float around a little to absorb small movements of the disc due to wear and warpage so that these variations are not felt as a pulsation in the brake lever when the brakes are applied.

If you have a warped front brake rotor on your car, the brake pedal pulsates when you apply the brakes hard. The same thing happens on a motorcycle, except that you feel it in the brake lever through your hand. Allowing the friction disc the ability to move independently of the mounting surface allows it and the caliper to more easily move together. This reduces the intensity of these pulsations, or eliminates them if they are minor, much in the same way that floating brake calipers do. It also provides better braking, reduced heat, and better brake pad wear all because the brake pads and the friction surface are in greater contact with each other more of the time than with a fixed disc.
 
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Thanks for the write up and great pictures. It's also great to put a face with the name Igofar. He's such a credit to this forum; I hope to meet him someday too.
 

docw1

Bill Rankin
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Your experience with Larry mirrors mine. A great guy and an invaluable resource.
 
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Ah ha! So, that's the FJR I heard was coming! I was thrilled to return the favor in a small way when Larry contacted me for copies of the service manual pages for reference! I, for a moment only, had an inkling of being the FJR whisperer east of the Mississippi...

Then I woke up...:rofl1:

Still need to combine a tech day out this way as a means to get Larry to come for the much talked about visit here...
 
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Shuey

Shuey

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Ah ha! So, that's the FJR I heard was coming! I was thrilled to return the favor in a small way when Larry contacted me for copies of the service manual pages for reference! I, for a moment only, had an inkling of being the FJR whisperer east of the Mississippi...
Then I woke up...:rofl1:
Well, you'd be closer than Larry and . . . have a larger range of FJR specific expertise! I benefited greatly from your assistance. Thank you.
Shuey
 
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Shuey

Shuey

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It also provides better braking, reduced heat, and better brake pad wear all because the brake pads and the friction surface are in greater contact with each other more of the time than with a fixed disc.
Thank you for the detailed response Andrew, it's . . . very much appreciated! I'm sure others will like it also.
Shuey
 
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Shuey

Shuey

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Part 3 . . . the final leg of the journey . . . comes tomorrow (probably).
Shuey
 

Andrew Shadow

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Thank you for the detailed response Andrew, it's . . . very much appreciated! I'm sure others will like it also.
Shuey
Hopefully it made sense.

I was surprised that you didn't mention the security system in Larry's garage- snakes! It seems that he introduces everyone to them.

Nice report, well written, and great photos.
 
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Shuey

Shuey

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Hopefully it made sense.
I was surprised that you didn't mention the security system in Larry's garage- snakes! It seems that he introduces everyone to them.
Nice report, well written, and great photos.
Andrew,
Your explanation made great sense. I couldn't imagine the engineers would design in the bobbins/spools and extra production expense just for the esthetics. I forgot about Larry's security system . . . thanks for the reminder! Yep, they were discussed just before the magic show started! I suspect the rattlers he lets loose at night in the garage are hungry also. :eek1:
Shuey
 
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Shuey

Shuey

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Part Three
13-17 October, 2022

Thursday, 13Oct, Larry and I spent the morning taking care of my front wheel issues described earlier. The stacked weights in particular bothered Larry and just had to be taken care of. That finished up the bike work. Although Larry doesn't specialize in FJRs, we got a lot done. The immediate result was a dramatic reduction (near disappearance) of vibration while riding! Three ST1300s and I'm on my 2nd FJR and I thought all bikes were supposed to vibrate and shake the side-view mirrors. Not anymore. Thank you Larry!

Larry sent me this pic that best sums up why he does it . . .
Larry.png

All-in-all, Larry is just a great guy . . . warm hearted and giving, eager to give of his time to improve the world around him. Here's some examples, not bike related. While at the Tom Mix memorial, he noted someone had spray painted graffiti on the back side of one of the columns and said he might just have to come back out and clean that off. Larry also goes riding (think trail bike) out into the wilds to police up ammunition brass that people leave at various locations, just because it's bad for the environment. He also carries buckets and snake wrangling equipment to relocate snakes he finds in public areas (well, that's not completely altruistic as his security force does need replenishment from time to time ;)).

I finished out Thursday having lunch with a cousin who lives in Tucson and finished the day with a tasty farewell dinner at a great Mexican place with Larry and his wonderful wife Christy. She is just as nice as he is. I now call them both . . . friends!

Friday, 14 Oct, so long Oro Valley and heading east at a leisurely pace back to Niceville.

First stop was in Tombstone, AZ, for breakfast. Lots of history here and, yes . . . it's a tourist oriented town, but so what. I like it.
Tombstone, AZ; Shuey at OK Cafe.jpg

Tombstone, AZ; John Wayne and I, closer.jpg

If you happen to visit Tombstone in the future, they were installing a new statue at the town square. I'll be interested in what it is when I visit again.
Tombstone, AZ; New statue installation.jpg

During my discussions with Larry, I let him know I found the sagas of the old west fascinating which led to our ride out to the Tom Mix Memorial. He also mentioned that east of Tucson was the grave of Johnny Ringo "Johnny Ringo, was an American Old West outlaw loosely associated with the Cochise County Cowboys in frontier boomtown Tombstone, Arizona Territory. He took part in the Mason County War in Texas during which he committed his first murder." (Wikipedia) For those who have watched the movie "Tombstone", Ringo intends to meet and kill Wyatt Earp outside of town, but Doc Holliday gets there early and bests him instead. Ahhh, not so (maybe). His death was ruled a suicide, but some claimed he was murdered. The facts support suicide. His grave is a state historical site on private land about 8 miles down a dirt/gravel road.
Dragoon, AZ; Entrance to Ringo Grave.jpg
Surrounded by fencing marked "Private Property" there is this fenced access back to the gravesite.

Dragoon, AZ; John Ringo Grave.jpg

Dragoon, AZ; John Ringo Plaque.jpg

If you want to know more . . . https://www.oldwest.org/johnny-ringo/
If you want to visit . . .
Dragoon, AZ; GPS Johnny Ringo Location.jpg


On my way out, heading up to I-10, I took a turn that dead ended at this National Monument. There are many HooDoos here also, but sorry, no new pics.
Wilcox, AZ; Chiricahua Nat. Monument (Park).jpg

Nice ride back up to I-10 then eastward bound. First night was spent in Van Horn, TX. Van Horn figured prominently in my first IBA ride as it was 1,519 miles from Jacksonville Beach, FL, and my first stop as I head coast-to-coast back in 2008. I made it in less (just barely) than 24 hours. The town has grown a lot since then. The next day was a pleasant ride along I-10, enjoying the scenery and . . . still in Texas . . . I pulled in for the night in Columbus, TX.

Another easy day on Sunday riding I-10 with a stop in Beaumont, TX, to get a picture of the World's Largest Working Fireplug. It used to be the World's Largest Fireplug until a bigger one was built in Columbia, SC, but . . . it's not functional. :rolleyes:
Beaumont, TX; Largest Working Fire Plug and I.jpg
Beaumont was deserted on Sunday morning and I didn't see a single moving vehicle between getting off and back on I-10. Really nice!
I texted a copy of the picture to Larry and his reply was that "I'd run like hell before the world's largest dog . . . " :rofl1:

Then it was back on I-10, through Louisiana and although I could easily make it home, I stopped early for the night in Gulfport, MS, as I wanted to visit "an old friend" the next morning.

So, I had a nice breakfast then made the short ride to Ocean Springs, MS, to visit my old friend "Crooked Feather."
Ocean Springs, MS; Replacment Whispering Giant and I.jpg
Peter Wolf Toth, a Hungarian born American artist realized his calling at age 24 to celebrate the American Indian and set a goal to carve, for free, giant indian statues in all 50 states as well as one in Canada. He achieved his goal and some states have more than one. Collectively, they are known as "The Trail of the Whispering Giants." Unfortunately the one for MS, located in Ocean Springs, was destroyed by termites and weather. The town replaced it with one produced by a local artist in 1999, in Peter's style, as they thought he had died. He's very much alive and working in Ocean City, FL, and thinks the replacement is a nice one that fits in well with the rest of his creations. There are over 70 "Giants" and I visited them all except the one in Hawaii, winning the Team Strange 2015 Grand Tour. My favorite is the one in Colquitt, GA. More info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trail_of_the_Whispering_Giants

Well, that's the end of this adventure. It's been awhile since I produced a trip report. As you've probably noticed, the "Verbose" key on my computer is stuck in the open position. I keep meaning to get it fixed . . . maybe one of these days.

Trip total: 4,743 miles of smiles
For those that patiently read through this . . . thank you for sharing my adventure!
Shuey
 

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