Adjusting rear shock preload to "standard" setting

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Guys: The owners manual says to turn the knob fully anticlockwise then clockwise by 7 clicks. I tried this and it seems to "bottom out" at the 7th click. I didn't force it but is this normal, does it need considerably more force to turn it clockwise after the 7th click?
 

dduelin

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Yes it needs more force by 7 clicks especially if there is no resistance for the first few. Bikes with some miles may have no resistance 12 clicks or more. No resistance = no preload is being added so these turns are doing nothing.
 

Silver Bullet

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If you turned all the way out or counter clockwise and went in 7 clickes ,sounds like your just getting into the tention of the spring ! Should be a lot more left and you will feel increased presure on the knob as you turn it clockwise ! I sure some more members can chime in but I think I am correct ! Hope this helps ,good luck !

MIKE
 
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Check out some of the pre-load adjuster fluid threads. Most adjusters don't have fluid in them for whatever reason. You can remove the fitting, top them off, and have adjustment from click number 1.
hope this helps.
 
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I ride my ST1300 with maximum preload (wound all the way in) when fully loaded and I can tell you that those last ten turns or so are damned hard. You need a really firm grip and maybe change hands before you wrist seizes up. Or maybe that's just my old age!
 
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Unfortunately I didn't read the threads on preload fluid, and cranked the handle in so far that fluid started running down the shock absorber. I don't sem to be able to find anything on anyone else doing that, so am not sure what the ramifications are. Have I really messed things up now?
Before I do anything else I thought I would ask first this time.
Can anyone offer advice please?
Garry
 
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You haven't messed anything up other than confirming that your preload adjuster line has a leak somewhere that you will need to fix. As stated above, you can remove the line from the shock, back out the adjuster screw, apply compressed air to the line to return the internal piston to the full volume position, then refill the adjuster and line, reattach at the shock, use a turn or two to bleed any trapped air and you're done. I needed a new hose, which is not available separately, so I went to a local aircraft fitting place to get a replacement. So far, so good. Also, I refilled with 90w gear oil. Thick and less likely to leak.
Tim Shevlin Anaheim,CA #1183
 
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You haven't messed anything up other than confirming that your preload adjuster line has a leak somewhere that you will need to fix. As stated above, you can remove the line from the shock, back out the adjuster screw, apply compressed air to the line to return the internal piston to the full volume position, then refill the adjuster and line, reattach at the shock, use a turn or two to bleed any trapped air and you're done. I needed a new hose, which is not available separately, so I went to a local aircraft fitting place to get a replacement. So far, so good. Also, I refilled with 90w gear oil. Thick and less likely to leak.
Tim Shevlin Anaheim,CA #1183
Thanks Tim, that is a potential relief.
I'll strip it out and try and find the source of the leak, and then if the hose is OK, follow your advice with refilling the adjuster.
Garry
 

Reginald

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Before removing the line be sure to map how the line is routed through the bike frame and other hoses or cables. I use photos. If you remove the rear shock be sure to check out threads describing short cuts to ease the procedure. The manual has you removing a lot of pieces you don't need to remove.
 
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When you take the knob off be aware there is a ball and tiny spring that wants to sproing in there.
The part that makes the clicky click.
 
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Sorry it's taken a while to update. It turned out that the seals in the shock were worn, so they were replaced, and the preload topped up with oil. All now seems to work as it should. Thanks for the advice.
Garry
 
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Check out some of the pre-load adjuster fluid threads. Most adjusters don't have fluid in them for whatever reason. You can remove the fitting, top them off, and have adjustment from click number 1.
hope this helps.
After so much trouble getting the technique for putting the bike on its center stand, I watched your and a few other videos. It sure seems I have to get my bike over a bigger hump. The preload knob had tension because it couldn't be screwed in any further? On what you suggested, I backed out the preload knob. The tension I felt was gone in the first half turn. I turned it 17 clicks ccw until it was at the other end of the travel. Would this condition have anything to do with the bike being a bit more difficult to get on the CS? After dumping the bike and feeling like I'm wrestling this thing onto the stand, I'm hoping for something to make a little more sense other than some shrink saying '-Paul, you have clssic CSPD (center stand phobia disorder ;>), or I need to get back to the gym.
 

Kevcules

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I don't think the pre-load adjuster position makes any difference on attempting to put the bike on the center stand. It sounds like your adjuster assembly is low on fluid. You can disassemble the assembly and top off the fluid level which will give you resistance on the first couple of turns.
The key to putting the bike on the stand is to hold the handle firmly and pretend like your stepping your foot through the floor. Duelin has a great video on here showing how easy it is. When I first got my bike, I could not for the life of me get it on the center stand. Then I watched the video....
 

Shawn K

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If you lost tension after backing it out a half turn, then your preload adjuster was probably completely dry of fluid. Do a search on how to refill that, and then set your preload at the appropriate sag level.

For what it's worth, "proper" suspension sag is generally considered to be approximately 30% of suspension travel (i.e. when you sit on the bike, the suspension should be compressed about 30% of its travel). Given that the 1300 has a rear suspension travel of 4.5 inches, then you should have approximately 1.5" of travel used up when seated on the bike in your full riding gear. (Yes, I know that 1.5" is actually 33% of 4.5", but I'm going for easy math here.)

On my ST1300, compressing the rear suspension 1.5" (measured at the rear axle to a point on the bike directly vertical) makes it so that there's exactly 12.25" of clearance from the ground to the bottom tip of my rear fender. This is the reference that I use when I'm adjusting my rear preload for various load conditions - always get that rear fender 12.25" off the ground.

Once the rear preload is set correctly (and, as a result, the ride height is where it should be), you'll be surprised how easy the ST is to get up on the centerstand.

In addition to proper ride height, proper technique is important to make getting up on the centerstand possible. You should not be "lifting" the bike at all. You should be letting your body weight do the work.
 
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Shawn K

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I don't think the pre-load adjuster position makes any difference on attempting to put the bike on the center stand.
It does, in the sense that a properly maintained and properly utilized preload adjuster has everything to do with the ride height of the motorcycle, which has everything to do with how easy it is to get up onto the centerstand.
 
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Well then I'll add the oil and keep trying to get this technique for the stand. Larry's video made it look so darned easy, that it frustrates the crap out of me I'm struggling with this. Thanks for the reply and video.
 

Kevcules

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It does, in the sense that a properly maintained and properly utilized preload adjuster has everything to do with the ride height of the motorcycle, which has everything to do with how easy it is to get up onto the centerstand.
I'll try this theory next season. I've had my preload adjusted differently in the past to see if the bike handled any different. I'm not a big guy but getting it on the center stand is fairly easy once I saw and used the technique. I haven't noticed it any easier no matter where the preload was set.
 

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After so much trouble getting the technique for putting the bike on its center stand, I watched your and a few other videos. It sure seems I have to get my bike over a bigger hump.
Roll your rear wheel onto a 1/2" thick piece of wood... it will be MUCH easier to get it onto the centerstand.
 

ST Gui

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Shawn K said:
You should not be "lifting" the bike at all. You should be letting your body weight do the work.
That seems a bit optimistic to me. When I was at 225lbs using just my body weight alone wasn't getting even close to putting near 800lbs of bike on the center stand. That's with 42lbs front and rear. That's with 2 bars on the gauge and factory tires. Now I'm going to use a board for the rear wheel. I'd rather trick it than fight it.
 
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