Rear Wheel Bearing Installation - Problem encountered

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I've only done the flange bearings so I'm not much help... My first thought is once you ride it around the block the tightness will loosen a bit.

I hate to do it but I'm going to have to disagree with Mellow on this one. The squealing/grating sound would be metal rubbing metal...and if everything was installed correctly, you shouldn't be getting that. It sounds like either a bearing isn't fully seated, causing the race to rub where it shouldn't; or there is an offset to one of the bearings, and its in backwards.

Hopefully someone with a manual...or has done the ST1300 bearings can weigh in on this. I would NOT try riding it though, because you could end up causing more damage to something besides the bearings.

Jim

Jim I agree with you. One of the bearings must have an offset inner race to accomadate the spacer being longer than the distance between the bearings in the hub. If they do and are installed backwards, they ain't gona like it!!!

The bearings fur sur are supposed to be seated against the flanges AND the collar is "correct length" or it would'a caused a problem with initial install. I've never seen a bearing with an "offset" tho, so...

I'm at a loss.

BYRON!!??

I have the OEM version of that bearing 91052-MAE-004 (6204UU) and I measured the outside of it. There's no taper to it at all, it's right at 67mm. There is a part number marked in the inner race which I assume is the 'mark' that is talked about in the manual.

I'm sticking to my theory it's just the inner sleeves and all touching.. but, I'll admit if I'm wrong..

jfheath said:

The last few taps resulted in both bearings tightening up - ie they wouldn't move easily. I guessed that the long spacer was in tight contact with both inner shells. They would turn if I applied pressure to both bearings simultaneously.

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Which bearings? The 6905's?

Also, I'd check and make sure you are inserting the correct bearings. The left side wheel bearing is a 6204 UU, the right side wheel bearing is 20x47x20.6, and the two flange bearings are 6905's.

In your post above you mentioned bearing 6204.11?

After looking at the shop manuel, there's no mystery to the installation. The bearings have no offset and the distance collar should be the same length as the shoulders of the hub. John, if the distance collar is longer than the shoulder distance, that's got to be your problem. Something is between the 6204UU inner race and collar, either a piece of trash or a metal burr from the removal, or some such. Please let us know what you find.

When you installed the wheel did you have the brakes installed. The thin metal slider that the front tab on the pads likes to shift and rub on the rotor that would make a squealing sound. Just a thought.

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sennister said:

When you installed the wheel did you have the brakes installed. The thin metal slider that the front tab on the pads likes to shift and rub on the rotor that would make a squealing sound. Just a thought.

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Brilliant -well done - you posted this as I was writing my last reply. Yes, that's what it was - except it was the top spring.

jfheath said:

So what was the noise ? Without the brake pads in the calipers and the stopper bolt removed, the disk pad retaining clips were scraping like fingernails on blackboard on the top of the disk

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Yes... if you have the caliper in the 'installed' position and no pads in and no stopper bolt, it's possible the rear bracket was loose and touching the disc or the caliper was resting on the disc in that section...

Well your post John makes me feel better now. I installed CBR bearings last month in the rear, and front wheel and had the same "hard to turn" problem. I have been wondering if I should order some Honda bearings and try it again, but it appears now that the issue is not with the bearings. I decided to just ride it for awhile and see if they loosen up. I haven't ridden it much though due to the never ending rain. I will put it up on the center stand this weekend and see if they turn any easier now. I did see my MPG go down about 1 MPG though after installing the bearings, so they were pretty tight.

jfheath said:

Brilliant -well done - you posted this as I was writing my last reply. Yes, that's what it was - except it was the top spring.

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Actually I read your post, hopped in my time machine and jumped back in time 30 minutes so I could tell you the answer. To not be dead on and discovered I said the problem but describing slightly the wrong part.

Anyhow glad it was something easy. When you said "light squeeling and grating noise" that thin metal used in the caliper jumped out at me. I have had that happen to me a couple times. Typically it is the front slider as I have always had pads in the caliper but I can see how it could be the spring clip part as the issue as well if the brake pads were not in there.

jfheath said:

But it's the sharing of this kind of experience that makes st-owners such a valuable resource. Different people have different ideas and experiences. Often I find, even if the problem isn't solved, the variety of comments made lead me into a different, less blinkered, way of thinking - which helps get the problem solved.

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+2 and then some.

(Not the best graphics but...) Kind of a "cross section" view

...___________... "outer" bearing race top section

...>------------<.. "inner" bearing race with too short spacer and axle
...____________... "outer bearing race bottom section


...___________... "outer" bearing race top section

.>-----------------<.. "inner" bearing race with too long spacer and axle
...____________... "outer bearing race bottom section

Hmmmm, thinking about this. With the axle inside the inner races, and spacer between the inner races, the moving parts are the balls and outer races. The outer races are what seat on the wheel shoulders, the inner races "seat" with the spacer sandwiched between. Presumably, equal distance between the wheel race shoulders and the spacer should preclude any side loading of the balls, visa vi the inner and outer races. A very slight difference in that distance would induce some side loading but wouldn't think it could be much.

Think about it, if the spacer is cocked even a slight bit, it makes the functional length slightly longer. Putting the axle thru as the bearings are seated might help avoid such.

Comments??

I have just done my first ever rear bearing change - on an St1100. I found this thread helpful but it seems there may be still some confusion about the how the shoulders of the bearing seats and the spacer work together. I found the information/diagrams from this ebay supplier very helpful. In summary only one bearing should seat on the shoulder and the other bearing inner ring seats on the tube so it is not intended that both bearings are driven fully down into the shoulders and the inner tube should be standing proud of the second bearing seat once you have fully seated the first one.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-ST1100A-1998-Replacement-Rear-Wheel-Bearing-Kit-/370765443147?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item565357b04b

It was also a great idea to use the old bearing outer ring as a drift after grinding a slot in it and removing the innards. Also the first time I have ever used a grinder on steel - I used the rotary tool ( dremel type) that I got For Christmas. when driving in I managed to start off quite tilted so my tip would be to go very gently at first and check regularly to see that it's square. when drifting out make sure you are on the bearing only and not catching the reverse side of the shoulder in the hub. I also froze the bearings, heated the hub but its still a tight fit !

All in all a very satisfying day though I remain bemused as to why my new to me bike with only 17k should have developed a rough right rear bearing. When I took the wheel off the bearing seal and cage were stuck with grease on the end of the inner tube within the final drive and the bearing was slightly rough to rotate. All super smooth now.

Thanks for sharing about the rear wheel bearing installation. If it wasn't for you I would have done the same darn thing. I think you nailed it about the spacer, but one thing concerns me. If the spacer is longer than the bearing seats, what stops the spacer from pushing the inner race out on the first bearing as the second bearing is seated. How do you really know if its over or under seated? I would think that while seating the second bearing, you'd want the weight of everything resting on the face of both races on the first bearing. So you would need a simular tool on both bearings making contact on both faces of both races on both bearings as the second bearing is being seated. I think that would guarantee all races are true. The honda manual makes no mention of doing it this way. Any input on my theory would be appreciated.
Gary

ya'll got me wondering. If I take the wheel off and take it to a dealer, what will they charge to change the bearings?

Randall53 said:

ya'll got me wondering. If I take the wheel off and take it to a dealer, what will they charge to change the bearings?

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If it's still under warranty, it's worth a try. I did have my 2003 bearings replaced under warranty a few years ago.

Randall53 said:

ya'll got me wondering. If I take the wheel off and take it to a dealer, what will they charge to change the bearings?

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So now you want to pay some 16 yr old kid in the back of a shop to take a ballpeen hammer and the wrong size socket and pound them in until the are both seated incorrectly and binding? Get the proper tools and do it yourself, that way you know it was done correctly and with care...02