Hi.
Thank you for your answer.
I am still not sure how to do the bypass with the 2 wires.
I have just studied the electrical scheme again. The red/white from VRR is in fact not fused.
The 30A fuse is only restricting the current from the battery to the fuse box. -And also restricting the charging current to the battery from the VRR.
Normally when you drive the bike, and everything is ok, there will be almost no current through the 30A fuse.
The main current will go from the VRR to the fuse box. It wil not pass the 30A fuse.
I worst case you can have a bad battery charging all the time. In the same time there is current flowing to the load.
This means that you can have current way more than 30A from the VRR, without the 30A fuse blowing. (If the genarator is able to deliver more )
Can this be the reason why so many people have fried their VRR ?
I think i will split the two wires, and have 2 seperate 30A fuses.
Kairo
Thank you for your answer.
I am still not sure how to do the bypass with the 2 wires.
I have just studied the electrical scheme again. The red/white from VRR is in fact not fused.
The 30A fuse is only restricting the current from the battery to the fuse box. -And also restricting the charging current to the battery from the VRR.
Normally when you drive the bike, and everything is ok, there will be almost no current through the 30A fuse.
The main current will go from the VRR to the fuse box. It wil not pass the 30A fuse.
I worst case you can have a bad battery charging all the time. In the same time there is current flowing to the load.
This means that you can have current way more than 30A from the VRR, without the 30A fuse blowing. (If the genarator is able to deliver more )
Can this be the reason why so many people have fried their VRR ?
I think i will split the two wires, and have 2 seperate 30A fuses.
Kairo
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