Article [13] ST1300 - Pre-load Fluid Replacement

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This is a old air cooled race trick I use to use on copper head gaskets to reuse them I use to put the on the shove get them red hot then put right away in to a bowl of cold water this way the swell back up so you can reuse them once again. This works on copper crush washer also.
 
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This is a old air cooled race trick I use to use on copper head gaskets to reuse them I use to put the on the shove get them red hot then put right away in to a bowl of cold water this way the swell back up so you can reuse them once again. This works on copper crush washer also.

I have done this with copper banjo brake washers on street and race bikes, never a problem.
 
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Thanks for this info. I will use it to sort out my rear shock that has been serviced and rebuilt.
I'm just not to happy with the results so I'm checking out all the threads about the rear shock...
Mine feels like a pogo stick- very bouncy and seems to "bottom out" when the weight is released.
Opposite to bottoming out when the weight is applied..
Maybe I will have some success with this. Will let you guys know.


PS the Video is Great. explains the setting up of the rebound dampening perfectly. Thanks!!
 
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Thanks for this info. I will use it to sort out my rear shock that has been serviced and rebuilt.
I'm just not to happy with the results so I'm checking out all the threads about the rear shock...
Mine feels like a pogo stick- very bouncy and seems to "bottom out" when the weight is released.
Opposite to bottoming out when the weight is applied..
Maybe I will have some success with this. Will let you guys know.


PS the Video is Great. explains the setting up of the rebound dampening perfectly. Thanks!!
Bouncing is either a blown shock or damping set incorrectly. This is adjusted via the small round hole on the right side of the motorcycle near the shock, with a long flat head screwdriver.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
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Bouncing is either a blown shock or damping set incorrectly. This is adjusted via the small round hole on the right side of the motorcycle near the shock, with a long flat head screwdriver.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
Thanks
And thanks to our thread starter (and his video)
I now completely have a much better idea and have done the pre-loader clean and bleed.
Slightly better but the rebound is as though I've set it fully CCW (Soft) even in the fully CW (Hard) position.
Just got off the phone with the guy that did the rebuild and he reckons I need to pull it again and give it to him to recheck...
There may have been an assembly mistake...
 

Throttlejockey

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Here's my .02 since I just did the preload fluid change on mine.

First, I see absolutely no need to remove any body parts to do this job. Just remove the 2- 10mm head bolts holding the preload body. You don't even have to remove the knob unless you want to clean all the crap out from behind it. Unhook hose from plastic holder underneath so you have enough slack to grab the reservoir with a crescent wrench and remove the banjo bolt holding the hose on. (don't forget to mark orientation of hose on preload body) Take over to bench and do as Dave states in the first post. Assembly is reverse of this.

You will need new copper crush washers or it will leak. Since Honda doesn't list them separately you have to buy the entire shock assembly. :rofl1:
Here's the fluid I used and correct Honda copper washer part #.

 

Kevin_56

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How many washers do I need for this job?
I have done this on two different bikes and did not replace either ones washers. But if you feel the need to do so - TWO. One on either side of the hose fitting.

The washers are 8mm ID x 12mm OD x 1.5 ? .5 mm thick.
 
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dduelin

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I did not replace the washers either. I've done this on two different shocks and reused the washers.
 

Throttlejockey

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Well, mine did weep some fluid since I didn't replace them. It had some wetness on the banjo bolt/hose after the bike sat. For the cost of the washers it's cheap insurance.
 
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Just an update. I took the shock out and had the guys that did it have another look-see.
they have since rebuilt it again and this time done it 100% correctly.
It's been in No.2 for a while now and I'm happy to say it's beautiful. (works well also).;)
 
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Thanks! This was quite easy and I've now got pressure before the second click. Tomorrow I'm going to tackle the thermostat.
 
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Here's my .02 since I just did the preload fluid change on mine.

First, I see absolutely no need to remove any body parts to do this job. Just remove the 2- 10mm head bolts holding the preload body. You don't even have to remove the knob unless you want to clean all the crap out from behind it. Unhook hose from plastic holder underneath so you have enough slack to grab the reservoir with a crescent wrench and remove the banjo bolt holding the hose on. (don't forget to mark orientation of hose on preload body) Take over to bench and do as Dave states in the first post. Assembly is reverse of this.

You will need new copper crush washers or it will leak. Since Honda doesn't list them separately you have to buy the entire shock assembly. :rofl1:
Here's the fluid I used and correct Honda copper washer part #.

Fyi if you enlarge the picture of the fork fluid posted here....you see it says that it IS NOT to be use in the rear shock.....02
 
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dduelin

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Fyi if you enlarge the picture of the fork fluid posted here....you see it says that it IS NOT to be use in the rear shock.....02
Not for use in rear shock applications because no Honda OEM shock is owner serviceable for the DAMPING oil contained inside the shock body and Showa likely uses a different viscosity and formula fluid for damping rear shocks compared to forks.

Don't confuse that with the preload adjuster mechanism which is external to the actual shock absorber body and it's damping function. Shocks may or may not have a remote preload adjuster like the ST1300 has. The hydraulic preload adjuster on a motorcycle rear shock is no different from a standard hydraulic jack mechanism that uses a light oil to set and maintain the relative position of two movable pistons. Move the adjuster 5 mm down it's bore and the collar on the shock moves 5 mm and compresses the spring 5 mm. You could use vegetable or olive oil to do the same thing although using fork oil or hydraulic jack oil is recommended. It remains stable over time and doesn't turn rancid. You could also use Marvel Mystery Oil. :)
 
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Throttlejockey

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Not for use in rear shock applications because no Honda OEM shock is owner serviceable for the DAMPING oil contained inside the shock body and Showa likely uses a different viscosity and formula fluid for damping rear shocks compared to forks.

Don't confuse that with the preload adjuster mechanism which is external to the actual shock absorber body and it's damping function. Shocks may or may not have a remote preload adjuster like the ST1300 has. The hydraulic preload adjuster on a motorcycle rear shock is no different from a standard hydraulic jack mechanism that uses a light oil to set and maintain the relative position of two movable pistons. Move the adjuster 5 mm down it's bore and the collar on the shock moves 5 mm and compresses the spring 5 mm. You could use vegetable or olive oil to do the same thing although using fork oil or hydraulic jack oil is recommended. It remains stable over time and doesn't turn rancid. You could also use Marvel Mystery Oil. :)

Exactly Dave. It's not being used internally in the shock.
 
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Not for use in rear shock applications because no Honda OEM shock is owner serviceable for the DAMPING oil contained inside the shock body and Showa likely uses a different viscosity and formula fluid for damping rear shocks compared to forks.

Don't confuse that with the preload adjuster mechanism which is external to the actual shock absorber body and it's damping function. Shocks may or may not have a remote preload adjuster like the ST1300 has. The hydraulic preload adjuster on a motorcycle rear shock is no different from a standard hydraulic jack mechanism that uses a light oil to set and maintain the relative position of two movable pistons. Move the adjuster 5 mm down it's bore and the collar on the shock moves 5 mm and compresses the spring 5 mm. You could use vegetable or olive oil to do the same thing although using fork oil or hydraulic jack oil is recommended. It remains stable over time and doesn't turn rancid. You could also use Marvel Mystery Oil. :)

Good point and explanation thanks.
 
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