Add my name to the list of people who have successfully performed this fix; all due to the time and patience of those who contributed their efforts.
I don't think it matters much which you use. Over the years in this forum and in the Goldwing forums I am now following, people used both hydraulic jack oil and fork oils of various viscosities with good results. In my 1981 BMW ATF was a popular oil to use in forks so I guess it qualifies.Thanks for such a helpful article and thread. Curious, can I use ATF or jack oil for the reservoir?
Thanks for the instructions. Just did this on my '05 and it made a big difference. Ride is much better. Is there anything we can do to make the front suspension a little more plush?I have found an even easier short cut! Instead of removing the knob, spring and detent ball, then removing the (2) 10mm bolts, unclipping the line from the fender, loosening the rear master cylinder bolt, and feeling the whole assembly over to the right side etc.....
New improved method:
1. Remove left side cover
2. Observe how the unit is bolted on
3. Instead of removing the 10mm bolts, follow the mounting bar upwards to where it bolts to the frame by the lift handle. You'll see (1) 10mm bolt. simply remove this one bolt, and gently pull the line free from the front of the rear fender. You can then simply turn the entire unit upside down on the left side of the bike without removing anything else. You now have a bar to hang onto while you loosen the banjo fitting. As far as having the line point in the correct position, I simply observe where it was before you loosen it, or mark it with a sharpie. I can now R&R one of these in about 10 minutes! Hope this helps.
Did you have to remove the plastic panel for clutch side to access that single 10mm bolt? Thank youThanks for the instructions. Just did this on my '05 and it made a big difference. Ride is much better. Is there anything we can do to make the front suspension a little more plush?
Not so much to take out the bolt but to get the preload adjuster and its support bar out you will need to remove the body panel.Did you have to remove the plastic panel for clutch side to access that single 10mm bolt? Thank you
Finally getting to it, anyway you could share a pict of bolt(area) which needs to be removed? Anyways, I'll be removing body panel to charge the battery up. Thank youNot so much to take out the bolt but to get the preload adjuster and its support bar out you will need to remove the body panel.
Why are you removing the support bar? There are 2 bolts with 10mm heads that hold the adjuster to the bar. That is all that needs to be removed. It is easier to get to everything if you remove the body panel on that side, but not totally necessary.Not so much to take out the bolt but to get the preload adjuster and its support bar out you will need to remove the body panel.
Found it:I refilled the preload adjuster on my '09 about 5 yrs. ago. I used this thread as a guide then. It's time to refill again.
There are usually torque specs for the banjo bolts on brake plumbing. I've re-read the entire thread, and have not seen a torque spec for the preload adjuster banjo bolt.
I've got two questions:
1) Does anyone know the correct torque for the banjo bolt?
2) Someone posted a thread long ago in which the preload adjuster collar at one end of the shock's spring was disassembled to determine why preload fluid was disappearing to begin with. The collar is what is acted upon by pressure changes in the preload adjuster mechanism itself to actually change spring preload. IIRC, the spring preload collar assembly at the top of the shock that consists of a ring-piston within a ring-cylinder. Movement of the assembly's piston acts upon one end of the spring to change preload by varying its at-rest (rear tire off the ground) compression (preload). The author of the thread posted pics of a large O-ring in the collar's cylinder that becomes compressed or worn, allowing preload fluid to gradually weep out of the adjuster system, resulting in loss of travel. I've been unable to locate that thread. Anyone know where to locate it?
Good Ridin'
slmjim