Need opinion on CC wiring re-do

Joined
Mar 8, 2009
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49
Location
Mound Minnesota
Bike
2003 ST 1300
Thanks for the great write up. Took mine apart and put a drop of oil in all three valves. For now it's working like new again. Prior, it would slowly fade until it slow so much it would disengage. Dos anyone know if the silinoid / valve parts are available new?
 
Joined
Jun 16, 2007
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77
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Massillon, Ohio
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2005 BMW RT
Holding the ?accel? button down, the CC brought the bike to an indicated 95mph but would go no further due to a lack of vacuum volume. Still, not bad for only coiled hose as the main volume. I guess there is about 3-4 ft rolled up under the airbox.
Coiled hose dose not hold very much volume. Ten feet of hose is only a fraction of what a home made 2" of 3" canister holds.
Add a check valve between the engine and the canister.
 

moddy

the mod
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Dec 2, 2011
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836
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Seymour, IN
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05 ST1300
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8843
John O pointed me to this thread, I'm goin in on my own servo soon, mostly due to a lot of inconsistent behavior. When I would have the speed set, a slight increase in speed to go up hill, it would disconnect. I knew full well the vac container I made wouldn't have even had a chance to contribute to the vacuum. I also found out the unit, though new in the box, could be over 10 years old. Thanks for putting this together.
 
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Dec 11, 2020
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Skippack, PA
Necro-posting with a vengeance! I found the posts with the pictures of the guts. Looking at them, I think my servo piston/slide needs a stiff shot of silicon spray. One question: how do I open the thing? I see 6(?) snap tabs around the "lid" with the tower where the cable comes out.

I'd try fiddling with them but if I snap one off and can't re-seal the servo... Not Good. Advice, please?

FWIW, I'm inclined to drill a small hose, to let me periodically spray something like Dry Slide (slick w/o left over carrier). A piece of Gorilla Tape should do as a seal.
 
Joined
Sep 17, 2007
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989
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Newport News, VA
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2006 ST1300A
Drilling a hole "may" work. I gave up on the vacuum operated units a couple years ago and went ($$$ ... gulp) McCruise. Was money well spent because there's been no issue since. My only regret was not switching over earlier. If ya' plan to keep your bike at least 3 more years, give it a go. The lack of that headache was worth it after having suffered through 2 Audiovox units.
 
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Dec 11, 2020
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This installation is in a VW Vanagon (four wheels), and been in place for just shy of ten years. The first installation was in C10 Concord and that was when the AudioVox version (full-on print job) was still available. The last I saw were "white box specials". Same stuff, just no branding. Don't really want to know what that was about. Anyway, the CCS-100 is an orphan. Plan B is probably a Rosta, spendy, and complex to figure out what kits to order.

Getting the CCS-100 back in service is, for me, the best way to go.
 

kiltman

Site Supporter
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68
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Stratford, Ontario Canada
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2002,ST1100ABS
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8826
Plan B is probably a Rosta, spendy, and complex to figure out what kits to order.
The complex part of the Rostra will be getting the speed information for the servo. The control switch is the same as the Audiovox. You do away with the vacuum lines. You replace the Audiovox harness with the Rostra. You can use the same mechanical connection to the throttle body on the Vanagon. What were you using to get the speed sensor info? The coil wire or the ECM?
 
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Long story short, originally, I used the coil wire, but... The Westy Digifant FI system (scary thing from the Stone Age) has been replaced with an after-market FI, including new ECU. That added VSS (spiffy adapter on the back of the speedo). Now to find the signal somewhere near the motor, to feed to the servo...
 
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I got the servo's bottom cover off. Ain't a lot of sealing! I'll work on something impermanent, maybe a bead of dielectrice grease, to seal the gaps when the cover goes back on. Unfortunately, there's no big hint about the state of the piston.

Getting the top off isn't as easy as the bottom. Of course. At least I doubt I'm fighting with glue or caulk or a balky O-ring. The snap tabs are simply a PITA to deal with.

The tabs for the bottom cover need a small amount of encouragement from a thin screwdriver. I slid a pair of toothpicks under a lifted tab to a) get a touch more lift, and b) keep the tab from dropping back after taking the screw driver to the next tab. BE VERY PARANOID ABOUT BREAKING A TAB!
 
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Progress... sorta. I got the top off by using a collection of small "carries in a pocket protector" flat blade drivers to move the restraining tabs back. It's not worth the effort to open the top. There's nothing to be inspected. There are no parts to wear through.

The top assembly has the actuating diaphragm and something to transport the cable core with. Beyond that... nada. There are four vent ports on the top, next to the cable tower. The allow air to move in and out above the diaphragm. Aside from venting possible excess air, which might oppose diaphragm travel, they have no involvement in speed control.

The diaphragm either leaks or it doesn't. If it leaks... good luck with that. There are three ports on the top assembly. the center is "vacuum in" from the motor/booster. The outer two allow air in to raise pressure or (not correct but an analogy) vent off some vacuum. Apply suction to block two ports and apply suction to the one open port. The diaphragm should draw the cable into the servo. NOTE: There is a lot of slack in the cable core! Apply light tension on the cable during testing - a rubber band to a fixed point should do it. With the cable lightly tensioned, and vacuum under the diaphragm, either the diaphragm moves (no leak) or doesn't or tension releases as air leaks through the diaphragm. The diaphragm looks fairly "beefy" - point being, the odds of the diaphragm aren't high. Cable core motion is pretty loose - almost no chance of binding, and almost no chance of chafe or drag. End of this is... Don't bother to open the top. Nothing to see here, folks.

BTW, there's nothing worth lubing. There's no slide, only the flexing diaphragm.
 
Joined
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Weird. I can pull a vacuum, but not much. Maybe (-) 7 in.Hg. That's not much, but it doesn't leak off from there. Since there's a constant source of vacuum, I think I can dismiss the diaphragm. The cable pulls in, as expected. There remain four contenders, two are dead ends. Either the PCB has cratered, or a solenoid is toast. Neither is repairable, except to swap the bottom assembly. Unless the source of parts it damaged, why cannibalize that servo. The other options are a leaky vacuum source, or the adjuster, at the motor end, has changed. If the vacuum source is compromised, the motor should act up because of the vacuum leak. Did the adjuster shift? Possible but I wouldn't care to bet on it.

Where now? Put the thing back, treat it as a fresh installation, and see what happens. If the problem persists, check the vacuum plumbing again. If that fails... Time to buy a Rostra system. [/ sigh]
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
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I don't know exactly what fixed the problem, but it is fixed. And I know a lot more about what's inside a servo. Woohoo!

My guess is I overlooked Something Important right after finding there was a problem. Whether opening the servo fixed anything is, being honest, debatable. starting from (near) zero on the installation probably swept up the real cause for the problem.

Great thanks for all of the advice, pointers, and comments.

I'd go riding (now an FJR) but snow's expected tomorrow, and again, two days later. Of course. Grrr...
 
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