Found a solution to over priced ST1100 alternators - maybe

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Mar 31, 2012
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Well, I suffered the typical seized alternator problem like so many other UK riders. I can't afford the money for a new one and I take offence at being expected to pay hundreds of pounds for an alternator which is so similar to ones which sell for around ?40 on eBay.
So a little research on the Internet showed that some people have used an alternator from a Bandit, but I couldn't find any real details.
I took the plunge and bought an alternator from a local breaker for ?40. He thinks it's from a Bandit, but can't be sure.
The replacement looked a lot like the ST alternator, except the drive shaft was different. Should be easy enough to change that I thought.
It wasn't until I looked a little closer that I realised that the front end was different too. But do you think I could change just the shaft and front end ?
That would have been too easy.
The Fixing screws are in a different location on the Bandit alternator... You know, the ones which hold the two halves together.
So, my only option left to me is to use the entire case of the bandit alternator with my original shaft.
The front of the bandit case is different and has a protruding collar around the oil seal so I ground that off (see picture) ..... I'll add pics later, my iPad doesn't allow adding pics to posts..
After a lot of struggling I managed to prize the two halves apart and proceede to install my shaft into the new case. As soon as I tightened the casings together everything went tight and the alternator wouldn't turn. I wrestled with this for a while and then gave up thinking I had done something wrong and buggered the whole thing up.
I tried to get a proper ST alternator for a reasonable price and failed so I decided to buy another Bandit one and give it another try.
?40 later and I was at it again, but this time I found the reason for the alternator jamming.
The shaft in relation to the rear bearing is slightly longer than the Bandit shaft and the back bearing was bottoming out when I tightened the cases together.
My opens at this point were to either get a lower profile bearing or try to machine about 2 or 3mm out of the back casing to allow the shaft to go fully home. Not really wanting to pursue either of these options I hit upon another idea - although it's a bit of a bodge, I think it will work out ok.
I inserted a couple of washers between the case halves so that the case tightens up, but there is a slight gap between the halves.
It's not a great solution, but the magnets are still between the coils and the alternator turns fine.
I don't think there will be any problems when I refit it as the bolts holding the alternator to the engine will keep the washers in place and there is an even clamping force around the whole unit.
I'll let you know how it goes in a couple of weeks when I get the bike back together. I am doing a full repaint at the same time so it could be a while.

Disclaimer- this is what I have done, you are responsible for anything you do on your bike .... If it doesn't work out for you then it's not my fault.

Keep your fingers crossed for me, if this works it has only cost me ?80 and it could cost you only ?40 if you are not daft enough to buy a second alternator when one would have sufficed..
 
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Mar 31, 2012
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Here are the photos

This one shows the two Bandit alternators side by side - you can see where I have ground the collar from around the oil seal to allow it to mate to the ST engine


alt 2.jpg

This shows where I have inserted washers to allow the halves to be tightened but still leave clearance for the slightly longer shaft


alt 3.jpg

So, what do you think, do you thnk it will work ?

S
 
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I hope it works for you Simon.Makes you wonder how Honda can Justfy what they charge for altenator.There was a thread on here a while back about a company in Plymoth who could rebuild ST altenator.I wrote their no down somewhere if you need it.
Pat
 
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Hopefully I wont need their number Pat, but I'll bear it in mind in case it all goes tits up !!
Does anyone have any thoughts on the potential success or failure of this bodge ? I have a niggling worry about vibration and not a 360 degree joint around the case.
thanks
 
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Simon, i replaced the rear bearing with a narrower one when i did mine, i didnt need to machine the front collar though but im not sure what bandit my donor alternator came from, an 02 bandit 1200 im told but i dont know for sure
 
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I picked up a used 1200 bandit alternator off ebay after reading your post Jim but it appears one of the mountings is in a different position than on the ST.So as you previously stated they must have differing models for the Bandit its just a case of finding the right one.


 
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thats a different one to the one i used anyway, theres no nut holding on the sprocket, its either interference fit or one piece on the one i got,
i'm told that kubota use one very similar on their mini diggers too but i havent first hand experience of this
 
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Bugger !!!
After all that work and Andi has just pointed out the most obvious flaw in my plan - it looked the same at first glance. Just didn't think to put them side by side.
Well, it's back to the drawing board unless I can find a work around - is it possible to cut off and re-weld the lug in the right position? I know it's not an easy material to weld or even if it is possible at all.
 
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It would be ideal if an engineering type made a coupling piece and an extension for the drive so that you could just mount the Bandit alternator in place.Unfortunatly I dont think its going to happen any time soon.
 
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that alternator i used has a hyvo chain sprocket on the rotor shaft, the one in the pic is a helical gear drive,

damn shame i cant say definitively what it came off, as i mentioned i grabbed it off the suzuki bandit alternators shelf in my local dismantlers
 
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Ok, so I think I can still salvage this situation. I have offered the Bandit alternator up to the engine and I think that if I align the bottom right hand bolt (as viewed from the rear of the engine) I should be able to make a steel plate which allows me to fit the existing bolts and convert it to suit the bandit alternator. I'll try this over the enext couple of dys and post my findings back here.
 
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It would be ideal if an engineering type made a coupling piece and an extension for the drive so that you could just mount the Bandit alternator in place.Unfortunatly I dont think its going to happen any time soon.
I've done it. I have made a coupling plate and I have successfully had the Bandit alternator on my ST. I am in the process of having the plate copied by a fabricating firm and I'll be selling them with full detailed instructions on how to do it.

The only thing you need to remember is that you must use the shaft from your ST. This is fine, because in the case of seized or corroded alternators it is only the body casting that is damaged.

In a couple of weeks I'll have the conversion and instructions ready to sell so anyone can fit a ?40 alternator instead of a ?300 one !!!
 
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Maybe you could offer a conversion service i.e. they post you their alternator and you post back the converted unit,mounting plate and instructions?
 
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Not sure that would be a good idea Andi - it will mean the alternator off the bike for much longer than is necessary.
To those of you following this thread, please read the other thread on this subject as it seems that all this talk of a 40A alternator is misleading due to a new discovery today.
 
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As well as your engineering acumen, I admire you entrepenneeeryeeeuuullythingy skills too Simon. All the best with the E Bay idea.

Paul
 
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Thanks Paul. I have tried to do it in such a way that I have a potential to sell conversion kits, but I have also tried to include enough information for the enthusiastic DIYer to have a go by himself.
Hopefully I'll make some money from my conversion, and hopefully some people will take my idea and expand on it.
 
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