ABS intermittent code 5

OK gurus,
I have an intermittent ABS light flash at me on my 05 1300. When I pull the code it is a 5 which says the rear module. I suspect a loose connection as it only happens when I hit a bump or when I ride in the wet. Some where in my short memory there was talk of some poor connection being common. Now I checked the sensor, seems fine, pulled the tail off the bike to get at the ECU and checked there for sensor resistance, can't find a spec but it seems about right, any one have the correct spec?. Connector looked great, power, ground etc are good. What I would like to know is how the heck do you get to the module connectors with out ripping the inner fender out of the way. And where is the connector for the sensor it's self, I don't really what to rip the front plastic again, getting lazy I guess. Seems I am working on this bike more than riding it. I think it sat too long in a comfy garage and is now complaining about how I ride it. ) The manual goes on to say swap modules front to rear to see what happens. ***, I really don't want to go there.
Thanks
Brian
Canoe B.C.

BrianB said:

OK gurus,
I have an intermittent ABS light flash at me on my 05 1300. When I pull the code it is a 5 which says the rear module. ... Now I checked the sensor, seems fine...

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You're looking in the wrong place. Code 5 is the rear modulator, which you'll find tucked in behind the battery. If you're having an intermittent problem in wet weather, clean and re-seat the connectors for the motor and crank angle sensor. Odds are good something's become cruddy under there. The fuse is in slot "H" of the fuse block. The ABS control unit doesn't have a history of failure, so don't go spelunking in the tail except as a last resort.

...pulled the tail off the bike to get at the ECU and checked there for sensor resistance, can't find a spec but it seems about right, any one have the correct spec?

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I'd have to go dig, but the wheel speed sensors are probably Hall effect sensors, so just checking the resistance won't tell you much of anything.

jfheath said:

I don't quite understand my logic in explaining this, because the modulator only needs to turn when there is pressure in the system - ie when the brakes are applied.

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The modulators are exercised and tested by turning them at least one full revolution each time the ABS computer does its start-up diagnostics. I'm pretty sure that's true for the 1100 as well.

--Mark

If you're having an intermittent problem in wet weather, clean and re-seat the connectors for the motor and crank angle sensor. Odds are good something's become cruddy under there. The fuse is in slot "H" of the fuse block. The ABS control unit doesn't have a history of failure, so don't go spelunking in the tail except as a last resort.

Click to expand...

I only went in there as it seemed like an easier place to start than trying to get at the modulator, standard Automotive wiggle test so to speak, hook up ohmmeter and wiggle all the connections hoping you find something-- still not sure how you get at the modulator connectors with out disassembling the whole rear of the bike-- I am going to try to day by taking out the battery, and relay block etc. I really don't want to start taking brake lines off. This bike still has very low mileage on it as it was never ridden much before I got it. Just turned over 19000 kilos. Which would make one think that corrosion or part failure, is not the issue, just a loose connection. It has also been doing this for a while now, I am just now finding the time to dig into why.


Thanks for the info, I will post if I find some thing.
Brian

Well it was too nice today to be working on the bike, went for a ride like I'm suppose to. the ABs coded right away but i had to fill up and on that start the light went out and never came back in 150 miles. Hit lots of bumps and did 15 miles of gravel, must be the wet that makes it fault. When I get time I will rip the plastic off and check those connector I can't get at easy. If I find something I will post so that there is a record
Brian
STOC# 4151
Canoe B.C.

Well I might have fixed it. Once I knew the modules cycle shortly after start up (Thanks)I put two and two together. I did a complete brake fluid flush. I got some white gunk out of the proportion valve bleeder, might have been just at the bleeder but it lasted quite a while as I sucked with the tool. Now this might not have been the fix as my battery failed the same day as the flush so I never got to ride it until today. ( I cooked the battery with a battery tender that I thought was a smart one, lesson learned.) Any ways today's ride went fine and I am off on a longer one tomorrow to pick up tires. So might have been gunk or might have been low voltage. We shall see
Brian
STOC#4151
Canoe B.C.

Not fixed, getting more consistent-- trying to isolate with out swapping modules-- might just pull the bulb!!!
Brian

Well I believe it is fixed, it was the rear modulator, or the connection at the ECU. After checking every thing, I decided that I had to swap the modulators. Not wanting to do this I studied the wiring diagrams and determined that if I swapped the harness connectors at the ECU I could effectively do the same thing. You have to reverse the two wires for each modulator and swap two others. Easy to do. Left every thing off the bike and went for a ride-- Bingo! coded for the front module Cleared and rode some more, set again. So, what to do. I was headed for WeSTOC in two weeks and there is no chance of getting a module any time soon, especially since our local Honda stores are all closed, read 3. Thinking on the problem I determined that as the problem was so intermittent that the module motor must be sticking some how, when the ECU tested it. ?????? I think this is due to extended inactivity as the bike was never used before I bought it. It does say in the manual that the code can be caused by fine debris. So with the connector off the ECU I took two jumpers and a battery and cycled the module motor while pressing on the rear brake pedal. I did this a bunch of times. I then reassembled every thing and test rode. No codes. Rode 7000 K to Golden and all over and no codes. I assume it is fixed, the light cycles like it is supposed to and the brakes work great. I will do another brake bleed as part of my winter maintenance just to be sure. Hope this helps some one else out there.
Brian
Canoe B.C.

Ok I just though that I would let you know it is not fixed. Last fall after getting back from Colorado it started to glitch again. More and more often until the ABS light was blinking just about all the time. First ride yesterday came on right away. So I bit the bullet, The last thing in the book is swap modules front to back. I wanted to change rear pads and fork oil as part of my spring maintenance any ways. Not that bad to do, took a while to get every thing bled. Went for a short ride to town and back, no light but it has done this before. I am planning a big ride tomorrow so it should be a good test. Supposed to rain leaving both spots, dry in-between. If it still codes for the rear, 5 blinks, then I know I have to rip into the wires more than I have. If it codes for the front well new parts will be on order. Crap.
Wish me luck
Brian
Canoe B.C.

Well so far so good, 1000 miles of all conditions and no codes. Did the re-bleed fix it for a while again, Hmmm we will see
Brian
Canoe B.C.

Hello - how did you get on? - I have been pulling out my hair (the little that's left of it) with a similar fault - see my thread.

Hi,
So far every thing is good. Sooke and back, lots of short rides. Brakes are fine, I suspect that either I inadvertently fixed the poor electrical connection, or the second real good flush fixed what ever issue I had. I did install new rear pads at the same time, but I don't see where that would have an effect. Swapping modules was really not that big a deal in the end, getting every thing bled out after is the real pain in the butt. What's your issue??