Article [13] ST1300 - Fuel Pump Replacement

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Tonight I replaced my fuel filter and while I was in there I tossed in a new fuel pump. The bike has 94000 miles and I had some bad fuel a while back and have been wanting to replace the filter. A member here mentioned another fuel pump option rather than the entire assembly option that Honda has for $400. The fuel pump motor in the ST1300 is a common automotive pump. I would post the link to ebay but it will be gone soon and just be a dead link the model number listed is:

HFP-382

A Google search of that will result in several options. The kit I bought off ebay was $68. Here is an example of the kit. (note over 400 vehicles use this pump)

High Flow Pump

The one problem with this option is the small sock that attaches to the pump pickup has to be reused. Honda doesn't sell this part. While I was in there I also replaced the Fuel Filter (16900-MBG-013); Filter, Fuel Return (16714-MBG-000) and when the assembly is removed you should replace the gasket (17574-MN5-000) which seals the fuel pump assembly. There are also some crush washers on the banjo fitting that could be replaced if you are ordering parts anyhow. I don't have the part number handy.

There is already an article on fuel filter replacement so I will focus this on the fuel pump. It is pretty much the same process so I would recommend looking at both articles. Since the tools needed and the process for the removal of the assembly is documented there I will skip that part of the job. It is pretty straight forward.

Ok I will start by saying that the towel is clean. Just stained. You do want a clean surface to work on.

Here is the assembly removed.



At the bottom of the assembly is a rubber boot that holds the Fuel Return Line Filter. This material is a stainless steel wool looking material. I have seen stuff for cleaning dishes that looks very much like this. I probably didn't need to replace it but it was cheap and I was ordering stuff anyhow.



Here is a comparison of the old and the new. The pic didn't turn our that well.



Once removed you can see the sock on the intake of the fuel pump.



To remove the pump there is a single screw that holds a band around the pump. There is also a ground wire attached to this screw. Remove it and then straps will bend back. Also disconnect the power lead from the pump.



Since I was replacing the filter and the pump I found it easier to remove them together and disconnect them separate from the assembly.



Swapping the part was as simple as disconnecting hoses and reconnecting them. The sock is held in place by a friction washer. I popped off the old one and used the new one that came with the packaging. There wasn't an easy way to get a shot of that but it is pretty simple. As long as you have the pump and possibly the filter out of the way, now would be a good time to replace the gasket. You can do it at the end but it is easier to do it now at this point with the pump and possibly the filter out of the way.

When reassembling make sure the return filter is where the return line dumps fuel back into the tank. Basically between that and the sock that has to get reused as seen here.



Button the rubber boot back up and you are done reassembling the pump assembly.

Here are some shots showing the old pump and the new pump side by side.

New pump on top



New pump on the Right. This shot is the intake of the pumps. The post in the middle are there for the friction washer to retain the pre-filter sock.



New pump on the Right. This shot shows the output and the connector for the power.



When I opened up the rubber boot on my pump this is the debris that was located on the pre-filter sock.




Since it may come up, there isn't a real reason I am replacing the pump. I am having some issues with stalling where I wanted to replace the filter. At $68 I figured I might as well throw a new pump in as I have close to 100K miles on this pump. My stalling issue is more likely related to the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator or vac leak which I will address if the filter doesn't resolve my stalling issue. The new pump comes with a new pre-filter sock but it will not fit in our application. Blowing on the old filter and comparing it to the new one showed that it was pretty restricted. The entire process was a little over an hour.

Hope this option helps someone out there if there is a fuel pump issue.
 

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okmurdog

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Re: ST1300 Fuel Pump Replacement

Good pics & description...thanks for taking the time to put this together.
 

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Blowing on the old filter and comparing it to the new one showed that it was pretty restricted.
It would be interesting if you could cut open the old filter to see what is in it. Just don't blow yourself up doing it...
 
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Great write up. I was having issues with the bike stalling at idle when the temps are over 85 or so. I also had a major but inconsistent issue with fuel surging after a long run. It then became an issue after shorter runs. I checked hoses and replaced the filter but no improvement. The lower and upper tank were spotless.I found a used pump of a low mile wreck and replaced the whole assembly for about $90. So far so good after about 6K on the replacement. The bike now has 162K on the clock. Still chasing the stall at idle issue.
 
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sennister
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Great write up. I was having issues with the bike stalling at idle when the temps are over 85 or so. I also had a major but inconsistent issue with fuel surging after a long run. It then became an issue after shorter runs. I checked hoses and replaced the filter but no improvement. The lower and upper tank were spotless.I found a used pump of a low mile wreck and replaced the whole assembly for about $90. So far so good after about 6K on the replacement. The bike now has 162K on the clock. Still chasing the stall at idle issue.
Have you tried to replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator? On mine I wanted a new filter. I am thinking it is either the filter or FPR.
 
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sennister
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So, does the new pump work as advertised?
I still haven't ridden the bike other than down the driveway. Granted I have a pretty long driveway. So far I see no difference than with the OEM pump. I did bring the idle back down to 1000 RPM. I have been busy working on TwinPine's bike. Driving lights, brake flush, counter balancer adjustment, preload refill, hyper lights and speedo healer. I think that is all that we did.
 
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Have you tried to replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator? On mine I wanted a new filter. I am thinking it is either the filter or FPR.
Not yet. Do you think that would be a temperature sensitive component? BTW - Back when I replaced my filter I cut it open and it was spotless too.
 
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sennister
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Not yet. Do you think that would be a temperature sensitive component? BTW - Back when I replaced my filter I cut it open and it was spotless too.
Not sure if it would be temp sensitive. I guess the temps have been over 85 or so when I get the stalling as well. It has mainly stared with warmer weather. One thing I did to stop the stalling until I could try the fuel pump replacement was to bump up the idle. I went up to 1500 RPM. I could have likely gone lower but it ended the stalling.

I plan on cutting open the filter. I wanted to let it dry out for a day or two. Maybe tomorrow.
 
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sennister
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Well, fresh tank of gas in the bike and took it to work. Idle is back down to 1000 RPM. The bike ran like a top. Feels a little smoother and MPG seems a little higher. I normally get 40-45 and I was seeing 45-50 today. So I will have to ride it some more and see what long term testing does.
 
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I had two separate cases of my fuel pump acting up in hot temps (>90 degrees) while at 2 bars on the gauge. Symptoms were cutting out/surging while moving, and it wouldn't idle. As soon as I filled the tank it ran perfect. My fuel mileage has also dropped roughly 5mpg since last season. I should admit that I'm one who tests the range of a tank of fuel on a regular basis...and I mean down to the last drop. Yes, I'm a fuel pump abuser. So tonight I ordered a pump from the same source sennister used. I'll update on the install and performance after install.
 
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Edit: The seller seems to be coming through. I got a response first thing this morning that I must have gotten a pump for a GSXR by mistake, I guess they need the plastic removed. He was sending a pump out immediately, along with a return label for this pump. I should have them Wednesday. As I have said- anyone can make a mistake. I judge by how the mistake is handled. Now, hopefully I get the pump before my ST leaves me on the side of the road. :D

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I just have to ask, WHY ME? My pump arrived yesterday while we were at Mountain Mike's RTE. I opened the package when I got home tonight, and saw something wasn't right. The plastic that is intended to hold the electrical plug secure is missing! It looks like someone cut it off for some reason. I see its intact on sennister's pump, and its intact in the photo of the seller's listing. I contacted him about it, hopefully I can get a replacement very quickly. My pump acted up again on my way home tonight, which makes 3 times. I don't think it has many more warnings left before it ends up leaving me stranded!

 
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Well the seller came through and had the correct fuel pump in my hands in 2 days, with a prepaid label included for the return shipping. I haven't had time to install it until today. It was very straightforward- pull the pump assembly from the tank, loosen a hose clamp, remove the screw holding the band, unplug the wire, and remove the pump. I used carb cleaner to ensure the weird steel wool-like filter material was clean (it was already very clean), and to clean the old sock filter. I reused the sock filter because it was very clean, and the included new filter was a bit different. I reassembled and the bike started right up. I haven't taken it on the road yet, hopefully I'll get a short ride in tomorrow, then I'll report if there seems to be any mileage change. Hopefully this cures the poor running and stalling when low on fuel on very hot days.

Jim
 
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Sennister / nhdiesel, how are you guys making out with the automotive pump? I am having issues too when the bike is very warm, acted up three times in the past two weeks. Heading out for Blue Ridge tomorrow and am a little concerned. I tried to order a new pump and have it replaced before I leave but apparently they are on back order and the earliest I can get one is 14 Sept. so I had to decide to cancel the trip or take a chance. The issue seems to clear itself up if I stop the bike and let it cool down. It then runs for quite awhile with no issues. After reading your article here sennister, I will go the automotive pump route if you are still running fine (pump is $550 here in Ontario from Honda, so this represents a significant savings).

Dave
 
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Not much to report...only ride was the 35 mile commute this morning. But so far so good. Throttle response and power seem up a little, and MPG went up at least 5 MPG (using the display). Oh, and it fired up much quicker. I think the old pump was bleeding down when parked.

Sent from my LG-US670 using Tapatalk 2
 
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sennister
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I have about 1500 miles on the new pump. I still am seeing about 5MPG better mileage but no change in my stalling issue. Though like I said I wasn't really putting the pump high on the list for the issue that I was having. My symptoms were different.

That hardest part about the swap is to get the friction washer thing back on there that holds on the sock filter but it isn't very hard. Other than that it is a super easy job. Basically a plug and play swap.

I would imagine that most auto parts stores would carry this pump as it seems to be a pretty common part in cages. It is recommended that the gasket that seals the pump assembly be replaced based on the service manual. I replaced mine.
 
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sennister
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Jim, I always thought the FPR held the fuel in the rails (not relying on the rubber hose between fuel pump and rail to hold pressure). Do I misunderstand? TIA.
I think it can be either one that would cause the pressure to drop while sitting. Keep in mind that the fuel line comes up to the fuel rail from a connection on the Fuel rail. On the other side of the fuel rail is the FPR which has a vac line and a return line to the gas tank. When the engine is off, if the FPR is failing it could allow pressure to bleed off returning gas to the tank. Which is what you describe. However if the pump had a seal issue it could allow gas backwards through the fuel pump with is what Jim is describing. Basically two separate paths that would have the same symptom.
 
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