Tool for Easy Oil Filter Removal

Andrew Shadow

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I have seen a great many posts about the difficulty of removing the oil filter on the ST1300. Mainly due to its location it is hard to get any kind of tool to grab on to it securely. I thought I would pass on what I use for tight locations like this. Maybe it will help some one else out. I use a strap type tool which removes it with out any difficulty- even the first time when it has the "gorilla" installed factory filter. It is basically a piece of seat-belt webbing attached to a steel cylinder with a handle on it. As you can see in the picture it also has a 3/8" square drive in one end so a ratchet can be used on it. Since you can use any combination of ratchet, ratchet extensions, swivels, u-joints as you like you can remove any filter in any location quite easily as long as you can wrap the strap around it. It is very slim and fits pretty much anywhere an oil filter can be hiding. I have had it for as long as I can remember so I don't know if anything similar is still on the market but I would assume so. Would not be very difficult to make your own if you were so inclinded.
 

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dduelin

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I have seen a great many posts about the difficulty of removing the oil filter on the ST1300. Mainly due to its location it is hard to get any kind of tool to grab on to it securely.....
There is no such difficulty using this tool. It's purpose made for Honda oil filters and I use it on my ST1300 and Acura TL. Of course it is limited to the OEM diameter filters whereas a strap filter fits all sizes.

 

st1300doug

Yep...been using that one (Dave) for years. I shaved off some Outside metal to clear the frame easier. Looks like you may have done the same. Paid like...$9 for it four years ago. Works great, to the T! (I only use Honda OEM Filters...)
 
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Andrew Shadow

Andrew Shadow

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There is no such difficulty using this tool.
I have used these types and have found that they can chew in to the filter and subsequently slip if the filter is sufficiently overtightened. Besides the advantage of fitting any size filter the above mentioned strap type, due to the large purchase it has on the filter, may compress a filter somewhat but has never crushed it anywhere near sufficiently to cause enough damage that the filter could not be removed no matter how tight it is. At the end of the day whatever works is what is good. Just bringing another option to the table.
 

Highrider

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Be aware that the tight oil filter problem is mostly related to the type of filter you are using. Filters with a round o-ring cross section, such as the Honda OEM filter, will seat with metal to metal contact when the o-ring compresses and the filter is seated. That is what they are designed to do. Years ago with my ST1100, I switched to a Bosch filter. These have a square o-ring cross section similar to most automotive oil filters that will not allow the metal face of the filter to touch the face on the engine block. After 10 years and about 100,000 miles on both bikes, I have always had an easy time removing the oil filters with that style of filter seal.
 

dduelin

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I have used these types and have found that they can chew in to the filter and subsequently slip if the filter is sufficiently overtightened. Besides the advantage of fitting any size filter the above mentioned strap type, due to the large purchase it has on the filter, may compress a filter somewhat but has never crushed it anywhere near sufficiently to cause enough damage that the filter could not be removed no matter how tight it is. At the end of the day whatever works is what is good. Just bringing another option to the table.
I was just pointing out there is just such a tool out there that you said was not out there. Since I am the one doing the tightening there is no danger of overtightening. But what do I know, I have only changed my ST's oil about 23 times.
 
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Andrew Shadow

Andrew Shadow

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Hi Dave:
Mis-communication. In my original post I did not intend to infer that there was no tool available for the ST1300 filter removal. I was referring to the often mentioned difficulties people express when trying to use the generic types of filter wrenches which were generally designed for automotive applications. I should have expressed that more clearly I guess. I have used the type that you have referred to. My response was illustrating that I use another option that I have found to be more flexible in that it can be used on a greater variety of filter sizes and types as well as a wider variety of vehicles. Like yourself, I have no problem with overtightened filters. Once the first oil change has been done all oil filters on all my vehicles can usually be removed by hand. Just throwing it out in case it can help anyone else out.
 

SupraSabre

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I use the K&N oil filter with the 17mm nut welded on the end. Never have issues getting a filter off! :)
 

Igofar

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I use the K&N oil filter with the 17mm nut welded on the end. Never have issues getting a filter off! :)
If you ever cut one open and look at the filter surface and quality control issues inside, you'll stop using them ;)
Bosch 3300 or Mobil 1 M1-110 are much better filters, and probably cheaper to purchase too. .02
 

SupraSabre

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If you ever cut one open and look at the filter surface and quality control issues inside, you'll stop using them ;)
Bosch 3300 or Mobil 1 M1-110 are much better filters, and probably cheaper to purchase too. .02
I have been using them for about 130K miles with no issues...
 

Zonker

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Being a tool using monkey, I took a spare 7/16 deep-well socket, a side grinder with a thin cutting wheel, and a foot off the end of a ratchet strap. It ain't pretty but it pulled off a seized Yamaha round O ring filter with only a 7/16" impression in the side.


20140903_165044.jpg
 

ST Gui

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I switched to a Bosch filter. These have a square o-ring cross section similar to most automotive oil filters that will not allow the metal face of the filter to touch the face on the engine block. After 10 years and about 100,000 miles on both bikes, I have always had an easy time removing the oil filters with that style of filter seal.
That's good to know. Igofar switched my filter to the 3300 after showing me what it looks like on the inside compared to the OEM.
 
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I use one similar to the one Firstpeke uses, except mine isn't chrome plated and doesn't require a socket on the end of the ratchet extension. The wrench has a 3/8" square hole in the center that a 3/8 drive extension plugs directly into. I bought it at Autozone years ago and never had any problem using it to remove the filter. I always tap it onto the end of the filter to be sure it gets a good grip, and often have to tap it off the filter after I get it out. These things come in several sizes so if you buy one, be sure to get one that fits your filter.
 

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I use one similar to the one Firstpeke uses, except mine isn't chrome plated and doesn't require a socket on the end of the ratchet extension. The wrench has a 3/8" square hole in the center that a 3/8 drive extension plugs directly into. I bought it at Autozone years ago and never had any problem using it to remove the filter. I always tap it onto the end of the filter to be sure it gets a good grip, and often have to tap it off the filter after I get it out. These things come in several sizes so if you buy one, be sure to get one that fits your filter.
If you look closely, the Honda wrench Firstpeke and I use has a 3/8" attachment at the end as well as a hex bolt attachment.
 
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I looked closely and didn't see a square hole for a 3/8" drive, only a nut welded onto the wrench.
 
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I looked closely and didn't see a square hole for a 3/8" drive, only a nut welded onto the wrench.
Yeh, photo must be of a previous version as I got that tool from DSS for both my NT and ST, and definately has a 3/8" drive in the centre; used it just last weekend on ST oil change.

Cheers
 
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