I recently had a problem with my cruise control when it stopped working. I set out on a search to find ways of troubleshooting the problem. I did find the information but it was spread out over many articles and posts, both here and on other sites. I'll bet I spent 2 hours on the internet browsing for different answers. My intent here is to combine all that I found and have it available in one post. Many thanks to the other websites for hosting the articles.
I have always been one to go big when troubleshooting. It's never something simple in my mind. I'll concoct the most crazy possibilities when in fact it is something very simple. I installed my cruise using the instructions from Ray here on this site. It took me two days to do it but I got it done. I did not use a canister nor did I install a one-way check valve on installation. It worked and I was satisfied. Satisfied until I found that the cruise would allow a huge variation in speed such as pulling a slight hill. I determined that moving to the medium sensitivity setting was in order. That helped a whole lot.
On my recent trip out west, pulling my Bushtec, I was once again looking for improvements to be made. I had something funny going on but couldn't recreate it with any consistency. Sometimes the cruise would kick-off from using the turn signals. I blamed the relays being used for the trailer but I'll admit I know absolutely nothing about electronics. The other problem was not being able to hold speed on a hill and sometimes it wouldn't engage at all. By the time I made it to the NatSTOC event it had quit working altogether. I had the plastic off at the event and tried diagnosing the problem there but was unprepared. I rode it home without the use of cruise. Amazing what a wuss the cruise can turn you into!
Once at home I started the tear down to do other maintenance items. I looked on this site for answers. I found something about a blinking LED and that the LED was red. The whole time I'm thinking they were talking about the green LED in the center of the control switch. That threw me for a loop until I realized there is another LED inside the servo unit meant for troubleshooting. Again, I went on a quest to find answers. All of this input was overloading my brain. Going through the checklist and watching the red LED I knew I had a problem with the purple wire that disengages the cruise when you hit the brakes. Sometimes the red LED would come on when I pressed the brake and sometimes it wouldn't. One article states that this purple wire connection is most often the culprit. A relay is needed make sure you get ground and 12volts as needed. Once again I was thinking the relays for my trailer lights were a problem. Then I found the information about checking what wire has voltage during what event like hitting the SET/DECEL switch.
After 3 days of messing with this confounded thing I finally found the problem. The quartet harness I used to make some connections for the cruise had a broken red/green wire. This break was about 9 inches up and smack dab in the middle of the hidden wires. It was just by chance that I pulled on that wire and it came loose in my hand. I could tell by the tarnished color of the copper end it had been (partially) broken for quite a while. Once I had 12 volts going to the servo it all worked again like it used to. I did not install a relay as I see no residual voltage on the green/yellow brake wire that couples to the purple wire.
A good mechanic would have followed through with some methodical steps and had it fixed in a few minutes. Not me, I was ready to buy a new bike and set this one on fire. Anyway, I have pasted below what info I compiled. No pictures but a lot of reading that might be helpful if you ever have a problem with your CCS-100.
Just a quick run-through of quick electrical checks:
Red wire to the servo MUST have 12 volts.
Purple wire to servo. 12 volts with brakes on, 0 volts with brakes off. Any voltage on this wire will prevent engagement of the cruise.
Black wire to servo must be grounded. No ground, no workie.
Blue wire to servo. Must be connected to ignition coil to get tach signal. Can't check with voltmeter. I think you can see something about this with the LED in the servo, but I don't remember how to check. Somebody step up, please. You can read AC volts on this wire, and the LED in the servo housing flashes according to this signal, i.e. faster with higher engine speed.
Brown wire in control pad harness. 12 volts with the pad on button pressed, remains 12 after releasing the on button. Goes to 0 with the off button pressed.
Green wire in control pad harness. 12 volts when set/coast is pressed.
Yellow wire in control pad harness. 12 volts when resume/accel is pressed.
The cruise monitors engine RPM through the blue wire connected to your tachometer or coil wire. Without a tachometer signal the cruise won’t work. The Cruise servo cable uses engine vacuum to move your throttle. Without engine vacuum the cruise won’t work. The purple or brake light wire allows the cruise to turn on and shuts the cruise off when you apply the brakes. If the purple brake wire is not connected correctly the cruise either won’t turn on or won’t shut off. You can always shut the cruise off by turning the cruise off at the control keypad. To summarize, you need a tachometer signal to the blue wire, engine vacuum connected to the servo, and the purple brake wire connected correctly for the cruise to work. If you don’t have all three, the cruise won’t work.
SW1 SW2 SW3 SW4 SW5 SW6 SW7
ON OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF ON
Brake Wire Connection:
The purple wire from the cruise control servo must be connected to the positive side of your brake switch. Normally the rear brake switch has the easiest access. Connect the purple cruise control wire to the side of the brake switch that usually has 0 Volts DC but +12 Volts DC when you step on the brakes. You can also connect the purple cruise control wire to your taillight brake wire but you’ll also need a SPDT relay in the circuit. If you have LED taillights or have even added accessory LED brake lights you need to use a relay. The purple cruise control wire can’t sense ground through an LED. Without being connected to Chassis Ground through the purple cruise control wire, the cruise won’t turn on. Not all SPDT relays are the same. Some SPDT relays for automotive lighting applications don’t have the correct internal configuration.
Original install instructions here:
You can buy Murph’s relay which has the correct configuration here:
How to hook up the brake SPDT relay is here:
Note: The motorcycle taillight brake wire color of Blue with a Red Stripe before the connector and solid Blue after the connector is for a Kawasaki C14 only. Your taillight brake wire color will be different. It is CRITICAL that you verify that you have a good connection between the SPDT relay and the motorcycle brake light wire. This is the connection that shuts the cruise off when you press on either brake. After you have made all the connections verify proper operation by turning the ignition on with the engine off, press on the brake and you should hear Murphs’ accessory relay click. If you don’t hear a click, the relay is not working and the cruise might not shut off. Find the problem and fix it before you ride your bike. Also note that the motorcycle brake light must be working for the cruise to the cruise to work correctly.
After you have everything hooked up, verify proper operation of the Servo by removing the plate on the Servo housing where the wiring harness is installed. With the engine off and the ignition on. Turn on the cruise at the Cruise Control Keypad. Look into the servo housing where the wiring harness is installed.
The Red LED should blink once as the Set and Resume buttons are pressed.
Start the bike and leave it in neutral: Turn on the cruise and look into the servo housing where the wiring harness is installed. The Red LED should be blinking. Increase the engine RPM’s and the LED should flash faster. This confirms that you have a good tach signal.
With the bike off but the cruise on: When you press on either brake the Red LED should be continuously lit. The Red Led should go out when you release the brakes.
The Purple Servo wire must be connected to chassis ground for the
Cruise to turn on. The Purple Servo wire must also have +12 VDC
applied to it to shut the cruise off. That’s why you need the relay.
If you pass these tests you’re ready for your test ride.
If the cruise does not work at 40 MPH, try 60 MPH. If it works now your PPM setting is too high. Try the next lower PPM setting.
If you don’t have a faster flashing LED, then you don’t have a good tach signal or the DIP switches in the Servo are set wrong. Check for a good connection at your Tachometer source. It’s fairly easy to not have a good connection when using the Scotch lock connectors. The Scotch lock connector needs to fit all the way over the wire you are connecting to and the other wire needs to be fully in the top side of the Scotch lock connector. Pull on the wires…If they come loose you found your problem. Did you pull the Black jumper to the left of the Dip switches inside the servo?
Brake Wire Connection Test: The brake wire connection seems to be a common problem area. When you press on either brake the Red LED inside the servo should be continuously lit. The Red Led should go out when you release the brakes. Check your purple brake wire connection using a digital Volt Ohm Meter (VOM). Don’t use a test light, it could damage your vehicle’s ECM. The Purple Servo wire must be connected to chassis ground (O Volts DC) for the cruise to turn on. The Purple Servo wire must also have +12 Volts DC applied to it to shut the cruise off.
If the Red LED inside the servo is continuously lit when you to turn the vehicle key on, try removing the purple wire from the circuit. If the Red LED inside the servo shuts off, either the brake lights are stuck on and you need to readjust the brake switch or you need to use a SPDT relay in the brake circuit. If you already have a SPDT relay in the brake circuit, either you have the wrong relay or you have it connected wrong.
By far the most common reason an installed CCS -100 unit will not engage is because the unit senses the rear brake is being applied. If you are using LED tail lights, you must use the relay circuit mentioned in this attachment.
If the cruise does not "set" when the purple wire is connected to the ground side of the brake light switch circuit, then there is a residual voltage on that line and the cruise servo will not function. Then it will be necessary to use a relay to ground the purple wire separately but supply +12 volts when the brake is applied. See the relay schematic also listed on the cruise control web page.
For a test, you can temporarily ground the purple wire to check out the operation of the cruise control. If the “set” functions properly with the purple wire grounded (be careful since it will NOT automatically disengage when the brakes are applied. With the purple wire grounded, the cruise control will only shut off by turning OFF the ON / OFF button of the control switch. The cruise control is strong enough to outpower your brakes), then you need to add a SPDT relay to the brake light circuit.
Not all SPDT relays are configured the same. Save yourself trouble and aggravation by using ours.
The following applies to a Kawasaki Concours 14, and the description of the bike parts are specific to that model. It has relevance to other bikes as well, just be sure to access the wires appropriate for your machine.
Brake Wire Connection:
The purple wire from the servo shuts the servo off when the brakes are applied. This is a very critical step. Without this signal, the CCS-100 will continue to operate until you shut it off at the control pad or you crash into something.
Because we have LED brake lights we need to use a SPDT relay in the brake light circuit. Find a suitable location for the SPDT relay under the seat. Take the tools out of the tool Kit and remove the Tool Kit Box. Carefully move the ECM forward so you can access the taillight wires behind it. The tail light wires are in the black boot behind the ECM. The taillight brake wire you are looking for is Blue with a Red Stripe before the connector and solid Blue after the connector. Using Murphs’ accessory relay, make the connections according to the diagram below.
Compliments of Blayde Kennedy.
The fuse that supplies voltage to the red/green wire 12v. constant in the wire harness and to the quartet harness is fuse J 10 amp.