Don't Fear Changing the ST1100 Thermostat!

Gymbo

R.I.P. - 2021/08/30
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I had a ST that would run hot in warm weather and overheat at altitude. It turned out to be the radiator cap. I replaced it with a Stant 10233 16psi cap and that solved the problem.

Possibly the Stant has a higher opening temp than the OEM? They aren't all the same.
The Stant is supposed to be a 180? thermostat, same as OEM. I suppose the only way to know would be to take the thermostat out heat some water to see what temp it opens at.
 
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Joined
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Las Vegas, , Nevada
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94' 1100 ABS
Just for information. The Stant 13868 has a smaller opening than OE, it is a 180 degree stat I just put one in and it's not sufficient for 115f heat...Yes, I put it in the correct way..Rod
 
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Maybe the more restricted flow rate has something to do with your higher operating temperature then, as I wouldn't think the ambient temp of 115F. in itself, would cause an overheating problem.
 
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Question: My new Stant t-stat is working, but it seems too hot. It stays on the first part of the M in TEMP. Fluids are good with no leaks. Fan is not always on, but starts as I come to a stop. It was 110 today in Vegas, but my other ST 1100 runs cooler in the same temperature. Any input, Thanks Ladies and Gents.......Rod
From your report, IMO, it's actually working as it should;). Out on the 'slab', from G.Junction into Utah, with temps 103-107, gauge on mine is not far from that. But, thermostat holds it CONSTANT IN RELATIONSHIP to outside temps. Having said that, it will ALWAYS vary according to ouside temps, but should hold whatever that is fairly constant while rollling down the road. Thermostat opening distance controls flow RATE thru radiator for either more heat transfer or less, based on coolant temp at thermostat location. Automotive systems, being a bit larger capacity, you don't see that variation associated with outside temps except in extremes both directions.
Also by what you said, the fan is coming on. Guessing that would mean somewhere around the halfway mark, give or take?
 
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I dont think I mentioned it, but I also changed the rad. cap as well with A Stant aftermarket. Took the bike for a ride tonight, still getting what seems too hot, (now 90's) I'm going to put the old OE rad cap back on. It's the only thing left I can do, my last option. Previous poster said something about bad cap, I hope this will be the solution, Thanks.....Rod
 
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Just for information. The Stant 13868 has a smaller opening than OE, it is a 180 degree stat I just put one in and it's not sufficient for 115f heat...Yes, I put it in the correct way..Rod
Is that the stat that's in there now?

Maybe the more restricted flow rate has something to do with your higher operating temperature then, as I wouldn't think the ambient temp of 115F. in itself, would cause an overheating problem.
That seems to match my experience, I haven't ridden in triple digit temps lately, but when I did I don't recall the temp gauge being any different and I've ridden in 118F temps before.

I dont think I mentioned it, but I also changed the rad. cap as well with A Stant aftermarket. Took the bike for a ride tonight, still getting what seems too hot, (now 90's) I'm going to put the old OE rad cap back on. It's the only thing left I can do, my last option. Previous poster said something about bad cap, I hope this will be the solution, Thanks.....Rod
confused about the last option comment. Couldn't you replace the stat with one that is the correct temp rating and flow rating since your previous comment suggests you have a sub-optimum replacement stat in there now.
 
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94' 1100 ABS
I kept the Stant stat with an extra hole drilled in.
Temp,stayed between the E and the M today, 110f.
The Stant replacement is 180 degree, same as OE. The opening is is smaller than OE, I have not seen a aftermarket that is the same as an OE.
 

Gymbo

R.I.P. - 2021/08/30
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I kept the Stant stat with an extra hole drilled in.
Temp,stayed between the E and the M today, 110f.
The Stant replacement is 180 degree, same as OE. The opening is is smaller than OE, I have not seen a aftermarket that is the same as an OE.
Hmmmmm....I had the SuperStat version of the Stant 180? thermostat and a Stant radiator cap and rode in 100? weather without overheating...mind you, it was 101?, not 110-115? so maybe that's the difference. In stop and go traffic the temp gauge read warmer than usual...like at the M in TEMP like yours, but once moving it settled right back down to normal.
 
Joined
Dec 10, 2015
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Oakley, East Anglia, England, UK
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ST1100 1996 ABS
Hi guys
Hope you're all still there. I notice you are all from hotter climes than us in Blighty but we are similar in that I have a similar problem. I purchased a 96 ST110 very recently as an MOT failure and so decided to service from scratch and having done so noticed she hardly got off the low end of the temp gauge. Thinking the thermostat was stuck open I opened her up and found no thermostat at all.
On reading this the Stand 13868 180 degrees seems a good deal as here I can get one for a couple of quid as opposed to going to my dealer (they don't even have the courtesy to wear a mask when robbing you!)
My question is this; will this replacement thermostat get my bike to the correct running temperature in weather such as we have here?
Cheers
 
Joined
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will this replacement thermostat get my bike to the correct running temperature in weather such as we have here?
AFAIK there was only one OEM t-stat for the ST1100, regardless of where you lived. Put the 180F replacement in and ride it. What you'll see is that the temp gauge needle will stay pretty low while you're moving, that's normal.
 
OP
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The Stant will open at its rated temperature whether it's in Miami or Antarctica. (Just going to open a lot faster in Miami). I've ridden my ST in the low teens (F?) to well over 100? air temps and it works great. It should serve you well.
 
Joined
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West Michigan
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'98 ST1100
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Glad I could help! You'll find your STeed will get better gas mileage and run a lot smoother now that it isn't freezing all the time!
I'm thinking of installing a 190 degree thermostat. IMHO , the ST1100 runs too cold. The temp meter hardly ever gets off the bottom of normal range. I would like to see it a little higher. That should cause it to get better gas mileage and be running at a better temp as far as lubricity is concerned. 230 degrees ( F ) is the best temp. as far as lubricity is concerned.
 
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2021 RE Meteor 350
I'm thinking of installing a 190 degree thermostat. IMHO , the ST1100 runs too cold. The temp meter hardly ever gets off the bottom of normal range. I would like to see it a little higher. That should cause it to get better gas mileage and be running at a better temp as far as lubricity is concerned. 230 degrees ( F ) is the best temp. as far as lubricity is concerned.
The temperature of your oil will be far higher than the temperature of your coolant, so there is NO problem with "lubricity". A higher than engineered temp spec for the coolant though may lead to a higher than desired oil temperature. This is one for the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" book.
 
Joined
Dec 10, 2015
Messages
36
Location
Oakley, East Anglia, England, UK
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ST1100 1996 ABS
Hi guys
Installed the Stant and seems to work a treat in getting her up to temp quickly. The fan kicked in when the temperature gauge rose to about 3/4 so was happy with that. Coincidentally I turned on the headlight and the temperature gauge instantly shot into the red!
Anyone heard of that before?
Cheers
 

RobbieAG

Robert
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Apr 4, 2014
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Greensboro NC
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On this side of the pond, our lights are on all the time. It sounds like a wiring issue. I'd check all the connections - clean them and put on some dielectric grease. It could be a short or a bad ground.
 
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What is the reasoning that higher radiator coolant temps equal better fuel mileage? There is a manual choke on the 1100 and I turn mine completely off as soon as the bike will run without it. Maybe 1 to 2 tenths of a mile. I'd rather run cooler temps under the plastic to make rubber hoses and such last longer. Heat is the enemy. If you leave the choke on too long, sure you'll waste fuel, but don't expect you need that choke to warm the coolant faster. A leaner mixture will warm an engine quicker than a rich one. As soon as the engine responds to the throttle without stumbling or quitting at idle, no more choke is needed.
 
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