Interesting, Carl, never seen it done that way before.
The following is "generic" for about any simple hydraulic brake system. ABS requires more finesse to not introduce air.
Muttly, I've frequently used the ol' fashion "depress-open-close-pump" method. The non-ABS 11s have three brake fluid circuits and four bleed valves:
Clutch (and clutch lever master cylinder.) Under the lower cowl, front, is the bleed for the clutch:
Remove the cap from MC reservoir, suck out all the dirty fluid and clean out the crud (old turkey baster works well.)
Pour in DOT 4 (or Dot 5.3) brake fluid. I prefer Castrol synthetic. (While proceeding, keep check the reservoir never gets empty.)
Pull the lever and hold;
Open the bleed valve (small hose over the end into an emtpy container);
Close the bleed valve;
Pump up the clutch 'til firm and hold;
Repeat 'til clean fluid comes out the slave/bleed valve.
Done.
On the brakes, repeat the procedure for each master cylinder and each brake caliper (only one bleed valve per caliper.
I prefer to start with the rear brake (simplest). That lets you get a "feel" for the process. If ya have a firm pedal when done, good. If ya don't, it's easier to bleed the back brake as it's a direct master cylinder to slave cylinder system, no complications.
For the front, as in auto practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder (in our case the left front.)
When you have clean fluid coming out the bleed valve(s), yur done. Check to see you have good pressure. You will have unless you allowed air into the system from top or bottom.
To reiterate:
Squeeze
Open
Close
Pump and hold
Repeat
Don't let the master reservoir get empty.
A shop manual for your bike is a good idea.
Don't try this on an ABS it's needs much more care to get it DONE correctly.
Hope this helps.
[video=youtube;SKm5xQyD2vE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKm5xQyD2vE[/video]