Joined the "Stripped Oil Drain Plug" group today.

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I'd be concerned about protection from corrosion and road grid... especially on the Britt isles though
Good job I'm in Ireland so Martin:) It looks a handy idea,I think I might have overtightened the bolt,we'll see next time,changed the oil in the Vfr this evening,I was very careful not to use too much force;)
That plug would be very handy if you needed to take an oil sample or if you had overfilled the crankcase.
 
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Thats a handy looking item Brendan and as you say should be safe to use with forward facing drainer.You can have one ready for your next oil change
Yeah it looks handy alright Pat,have to say working on the Vfr is so easy,getting her up and down from the lift etc.single sided swingarm is great,took the back wheel off and cleaned it,also cleaned the chain.sprockets and swingarm etc,first time I gave her a cleaning since I bought her a year ago.
 
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Yeah it looks handy alright Pat,have to say working on the Vfr is so easy,getting her up and down from the lift etc.single sided swingarm is great,took the back wheel off and cleaned it,also cleaned the chain.sprockets and swingarm etc,first time I gave her a cleaning since I bought her a year ago.[/QUOT

I was thinking the same if you overfilled it.I,ll have to get a lift,so much easier to work with especially when you get on a bit in years and the ole back is not as good as it used to be,no bother getting down,it,s getting back up thats the problem
 
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ll have to get a lift,so much easier to work with
Definitely is Pat,I only have a lend of this one but I couldn't do without one now,a mechanic mate was telling me that maybe what I felt when tightening the sump bolt was the new crush washer giving under the pressure,hope he's right,he also said he usually uses a gasket sealent on all sump bolts just to be on the safe side.
 
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Nice to know !!

I have also in the past seen some replacement drain plugs made of rubber. They have a hole in the center ( doesn't go all the way through, of course ) that a small rod is inserted in to stretch the plug ( and thereby making the diameter smaller ) so it can be inserted & removed.
 

BudC

'91 ST STOC# 422
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It's a Dorman 65213, and you can find it locally in any good auto parts store. Works well.

Take your time. Use non-moly, non-lithium bearing grease on the end (you don't want those materials in with the oil that's bathing your clutch) to capture the chips. It should start into the existing threads about a turn. Run it in a couple of threads, back it out, clean off the grease and chips (brake spray works well), more grease, a couple more threads, etc, etc. When it seats (without any washer, torque it up to 18 #-ft., take it out and clean the hell out of the threads - q-tips, alcohol, etc.

Put the washer that comes with it on, tighten it down to 18 again. Put some cheap oil and a good filter in, run a couple of hundred miles and drain and change the filter. Re-use, but reverse, the nylon washer and tighten down the bolt to 18 - that's all the torque you'll ever need to do with this, as long as you use the Dorman ribbed nylon washers -use 'em once, reverse for the the next change, and use a new one after that. From now on, you should be extra careful when putting this bolt back in. If it doesn't go in 3 or 4 turns easily using just your fingers, back it out and try again. It's DESIGNED to be a thread cutter, so it'll cross-thread very easily.

Fill with your regular oil and filter , and GO RIDE.

Don't ask me how I know all this.
 
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What's the easiest/best option for an over tightened potentially stripped drain plug? not leaking but next oil change will tell the tale,

anyone ever considered one of these http://www.fumotousa.com/
I've used one of these on several of my cars going back maybe 25 years. They have worked perfectly, no problems at all, and it is a dream to drain the oil. I never thought of one for the ST. I'll have to get down there to see how it looks - and how far the valve will protrude below the bike.
 

BakerBoy

It's all small stuff.
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I suspect the right angle part of those Fumoto oil drain valves will interfere with the oil pan fins while trying to thread it in place. But even if it did fit, I'd not install one on mine as I don't want the lowest hanging part to be the oil plug. A tire carcass, piece of wood, rock, or other object kicked up by the front tire would easily knock it off while riding.
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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That's why the nipple-less or short-nipple version would be a better choice. They're probably not much more vulnerable than the factory drain plug if at all.
 
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Saw 3 used ST1300 oi pans on eBay yesterday. I bought one a couple years ago as a spare, but thankfully have not needed it ... yet.
 

ST1100Y

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I'd not install one on mine as I don't want the lowest hanging part to be the oil plug. A tire carcass, piece of wood, rock, or other object kicked up by the front tire would easily knock it off while riding.
+1 to that...

The use of a properly set torque wrench on the OEM bolt seems more reliable... (I've not the slightest idea how some manage to strip that sucker...)
 

BudC

'91 ST STOC# 422
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White Mountains, AZ
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+1 to that...

The use of a properly set torque wrench on the OEM bolt seems more reliable... (I've not the slightest idea how some manage to strip that sucker...)
I don't believe that I stripped the damned thing, but my memory is not as reliable as it used to be. I had it into a shop for some other work, and they changed the oil while they were into it. It wasn't leaking when I got it back. On the first oil change after that, I finger threaded it in and started with the torque wrench, and it never made it even to 23 #-ft before spinning. If I had noticed the aluminum stuck in the threads when I'd pulled it, I would have taken it back, but this was 3 months (over winter) and after I'd already run it in, so I just sucked it up and fixed it.

That said, I was never comfortable at 27 #-ft that is the spec. 4 or 5 years ago, I started only torquing it down to 23. At 27 it felt like a torque-to-stretch head bolt. That's the best way I can describe the feel. 23 always held fine.
 
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That said, I was never comfortable at 27 #-ft that is the spec. 4 or 5 years ago, I started only torquing it down to 23. At 27 it felt like a torque-to-stretch head bolt. That's the best way I can describe the feel. 23 always held fine.
I've never used a torque wrench on an oil drain plug, ever. I just tighten it until I feel the resistance from the bolt and washer hitting the oil pan and stop. Its nowhere near 27 ft*lb that's for sure, if I had to guess I'd say its half of that. Never drips any oil, never is loose at next oil change.
 
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Well I drained the oil this evening,didn't see any damage or aluminium on the drain plug,so hoping what I felt last time was just the new crush washer bedding in,I'll have the new oil and filter tomorrow so I'll be careful tightening up the drain bolt this time,might add a bit of gasket paste around the bolt head just to be sure. I wasn't looking forward to replacing the sump so hope all will be ok.

Thankfully what I felt that time was just the new crush washer bedding in,a lucky escape though.
 
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