ST1300 /02 / 60k - ABS dash light never comes on - fuse and LED are ok

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Oct 13, 2012
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ABS dash light never comes on - fuse and LED are ok. Brakes are good but ABS does not appear to work. Fuse ok, - any ideas?

With thanks,

Charlie
 

Byron

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When you first turn the key on aren't all the dash light supposed to come on? If this is the case and the ABS light doesn't then I say bad LED.
 
OP
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The saga continues. Stripped down dash to find some 'nice person' had very carefully put lots of black tape over the LED lens. So after re-assembly followed Haynes manual - Code 5 (first and second fault). Reset and went for a 50 mile ride (with my son on his first bike) - well it was sunny! ABS warning light stays on all the time (does not flash apart from code testing). Still reads code 5 as above. Fuses Ok. Manual suggests possible fault in: Rear Modulator; Crank Angle Sensor (where is this / what does it do); wiring. From (your) experience what are the likely causes / cheapest way to start testing. Are Modulators expensive? Any help appreciated. Thanks - Charlie:04biker:
 

Byron

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Check the rear sensor and see if it is clean and within spec for distance from the ring. It's possible that during a tire change the sensor got banged and may have moved it too far from the sensor ring.
 
OP
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Thanks, have checked it - 0.7 to 1.2mm according to Haynes. It's clean and gap is 0.7mm.
 

Blrfl

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... Code 5 ... Rear Modulator; Crank Angle Sensor (where is this ...
This will be part of the rear ABS modulator, which is stuffed into the back of the bike on the right side, within spitting distance of the rear wheel speed sensor. If you've seen the front one (bolted to the frame on the right side), it's identical.

... what does it do) ...
The motor in the modulator has a crank on it that pumps the pistons that modulate the brakes. The crank angle sensor tells the ABS computer where in the stroke the pistons are.

I note that you're from the UK, which means you have a better-than-average chance of this problem having been caused by your country's unique brand of road crud gumming up the electrical connections. I'd suggest that you pull the sensor connectors, give them a good cleaning, repack them with dielectric grease and see if the problem goes away.

If the problem isn't electrical, it's inside the modulator, which is only available as a whole unit.

--Mark
 
OP
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Hello again - I presume the connectors are those on R/H/S to left of cylinder head. Anyway I've taken the Tupperware off both sides and have done all the connectors I could see. Was wondering if rear sender has another (hidden) connector in between? (I'm unable to start and road test as doing other job while fairing off).
 
OP
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Hello all - have checked and cleaned all connectors (and bled the PV valve). I was really excited:07biker: (as only a fettler can be) when starting off the test ride the ABS changed from 'on all the time' to 'flashing'. As the large side Tupperwares were still off I took it only on a side street to 15mph - continued to flash (****):(. Checked the fault codes (which I cleared from last time - which were 2 x 5) now it is 1 x5. So unless you more experienced guys have anything else I can try it looks like a replacement rear modulator. Risk with 2nd hand if you don't know the bike it came off, but the cost of a new one is silly - any way of checking them? I am happy to ride without ABS. Up to last year you could blank the ABS light off - as someone did to this one - (on other bikes remove the bulb) and a bike would still pass the UK MOT. Changes in MOT law this year state ABS warning light must work. Testers in the UK do not ride the bike - so unlike a car - how can they check that it goes off? Or is it sufficient for them to see it is on!? As always - any advice welcome. :confused:
 

SupraSabre

48 Years of SoCal Lane Splitting/Commuting-Retired
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One thought of getting around the light problem would be to purchase a Non-ABS panel cover, tape over the ABS light (like before) and know one would know.... just a thought...

SpeedoMeterDiagram-2005.jpg

If that isn't good enough, purchse the non-ABS light panel too. :D

Intruments are the same for either...
 
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I suspect that your motor in the module is stuck. You can power it directly to see if it runs, I checked mine this way, push the rear brake and intermittently power the module, you should get an ABS like action. You can also check the sensor, but a scope works best for this. Check the short harness to the rear module, it is tucked into the space very tightly, there could be a break in the wiring that only opens up when the harness is twisted. Ohmmeter on each end and twist and bend might show this up. Other wise swap the modules and see if it codes on the front, not really that hard to do.
Brian
Canoe BC
 

SupraSabre

48 Years of SoCal Lane Splitting/Commuting-Retired
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My 2010 ABS light stays on all the time. The bike is still under warranty and Honda said that they would be more than happy to fix it, but I would have to "fund" the fix first (they were going for a new control module) of about $1,000, then if they found an reason that maybe the crash broke it, too bad, I would be left holding the bag!

I have a non-abs panel, I just might put that on if that light gets to the pint of irritating me too much..:D
 

SupraSabre

48 Years of SoCal Lane Splitting/Commuting-Retired
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It's an attractive option, I don't miss the abs anyway,I don't have it on the vfr which I tend to ride quicker and the linked brakes on it are fantastic.
My concern is spending money on the abs now only to find in a few months some other issue with it.
I don't like abs on my jeep,I'd much prefer a good sharp brake rather than the pedal juddering and you don't feel like the thing is ever gona stop.
I feel the same way, I guess we are both "old school" on them ;)
 
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